Well, it was last March or so when I went to buy some Mach III refills and said, "this is crap. These things are so damn expensive!!"
I spotted some Gillette double edge blades there that day and thought, people must be shaving with those things still. I wonder where I can cop a razor?
I had already been to B & B previously to research a replacement shaving brush, having been a soap and brush man for decades. Cans of goo always seemed ridiculous and wasteful to me.
I became suddenly fascinated, nay obsessed with double edge shaving. Impatient to get started and start experimenting, I did some research and concluded the best DE out there was the Jagger DE L89. Also I had a Jagger brush from C&E so it seemed a natch.
While waiting for the Jagger to arrive I bought a cake of Williams and a cake of VDH at the drugstore.
I had previously just swabbed my brush unceremoniously on some Aveda Men's soap and done a one-pass with an Excel, Sensor II, Sensor III or Mach III. I would blade-buff the stubborn spots without re-lathering and call it a shave. (I did not yet know what blade buffing was. I just did it).
After a brief try with my Jagger and some Walgreen's house brand blades I went straight for some Feathers. What a difference. If you use crappy blades the DE razor offers no advantage over cartridges whatsoever.
And I just had to try some of those old Gillette SS's and Adjustables my Dad shaved with and I did too as a teenager, so off to the Bay I went. I ordered a silver SS, a Blue Tip SS, a Red Tip SS a Slim Adjustable and then found a 1951 SS and two '56's at a an antique emporium up in the mountains.
I also ran across an ancient Merkur slant-bar in original chrome box on eBay for $37 and bought that. It came with the orignial Wilkinson Sword blades which I have not tried yet. Pictures are posted on B&B.
Tried? Oh yeah. So in the last six months I have tried all this stuff in different combinations and have formed some definite opinions. Despite my fetish for DE, I have reservations. Yet, I am compelled to ponder foraying into SE shaving as well. Just because being able to complete a shave with a straight edge is exceptionally bad-***, like being able build a log cabin from scratch.
Since I am still to "young" on B&B to post reviews I will share my high-leve findings here:
Generally, DE shaving is closer than cartridge shaving on facial areas that are front-and-center but it is harder on the skin, even when following the hallowed advice of light or no pressure. The block-like configuration of a DE razor is less conducive for getting into tight spaces that a smaller swivel cartridge can brook with ease.
Just recently I tried some Derby blades and found them to be clumsy, less sharp and therefore more irritating than the Feathers. I truly believe razor burn is largely a function of shaving with a dull or inefficient blade. One takes to many passes and/or uses too much pressure in order to force the dullard to deliver a BB close shave.
The sharper feathers do well in this regard and reward a light touch with a close shave on most of the face.
It has been suggested to use DE for the big surfaces and then touch up with a cartridge. I have done that to satisfactory effect but it seems somehow like cheating.
I have a light, fine beard but find that has no bearing on the "aggressiveness" of razor that is ideal for me. I get the most effective shaves with more aggressive set-ups, including Feather blades with all my razors
To wit:
Most SS's, including the Red Tip are not quite aggressive enough to give me a uniformly close shave. The Red Tip is slightly better than the silvers but not quite as good as my older two ring '51 SS, which is the most aggressive, efficient SS I own. That old beater yields the best shave of any of my SS's.
Contrary to popular wisdom, I do not find the Slant Bar to be brutally aggressive. Oh, it is a decisive mower, much more so than the SS's and even the adjustable on 8 or 9. And the more downward blade angle is a bigger differentiator than the slant aspect.
But the Slant was the first razor that took me through 2 or 3 commendable shaves without drawing ANY blood! Perhaps I was being more careful with it due to its reputation. But once you get used to shaving with the handle down to accomodate the blade angle, it is one precise and decisive razor. I would never part with it.
After a long spell with the Slim Adjustable as my go-to razor, followed by heavy rotation of the Slant with some occasional SS shaves mixed in, I did settle on the Jagger as my main squeeze. The downward angle of the Slant makes it hard to get into a couple of tight spaces. The Jagger is quite aggresive with a Feather blade and, with care can deliver a thorough shave even in the old hollows.
But the experience with the Derby's took me for a traumatic whirl and I am currently commited to a week of cartridge shaving to help my face and neck recover from that trauma.
I do find that preparing with an exfoliant pre-shave soap such as Real Shaving's product makes the neck easier to get BB smooth before burn is induced. So I agree with Mantic on that point as well.
I also like their shave cream product and it is my main stay. I have not yet tried the vaunted Proraso, TOBS, Trumper and other expensive creams/soaps but plan to soon.
Where I disagree with Mantic is his assertion that skin stretching is largely unecessary with the DE. He should wait until his jowls are sagging like my old ones and then check it again. I find hold the ear back while shaving ear to chin along the jaw line to be quiet effective. Likewise holding the neck flesh down on the collarbone while shaving upward.
Before going on vacation this month I did procure a smaill tube of Art of Shaving Cream (Lavendar) and it is clearly superior to the able Real Cream. It provides a a voluminous lather and leaves the skin silky smooth.
For a long spell, I also prepped with a dollop of Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil. It smells like cinammon and is dirt cheap compared to other oils.
I tried that clove oil from WalMart that claims to substitute for cream. It is inferior both as a substitute for cream and as a base.
I just ordered some Shark blades from Kilted Shaver and am looking forward to trying those but my guess is that the Feathers are going to be hard to beat in any razor.
Also, I feel that the DE experience has taught me more about how to shave with a cartridge. Not so much pressure, change the blades before they begin to burn and apply a systematic three pass (WTG, XTG, ATG) before touching up.
As far as the cold splash, I always did that. Warm rinse, check for strays, lather and buff to satisfaction and then apply cold water to close the pores. I use Keihl's moisturizer as an after shave balm. Occassionally some Bay Rum splashed with water.
To rinse between passes, cold water works best on cartridges and warm on DE's. The cold water contracts the thin cartridge strips and keeps them tight.
That is what I have learned from B&B. I have also learned that this intense of obsession with shaving is cheap thrill and an esoteric pre-occupation that is not likely to be amusing to spouse and friends, as many of you have also discovered.
I am looking forward to writing more detailed reviews of all my tools when I have earned the stripes to do so.
Thanks for reading (if you got this far) and...
Shave Every Day and You'll Be Nice and Clean!!!
-=mojo
I spotted some Gillette double edge blades there that day and thought, people must be shaving with those things still. I wonder where I can cop a razor?
I had already been to B & B previously to research a replacement shaving brush, having been a soap and brush man for decades. Cans of goo always seemed ridiculous and wasteful to me.
I became suddenly fascinated, nay obsessed with double edge shaving. Impatient to get started and start experimenting, I did some research and concluded the best DE out there was the Jagger DE L89. Also I had a Jagger brush from C&E so it seemed a natch.
While waiting for the Jagger to arrive I bought a cake of Williams and a cake of VDH at the drugstore.
I had previously just swabbed my brush unceremoniously on some Aveda Men's soap and done a one-pass with an Excel, Sensor II, Sensor III or Mach III. I would blade-buff the stubborn spots without re-lathering and call it a shave. (I did not yet know what blade buffing was. I just did it).
After a brief try with my Jagger and some Walgreen's house brand blades I went straight for some Feathers. What a difference. If you use crappy blades the DE razor offers no advantage over cartridges whatsoever.
And I just had to try some of those old Gillette SS's and Adjustables my Dad shaved with and I did too as a teenager, so off to the Bay I went. I ordered a silver SS, a Blue Tip SS, a Red Tip SS a Slim Adjustable and then found a 1951 SS and two '56's at a an antique emporium up in the mountains.
I also ran across an ancient Merkur slant-bar in original chrome box on eBay for $37 and bought that. It came with the orignial Wilkinson Sword blades which I have not tried yet. Pictures are posted on B&B.
Tried? Oh yeah. So in the last six months I have tried all this stuff in different combinations and have formed some definite opinions. Despite my fetish for DE, I have reservations. Yet, I am compelled to ponder foraying into SE shaving as well. Just because being able to complete a shave with a straight edge is exceptionally bad-***, like being able build a log cabin from scratch.
Since I am still to "young" on B&B to post reviews I will share my high-leve findings here:
Generally, DE shaving is closer than cartridge shaving on facial areas that are front-and-center but it is harder on the skin, even when following the hallowed advice of light or no pressure. The block-like configuration of a DE razor is less conducive for getting into tight spaces that a smaller swivel cartridge can brook with ease.
Just recently I tried some Derby blades and found them to be clumsy, less sharp and therefore more irritating than the Feathers. I truly believe razor burn is largely a function of shaving with a dull or inefficient blade. One takes to many passes and/or uses too much pressure in order to force the dullard to deliver a BB close shave.
The sharper feathers do well in this regard and reward a light touch with a close shave on most of the face.
It has been suggested to use DE for the big surfaces and then touch up with a cartridge. I have done that to satisfactory effect but it seems somehow like cheating.
I have a light, fine beard but find that has no bearing on the "aggressiveness" of razor that is ideal for me. I get the most effective shaves with more aggressive set-ups, including Feather blades with all my razors
To wit:
Most SS's, including the Red Tip are not quite aggressive enough to give me a uniformly close shave. The Red Tip is slightly better than the silvers but not quite as good as my older two ring '51 SS, which is the most aggressive, efficient SS I own. That old beater yields the best shave of any of my SS's.
Contrary to popular wisdom, I do not find the Slant Bar to be brutally aggressive. Oh, it is a decisive mower, much more so than the SS's and even the adjustable on 8 or 9. And the more downward blade angle is a bigger differentiator than the slant aspect.
But the Slant was the first razor that took me through 2 or 3 commendable shaves without drawing ANY blood! Perhaps I was being more careful with it due to its reputation. But once you get used to shaving with the handle down to accomodate the blade angle, it is one precise and decisive razor. I would never part with it.
After a long spell with the Slim Adjustable as my go-to razor, followed by heavy rotation of the Slant with some occasional SS shaves mixed in, I did settle on the Jagger as my main squeeze. The downward angle of the Slant makes it hard to get into a couple of tight spaces. The Jagger is quite aggresive with a Feather blade and, with care can deliver a thorough shave even in the old hollows.
But the experience with the Derby's took me for a traumatic whirl and I am currently commited to a week of cartridge shaving to help my face and neck recover from that trauma.
I do find that preparing with an exfoliant pre-shave soap such as Real Shaving's product makes the neck easier to get BB smooth before burn is induced. So I agree with Mantic on that point as well.
I also like their shave cream product and it is my main stay. I have not yet tried the vaunted Proraso, TOBS, Trumper and other expensive creams/soaps but plan to soon.
Where I disagree with Mantic is his assertion that skin stretching is largely unecessary with the DE. He should wait until his jowls are sagging like my old ones and then check it again. I find hold the ear back while shaving ear to chin along the jaw line to be quiet effective. Likewise holding the neck flesh down on the collarbone while shaving upward.
Before going on vacation this month I did procure a smaill tube of Art of Shaving Cream (Lavendar) and it is clearly superior to the able Real Cream. It provides a a voluminous lather and leaves the skin silky smooth.
For a long spell, I also prepped with a dollop of Johnson & Johnson Baby Oil. It smells like cinammon and is dirt cheap compared to other oils.
I tried that clove oil from WalMart that claims to substitute for cream. It is inferior both as a substitute for cream and as a base.
I just ordered some Shark blades from Kilted Shaver and am looking forward to trying those but my guess is that the Feathers are going to be hard to beat in any razor.
Also, I feel that the DE experience has taught me more about how to shave with a cartridge. Not so much pressure, change the blades before they begin to burn and apply a systematic three pass (WTG, XTG, ATG) before touching up.
As far as the cold splash, I always did that. Warm rinse, check for strays, lather and buff to satisfaction and then apply cold water to close the pores. I use Keihl's moisturizer as an after shave balm. Occassionally some Bay Rum splashed with water.
To rinse between passes, cold water works best on cartridges and warm on DE's. The cold water contracts the thin cartridge strips and keeps them tight.
That is what I have learned from B&B. I have also learned that this intense of obsession with shaving is cheap thrill and an esoteric pre-occupation that is not likely to be amusing to spouse and friends, as many of you have also discovered.
I am looking forward to writing more detailed reviews of all my tools when I have earned the stripes to do so.
Thanks for reading (if you got this far) and...
Shave Every Day and You'll Be Nice and Clean!!!
-=mojo
