Thuringian Slurry on Hard/Fine JNAT

[Matt O]

Gents,

I have a nice chunk of green Thuringian that I use as a slurry stone on my Escher Barbers Gem.

I was thinking about using it to build a slurry on the JNAT base hone that I have been using. I was too lazy to try it out today, but probably will next…perhaps on the 1st Gen Especial that I finished yesterday.

Does anyone have any experience in trying this? How did it work out for you as the finishing step?

Thanks!

Vr

Matt

 

[Toro Blanco]

It works pretty good actually. I have tried it with y/g, light green, and blue slurry stones on a hard jnat and got good results.

I will say though that a matched tomo works even better, faster and finer but it is not that easy to find it. Much testing is needed and you must have access to quality stock of tomo. Which in itself is not to easy much less quality tomo's.
When you do find it!, it is one of those aha! moments that you will never forget. Like when you discover a very very good jnat.
You are just like wow, now I know what these guys are talking about.

Thuri's are much slower and not as fine but still give a very good edge but I know there is another level. Nothing to look down on whats so ever and always fun to test and play in the mud.

 

[ables]

I dont have a jnat bench stone yet but I have had success using thuringian slurry on my Rozsutec, just a little bit helps polish the edge up nicely and changes the feel. I also tried on a hard Arkansas and was less impressed but there was benefits in speed. Just dont over do it, keep it to trace amounts of slurry. I think any sufficiently hard base stone can function somewhat in this cross slurry manner even if it seems blasphemous to some. Thuringian slurry i have found to be one of the most compatible while coticule doesnt seem to play nicely at all!

 

[Gamma]

Thuringian slurry has not improved edges when honing on a thuri for me; it's more of a lurbricant/honing medium/stone cleaning thing. The loose particulate in that 'slime' (as Escher called it) is actually 'effectively coarser' than the polished stone's working surface with a water medium. Because Thuri slurry is 'thicker' than water, it might be capable of reducing friction somewhat.I can see where someone with a heavier hand might think they're advancing the edge that way. But a lighter touch will improve the edge further, it's always best to improve skills instead of cheating the stone.

Thuri slurry also does not appear to have any, or enough, friability to 'break down' to improve the situation. Basically, Thuri slurry has been a lateral move than anything else. I do start off with a slurry on an escher most times though, just to clear the surface though. Continuing on Thuri slurry yields zero improvement past a point. Moving to clear water and a good surface takes the edge much further though. Much further actually.

The silica in Thuri slurry is also coarser than what I get from my Jnats - so it's a backward move in that technique. I've slurried a literal ton of stones on Jnats; cotis, eschers, randome thuris, and so on, only to find that the majority of options are not capable of producing refinement near what I am able to get with a decent Tomo. In many cases the edge goes in reverse. Maybe I get some smooth but always at the sake of a loss of apex condition/refinement.

Again - the choice of stone, Tomo and the users skills with those stones are going to factor in heavily.

Thuri slurry on a quality 8k synth has produced 'something' interesting though, it seems to act like a 'filler' that reduces the depth of cut from the stone's abrasive. I sense a bump over the synths grit rating. There's a well known guy in Japan that uses Mikawa Nagura on synths to achieve similar results in the same way.

Depending on the choice of Tomo, doing this in reverse can get interesting though. A very hard Tomo might not slurry on a Thuri. But, one that is just a hair softer but not so soft that it is 'too coarse' for the finishing work to overcome the initial 'set back', can make things interesting enough to play with. Still, the end results are always better with using the Tomo with an appropriate
and matching Honzan.

 

[Matt O]

Thanks gents! I have a nice Tomo, and really like the edges/shaves I have been getting from the full Nagura progression alone…perhaps I will skip trying this one!

Vr

Matt

 

[Lord Fatboy]

Thanks gents! I have a nice Tomo, and really like the edges/shaves I have been getting from the full Nagura progression alone…perhaps I will skip trying this one!

Vr

Matt

Don't skip it.
Try it and see what you think.

 

[BBS Kirk]

Go for it, Matt!

 

[Yanky]

I just recently got a new Escher that came without a slurry stone. I was searching for a matching slurry stone but based on your advice I think I’ll skip. I’ll try using a jnat Tomo like you suggested and see where that takes me. Thanks for saving me time time/effort!

 

[JPO]

I use a slate type nagura on my Naniwa pro 2k and on my vetrified diamond stones/plates for knife honing. It keeps the stone from loading and adds a little speed. I have used it on my Naniwa snow white with razors, but i prefer a tsushima nagura if i use a nagura on this stone.
I prefer a tomo on a jnat.
I have also used a slate slurry on a les let hybrid. It speeds up the stone, but the slurry do not seem to add anything to the final edge. The slurry do not seem to be friable to the same extent as a jnat, even if it feel really smooth.