Injector razor guys I need a little help

[Hoka Hey]

The E-1 has a flat spring and opens up, the E-2 has a round spring with tabs and it doesn't open, and the Gs have a round spring without tabs.

matwho,
Any chance you can identify this one? Still not positive which model it is.

 

[matwho]

matwho,
Any chance you can identify this one? Still not positive which model it is.
View attachment 816970 View attachment 816972

That is an E-2 or E-3, I don't know how to tell the difference. The Gs also have 2 serial numbers and the Es only have one.

 

[Hoka Hey]

That is an E-2 or E-3, I don't know how to tell the difference. The Gs also have 2 serial numbers and the Es only have one.

If I go off this: Schick Injector Razors
I'm guessing it's an E5. No seam in the Bakelite handle. Still some doubt though as it's a Canadian version. Patent info, and no serial #.

 

[matwho]

If I go off this: Schick Injector Razors
I'm guessing it's an E5. No seam in the Bakelite handle. Still some doubt though as it's a Canadian version. Patent info, and no serial #.

It looks like a number under the word patent in your pic.

 

[captnronfl]

The E-1 has a flat spring and opens up, the E-2 has a round spring with tabs and it doesn't open, and the Gs have a round spring without tabs.

I thought all E's opened up but it looks like I was wrong.
I have at least a E-2 and a couple of G's.
I had been looking for an E that opened so I could load some Feather blades etc.
I'm done with that chase now that I have my Focus Dynamic razor about dialed in.
Close one.
I almost felled into another rabbit hole.
I started looking back over my statements.
Holy snot I can't believe how much I have bought in the last six months.
I stopped at $500 for the last statement.
Let me put it this way.
I will be paying off the cards for the next few years even with me selling off some of it.
I don't know what I was thinking.

Thanks Ron

 

[Hoka Hey]

It looks like a number under the word patent in your pic.

Patent (year), 1937.

 

[captnronfl]

It also looks like the right side of the spring where it locks between the tab as been modified.
Ron

 

[matwho]

View attachment 816974
Patent (year), 1937.

Yes I see now.

 

[xxvaleria]

It's almost impossible to tell anything about a Canadian Schick. Some have E-type heads and G-type handles, others are vice-versa. They all have a patent date of 1937 and no patent numbers. All I can say is the black-handled, chromed, Canadian Schick is reported to be perhaps the most aggressive of the Schick razors. I guess they were made for shaving lumberjacks.

 

[Hoka Hey]

It also looks like the right side of the spring where it locks between the tab as been modified.
Ron

It's Canadian, eh? The slight bevel is on the side you would load a blade from. Better clearance? I'm fairly positive it came from the factory that way.

 

[Hoka Hey]

It's almost impossible to tell anything about a Canadian Schick. Some have E-type heads and G-type handles, others are vice-versa. They all have a patent date of 1937 and no patent numbers. All I can say is the black-handled, chromed, Canadian Schick is reported to be perhaps the most aggressive of the Schick razors.

Thanks. I'll keep that in mind. Still need to get some blades for it.

 

[Hoka Hey]

It also looks like the right side of the spring where it locks between the tab as been modified.
Ron

Yes I see now.

It's almost impossible to tell anything about a Canadian Schick. Some have E-type heads and G-type handles, others are vice-versa. They all have a patent date of 1937 and no patent numbers. All I can say is the black-handled, chromed, Canadian Schick is reported to be perhaps the most aggressive of the Schick razors. I guess they were made for shaving lumberjacks.

Thanks for the information guys.

 

[matwho]

Thanks for the information guys.

Your welcome. Get some blades and get a great shave.

 

[Red Rider]

This comparison should help.

 

[captnronfl]

Yes that solves it for me.
Thanks.
I wish I had that info earlier though.
Now that I have decided that I have fallen into the rabbit hole way too far I'm not even going to look.
Well that's the plan anyway.
Ron

 

[chukka]

Ah yes I remember seeing some of these. You can hone them quite a few times, yes. You may be able to use a Star stropping handle to hold the blade, not sure. If it rattles loosely then no, you can't. You can maybe make a stropping handle for the blade out of a piece of stainless steel hydraulic or refrigeration tubing. You will have to saw a slot for the blade and then squash it flat in a vise so the bevel angle will not be too high. Your handle will serve as the bevel guide when honing or stropping. It will always ride on the stone or strop. Never lift it up while the edge is in contact! Very important. Use no more pressure than the weight of your forearm at this stage. If the honing angle is too high then the blade will cut poorly even if the bevel and apex are perfect. You want the bevel angle to be around 18 to 20 degrees for this type blade, I think, but if the steel will support a smaller bevel angle, say 16 degrees, even better. Don't try to use a bevel angle less than 16 degrees. The edge may topple, and the blade will be very unforgiving even if the edge remains rock solid. In other words, it will quickly punish you for mistakes and you will pay in blood. Oh, remember that the honing angle is only half of the bevel angle. The bevel angle includes both sides. You should probably try honing the broken blade first. Gently mute the sharp corner on the edge of your bevel setting stone, first thing. Anyway, set the bevel on a 1k grit stone or sandpaper glued to glass just like you would a straight razor. If you don't know how, see Setting the Bevel with the Burr Method | Badger & Blade.
Then run a progression to 12k stone or 1u lapping film, gradually reducing pressure until you end up finally with only the weight of the razor. If you want to take it to another level, post finish as per How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop | Badger & Blade. Strop on a hanging leather strop. No, not a belt. It wont be flat enough and the draw won't be worth squat. Before resorting to a belt, fold a sheet of newspaper lengthwise again and again until you have a strip 2-1/2" to 3" wide. Pass one end over a towel rod or other horizontal rod shaped object secured to something solid. Pinch both ends together and pull it tight. Now you have a disposable strop. Not nearly as good as hanging leather, but better than your pants belt.

If you are careful, you could try shaving with it but watch out for the corners. Dont forget to mute them on the side of the rock to make them less bloodthirsty. When you are satisfied that you can hone, go ahead and hone your good blade.

thanks for sharing that i have to learn much of honing both for the straight and SE .

 

[User 306]

matwho,
Any chance you can identify this one? Still not positive which model it is.
View attachment 816970 View attachment 816972

Nice Mark!
I'm going to be ordering some of the Schick Twins soon. Do you want me to order some for you?

 

[Hoka Hey]

Nice Mark!
I'm going to be ordering some of the Schick Twins soon. Do you want me to order some for you?

Will they fit an E? Still need to get some "Chicks"

 

[User 306]

Will they fit an E? Still need to get some "Chicks"[/QUOTE
I think I have an E at home and if it is they will fit. Great blade! I'll be in touch my friend!

 

[xxvaleria]

Will they fit an E? Still need to get some "Chicks"

The E heads are a little too tight to easily accept the twin blades. Type L and later were the razors designed to use them. Some gents have used them in Es or Gs or others, but I wouldn't take a chance on springing the heads of my razors.