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What did you hone today? -Knife and tool edition

Arkansas Stones are all slow, being a time severed Carpenter Joiner all my life now aged 64, you can only imagine how many chisels and planes I have sharpened, my love for natural stones is zero, when I started honing chisels almost 50 years ago, an Indian oil stone was a given most of us used them, given the choice of synthetics we have today I would throw that Indian stone in the bin. PS I also hone razors professionally.
 

Legion

Staff member
Arkansas Stones are all slow, being a time severed Carpenter Joiner all my life now aged 64, you can only imagine how many chisels and planes I have sharpened, my love for natural stones is zero, when I started honing chisels almost 50 years ago, an Indian oil stone was a given most of us used them, given the choice of synthetics we have today I would throw that Indian stone in the bin. PS I also hone razors professionally.
OK, fair enough. That leaves more natural stones for me then. :lol:
 
Tuned up my my brisket knife today. Shapton 500 to a Chosera 1K then stropped. Not sure if I ever put this one to the stones.
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My razor honing has taught me a bit about sharpening in general. I've realized that you get good edges come from good bevel setting not so much from messing around for ages on finishing stones. With that in mind I reset the bevels on my cheap stainless steel kitchen knife. I want to see if it can hold its own with my new blue 2 Japanese Gyuto.

I honed away until I raised a full length burr on one side. I then did a full length burr on the opposite side. I repeated this a couple of times. I then lightened the pressure and started alternating sides every stroke. I got a very good edge off the 1200 King. Not smoking hot like the factory edge on the new Gyuto but very good indeed. Honing at the sink is a game changer with the water stones. The knife could possibly die with a heel correction.

I find the synthetic stones to be more effective on the stainless steel. Maybe it's just that the larger size of my synths is easier to work on. I may try to refine the edge further on a higher grit stone. I may also try I high grit micro bevel. So far this is working pretty well though. The knife cuts paper easily but still no joy on the paper towel.
 

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My razor honing has taught me a bit about sharpening in general. I've realized that you get good edges come from good bevel setting not so much from messing around for ages on finishing stones. With that in mind I reset the bevels on my cheap stainless steel kitchen knife. I want to see if it can hold its own with my new blue 2 Japanese Gyuto.

I honed away until I raised a full length burr on one side. I then did a full length burr on the opposite side. I repeated this a couple of times. I then lightened the pressure and started alternating sides every stroke. I got a very good edge off the 1200 King. Not smoking hot like the factory edge on the new Gyuto but very good indeed. Honing at the sink is a game changer with the water stones. The knife could possibly die with a heel correction.

I find the synthetic stones to be more effective on the stainless steel. Maybe it's just that the larger size of my synths is easier to work on. I may try to refine the edge further on a higher grit stone. I may also try I high grit micro bevel. So far this is working pretty well though. The knife cuts paper easily but still no joy on the paper towel.
To me there are two keys.
1) Setting the bevel properly
2) Maintaining a stable bevel angle in the subsequent work. On long blades I still tend to get better results from an EdgePro Apex than freehanding on a stone.
 
So I unpacked two petty knives today. One is a Nigara SG2, a rather pretty and ornate 95mm petty. I started cutting vegetables for dinner and quickly realized that the Nigara appeared to have no final edge on it, so I pulled out my EdgePro Apex, since I wanted to make sure that at least the initial bevel set was consistent. First time working with SG2 so I set the initial bevel angle at a very aggressive 20 degrees, right on the edge of straight razor territory. I can always add a micro bevel later.

I initially started with a 220 then went to a 320 (these are the EdgePro numbers which per Zknives corresponds to 700 and 2000 grits on Japanese water stones). Then I used a Dan’s Soft Ark (which may or may not be finer than the EdgePro 320). Then some stropping with film and a rather thrashed piece of leather.

There are many different tomato tests for testing the sharpness of a blade. I chose the drop test where you drop a cherry tomato from about 6in above an upturned blade. Results shown below.

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Stepped into this world last night - a 2 1/2 hour one on one knife sharpening class with the owner of the local Japanese woodworking, gardening and knife hardware store. Here's the sharpening station in the back of the shop.

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My Dave Martell 2011 group buy carbon Gyuto was sharpened as the demonstration and then I sharpened a Tojiro Gyuto and Nakiri. Went home with two Shapton ceramic stones and an Atoma.
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Picked up a fine India stone today along with a Norton Translucent.

No real need for the India but bought it anyway. Figured I’d take my edc to it. Well I’ll be darn if this isn’t a nice stone. Never really used one much although I have another that’s an 8”.

So anyway, the edge turned out pretty nice.

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Legion

Staff member
Picked up a fine India stone today along with a Norton Translucent.

No real need for the India but bought it anyway. Figured I’d take my edc to it. Well I’ll be darn if this isn’t a nice stone. Never really used one much although I have another that’s an 8”.

So anyway, the edge turned out pretty nice.

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Yeah, Indias work well, and are really underated because they are so common. A certain little English chap has, more than once, suggested that they are the greatest sharpening stone ever.
 
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