Taking the straight razor plunge

[Phoenix997]

I feel a very strong urge to get a straight razor. This will be my first time using an SR.

I am real keen but have some reservations about cutting myself. A few nicks and cuts I'm not bothered about but deep gashes that would leave big scars I want to avoid.

With practice will I be able to master it avoid deep gashes?

And what's a good SR to start with? Dovo seem to have some really nice models. I like their Edo which is 5/8 width, not sure if that's good or bad for a beginner. And their Bismarck looks pleasant too.

Thiers Issard also look amazing. As do the Japanese Kamisori but they look so sharp I wouldn't assume they are for beginners.

 

[Koop]

I started recently. Nicked myself with the first few shaves - nothing serious though. Use common sense - hold a low angle (spine close to your face) and take your time. I had to back off and only use the SR on my cheeks (from ear to mouth) to gain more skill at setting the angle and not using pressure. I use a DE razor on my neck and jawline for the time being. I'm also a head shaver and use a DE there as well.

Having a good "shave ready" edge on your SR is essential.

 

[sanookd]

Congratulations on taking the plunge into the amazing world of SR Shaving.
You should by all means consider buying a vintage SR that has been restored and honed to a shave ready edge. I think if you check out Griffith Shaving Goods, Matt usually has a nice assortment of not terribly expensive straights which are honed to shave readiness.
Before you invest a lot of $$$ you can get in the game and see if you like it.
I’d to go slowly and keep the angle low (spine close to face) so you shouldn’t get any deep cuts. Remember no pressure. Start with your cheeks first as they are the biggest area of flat real estate.
You will also need a strop of some kind to start off with as well. Oh reminder a stypic pencil too.
Good luck entering the rabbit hole. It is a long way down.

 

[Ravenonrock]

That’s how it starts, an “urge” to get a straight razor. Go with that curiosity, it will support you along the way. Gather information, understand some basic things involved with straight razor shaving and take the plunge when you are ready. Good luck on your journey!

 

[silverlifter]

The cuts you get from a straight, at least on your face, are really likely to be no worse than a DE. You'll be so much more cautious, understandably, that your first shaves will be fine. It's once you think you know what you're doing, and your confidence gets in front of your ability, that you'll draw blood.

I got to my mid-teen shaves before I cut myself up. And the only bad cut was my thumb pad when I picked up the razor between passes inattentively and learned my lesson...

Go for it. The only regret straight shavers ever express is not starting sooner!

 

[Frank Shaves]

Will second buying a shave-ready razor from Matt at Griffith Shaving Goods. Matt sells new and nicely restored razors. He typically lists "new" restored razors every week or two, usually on Sundays.

5/8 to 7/8 are more common on Badger & Blade and 4/8 and 8/8 less common.

 

[Phoenix997]

Ok guys I am going for it. Now just to pick the right one.

One more question. Will I still need a DE? I just bought a new one I have used yet.

Thanks for the recommendation but I am based in London and one thing our government loves is taxes so anything I order from America will probably cost me double in taxes.

DOVO Edo Spruce 5/8 Razor | The Invisible Edge

The DOVO Edo spruce 5/8 carbon razor showcases Japanese inspired design to produce an elegant razor with an inverted Turkish point

www.theinvisibleedge.co.uk

Shigeki Tanaka Kamisori Razor | The Invisible Edge

A Japanese razor hand forged by Shigeki Tanaka this kamisori is made by laminating high carbon blue 2 steel in 16 alternating layers to produce an extremely sharp blade.

www.theinvisibleedge.co.uk

Thiers Issard 'Le Dandy' White 6/8 Straight Razor

Thiers Issard 'Le Dandy' White 6/8 Straight Razor Item number 41D-6/8-275-DD-PB ‘Singing’ hollowed round nose straight razor 100% carbon C135 Steel Satin polished blade Anti-slip knurling on the underside of the tang White synthetic scales Electro-chemical black ‘Le Dandy’ mark on blade...

www.theenglishshavingcompany.com

Boker Count Everhard Gold & Horn 5/8 Straight Razor

Boker Count Everhard Gold & Horn 5/8 Straight Razor Made with 1.2210 carbon steel Polished blade finish with round point shape Extra hollow grind with ridge Steel hardness rating of 59 HRC 5/8

www.theenglishshavingcompany.com

Dovo Bismarck White Perla 6/8 | Cut Throat Club

Purchase this Dovo Bismarck White Perla 6/8" Cut Throat Razor at Cut Throat Club. This razor is hand-honed in the factory and is shave ready. Order now!

www.cutthroatclub.co.uk

Some of them are a bit on the pricier end but I like good quality dress shoes and one of the sayings we have is always buy the shoes you want because you'll get at the end anyway and they'll just cost you more. So I don't mind so much going for one I really like such as the Edo

 

[sanookd]

Ok guys I am going for it. Now just to pick the right one.

One more question. Will I still need a DE? I just bought a new one I have used yet.

Thanks for the recommendation but I am based in London and one thing our government loves is taxes so anything I order from America will probably cost me double in taxes.

DOVO Edo Spruce 5/8 Razor | The Invisible Edge

The DOVO Edo spruce 5/8 carbon razor showcases Japanese inspired design to produce an elegant razor with an inverted Turkish point

www.theinvisibleedge.co.uk

Shigeki Tanaka Kamisori Razor | The Invisible Edge

A Japanese razor hand forged by Shigeki Tanaka this kamisori is made by laminating high carbon blue 2 steel in 16 alternating layers to produce an extremely sharp blade.

www.theinvisibleedge.co.uk

Thiers Issard 'Le Dandy' White 6/8 Straight Razor

Thiers Issard 'Le Dandy' White 6/8 Straight Razor Item number 41D-6/8-275-DD-PB ‘Singing’ hollowed round nose straight razor 100% carbon C135 Steel Satin polished blade Anti-slip knurling on the underside of the tang White synthetic scales Electro-chemical black ‘Le Dandy’ mark on blade...

www.theenglishshavingcompany.com

Boker Count Everhard Gold & Horn 5/8 Straight Razor

Boker Count Everhard Gold & Horn 5/8 Straight Razor Made with 1.2210 carbon steel Polished blade finish with round point shape Extra hollow grind with ridge Steel hardness rating of 59 HRC 5/8

www.theenglishshavingcompany.com

Dovo Bismarck White Perla 6/8 | Cut Throat Club

Purchase this Dovo Bismarck White Perla 6/8" Cut Throat Razor at Cut Throat Club. This razor is hand-honed in the factory and is shave ready. Order now!

www.cutthroatclub.co.uk

Some of them are a bit on the pricier end but I like good quality dress shoes and one of the sayings we have is always buy the shoes you want because you'll get at the end anyway and they'll just cost you more. So I don't mind so much going for one I really like such as the Edo

Buy what is pleasing to your eye because you’re the one shaving with it.
Whichever you buy just be certain it is really shave ready or your experience will not be pleasant. Usually new razors that you buy from a vendor and it it says hand honed at the factory are not considered shave ready by most straight razor shavers.
Reliable vendors will usually make a factory honed blade truly shave ready.
You will only need a DE razor to clean up when you’ve done all you’re comfortable doing with the straight. Eventually you will wean yourself off the DE Razor.
Remember you will need that strop.
If to get a blade that the vendor says has just been honed and is shave ready DO NOT STROP IT.
Good luck

 

[Phoenix997]

Buy what is pleasing to your eye because you’re the one shaving with it.
Whichever you buy just be certain it is really shave ready or your experience will not be pleasant. Usually new razors that you buy from a vendor and it it says hand honed at the factory are not considered shave ready by most straight razor shavers.
Reliable vendors will usually make a factory honed blade truly shave ready.
You will only need a DE razor to clean up when you’ve done all you’re comfortable doing with the straight. Eventually you will wean yourself off the DE Razor.
Remember you will need that strop.
If to get a blade that the vendor says has just been honed and is shave ready DO NOT STROP IT.
Good luck

Thank you @sanookd. Really invaluable advice and giving me the confidence to just get on with it.

I will get a strop. After the first shave if it is shave ready, do I strop before and after each shave?

And honing I can send it to a specialist to do? Honing seems daunting.

 

[Legion]

I remember messing up my face a lot more with a DE when I was learning than a SR.

 

[Legion]

Thank you @sanookd. Really invaluable advice and giving me the confidence to just get on with it.

I will get a strop. After the first shave if it is shave ready, do I strop before and after each shave?

And honing I can send it to a specialist to do? Honing seems daunting.

Some people strop after the shave, some before, and many both. But the main thing is it will need stropping between each shave.

Yes, there are a people who will do it for you. But once the razor has been made shave ready, touching it up to keep it that way is not so hard.

 

[GNR]

I’ve been using Straight Razors for about a year…Do It!

In the beginning your shaves will not be as great as you want. Patience.

You’ll have a few small cuts here and there while learning. They don’t hurt and heal quickly.

Don’t be afraid to use your off hand, it’ll work believe it or not. I have significant L shoulder injuries, so I can only use my off hand about 25% of the shave. In the beginning I refused to because I was afraid. I’m a big dummy, my shaves got so much better once I overcame my fear and used both hands.

Don’t be afraid of a Kamisori but it’s probably easier to learn on a Western Straight Razor.

The people here are a wealth of knowledge and will help with any issues. Ask questions and listen to all of the answers, then experiment.

Also, if one of the awesome folks on here known for honing, offer to put an edge on your razor…jump for joy and ship it!

A properly sharp Straight Razor makes learning much easier and it’s wicked comfortable.

It’s a journey worth traveling.

Good luck & have fun.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Ultimately, you need to make the decision about which razor to buy. I can only share my experience.

I bought two new TI razors in 2021. At the time, TI had a quality control problem letting some razors with uneven grinds make their way to customers. A new TI razor made of C135 steel with an even grind is a very nice razor. I bought one of my TI razors from Adam at The Invisible Edge. I asked Adam if he had a new TI with an even grind. He said yes and delivered a very nice razor.

I have three new DOVO razors from around the same time - all with even grinds. Since I bought my DOVO razors, DOVO has changed ownership and seems to be investing in their straight razors. I would ask the seller about the quality of the new DOVO razors.

 

[PintoPlain]

Good to see you're open to exploring straights. I'm just going to add my €0.02 to what has been said above.

I would suggest either a 5/8 or 6/8 razor to start. These are the easiest to control when starting out in my opinion. They are also the easiest to find as they were made in their millions.

Don't discount vintage straights. Any that were really bad would have been culled from the heard by now. If the edge is relatively straight and not shaped with either a pronounced smile or frown it is a good starting point.

As others have said, a good edge is imperative when starting out. The likelihood is if you try to hone your own razor with no baseline as to what a good edge should be like, you will be disappointed.

As @GNR said, don't be afraid to use your off hand. As you're learning a new skill try to use both hands as early as possible. You can only use one hand, but I find using both easier to get the angles right.

You will take time to get comparable shave compared with your usual shaving method be it DE, carts or electric. The aim for the first few shaves is try to get the angles right and try to remove the lather from your face. Doing this will keep the blood on the inside of your skin. Closeness will come.

I can only reiterate what @silverlifter said above about overconfidence. I got through the first few months with barely a nick and then got sloppy. I can still see the scar as a reminder. Patience and practice are the keys when learning/using a straight.

Unfortunately you can't get practice by watching YouTube or reading forums, you have to do it.

Good luck.

 

[sanookd]

Thank you @sanookd. Really invaluable advice and giving me the confidence to just get on with it.

I will get a strop. After the first shave if it is shave ready, do I strop before and after each shave?

And honing I can send it to a specialist to do? Honing seems daunting.

Most of us straight razor shavers strop a few times after the shave basically to clean and dry the edge. I do 15 laps on cotton or linen and 15 on leather.
Before each shave I do 30 and 60 laps respectively.
As i said no need to strop a truly shave ready blade for the first time right off the stones that someone else hones for you. The honer should have stropped it for you as the final step.
i advise you not to get a very expensive strop until you develop your stropping technique because if you’ve never stropped a razor before you’ll probably cut the leather. Stropping is an important technique unto itself which develops over time.
i can’t recommend any honers because I don’t know your location.
Definitely have a pro hone it first time or better be sure you acquire it shave ready by a pro. You need a shave ready benchmark edge for your first shave to judge all your future edges.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

The purpose of stropping on leather is to straighten the cutting edge and put a final polish on the bevel and edge, it is your last chance to perfect the edge, before the razor touches your face.

The actual edge is too thin to see without SEM magnification and can be re-aligned easily by stropping.

You strop after shaving to clean the bevel and edge of soap, water, skin blood and oxidation/rust, and prevent all of the above from contaminating your finish leather strop. The minute you stop shaving all the above begins to attack the thinnest part of your razor, the edge, so the better you can clean and dry it the longer your edge will last.

You can not remove all the smutch simply by wiping with a towel or tissue, microscopic bit will remain. Look at the edge after cleaning with magnification. I wipe well with a damp and dry Microfiber and do a quick 10-20 laps on linen and leather post shaving. I wipe pinching the bevel with thumb and fore finger over the towel, spine in the web of the hand.

Some linen, flax, hemp and some cottons are also abrasive and will polish more than others as are some leathers. I do believe the weave may also play a small part in this also, or at least in how a razor feels on different weaves of linen strops. I do not like stropping on stiff linen.

Yes, it is common to nick or cut a strop but there is a trade off in buying a cheap strop, junk “leather” that will not finish as well as a quality leather strop, just because you may nick it. Once nicked or cut most strops will still strop well, and most cuts can be glued down with rubber cement or judiciously with CA glue on a toothpick.

There are several newer strop makers on the market, and many will sell replacement components, so if you do nick a strop badly a replacement is easy to find. Tony Miller, (Heirloom Strops) a member here sells a quality beginners strop for around $50, and you can purchase replacements or upgraded strops in place of buying a whole new strop once you have mastered stropping.

If you purchase vintage, ensure it is clean or stropping on a contaminated strop can be self-defeating.

It can take some time to learn to strop properly, (get to the point where you are consistently improving the edge with each lap). A single errant lap can roll an edge.

Propper stropping is way, way underrated and can keep you shaving for a long time.

 

[Phoenix997]

Thanks again everyone for all your valuable input and advice.

I'm getting close to deciding on a razor. I do like the Kamisori but they seem bit daunting for a first timer.

I'm leaning towards either the Dovo Edo or this Boker

Boker Count Everhard Gold & Horn 5/8 Straight Razor - https://www.theenglishshavingcompany.com/en_gb/boker-count-everhard-gold-horn-5-8-straight-razor.html.



Very different looks, one very simple, the other quite ornate.

In terms of quality are both makers similar? I haven't heard of either until about two weeks ago.

The boker doesnt say if it is shave ready or not so I assume I would need to send it to get honed ?

 

[Tomo]

I haven’t had anything worse than a papercut. But then I haven’t nicked a strop yet either. Be careful and you’ll be ok.

Invisible Edge would be a good choice. They offer a honing service on new razors that they send out. It should come with a good edge. They have a good selection and are based in the UK.

 

[Frank Shaves]

FYI, traditionally kamisoris have asymmetric grinds, which is different than the symmetric grind on western-style razors. There are also symmetric ground kamisoris, but these are less common.

 

[Phoenix997]

FYI, traditionally kamisoris have asymmetric grinds, which is different than the symmetric grind on western-style razors. There are also symmetric ground kamisoris, but these are less common.

Thank you, yes I came across that. That actually appeals to me as I wouldn't have to use my left hand