September is SABREtember! - Shavettes & Barber Razors (1st-30th Sept 23)

[Alum of Potash]

Here are some comparison shots between the Focus R21 with the plastic insert and a similar Focus shavette with a steel insert. Apart from the inserts, the two razors are almost identical. But the stainless steel portion is angled more steeply where it meets with the blade in the steel insert.

Plastic and steel insert models with their inserts removed.

Plastic insert with half of the Lord Super Chrome blade loaded as compared to the metal insert with the other half of the blade loaded. Very difficult to achieve a proper alignment with the blade snapped in half, and there's no way that I wanted to shave with things as they stood there. Note that the plastic insert shrouds the blade corners whereas the steel insert does not.

Switched to a Lord "saloon-style" dedicated half blade for the metal insert. Line up went much easier, as shown with less blade exposure, yet the corners of the blade are still exposed. This was acceptable to me, so I shaved with it to see what the result would be.

 

[Alum of Potash]

19-09-23:

Stirling Sheep (shave soap);
HJM boar w/beech handle (shave brush);
Focus shavette with metal insert and Lord saloon-style half-blade (razor);
Christian Lenart Eau micellaire (astringent/post-shave).

Familiar players surrounding this trial of the Focus shavette with the metal insert. Overall, the shave went well enough, without major mishap. Exposed corner of the blade nicked me very slightly near my left nostril. Made sure that I went up and down, rather than with any sideways motion, with the blade exposed as it was. A couple of mysterious weepers at the base of my neck and one at the top of my chin. Overall, the shave felt tenuous and uncomfortable and did not yield as close and smooth a shave as my last one with the shavette with the plastic housing. Was it an enjoyable shave? Not really, as compared to my previous shave. It did the job, but everything seemed perfunctory. Think I'll load this same saloon-style blade into the shavette with the plastic insert next time to see how things compare.

 

[Chef455]

Shame on me. I've not poked my head in here for a minute. Today's shave-

 

[madmedic]

Wednesday 20th September


Zenith 27mm 50/50 Horse - OSP Orange and Patchouli - Feather AC SR/Feather Pro Super - Pashana Original

A very good result.....but after approx 11 shaves...the blade is past its best

 

[Mitzie]

I went for an early morning cold water lido swim (16C) so I didn't feel like my usual shaving soap/cream wet shave after showering at the complex hence when I got home:

Pre-shave: Ponds Cold Cream rubbed into stubble. Hot flannel/wash cloth pressed onto face (not rubbed). More Ponds applied on top to stubble then I shaved. Razor: Gentleman Barbier french shavette, Blade: Japanese Mashurio 1/2DE. Warm water face cloth wipe and A/S Superdrug Forrest Fresh. 9.5/10

Ponds Cold Cream seems to provide the ultimate in 'cushioning' when used with a shavette, without incurring any nicks or cuts. Also leaves face feeling moisturized. -Marvelous stuff

 

[Goblin]

A couple of mysterious weepers at the base of my neck and one at the top of my chin. Overall, the shave felt tenuous and uncomfortable and did not yield as close and smooth a shave as my last one with the shavette with the plastic housing. Was it an enjoyable shave? Not really, as compared to my previous shave.

I am sorry that you didn't get a good result with it - loaded with the saloon blade it looked like a nice, relatively mild shaver. Maybe that type of blade loading just doesn't work for you. It's a shame, as that is one funky handle!

Ponds Cold Cream seems to provide the ultimate in 'cushioning' when used with a shavette, without incurring any nicks or cuts. Also leaves face feeling moisturized. -Marvelous stuff

Has it always been used for shaving, or is this a recent discovery? I am currently re-watching Mad Men and Ponds is one of their client accounts, but I don't think they mention it as a shaving medium when discussing its benefits!

 

[Mitzie]

I am sorry that you didn't get a good result with it - loaded with the saloon blade it looked like a nice, relatively mild shaver. Maybe that type of blade loading just doesn't work for you. It's a shame, as that is one funky handle!



Has it always been used for shaving, or is this a recent discovery? I am currently re-watching Mad Men and Ponds is one of their client accounts, but I don't think they mention it as a shaving medium when discussing its benefits!

No. Since its invention by an American Pharmacist nearly 200 years ago it's marketed as a skin cleanser and womens make up remover -see the Ponds website. -For me it's their best kept secret for shaving! Ideal for SR and shavette where the blade is wiped, if used for DE, SE or Cart' shaving you need to frequently dip the razor in fairly hot water to stop clogging

 

[Doc Dan]

View attachment 1720425
I went for an early morning cold water lido swim (16C) so I didn't feel like my usual shaving soap/cream wet shave after showering at the complex hence when I got home:

Pre-shave: Ponds Cold Cream rubbed into stubble. Hot flannel/wash cloth pressed onto face (not rubbed). More Ponds applied on top to stubble then I shaved. Razor: Gentleman Barbier french shavette, Blade: Japanese Mashurio 1/2DE. Warm water face cloth wipe and A/S Superdrug Forrest Fresh. 9.5/10

Ponds Cold Cream seems to provide the ultimate in 'cushioning' when used with a shavette, without incurring any nicks or cuts. Also leaves face feeling moisturized. -Marvelous stuff

Ponds and some other face creams and lotions are great for shaving. I used to use these or heavy body lotions when in the field with the Army a long time ago. I have even used Noxema medicated face cream. Very cold. I can say that they all work fantastically and leave the face nice and moisturized. Thanks for the reminder.

In fact, now that I think back on it (I was a medic) I used to recommend a good body lotion or something like Ponds Cold Cream to guys who got irritation or shaving bumps and it really helped them.

 

[Alum of Potash]

View attachment 1720425
I went for an early morning cold water lido swim (16C) so I didn't feel like my usual shaving soap/cream wet shave after showering at the complex hence when I got home:

Pre-shave: Ponds Cold Cream rubbed into stubble. Hot flannel/wash cloth pressed onto face (not rubbed). More Ponds applied on top to stubble then I shaved. Razor: Gentleman Barbier french shavette, Blade: Japanese Mashurio 1/2DE. Warm water face cloth wipe and A/S Superdrug Forrest Fresh. 9.5/10

Ponds Cold Cream seems to provide the ultimate in 'cushioning' when used with a shavette, without incurring any nicks or cuts. Also leaves face feeling moisturized. -Marvelous stuff

Have to say that I've had my eye on one of those Gentleman Barbier shavettes. Only thing that's held me back is the price, and that the blade loading area looks the same as the Parker SR1, which I did not like. But then again, I'm not shaving with Pond's Cold Cream alone and esoteric blades like the Mashiro. Maybe that's the trick...

 

[Alum of Potash]

No. Since its invention by an American Pharmacist nearly 200 years ago it's marketed as a skin cleanser and womens make up remover -see the Ponds website. -For me it's their best kept secret for shaving! Ideal for SR and shavette where the blade is wiped, if used for DE, SE or Cart' shaving you need to frequently dip the razor in fairly hot water to stop clogging

Could you elaborate on your wiping technique with straight razors and shavettes?

 

[Mitzie]

Could you elaborate on your wiping technique with straight razors and shavettes?

Just draw the blade, spine leading keeping the blade flat across a tissue, barber often do it across the palm of their hands

 

[gpjoe]

Kai Klone
ProGuard
Dr Selby
Yaqi synthetic
Avon Spicy

A $6 razor has no business shaving this well. Comfy DFS+

 

[gpjoe]

19-09-23:

Stirling Sheep (shave soap);
HJM boar w/beech handle (shave brush);
Focus shavette with metal insert and Lord saloon-style half-blade (razor);
Christian Lenart Eau micellaire (astringent/post-shave).

View attachment 1720226

Familiar players surrounding this trial of the Focus shavette with the metal insert. Overall, the shave went well enough, without major mishap. Exposed corner of the blade nicked me very slightly near my left nostril. Made sure that I went up and down, rather than with any sideways motion, with the blade exposed as it was. A couple of mysterious weepers at the base of my neck and one at the top of my chin. Overall, the shave felt tenuous and uncomfortable and did not yield as close and smooth a shave as my last one with the shavette with the plastic housing. Was it an enjoyable shave? Not really, as compared to my previous shave. It did the job, but everything seemed perfunctory. Think I'll load this same saloon-style blade into the shavette with the plastic insert next time to see how things compare.

Yeah, those exposed blade corners are treacherous for me too. Got to hairline scars on my left cheek and cut my earlobe using a Parker PTW and a Sedef. I'm not blaming the razor, it's 100% my fault for not paying attention.

Which is why I much prefer the rounded corners of an AC blade:

I'm careless.

Sorry your shave didn't go as planned. I'm guessing with the plastic insert covering the blade corners it will be much better.

 

[gpjoe]

Wednesday 20th September


Zenith 27mm 50/50 Horse - OSP Orange and Patchouli - Feather AC SR/Feather Pro Super - Pashana Original

A very good result.....but after approx 11 shaves...the blade is past its best

Love orange...love patchouli...and until this very moment I was absolutely positive I had enough soap.

If you like patchouli give Stirling Glastonbury a try. Wonderful stuff.

 

[gpjoe]

Very excellent shave today with the AC kami. 48 hours of growth mown down - so satisfying. It wasn't the closest shave, but it doesn't need to be. Just DFS and comfortable.

The re-glued handle remains firm. That was shave number 3 for this blade and, based on the HHT, no further edge deterioration has occurred. I am using the same stuff a lot at the moment as I am testing the AC blade longevity and also trying to get through this tube of Proraso, but it seems to magically replenish itself overnight!

View attachment 1719996

Used mine today. ...and the handle is loose. What did you use to secure yours?

...and is that a Feather Pro Super blade? Looks like it has far more blade exposure than my Kai Klone with a ProGuard.

 

[madmedic]

Love orange...love patchouli...and until this very moment I was absolutely positive I had enough soap.

If you like patchouli give Stirling Glastonbury a try. Wonderful stuff.

I have some somewhere....I must dig it out!

 

[Goblin]

Used mine today. ...and the handle is loose. What did you use to secure yours?

...and is that a Feather Pro Super blade? Looks like it has far more blade exposure than my Kai Klone with a ProGuard.

I used plain old superglue and it worked fine - just blobbed a little bit around the insides of the handle and stuck the tang in. It actually went in further than it had originally been set from the factory - I compared it to my second one (I bought two because they are £6 each I figured "why not") and the repaired handle is about 5mm shorter, and seems firmer. The downside is you cover up a little of the thumb jimping, but ultimately it shaves fine.

The blade is a Schick Proline from Connaughts. Not sure if they are any wider than Feather Pros & Proguards, but they are a less "bitey" blade for me than the Feather Pro, and @Dave himself seems to agree they are smoother than the Feathers. I am considering trying the Pro Super though...I figure more blade exposure should allow for a shallower shave angle. Still have quite a few Schick and Feather Pro to work through before I need to restock anything though.

 

[Alum of Potash]

Just draw the blade, spine leading keeping the blade flat across a tissue, barber often do it across the palm of their hands

Thanks. That's pretty much what I do with straights. Never tried it with a shavette, which I've always rinsed off like a safety razor.

 

[thombrogan]

The blade is a Schick Proline from Connaughts. Not sure if they are any wider than Feather Pros & Proguards

My poor eyesight and priced-to-own ruler once spec’d the Proline P series blades as 8.05mm edge-to-spine versus a solid 8mm for the Kai Captain Titan P!nk Mild blades. The Pro Supers tower over all other AC-format blades at an unreasonably colossal 8.2mm

 

[Doc Dan]

I have some somewhere....I must dig it out!

Your avatar cracks me up every time I see it.