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My new razor--why does it work?

Yesterday, I posted thread about my first use of the Razorock Wunderbar Slant, about how well it shaves compared to my Muhle 41: just as effective, but much smoother. Using a Feather in each one, the Muhle tugs while the Wunderbar glides. Now I want to know why: is it the slant, and / or the design and fit of the head, i.e., the Wunderbar's tolerances are very tight, and with the top piece torqued down, the blade appears absolutely stable. Does the Muhle have minute blade play? Why does this razor work so well?
 
Maybe the ultra sharp Feather blade is overkill, and is not a good mate for the ultra aggressive Muhle R41?

Muhle has a reputation for close manufacturing tolerances and quality finish.

I would be interested in how a tamer blade, maybe a Persona Lab Blue or a Merkur blade, does in the R41.

BTW Merkur blades get a lot of criticism, but I find they work very well in Merkur and Muhle razors.
 
Having shaved with both, it is the fact that the Wunderbar significantly torques the blade to make it very right (almost like a SE blade). The polished head and the extra weight does add to a more smooth and stable shave.
 
I had the original R.41 - but sold it. I could only do two passes with that razor. Anything more and I would get irritation. However, because my beard grows in so many directions I usually need a four pass shave. With the Wunderbar I had no problems.
 
Yesterday, I posted thread about my first use of the Razorock Wunderbar Slant, about how well it shaves compared to my Muhle 41: just as effective, but much smoother. Using a Feather in each one, the Muhle tugs while the Wunderbar glides. Now I want to know why: is it the slant, and / or the design and fit of the head, i.e., the Wunderbar's tolerances are very tight, and with the top piece torqued down, the blade appears absolutely stable. Does the Muhle have minute blade play? Why does this razor work so well?

I don't have any idea on the why but the Wunderbar has become my go to razor after using the R41 for over two years. It's just a smooth shaver. My favorite blade in it is the German Wilkinson.
 
Good question, but I don't have an answer. @gvw755's points about how wunderbar torques the blade, and the polished head and extra weight, sounds about right though. I tried the 2013 version of the R41 and just never got the hang of it. Today I shaved with my wunderbar loaded with a Feather and got just an unbelievably smooth and close shave.
 
JUST SOME THOUGHTS...

The edges of the untorqued blade in the R41 are 5mm away from the baseplate allowing plenty of blade flap/chatter, especially if you're attacking coarse hair. From pictures of the Wunderbar that distance looks about the same except that the ends of the blade are held in position, and of course the blade is torqued.

We're into the @rabidus "blade rigidity" thing here. When I next use my R41 I'll be using a shim to stiffen the blade up, and if that doesn't do the job well enough it'll be PIFd.
 
I do have coarse hair, and that makes sense. I'd be interested to read how your shim-shave goes.
It'll be a while till I get round to it... but why not give it a shot yourself?

If you do, keep the shim wide. I'd suggest 20mm (so you'll only be cutting 1mm off each edge).
upload_2017-6-7_2-38-44.png

Place it between the baseplate and the blade.

I've used that shim with my iKon Tech (which already holds blades rigid) and it made a noticeable difference.
 
Maybe the ultra sharp Feather blade is overkill, and is not a good mate for the ultra aggressive Muhle R41?

Muhle has a reputation for close manufacturing tolerances and quality finish.

I would be interested in how a tamer blade, maybe a Persona Lab Blue or a Merkur blade, does in the R41.

BTW Merkur blades get a lot of criticism, but I find they work very well in Merkur and Muhle razors.
I've had good luck with Personna Labs in the R41.
 
Having shaved with both, it is the fact that the Wunderbar significantly torques the blade to make it very right (almost like a SE blade). The polished head and the extra weight does add to a more smooth and stable shave.
Maybe the ultra sharp Feather blade is overkill, and is not a good mate for the ultra aggressive Muhle R41?

Muhle has a reputation for close manufacturing tolerances and quality finish.

I would be interested in how a tamer blade, maybe a Persona Lab Blue or a Merkur blade, does in the R41.

BTW Merkur blades get a lot of criticism, but I find they work very well in Merkur and Muhle razors.

This is also my thought. But take my comments with a grain (or more) of salt as I do not get great results with slants.
 
For many beard types, rigidity doesn't matter much. But for a coarse beard, rigidity matters a great deal. When the blade is held rigid, it simply cuts better!

I assume the shim is a small, thin washer?

A shim is a blade with the cutting edges cut off. Refer to post #10.
 
It'll be a while till I get round to it... but why not give it a shot yourself?

If you do, keep the shim wide. I'd suggest 20mm (so you'll only be cutting 1mm off each edge).
View attachment 794956
Place it between the baseplate and the blade.

I've used that shim with my iKon Tech (which already holds blades rigid) and it made a noticeable difference.
I will. What do you use to narrow the blade?
 
I will. What do you use to narrow the blade?
I marked my cutting lines with a pencil and ruler. Then I cut the blade edges off with small metal cutting shears... but any good quality kitchen scissors will do the same job easily.

Make sure your eyes are protected, and that you collect, wrap, and tape up the two very sharp bits of waste before binning them.

Keep us posted. :thumbsup:


EDIT: AN AFTERTHOUGHT
You can always use more shims for more rigidity...
but bear in mind that you'll be increasing the blade gap each time. :devil:
 
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I marked my cutting lines with a pencil and ruler. Then I cut the blade edges off with small metal cutting shears... but any good quality kitchen scissors will do the same job easily.
Good quality scissors may be damaged cutting steel so it may not be so good after cutting a few shims. I prefer tin snips for the job as you suggest. You could also grind down on a honing stone or grind wheel but hold the blade in a locking pliers. Having said all that, one shim will last a very long time.
 
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