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Scent/Fragrance of the Day - 2013

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EAU DES ÎLES

vintage



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Maître
Parfumeur
et Gantier
 
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I really wasn't sure about this one when I first tried it, but I find that I enjoy it more and more with each wearing. The opening is sweet, warm and frosty at the same time, then it settles down into equal parts spicy herbal incense and sweet creamy vanilla. I couldn't really compare it to anything else I've tried.
 
Memoir Woman
by Amouage


Absynth, cardamom, mandarin orange, pink pepper, wormwood, clove, incense, pepper, jasmine, rose, white flowers, musk, french labdanum, oak moss, styrax, leather

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Just before I apply this I can smell the spicy chypre qualities coming from the bottle. It's a divine smell with obvious fruity notes (mandarin) and spice (clove) with some floral (rose/jasmine) and mossiness (oakmoss). But once it gets on the skin it slowly jams up and becomes not the "leather animalic chypre" it's supposed to be but a spiced fruit syrup mess with a redeeming leather and incense base. Supposedly inspired by The Black Swan and portraying a light and dark side, this succeeds in doing so but not in a way that I would enjoy often. This sounds like I'm bashing it - which, in a way, I am - but this is actually a very glorious cold weather chypre, something performs better than galbanum-ized chypres I prefer in the summer. It reminds me a lot of Chypre Palatin by Parfums MDCI - although they are really nothing alike - because they both have some real density and a whole lot of personality. I think for me if this had a touch more pronounced leather I'd find it nothing short of pure genius but without it I can only say it's wonderful on a day like this. In the right place at the right time, it's the right fragrance.
 
Wow- that's an oldie! 24 Francs for an atomizer with CPUH! When I lived in Paris this would equate to 5 bucks!
 
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