i have both the pal adjustable and the real schick O , the pal is mild on my face even on 5 setting never get a nick , the schick O give me nicks everyday ( haveńt try it yet with a single blade) . if you want a mild shick get a L1 or something with the same head ( 500 , tennis raquett ect ...)
Injector razor guys I need a little help
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Hobart and Chukka, something is out of whack here. There must be something physically wrong with your razors.
I have the Pal Adjustable and the clone of the Schick Type O.
The Pal Adjustable gives the type of shave you dial in, mild, aggressive, or whatever. The Schick Type O is very mild, milder than the Type L. I can't even imagine getting a cut or a weeper with the Type O.
I have the Pal Adjustable and the clone of the Schick Type O.
The Pal Adjustable gives the type of shave you dial in, mild, aggressive, or whatever. The Schick Type O is very mild, milder than the Type L. I can't even imagine getting a cut or a weeper with the Type O.
For what it's worth, I've got a Schick N1 type and the O clone. In my opinion they both shave in a very similar manner, smooth and close when I use the Japanese Schick Injector II twin blade. It looks to me that the head on both of these is the same. The difference is in the handle with the clone being about 1/2 ounce heavier. I like them both and they have become my everyday shavers. (See my contributions to the SE shave of the day.
ok for the type O he´s mild but the japenese twin blade beleive me they cut , got this set up from only one week and half may be i have to adjust my technique . my pal is mint and not what i call agressive , imo ,i've spend six years with the shicks E1with trimmed feather blade . E2, cobra ,mmoc ,, gillette aristocrat , new 1921 they are agressive but the pal ?
Just as a warning, I've been told that the PALs are not made to accept a twin blade--the heads are too tight. Using a twin in a PAL might distort the head.
thanks for the info , im not so found on the twin blades i'ts just for the type O ,after the use i will stick to normal blades .
The Schick twin blades, in my experience, are marvelous, but only for the razors they were designed for: primarily the Type L, but also the Type N and Type O.
A twin blade in a Type M adjustable injector, I suggest, is redundant, purposeless and wastefully expensive.
A twin blade in a Type M adjustable injector, I suggest, is redundant, purposeless and wastefully expensive.
Thanks for the feedback. I've examined my PAL, and I don't detect and problems.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
That will take a GEM type blade, I believe. In fact it may not take any of the wedge blades.
As a general rule, all of this type razor made after 1912 will accept the GEM type disposable SE blade. The few that don't can be fitted with an improvised wedge blade made from a straight razor.
The company that made that razor is I believe still in business, making rebranded DE blades for retail chains.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
BTW, good luck on your Injector journey. I have had a few E and G types, very nice shavers and dirt cheap. Also a couple of the old magazine type which were a joy to have and to use, apart from having to manually load the magazine with blades. Injectors are way cool, shave good, and deserve to make a comeback. All that is needed is blades that are cheap enough to compete with DE blades.
Funny thing. I've found the Gem's in 3 different stores locally. Injector blades? Nada. Looks like I'll have to get them off Amazon.
Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
FWIW I like the Chinese Schicks. (Chicks)
That applies to both The PAL Adjustable & Injecto-Matic- neither takes a Twin Blade.
the gem blades fits but can slide if not well centered ,it need it's own blade quite rare and hard to find ,i got too of them one new and one broken and older (the script is diferrent), i mind me if i can honing it when it become dull ? by theses times (war) people got only one blade .
Of all the "E's" this E1 has the best balance of aggression and smoothness.
I have what I think are G's with tabs as they don't open up.
I was told they were E's which is why I bought them.
Now I have a collection of G's and no E's.
I was looking for an E but after reading this I think I will stick with the G's and forget about the E's.
Ron
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Slash McCoy
I freehand dog rockets
Ah yes I remember seeing some of these. You can hone them quite a few times, yes. You may be able to use a Star stropping handle to hold the blade, not sure. If it rattles loosely then no, you can't. You can maybe make a stropping handle for the blade out of a piece of stainless steel hydraulic or refrigeration tubing. You will have to saw a slot for the blade and then squash it flat in a vise so the bevel angle will not be too high. Your handle will serve as the bevel guide when honing or stropping. It will always ride on the stone or strop. Never lift it up while the edge is in contact! Very important. Use no more pressure than the weight of your forearm at this stage. If the honing angle is too high then the blade will cut poorly even if the bevel and apex are perfect. You want the bevel angle to be around 18 to 20 degrees for this type blade, I think, but if the steel will support a smaller bevel angle, say 16 degrees, even better. Don't try to use a bevel angle less than 16 degrees. The edge may topple, and the blade will be very unforgiving even if the edge remains rock solid. In other words, it will quickly punish you for mistakes and you will pay in blood. Oh, remember that the honing angle is only half of the bevel angle. The bevel angle includes both sides. You should probably try honing the broken blade first. Gently mute the sharp corner on the edge of your bevel setting stone, first thing. Anyway, set the bevel on a 1k grit stone or sandpaper glued to glass just like you would a straight razor. If you don't know how, see Setting the Bevel with the Burr Method | Badger & Blade.
Then run a progression to 12k stone or 1u lapping film, gradually reducing pressure until you end up finally with only the weight of the razor. If you want to take it to another level, post finish as per How To Use a Pasted Balsa Strop | Badger & Blade. Strop on a hanging leather strop. No, not a belt. It wont be flat enough and the draw won't be worth squat. Before resorting to a belt, fold a sheet of newspaper lengthwise again and again until you have a strip 2-1/2" to 3" wide. Pass one end over a towel rod or other horizontal rod shaped object secured to something solid. Pinch both ends together and pull it tight. Now you have a disposable strop. Not nearly as good as hanging leather, but better than your pants belt.
If you are careful, you could try shaving with it but watch out for the corners. Dont forget to mute them on the side of the rock to make them less bloodthirsty. When you are satisfied that you can hone, go ahead and hone your good blade.
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The E-1 has a flat spring and opens up, the E-2 has a round spring with tabs and it doesn't open, and the Gs have a round spring without tabs.
