I enjoy freehand. On an edge, in good shape it doesnt take long at all. But if I need to cut a new bevel on a blade with unfamiliar dimensions It will take a while.
Knife honing free hand. Why bother?
- Thread starter buca3152
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Restoring an edge on an abused knife (or one with a terrible grind to start with) can take a while freehand, but I've found it's usually worth the effort.
I have had a few that really required power tools though. Grinding a decent shape into a blade sharpened at 30 degrees or more on a side takes a long, long time if the steel is very hard.
This reminds me that I have a cheap yanagiba that I need to fix the factory "edge" on -- visible grinding marks on the apex, will probably take a while.
I have had a few that really required power tools though. Grinding a decent shape into a blade sharpened at 30 degrees or more on a side takes a long, long time if the steel is very hard.
This reminds me that I have a cheap yanagiba that I need to fix the factory "edge" on -- visible grinding marks on the apex, will probably take a while.
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- #63
Update! Recently got a paper wheel for my bench buffer. Had a go at it. Extremely fast method to put a wicked edge on a knife. Did one today. Cut the bevel on a 120 belt(abused knife from a neighbor) went straight to paper.wheel with white compound. Wicked sharp and very fast. I don't think anyone needs one. But I was fascinated by some YouTube videos and had to get one. You can get the same with a leather belt. But that usually requires changing a few belts to refine the progression. This is 120 to finish. Boom! Lol
What do you do if the power goes out? 
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- #65
I would use the frosted glass on the edge of my truck windows then! LolWhat do you do if the power goes out?
Use one of the other knives! Then the power will come back on because you don't need it anymore, lol.
I dislike convex bevels. It seems the bevel becomes more and more obtuse when steeling or touching up on stones.
Honing is my Zen. I love to hone or sharpen anything I can get my hands on. If I run out of things to hone I end up making things to hone. Little wood carving knives and such. It's a point of personal pride to free hand hone. I use Arkansas stones on knives and it may take multiple sessions before I get them where I want them. Hours of pure pleasure. A good playlist, a pile of stones and an adult beverage.....my ultimate relaxation.
Now if I was trying to make money at this I would go to power tools to up profit. Since I don't own any power tools suitable for sharpening, it's just me and the stones. Love it!!!
Now if I was trying to make money at this I would go to power tools to up profit. Since I don't own any power tools suitable for sharpening, it's just me and the stones. Love it!!!
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- #70
+10
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- #72
Diamond hones work wonders on superior stainless steel.
I have an S30V hunting knife that takes a killer edge from a DMT Dual grit. 600/1200
I'm a long time hand honer.
If you need speed you just drop down in grit like anything else. Doesn't matter what steel it is.
I have an S30V hunting knife that takes a killer edge from a DMT Dual grit. 600/1200
I'm a long time hand honer.
If you need speed you just drop down in grit like anything else. Doesn't matter what steel it is.
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- #74
Sure. It can be done with diamond. But if you ding it your in for a long haul. Not criticizing hand honing. But I don't see a reason to. I can bail water with a bucket or use an electric pump. And all.these knives are all sharpened with belts or wheels. Do you think a hand honed blade can have a better edge than a machine honed? Not saying you can't get the same edge. But one won't be better than the other if finished on the same medium.
Why don't you shave with a cartridge razor?
It is faster, more convenient, same edge..... This is why.
I would also think it much more likely to "ding" an edge or alter the temper with a machine.
I have never damaged a knife hand honing and you may never have damaged one with a machine.
You can use the machine, I will hand hone.
Everyone is happy
It is faster, more convenient, same edge..... This is why.
I would also think it much more likely to "ding" an edge or alter the temper with a machine.
I have never damaged a knife hand honing and you may never have damaged one with a machine.
You can use the machine, I will hand hone.
Everyone is happy
I’ve had an edge pro and wicked edge. Both work well, but I got tired of being a slave to the blades geometry. I enjoy hand honing and believe the edges last longer. On average it takes me ~10 minutes to hone one of my EDC’s, whether it’s S30V or VG10. 400x-1k and a few licks on a strop and I’ve got a mean edge that’s ready for work. But as always, to each his own.
A lot depends on the thickness of the blade and hence the width of the bevel. Very wide bevels can be a pain to hone by hand - especially at the bevel setting stage. My solution is to use a belt to do the shaping work then hand hone for the finishing. After the bevel is properly set, touchups by hand don't take much longer than using a belt grinder and I don't have to go out to the garage.
I also advocate for thinning out the blade behind the bevel. I usually shoot for about .010" - .015" right behind the bevel. Sometimes I settle for .025".
I also advocate for thinning out the blade behind the bevel. I usually shoot for about .010" - .015" right behind the bevel. Sometimes I settle for .025".
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- #78
Another advantage of the power tool. What about reprofiling? By hand? Tip work? Hahahah. Sure it can be done. Scandi grind anyone? Lol.
Anytime I've come up against anything really messed up, I turn to a 6" mill bastard file. The file is about 64 Rc and takes care of all the steels I've come across. If that doesn't work I go barbarian with the carborundum's. I don't have much experience with the more exotic steels such as the powdered metals like the CPM's in cutlery. We use lot's of CPM at work and I find it some seriously strange, voodoo stuff to work with compared to D2. I love sharpening challenges!
Damn that’s thin. Got any pics?
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