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Newbie Restore Project #2 - from start to finish

Hello,

Today in this thread, I'd like to share with you my second restore project. I snagged a generic "Solingen" 5/8 blade with a barber's notch and went to work on it.

The blade was actually magnetic. I've seen this before but I don't know why they made them this way. Anyone?

Here it is after removing the original scales:

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Scales were selected from the .pdf file available as a link in the restoration sticky here on B&B.
 
I cut out the scales I wanted, then cut 2 strips of 3mm dark grey acrylic for the scales. These are actually transparent, too transparent so I painted the insides later. The scales are stuck together with double sided carpet tape ready for shaping on the grinder.

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I then stick the paper cut-out to the acrylic strips, using a glue stick, to use as a simple visual guide when shaping on the belt grinder:
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The belt grinder is fantastic and only cost about $45. It's not very powerful, but it chews thru acrylic with ease.
 
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The shaping process only takes about 10 minutes.

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I had lit a 30 minute rocky patel vintage 1999 Connecticut cigar, so I did a bit of blade polishing as well :)

I hadn't touched the polishing wheel until going thru several stages of hand sanding. Starting at 180 then, 280, 400, 800 and 1000. I was encouraged to stay away from the polishing wheel for as long as possible by a couple of very experienced B&B members. I got a near mirror polish using the sand paper alone.
 
I found a nice piece of bright white plastic to use as a wedge. The whole thing is temporarily assembled and clamped so the the wedge can be drilled, then glued in place using CA glue (super glue).

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Then on the other side of the grinding machine, the excess plastic is removed on the course stone wheel:

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Then it's back to hand sanding to get the wedge to sit flush with the scales. Notice at this point I have done the pinning at the toe end and the hinge end is taped together:

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Almost done, I do the hinge pins next with brass spacers between blade and scales. The pins are brass and the external washers are stainless steel.

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And that's how I got from this:
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To this:

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I think it turned out better than my first project, but I've still got a lot to learn. Peening and pinning is still the most challenging part for me personally.

And the hand sanding is a question of stamina. It's tempting to go to the polishing wheel too early, but myCarver and another Mark gave me some encouraging advice.

It ended up looking classic black, but it is still slightly transparent, even though I gave the scales a lite sanding and a coat of black paint on the inside.

Regards,

Nick.
 
It still fits in the original box too:

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On the box it says: "Echt Solingen Magnetstahl und feinst hohlgeschliffen" and "Garantie Solingen - No 526".
 
I have a small collection of straight razors that I've picked from the local antique stores in the area and am wanting to do the same thing. I am going to get the "best" one professionally done but the rest are going to be projects. Tell me if I am wrong but it seems the only powered equipment you used was the belt sander and I am assuming that at the end you also used a polishing wheel on the blade and scales but that is not shown. I am curious on how long it took to get to the wheel polishing point on that blade. Very nice work and hope I can get the same result once I get started.
 
I have a small collection of straight razors that I've picked from the local antique stores in the area and am wanting to do the same thing. I am going to get the "best" one professionally done but the rest are going to be projects. Tell me if I am wrong but it seems the only powered equipment you used was the belt sander and I am assuming that at the end you also used a polishing wheel on the blade and scales but that is not shown. I am curious on how long it took to get to the wheel polishing point on that blade. Very nice work and hope I can get the same result once I get started.

Sorry, forgot to post an image of my hillbilly polishing rig. It's an old drill clamped in a vice with spindle for the wheels. The direction of rotation keeps the wheels on, and notice the retro-fitted on/off switch on the cable. There is a steel band around the drill's power button:
 

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. I am curious on how long it took to get to the wheel polishing point on that blade. Very nice work and hope I can get the same result once I get started.

I spent what felt like a looooonnnngggg time hand sanding the blade. I even took it on a romantic weekend with myself and the wife. When me and the wife weren't @@@@ing, I was sanding. I am exaggerating a bit because I'm lazy. I think I sanded the thing for about 10-12 hours spread out over a couple of weeks. I picked it up every now and then and had short 1 sanding session while watching TV. I tried to start at 400 grit but it was so corroded I needed to go down to 180.
 
Nick,
My favorite part was the cigar selection during the restoration. I would have thought that a Churchill would be more appropriate, but in retrospect, you made the right choice.

Curious about why you painted the inside of the scales. Was that an aesthetic choice or done for some practical reason?
 
Beautiful! It makes me want to try a restoration project...

You should. It's not that difficult if you have the tools, and its a great way to chill out. I bought the cheap grinder, sand paper and cloth wheels for the drill. You will of course need a razor to start on and something for the scales and pins. A cheap alternative to a vintage razor could be one of those Chinese Gold Dollars. I have recently ordered 2 for $7.58!
 
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