Hope I'm still in the club, I started it.
You're still the President, but it's a 1912.
Cheers, George
The Century Club
- Thread starter Inari7
- Start date
You're still the President, but it's a 1912.
Cheers, George
would a Gem count? Might go buy it for an entry in the century club!
Sure, the fourth number is hard to make out but using a jewelers loop, I am pretty sure it's an 8.
C180810
View attachment 529201
Side view
View attachment 529202
Hope I'm still in the club, I started it.
looks like a 3 to me
- Thread starter
- #24
Of course!
- Thread starter
- #25
My mistake but the serial numbers for 1911 are crazy. Seems like they go backward then in 1912 they go foward.
The single ring has the reputation of being an aggressive razor has anyone adjusted it for more aggression?
I would be afraid the blade might move. Around.
I will have to wait a little while, my single ring with a date code is 1915.
- Thread starter
- #28
SURE anyone with a razor 100+ is "IN"
Pepin don't worry your 1915 does not have long to wait.
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In the position shown as Light Shave on the Gillette instruction sheet it is not all that aggressive. Adding a shim increases the aggression and a shim plus the Close Shave positon raises the aggression close to the R41, IMHO.
Cheers, George
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I just won a 1906 double ring for $32
I'd like to join!
I'd like to join!
Congratulations on your score, however that's not a Double Ring, it's a Single Ring. The box is actually from C1910 or later, but these razors are often mismatched with their case. Do you have a serial number?
Cheers, George
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Ywah I just got schooled on it. not yet just won the auction. I'll have the data in a few days, then we will see.
Don't feel discouraged. I have a collection of Single Rings but I've never got a bargain like you have. That razor will cleanup beautifully if you want to go that way. Some like the patina (I'm not one of them). If the box is an indication I'd say it will come out to be around 1912 and the box looks to be in reasonable condition. You've acquired a razor that most only dream of for a bargain basement price. Well done.
Cheers, George
Cheers, George
some other Brits did ok too:
Fredrick Reynolds 9/8 near wedge, 1861-1891, rescaled in honey horn by Doc226, after I cleaned up the blade:
not my blade or pic, but I have one of these too, an 1861-1891 Fredrick Reynolds 7/8 Faux Frameback in the original dyed horn scales:
and I've got a 1912.
Fredrick Reynolds 9/8 near wedge, 1861-1891, rescaled in honey horn by Doc226, after I cleaned up the blade:
not my blade or pic, but I have one of these too, an 1861-1891 Fredrick Reynolds 7/8 Faux Frameback in the original dyed horn scales:
and I've got a 1912.
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- Thread starter
- #35
So cool, I know nothing about Straight razors, is it common for them to be 100 years old or were straights common for many years after the safety razors became popular?
they're still being made today.
- Thread starter
- #37
So are DE's, but how popular were they when the DE was popular?
Are most straights you come across, from the 20's or older or are most from the same time period as the when DE's were popular?
Are most straights you come across, from the 20's or older or are most from the same time period as the when DE's were popular?
How about some love for Century Single Edge razors?
This Gem de Luxe set is circa 1911, and was actually the first of the 1912 line:
Or how about some lather catchers:
The Gem Junior Bars on the left are from 1907 or so, the Every Ready's, 1911.
--Bob
This Gem de Luxe set is circa 1911, and was actually the first of the 1912 line:
Or how about some lather catchers:
The Gem Junior Bars on the left are from 1907 or so, the Every Ready's, 1911.
--Bob
Beautiful Lather Catchers Spidey!
Most affordable vintage straights are 1900-60s, and production has fallen lower since, but.... There's plenty new builds, plus customs. And a recent resurgence.
quality pieces from the 19th century demand a premium, but can be found beat up cheaply, then restored, much like my first one. It was completely black and fuzzy with rust/growths.... I chose to stop where I did to preserve the geometry of the blade, so it would still perform correctly, without regrinding it into a different blade. It's a big heavy beast of a wedge. I wanted to preserve that, and had to leave the cosmetic blemishes in it.
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