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TI strop pastes, "user manual"

I have been corresponding with David Loft from TI about sharpening my Silverwing. I did not get good results using hones only. Eventually I got good results finishing with Cr2O3 paste.

David sent me instructions for use of TI pastes. He stresses he just finished writing the instructions and may want to alter them after getting feed-back.

Here they are:

“Bio-Diamond” Diamond Sharpening-Pastes
and Chromox Finishing Paste

Ref. Bio-Diam 6 --Coarse-Grit 6 micron (Yellow colored)—for: heavy refining of edge direct from the hone; aggressive action or restoring.
Ref. Bio-Diam 3—Regular-Grit 3 micron (Green colored)—for: refining of edge direct from hone, intermediate action or restoring.
Ref. Bio-Diam 1—Fine-Grit 1 micron (Red colored)—for: regular use on razor’s edge.
Ref. Bio-Diam 0.25—Extra-fine-Grit 0.25 micron (Silver colored)—for: regular use and super-fine finishing on razor’s edge.
Ref. Chromox—Finishing-paste—green chromium oxide—recommended for use after diamond-paste stropping with grits finer than 0.50 microns.

Historical Perspective

Like other aspects of straight-razor use, razor-sharpening has benefited from modern processes and materials. The use of today’s Diamond Sharpening-Pastes in your razor-sharpening regimen can vastly improve both the quality of your razor’s cutting edge and the comfort and closeness of the shave.
Razor-sharpening pastes have been around for years. The most common pastes used a fine powder of iron oxide, chromium oxide or graphite as the cutting agent, suspended in a carrier; this was spread onto a leather or wood surface, used as a strop to finish the edge. A bundle of strops would hang in a corner of the barbershop, each dedicated to a different type or coarseness of sharpening-paste. The use of sharpening-pastes is similar to the use of hones: you begin with a coarser grit to accomplish the most work in the shortest time, moving on to progressively finer pastes to refine the edge, ending in a finely polished, mirror-like finish. Advances in metallurgy produced ever-harder steels, rendering ineffective the compounds used as cutting agents in the sharpening-pastes; they were actually softer than the blade they were expected to sharpen. Using such sharpening-paste made the blade duller, not sharper! All this changed with the development of diamond sharpening-pastes.
Diamonds are the hardest substance known to man—far harder than any steel yet developed. Industrial-grade diamonds, similar in hardness to gemstone-quality diamonds, are by-products of the diamond-mining industry. Their flaws, color inconsistencies, or other characteristics render them unsuitable for jewelry. Also, in the process of cutting and polishing gemstones, significant waste is produced. When all this is crushed to a fine powder the resulting particles acquire irregular cutting-edges. Being harder than any other substance, the particles hold those edges longer than any other material. This diamond powder does the actual work of sharpening.
However, all diamond compounds are not equal. The best are very carefully controlled in their manufacture, to assure consistency in the size of the actual particles. For example, a compound classified as “one micron,” though it may have particles smaller, should contain no diamond particles larger, than one micron. This is important, especially in a close-tolerance application such as producing a highly refined razor edge. All the diamond particles used in our “Bio-Diamond” sharpening-pastes are very carefully sorted to make sure that particles in each mix are exactly the given grade size.

Another differentiation between compounds is the carrier paste. In an industrial polishing application, an oil-based carrier, (typically a petrochemical) may be acceptable. In sharpening a straight razor, a water-based paste is preferable. This will easily rinse away after sharpening, lessening the risk of any skin irritation or infection. Our “Bio-Diamond” pastes are water-based, perfect for use in the sharpening of razors; they have no harmful chemical additives and are even “food-safe” if accidentally ingested.
Important : a razor edge can actually be too sharp, the result of over-sharpening with diamond-pastes. Such an edge will catch on every surface imperfection in the skin, causing irritation and razor-burn. For a close yet comfortable shave, the razor’s edge should glide over the skin, barely touching, catching only on the base of the hairs to be cut. Generally, using a diamond compound as fine as, or finer than, 0.5 micron can result in an over-sharpened edge. In most cases, one micron or smaller diamond sharpening-pastes are more than capable of sharpening a razor that has become dull through normal use. By starting with an even coarser grit—in the 6 micron to 1 micron range, depending on how dull the beginning edge is, you can refine the “not quite shave-ready” edge typically found on a new, out-of-the box razor. Before sharpening a new razor, first try shaving with it. If it pulls, drags, or is in any way uncomfortable, sharpening is required. By this test, you learn how much sharpening to do. Generally, 20 round-trips on each side of the diamond-pasted strop will get it right. If, after sharpening and again trying to shave, it needs more work, repeat the process. You may have heard of many different ways to test the sharpness of a razor—the hanging-hair test, the standing-hair test, shaving your forearm, etc.--but the only true test is actually shaving with it.
In most cases, a good paddle-strop or two (examples, our 4-sided paddle strop (ref. 444), or one or more 2-sided paddle strops (examples, ref. 259 or 276) and several different-grit diamond sharpening compounds (we recommend Bio-Diam 1, followed by Bio-Diam 0.25) will be all that are needed to maintain a fleet of daily shavers. What diamond paste will not do alone is establish a basic working edge on a razor that hasn’t seen a strop or hone in fifty years, or remove a ding or chip (the result of dropping the razor, or some other accident.) For such repair, only a hone will do. But, once a hone has done the heavy work, diamond sharpening-pastes (this time, Bio-Diam 6 and 3,followed by Bio-Diam 1 and Bio-Diam 0.25) will refine the basic edge quicker and in much more controlled manner than a hone can.

Use of Bio-Diamond sharpening paste:

The best tool to use with your diamond sharpening-pastes, as we have said, is a paddle-strop . A surface of soft wood (such as balsa) can be chosen, but we prefer leather. In either case, the surface must be sufficiently rough or grainy to hold the paste. With too smooth or hard a surface, the paste will simply be wiped off with each pass of the blade--not only wasteful and expensive, but ineffective. The smoothest leather surface (of your paddle- or hanging strop) should be reserved for either Chromox-paste application or use of an un-pasted strop in a final, pre-shave touch-up. The paste should be applied to the surface in very small amounts: with our Bio-Diamond special push-drop dispenser applicator. .

Dispenser procedure: Shake the dispenser gently to mix its contents. Remove the cap, then press the membrane at the base of the unit to eject drops of the compound. [Initially, you might have to press several times to get the flow moving.]
10-12 drops will usually suffice for a first application. Any random compound emitted at start or end of the emission should be wiped away with the fingertips or a paper towel and deposited on the strop.

For a typical-sized paddle-strop, these 10-12 drops should be evenly spaced along the length of the strop. The dots should be thoroughly worked into the surface, using the fingertips or the heel of the hand. The more time spent on this step, the more effective the sharpening action will be. With successive use, as the surface becomes more built-up with abrasives, the effectiveness of the sharpening action will be improved. So, do not clean off the surface after use. When the effectiveness seems to have diminished, simply add a small amount of fresh paste (several dots will usually do), work it in, and continue.

As with all sharpening pastes, a surface coated with a given grit of paste should be dedicated to that grit alone. While it is possible to increase the grit size, you cannot decrease it. A surface once used for .25 micron may subsequently be used with 1.0 micron, but you cannot do the reverse. Diamond-paste sharpening is similar to the use of other multi-paste systems and to the use of hones; that is, a coarser grade of paste is used for a dull blade, followed by finer and finer grades of paste until a properly refined edge is reached.

To maintain a fleet of regularly used razors, typically a two-step process, beginning with 1.0 micron, followed by .25 micron (and perhaps, to smooth the edge, a final application of Chromox paste—see further on) will achieve a perfectly smooth edge. To prevent cross-contamination, completely wipe off the blade when moving from coarser grit to finer, and again before moving on to your Chromox-pasted strop and/or further, to an un-pasted, finishing strop.

The motion used on the diamond-pasted surface is identical to that employed with any other pasted paddle-strop or hanging-strop—working from the blade’s heel to the point as you travel up or down the surface, leading with the razor’s back, and applying no pressure—using only the weight of the razor to maintain constant contact between the razor edge and the pasted surface. The typical “X pattern” used with traditional pastes and stropping is to be recommended. After having sharpened your razor, you should finish on the Chromox-pasted strop and/or an un-pasted leather strop, Your razor is now ready to use. Routine use of the un-pasted leather, pre-shave stropping may be resumed for successive daily shaves.

When needed (most probably every 2-3 weeks), the multi-step Bio-Diam strop procedure, should be all that is necessary to keep your razors in perfect shaving condition.

Use of Chromox finishing paste:

Chromium oxide edge-smoothing compound, when properly used on a paddle or hanging-strop, smoothes or takes the “bite” out of a very sharp, aggressive edge. Over-use will decrease the closeness of the shave; proper use will give you the smoothest edge that you’ve ever experienced, with no loss of shave closeness. Our ref. Chromox paste is perfect for use after sharpening with extra-fine diamond grits 0.50 and 0.25 microns (and is also suitable for use after super-fine hones, such as Shapton 16,000 or 30,000 grits, Chinese 12,000 grits, or even Belgian Coticule stones.) It is also sometimes of use after finishing with extremely fine non-diamond stropping-pastes.

It is recommended to use Chromox paste on either a fine leather paddle-strop (example, the finest side of our ref. 444 paddle-strop, or on the fine leather side of either our ref. 259, Voystrop-N or M, or 276 paddle-strops) or on a fine leather hanging-strop.
Important—the chromium oxide paste must fill the pores in your strop; you don’t want it to coat the surface. Before first use, with your fingers, rub in a generous amount of paste to completely cover the surface and fill all voids. Then, with a paper towel, wipe all the excess paste off the surface. When you are getting only a trace of lapping paste on your towel, your strop is ready for use. Before applying the chromium oxide paste, you should always stir it well, to avoid settling of the chromium oxide particles in the mixture. We recommend that you stir with a small piece of wood and then wipe this piece on the strop to be covered, so as to avoid wastage.

Some experimentation will be required to get the results you prefer. We suggest starting with ten back-and-forth passes in an “X” pattern on the strop as a first test, and then more if necessary. Remember, the only true test of the blade edge is shaving with it!

Suggested sharpening schedule (see above for stropping techniques).

For a blade needing restoration:
Following use of an appropriate hone/or hones we recommend progressive use of the following: Bio-Diam 6 micron, Bio-Diam 3 micron, Bio-Diam 1 micron, Bio-Diam 0.25 micron, Chromox and finally, an unpasted strop

For an out-of-the-box razor, not yet shave-ready:
We recommend progressive use of the following: Bio-Diam 6 micron, Bio-Diam 3 micron, Bio-Diam 1 micron, Bio-Diam 0.25 micron, Chromox and finally, an unpasted strop

For a razor already in regular use:
We recommend, once every 2 or 3 weeks, progressive use of the following: Bio-Diam 1 micron, Bio-Diam 0.25 micron, Chromox and finally, an unpasted strop

Plus for daily upkeep of the same razor:
We recommend pre-shave use of either a strop coated with Thiers-Issard non-diamond ref. 260 finishing-paste followed by an unpasted strop or, if desired, an unpasted strop alone.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
Not TI paste but I have had experience with diamond paste followed by CrOx.

I used 0.5μm diamond > 0.25μm diamond > 0.1μm diamond all on balsa, stropped on clean leather and shaved. Next day I did the same with the diamond pastes followed by stropping on CrOx on leather. This shave was noticeably worse. I repeated these two processes two more times with the same results. I then never used CrOx again.

Of course others may prefer a CrOx finish. We all have different tastes in life.
 
Ok so I bought the TI 4 sided strop and Bio Diamond Paste. I had been using several other diamond paste that were purchased on Amazon. I threw away my balsa strops and other paste. All I can say is if you are not happy with your shaving edge on pasted strop or balsa. It is worth it. Yes the price point sucks. But wow! I even purchased a shave ready razor from a gent on bay who has been honing for 30 years. The edge I could not shave with. 12 passes on each side and it is amazing. As many have stated it will not fix a crappy hone job. But if you aren't happy with the edge and have some spare cash. Go for it, you will not be sorry.
 
I keep wanting to try TI paste but am not sure about what to put it on. I don't want to buy a hanging strop for just the paste. Can you use TI paste on a balsa strop?
 
I keep wanting to try TI paste but am not sure about what to put it on. I don't want to buy a hanging strop for just the paste. Can you use TI paste on a balsa strop?
Balsa would work. On my vintage hanging strops, the paste is either on the fabric component or on the back of the leather component held in a pattern embossed in the leather.

I have a CrOx knife bench strop I made from a leather piece mounted on a 4x4 block (you know, a 3 1/2 x 3 1/2). A horizontal bench strop will hold the paste without patterning or a weave. Gravity!

So, make a fabric or leather bench strop. Seat belt webbing, denim, canvas - lots of fabrics should work. I can get great leather scraps nearby for cheap, so I tend in that direction. A cheap leather belt could also be repurposed.
 
Over 12 years later.... Anyone else with experience using the TI paste or diamond pastes with chromium oxide?

Like @rbscebu , I have stropped razors on green CrOx (polishing compound on a well prepared leather bench strop). Not a fan of the resulting shaving edges. It is great for finishing/polishing the edges of my whittling knives.
 
“I keep wanting to try TI paste but am not sure about what to put it on. I don't want to buy a hanging strop for just the paste. Can you use TI paste on a balsa strop?”

Yes, but Balsa contains it’s own grit, which may be larger than the paste, YMMV. Select a substrate that contains no grit for best results.

Paste 3-inch X’s on a piece of cardboard, inside of a cereal box, and place on the edge of a flat counter. If you like the edge, make a hanging strop from Pellon, or Nylon strapping, both available from any fabric store for a few dollars. Tony Miller also sold a well-made single fabric strop inexpensively.

With a hanging strop you are less likely to use too much pressure. Stropping on a pasted paddle it is easy to get too aggressive and thin the edge to where micro chipping occurs.

Green polishing compound is not pure Chromium Oxide, some may not even contain Chromium Oxide.
 
“I keep wanting to try TI paste but am not sure about what to put it on. I don't want to buy a hanging strop for just the paste. Can you use TI paste on a balsa strop?”

Yes, but Balsa contains it’s own grit, which may be larger than the paste, YMMV. Select a substrate that contains no grit for best results.

Paste 3-inch X’s on a piece of cardboard, inside of a cereal box, and place on the edge of a flat counter. If you like the edge, make a hanging strop from Pellon, or Nylon strapping, both available from any fabric store for a few dollars. Tony Miller also sold a well-made single fabric strop inexpensively.

With a hanging strop you are less likely to use too much pressure. Stropping on a pasted paddle it is easy to get too aggressive and thin the edge to where micro chipping occurs.

Green polishing compound is not pure Chromium Oxide, some may not even contain Chromium Oxide.

The nylon strapping sounds convenient, easy and inexpensive - and a good way to learn how to make a strop. I like it!
 
I tend to avoid using wood strops, but the silica content isn't one of the reasons. I just dont like the action at the apex with razors.
With certain types of uber fine abrasives, the stuff can get lost until a build up is formed and then that surface can be a hurdle. For a lot of cutlery it's fine but I prefer a textured cotton surface or a textured leather. Very hard felt can be ok, depends on the quality; has to be super clean.

Any substrate can work, it's a matter of whether whoever likes how it works or if they can adjust to make it work to their liking.
My first charged linen was from Jose, some sort of barbershop webbing that used to be available. It worked but someone here (Seraphim) suggested using an old cotton webbing belt and that stuff nailed it. I keep trying new substrates, but also keep going back to the hanging webbing. I do have some paddles with webbing, leather, and felts glued to them though.

Not a fan of using pastes on synthetic webbing, like seat belt stuff or similar, esp with low grit particulate that is essentially loose, like DI diamond slurry.

Also not a fan of using abrasive compounds on anything smooth either, papers or cardboards, smooth leathers, etc. Esp if I am going any type of paste progression.

I just got finished running some comparison testing with 'high spec' .1 mono diamond; best efficiency and end results were from a low concentration di solution on a very high nap nubuck leather on a 1/8" thick silicone sheet glued to a 1/4" thick slab of G10. If I liked diamond as a 'thing' I'd keep using that setup. But I don't like diamond, so...there's that.

I never had a data sheet for those TI pastes, but I did try a few of them out and they seemed, to me, to be poly. Which is why I suppose the instructed people to finish on Crox, to help smooth it out. To me that's like a hail Mary pass with 3 seconds on the clock. And that Crox would need to be a specific type and quality. Still, Chromox edges are not usually loved by me. Some guys say they do like them, but I wonder if they have shopped their edges around on other abrasives though.
Poly diamond is fine for grunt work but not finishing razors IMO.
Better, IMO, to use mono all the way to .1, and to finial-finish on something significantly smoother.

You can mix Chromox with diamond powder - depending on ratio and particle size choice, the results can be pretty interesting.
 
Years ago, I experimented exhaustively with paste and substrates. You can get some very keen edges or keep a razor shaving well with paste. But Diamonds are aggressive and will thin an edge with prolonged use. Few steels can support these thinned edges and begin to microchip.

About 50-100 laps will remove all stria from an 8k edge. A lot depends on the paste, grit size, pressure and substrate. So, experiment.

The good news is if the edge crumbles, it is not a big deal. Just joint the edge and reset it on a high grit stone, 8k or higher.

You can strop on Chromium Oxide for a very comfortable edge. I once stropped a razor on Chromium Oxide daily and shaved with that razor for over a year, with no ill effects. After about a week all stria was removed and saved just fine.

My favorite substrate for Chromium Oxide is Sail Cloth, polyester canvas and CBN on Pellon, a synthetic paper fabric stiffener. For experimentation cardboard is tough to beat as a substrate.

Sailcloth can be cut, and it will not unravel and can easily be glued with iron on fusing tape. The glue bond is super strong, and you can make a strop in minutes. A yard of Sailcloth will make about 20 strops. Pellon can also be glued with fusing tape, Pellon is similar to Tyvek but not as slick.

There is a big difference between hanging and paddle stropping, you really need to experiment. I rarely use paste on razors anymore, except when honing. I often strop on a pasted Chrome Oxide strop between stones.

I do use pasted leather paddle with knives and tools almost daily. For tools I use Diamonds, CBN and Maas metal polish. You can scrape smooth leather with a sharp card scraper or knife for a nice, napped leather finish that will hold paste nicely.

The biggest problem I have found with pasted strops is contamination. Airborne dust will land on stops and often the dust is larger than the paste grit. Dust will scratch a bevel, and a scratch will lead to a chip. You can prolong a paddle’s longevity by making a cardboard scabbard and religiously replace the strop. I also have covers for my hanging strops. They both work but eventually dust gets everywhere.

Paste can be a deep rabbit hole.

3-inch Sail Cloth strop.
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