How to Cut Thru Marketing Haze

[Shoegazer]

There is no magic answer to post #1.

There is a but, the but is people back in day were happy using Vintage Razors, and Blue Blades.

We did not have many choice, but to use what was available.

This Fourm has many members who use Vintage Razors who happy with results.

Others got to buy and try everything that is new, and hyped as better then anything before.

WRT Gillette Blue blades, like my dad used, and all his male relatives, I can recall as a little kid watching the Gillette Cavalcade of Sports, a boxing series, with my dad and male relatives every Friday night. The association of shaving with a manly sport like boxing was certainly a sign of the times.

Things have changed, you may have noticed...

 

[Eshebert]

This is a great wealth of advice. Thanks!

I checked out the Backroads Gold site and between searching for, buying, shaving with a used Gillette for a while, and if I like it, replating/restoring it, this has tremendous kid appeal for me; it's like putting glasspacks and chrome reverse rims with Baby Moons on your 1955 Chevy!. Truly, very much like "American Graffiti" era stuff.

Let me ask a few more things, if you have the time, please.

My feeling at this point is that brass construction is desirable over Zamac(n). Probably not a big thing, and I suspect that Zamac is widely used on the base plates and doors of butterflies, and maybe on all/most of the movable parts on an adjustable, and that this is probably due to a slight materials cost advantage, but mostly because Zamac may cast with greater ease and precision. This bypasses the need to machine the parts, cutting costs. Do you know anything about this?

Related to this, assuming that I would prefer all (or mostly) brass, if I understand correctly, the Slims and 195s were all )or mostly) brass. Is this correct?

Last subtopic (for now): handle length.

The old Atra 2 that I had from college had a long handle, and this was fine. But I find that I do NOT shave the same way with the little Chinese Vikings Blade razor, at all. I hold it much closer to the head--higher up on the handle. Now my hands are pretty big and if I had a, e.g., 3.5-4.? handle, I believe that I could still grip it high without much interference from the heel/palm of my hand. The reason I say this is that I'm unsure at this time whether I'll settle on holding close to the head, or later wanting to slide back down the handle, like with the old Atra 2. I think not, because with these DE blades, you can hurt yourself (unlike the Atra 2 cartridges), so you want to hold as close to the blade as you can--something parallel to what I think you'd do with a straight razor.

(Does it occur to others here at B&B that part of the fun with a DE over a cartridge is that you *CAN* cut yourself, and so you must pay attention--that there's something at stake here? This seem to spice things up for me. I don't know; I may be deranged...)

Now that's a load, and I don't blame you for just letting all this slide, but please know that any/all advice/observations/opinions are valued, from any'all B&B posters.

On Backroads Gold. One of the first things I did when I started this journey is I find a 59 Fatboy on ebay and sent it straight to Chris. He serviced it and platted it gold. He is a master at his craft and for me it was all about putting rims, tires and speakers in the truck. My kid appeal meter reached 11/10.

The Brass, Zamac question. I have both and SS. I have not noticed any difference. My favorite razor, Muhle R41 is Zamac. I think its like splitting hairs. Zamac will not last as long as brass or SS. All three will outlive me.

You cant go wrong with the classics. My only issue with the Gillette Slim, Fatboy and SS razors is they are TTO. I do not like TTO razors, I have had issues with timing and blade gaps issues. When they are timed, they work great. If you find a razor you like, your only looking at $30 for Chris at BRG to have it functioning perfectly.

The comment or question about taking your time or risk "cutting yourself". That's how it starts for everyone. As you get better with time, you will take your time to enjoy the shave more than anything. It all kind of works itself out.

 

[Shoegazer]

Not especially, although I do have a fondness for cake.

...but, but kids couldn't hurt you, although they tried, tried tried...!

:^)

 

[Happy Jack]

My feeling at this point is that brass construction is desirable over Zamac(n). Probably not a big thing, and I suspect that Zamac is widely used on the base plates and doors of butterflies, and maybe on all/most of the movable parts on an adjustable, and that this is probably due to a slight materials cost advantage, but mostly because Zamac may cast with greater ease and precision. This bypasses the need to machine the parts, cutting costs. Do you know anything about this?

Related to this, assuming that I would prefer all (or mostly) brass, if I understand correctly, the Slims and 195s were all )or mostly) brass. Is this correct?

Modern Zamak is much more stable than early zinc diecast "pot metal" and unlikely to succumb to zinc rot. If older Zamak razors have survived until now then they are also unlikely to succumb. Brass is probably less susceptible to impact damage, but Zamak no longer deserves the bad reputation. I would suggest, though, that it's not well suited to small threads, which is why many Zamak top caps have threaded studs made of a different metal. Zamak is also almost impossible to repair. There's plenty of information on Wikipedia and elsewhere.

There is no Zamac used on Slims or 195s. It first appeared on the Tech top cap in 1962, iirc, but the Tech was very much the budget razor.

 

[Shoegazer]

On Backroads Gold. One of the first things I did when I started this journey is I find a 59 Fatboy on ebay and sent it straight to Chris. He serviced it and platted it gold. He is a master at his craft and for me it was all about putting rims, tires and speakers in the truck. My kid appeal meter reached 11/10.

The Brass, Zamac question. I have both and SS. I have not noticed any difference. My favorite razor, Muhle R41 is Zamac. I think its like splitting hairs. Zamac will not last as long as brass or SS. All three will outlive me.

You cant go wrong with the classics. My only issue with the Gillette Slim, Fatboy and SS razors is they are TTO. I do not like TTO razors, I have had issues with timing and blade gaps issues. When they are timed, they work great. If you find a razor you like, your only looking at $30 for Chris at BRG to have it functioning perfectly.

The comment or question about taking your time or risk "cutting yourself". That's how it starts for everyone. As you get better at time, you will take your time to enjoy the shave more than anything. It all kind of works itself out.

Point by point...

Yes to kid appeal!!!!
!!!
A luxury area that I can afford without upsetting my miserly inner-self.
No kiddin', my comic book hero was not GI Joe, or anyone like that: it was Scrooge McDuck. I thought that Jack Benny was really, really cool...

Good, objective advice on materials, and yep, they'll all outlive me. (BTW, that frank answer is something you'll never find on a lot of shaving sites; it's all Ford vs Chevy puffery. But not here, so far. Straight stuff.)

Yes about misalign. I think my little starter Vikings blade TTO is misaligned from the factory--but what can you you expect from slave child labor in Red China, hey? ;^) I feel like knowing about Backroads is like knowing a really good gunsmith or mechanic--hard to find and very valuable.

The "risk" thing is sorta light-hearted, but at the core, there really is something about having to pay attention because there's something at stake that I really do like. Not sure why, but it's there, for sure.

 

[Rob72]

I'm a known zamak opponent. I've had old & new ( I am suspicious about iKon's "alloy" because of its behavior when the plating wears through). I do not find zamac to be a value. The only razors where its use made manufacturing sense were the slants, prior to 3 axis cnc.

The current zamaks are made for pennies on the dollar, with little hyperbole, and plating quality is a much more significant issue with it.

Does my vintage Pomco, with mint plating, serve well? Sure. But personally, I find it to be similar to an '84 Cadillac with 24k gladiator rims & pink plush dash cover. You can, in fact, polish a turd.

 

[Tirvine]

While I like and have a razor with interchangeable plates, it is a stretch to call it an adjustable. If you want to change gap mid-shave you stop, rinse it, disassemble it, put it back together with the new plate, relather, and begin anew. With a true adjustable you turn the handle to your new, desired setting and keep going.

The Edwin Jagger DE89 is a terrific choice. The Slim. Adjustable is aswell. It is mild and you would be ok spending more, there are a zillion.

There are blades that are very sharp, some would say aggressive, like Feathers, and some that are junk. There are a handful that are sort of Goldilocks, like Personna Lab Blues, Gillette Silver Blues, and Nacets. Try one of these.

As for soaps, they all work, but some are slicker, some smell better, etc. All brushes work, too. Some, especially boar and horse, may take a big to break in. Badger and synthetic are ready to rock and roll right away. Some are stiffer, some are softer, some are scrubbier. Start with whichever sounds best.Get a soap sampler.

For old guy skin, stretching skin and multiple gentle passes can be helpful. I am nudging 75, and I like a wet lather of Martin de Candre with a badger brush and three passes, lathering for each, with, across, and against. I especially stretch under the jaw line.

 

[Shoegazer]

Indeed. All Gillettes up to the early 1960's were exclusively brass in construction, with a variety of platings, nickel, gold, and rhodium.

The Techs began moving away from Brass in 1962, with Zamac top caps being introduced. These have Gillette engraved on them and have deeply "shouldered" sides.

In the mid late 60's there was a more general move away from brass, in the Gillette Slim Twist and the black anodised aluminium handled 84 and 109 Adjustables. The 70's and 80's Super Speeds have a black coated aluminium handle too. The heads were still in the main brass though. The last Adjustable, the Super Adjustable, called the Black Beauty by collectors, had a black plastic baseplate I believe. These are highly desirable.

There are also some interesting plastic Techs made in WW2 for US armed forces. I am on the lookout for this.

Apparently a highly efficient 1- 2 pass shaver. Maybe the most aggressive Tech made. I suppose you need a quick shave when under nebelwerfer fire.

Vintages are such fun!

I prefer the short handle for dexterity. Almost like a pencil, or paintbrush. The ideal length of a razor is 5" or just under for me.

I used the Bic White for a decade or so. they cut good.


One of the nicest analagies on using a vintage I have seen.

You truly get it Sir.

Here is something I've wondered about, and it is the design of 3-piece safety razor heads. Especially the way they "lock" the blade into position.

There are of course several and many more than I'm aware, without doubt. But only three days ago I saw a head design for the Yaqi suite of razor stuff and the design looks to be similar to the English S4.

Yaqi Sentennel:

And here's the S4:

Very similar, seems like.

 

[Badgerstate36]

I personally wouldnt look any farther than a vintage Gillette. Any of the modern razors are just overpriced and sometimes overengineered homages to vintage DE razors, whereas a vintage Gillette is going to be affordable and will likely last you the rest of your life. You dont need a titanium or all-stainless razor.
At the end of the day though, shaving is a very personal thing and what someone likes someone else may not like. It truly is a YMMV kind of thing.
One thing about Viking's Blade that Id offer is that VB does make anything. All they do is rebrand cheap Chinese razors and put theyre name on them. So, I would say that you certainly can do better than VB, even if its a not a terrible razor.

 

[Eshebert]

I also fell for the Viking Blade Amazon propaganda. I will be polite, my only comment is that they are junk and their customer service is terrible.
Amazon would not let me leave negative feedback, so I wont be the last newbie sucker that falls in that trap.

 

[Eshebert]

I personally wouldnt look any farther than a vintage Gillette. Any of the modern razors are just overpriced and sometimes overengineered homages to vintage DE razors, whereas a vintage Gillette is going to be affordable and will likely last you the rest of your life. You dont need a titanium or all-stainless razor.

I don't disagree on the vintage Gillette razors. They may be the best way to start, but I get board so I try new razors, then move on.
The only constant in my rotation since I started are my Fatboy, 34G and the R41, they never disappoint.
I will say, after purchasing a Pearl Flexi a couple months ago, I have grown quite fond of that razor.

 

[Shoegazer]

Thanks. Good advice!

I get to be 75 for about 3 more months. There are two sorta grim, sorta funny quotes from movies about being old that I really like. First, the grim one:

In The Straight Story, a bunch of people are around a camp fire, and most are young folk, 20s-30s. Everyone is drinking and the lone old guy reminisces a bit. One of the young guys asks him:

"What's the worst thing about getting old?"

The old guy (Richard Farnsworth?) thinks a bit and says:

"Remembering being young."

Yeow!

The funny one comes from No Country for Old Men when one older guy comments to another about getting old, and the other guy responds:

"Yeah, but it don't last long."

 

[ivan_101]

While everyone has already given you great advice with some great companies and products mentioned, another not mentioned that DOES use massively annoying marketing hyperbole in their attempt to be cute and innovative, but DOES offer quality products that attempt to recreate historical long defunct company brush and razor products at reasonable prices is Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements.

I know some have a problem with their business practices but I have had nothing but great customer service experiences and prompt shipping. I especially love their creatively colorful $27 ABS plastic monster slant razors (glowing version pictured) which is a reproduction of the German Fasan bakelite slant of the early 20th century.

If you can stomach to read through the hyperbole, you can learn about some long gone companies. PAA version on left, real vintage version on right.

View attachment 1683563 View attachment 1683567

The first ones made of Bakelite might have been a true Fasan reproduction. The new ABS monster ones have been made milder to appeal to the wider masses. A typical marketing trick. Unfortunately I read a comment of a user who has both the early and the new colourful monster razor just on the day I received my El Fantasma. My mistake.

 

[ivan_101]

There is no Zamac used on Slims or 195s. It first appeared on the Tech top cap in 1962, iirc, but the Tech was very much the budget razor.

At least in the beginning of 1961. I have a German made G-1. The very first with the faceted ZAMAK cap though are a batch of Psycho Techs. D-1 (1958). On Achim's site.

 

[Lane101]

I'm very old, but new the the current world of double edged safety razors. I'd like some help in cutting thru the thicket...

I can recall first shaving with my Dad's old butterfly Gillette, and that's what I used until I went away to college in '68. I bought an Atra 2 somewhere around that time, and it's what I used until about 3 weeks ago. I found it increasingly hard to find Atra 2 blades that weren't absolute junk. I was getting very poor shaves after multiple passes. I had seen the ads for "Shave Club!" where they wanted you to pay >$30 per month to shave the "new way", with three, five, SIX blades!

Similarly, I saw multi-blade sets at the grocery store, and this just looked gimmicky as hell to me.

I recalled my Dad's razor, and this seemed the antithesis of all the ads, so I felt that maybe double-edge safety razors were on the outs, keeping a low profile. Boy, was I ever mistaken.

So to just get my feet wet (so to speak) I bought an entry level Vikings Blade butterfly and five blades for $13. Surprisingly, I have enjoyed using it--I actually kinda look forward to shaving now, whereas before it was an unwanted chore. I believe that I like it because you have to THINK a bit; but if you do, I'm convinced that the shave is much closer and much more precise, especially around mustache, etc.

So I've been looking and reading for a solid month, because I intend to indulge myself just a bit. And it's interesting that male shaving is probably the least expensive luxury market you can get into; e.g., it's not like old motorcycles or a gun collection. At the same time I don't want to simply throw money away.

So I'd like to solicit your *opinions* of which brands/distributors seem to be the least inclined to hyperbole, and if you want, which brands/distributors seem the most superficial and inflated.

In case it's not clear what I mean by superficial and inflated, it's what I just saw on a webpage:

View attachment 1683264

It's this sort of dumb pomposity I'm seeking to avoid. There seems to be *A LOT* of it out there. I'd say that Vikings Blade fits into that category, although their entry level kit was good enough to get started.

Thanks for your help!

Welcome to B&B! Like you I shaved with a Gillette Black Beauty during my college days until I was gifted an Norelco rotary. Stayed with Norelcos until over three years ago when I came back to DE. Have found DE enjoyable as it provides a relaxing Zen-like 10 to 15 minutes each day.

This is a very flexible hobby where you can approach it any way you want ranging from using DE as a low cost alternative to cartridge shaving systems to a focus on high end and vintage collectables.

In my case, having fond memories of my under $5 Black Beauty, my view has been that it's not necessary to spend a lot for quality hardware (razors and brushes). For the razor it's all about the weight and geometry of the blade. I've settled on two primary razors a moderately aggressive Weishi Long Handle butterfly (definitely not extremely mild as was my original expectation) and a mild King C. Gillette. Both purchased on-sale for well under $20 and provide excellent shaves. I don't buy the marketing hype from vendors that talks about these as "starter razors". Have seen many posts from those who invested in high end razors only to find the shaving experience was not much different or in some cases worse. Of course many collectable and artisan options here if preferred. If you want to indulge yourself "just a bit" have a look at some of the Razorock options at Italian Barber. Lots of positive reviews from fellow B&Bers on these razors. Also Connaught Shaving (U.K.) is clearing out its Merkur razors.

For brushes I use two synthetics and one boar brush with the latter best for my hardest soaps. The synthetics, a Razorock Monster and Big Bruce are both 26mm plissoft brushes with the same knot. Boar is a Razorock Blondie (rebranded Zenith 80N) with a 26mm knot. For boars often the main difference is often the quality of the handle (e.g. plastic versus wood) with the same know used in either. All of these can be purchases for less than $15 and often for less than $10 on sale. They do a great job loading and building lather and after perusing many brush reviews here I've seen no reason to explore other options. Of course your mileage may vary (YMMV) and personal preferences for natural badger or other premium options may apply here. Lots of collectable options in this area with some brushes running into hundreds of dollars.

Regarding blades this is where YMMV clearly applies based on preferences and your beard characteristics. There are material differences in sharpness (based on the cutting edge hone angle) and smoothness (in part enabled by various coatings). Note that because blades wear by microchipping (recent MIT study) the sharpest blades, like Feather, often are only used by B&B members for 1 or 2 shaves. The narrow cutting edge tip is more susceptible to microchipping during a shave.

For my preferences and beard characteristics I've settled on three brands of blades, Dorco, Astra SP and Derby Extra. All three shave equally well for me with the main difference being that the Dorco blades last the longest delivering 10-12 shaves per blade versus around 4-6 for my Derbys with Astra in-between. Dorco offers three blades, Dorco Primes STP300/301, Stainless ST300/301 and Titan blades. 300 vs 301 denotes a cardboard vs. plastic tuck container - the blades are identical. Primes have a double coating versus the Stainless. Titan is their entry level blade. I use both Primes and Stainless and enjoy both. Note that you want the newer made in Vietnam production.

Starting with blades today the Dorcos likely represent some of the best value options out there with 100 packs ranging from under $6 (ST300) to $10 for the primes.

Regarding shaving soaps and creams (or canned product if you prefer it) my preference is for harder triple-milled shaving soaps. Suggest you read some of the threads on this and decide on your personal preferences. Arko and Razorrock What the Puck are great moderately priced options. My range starts with now discontinued 99 cent Williams Shaving soap, Arko and Razorock What-the-Puck through soaps like Cyril R. Salter, Mitchell's Wool Fat (just reformulated) and Tabac (also reformulated). Lots of premium artisan products and super premium options like Martin de Candre or Saponificio Varesino that can range up to $75+ and are enjoyed by many B&Bers. YMMV clearly applies here so determine what best matches your personal preferences.

Enjoy your DE journey!

 

[Lane101]

This is a great wealth of advice. Thanks!

I checked out the Backroads Gold site and between searching for, buying, shaving with a used Gillette for a while, and if I like it, replating/restoring it, this has tremendous kid appeal for me; it's like putting glasspacks and chrome reverse rims with Baby Moons on your 1955 Chevy!. Truly, very much like "American Graffiti" era stuff.

Let me ask a few more things, if you have the time, please.

My feeling at this point is that brass construction is desirable over Zamac(n). Probably not a big thing, and I suspect that Zamac is widely used on the base plates and doors of butterflies, and maybe on all/most of the movable parts on an adjustable, and that this is probably due to a slight materials cost advantage, but mostly because Zamac may cast with greater ease and precision. This bypasses the need to machine the parts, cutting costs. Do you know anything about this?

Related to this, assuming that I would prefer all (or mostly) brass, if I understand correctly, the Slims and 195s were all )or mostly) brass. Is this correct?

Last subtopic (for now): handle length.

The old Atra 2 that I had from college had a long handle, and this was fine. But I find that I do NOT shave the same way with the little Chinese Vikings Blade razor, at all. I hold it much closer to the head--higher up on the handle. Now my hands are pretty big and if I had a, e.g., 3.5-4.? handle, I believe that I could still grip it high without much interference from the heel/palm of my hand. The reason I say this is that I'm unsure at this time whether I'll settle on holding close to the head, or later wanting to slide back down the handle, like with the old Atra 2. I think not, because with these DE blades, you can hurt yourself (unlike the Atra 2 cartridges), so you want to hold as close to the blade as you can--something parallel to what I think you'd do with a straight razor.

(Does it occur to others here at B&B that part of the fun with a DE over a cartridge is that you *CAN* cut yourself, and so you must pay attention--that there's something at stake here? This seem to spice things up for me. I don't know; I may be deranged...)

Now that's a load, and I don't blame you for just letting all this slide, but please know that any/all advice/observations/opinions are valued, from any'all B&B posters.

Just saw this after my first response. Suggestion would be to buy a Weishi Long Handle (100 mm and one of my two primary razors) that goes for around $15 and play around with it to determine your preferred grip. You might like to keep using and even if you move on to a more premium razor the experience will help you invest in something that will work best for you and could still be used as a travel razor.

 

[Shoegazer]

Though you don't sound too enthusiastic about vintage razors, they are one of the best ways to avoid marketing confusion. Most of the all-brass vintage razors were build to last. There's a proven track record, you know what you are getting, value for money can be extremely good and marketing is minimal.

In new razors, one of the best value for money lines is made by Fatip. These are all-brass razors made in Italy.

Yes, I now can see the light. I am now vedry interested in getting an old Gillette, using it for a while to see how it is, and if it's worth it, tgune it up and replate it.

Thanks!

 

[Shoegazer]

Welcome to B&B! Like you I shaved with a Gillette Black Beauty during my college days until I was gifted an Norelco rotary. Stayed with Norelcos until over three years ago when I came back to DE. Have found DE enjoyable as it provides a relaxing Zen-like 10 to 15 minutes each day.

This is a very flexible hobby where you can approach it any way you want ranging from using DE as a low cost alternative to cartridge shaving systems to a focus on high end and vintage collectables.

In my case, having fond memories of my under $5 Black Beauty, my view has been that it's not necessary to spend a lot for quality hardware (razors and brushes). For the razor it's all about the weight and geometry of the blade. I've settled on two primary razors a moderately aggressive Weishi Long Handle butterfly (definitely not extremely mild as was my original expectation) and a mild King C. Gillette. Both purchased on-sale for well under $20 and provide excellent shaves. I don't buy the marketing hype from vendors that talks about these as "starter razors". Have seen many posts from those who invested in high end razors only to find the shaving experience was not much different or in some cases worse. Of course many collectable and artisan options here if preferred. If you want to indulge yourself "just a bit" have a look at some of the Razorock options at Italian Barber. Lots of positive reviews from fellow B&Bers on these razors. Also Connaught Shaving (U.K.) is clearing out its Merkur razors.

For brushes I use two synthetics and one boar brush with the latter best for my hardest soaps. The synthetics, a Razorock Monster and Big Bruce are both 26mm plissoft brushes with the same knot. Boar is a Razorock Blondie (rebranded Zenith 80N) with a 26mm knot. For boars often the main difference is often the quality of the handle (e.g. plastic versus wood) with the same know used in either. All of these can be purchases for less than $15 and often for less than $10 on sale. They do a great job loading and building lather and after perusing many brush reviews here I've seen no reason to explore other options. Of course your mileage may vary (YMMV) and personal preferences for natural badger or other premium options may apply here. Lots of collectable options in this area with some brushes running into hundreds of dollars.

Regarding blades this is where YMMV clearly applies based on preferences and your beard characteristics. There are material differences in sharpness (based on the cutting edge hone angle) and smoothness (in part enabled by various coatings). Note that because blades wear by microchipping (recent MIT study) the sharpest blades, like Feather, often are only used by B&B members for 1 or 2 shaves. The narrow cutting edge tip is more susceptible to microchipping during a shave.

For my preferences and beard characteristics I've settled on three brands of blades, Dorco, Astra SP and Derby Extra. All three shave equally well for me with the main difference being that the Dorco blades last the longest delivering 10-12 shaves per blade versus around 4-6 for my Derbys with Astra in-between. Dorco offers three blades, Dorco Primes STP300/301, Stainless ST300/301 and Titan blades. 300 vs 301 denotes a cardboard vs. plastic tuck container - the blades are identical. Primes have a double coating versus the Stainless. Titan is their entry level blade. I use both Primes and Stainless and enjoy both. Note that you want the newer made in Vietnam production.

Starting with blades today the Dorcos likely represent some of the best value options out there with 100 packs ranging from under $6 (ST300) to $10 for the primes.

Regarding shaving soaps and creams (or canned product if you prefer it) my preference is for harder triple-milled shaving soaps. Suggest you read some of the threads on this and decide on your personal preferences. Arko and Razorrock What the Puck are great moderately priced options. My range starts with now discontinued 99 cent Williams Shaving soap, Arko and Razorock What-the-Puck through soaps like Cyril R. Salter, Mitchell's Wool Fat (just reformulated) and Tabac (also reformulated). Lots of premium artisan products and super premium options like Martin de Candre or Saponificio Varesino that can range up to $75+ and are enjoyed by many B&Bers. YMMV clearly applies here so determine what best matches your personal preferences.

Enjoy your DE journey!

This attention to value for cost shows a man after my own heart!

Thanks!

 

[Lightcs1776]

Thanks for the excellent in-depth information on the sort of used adjustable I will probably try to find. I plan to use it daily, so I don't want a collectible quality example.

I've spent some time this evening looking on ebay, mostly. What I see is thatof the early 60s examples identified as "Slim", there seem to be a lot of very clean and supposedly functional ones for sale, and what I'm seeing as a weak point is that the butterfly doors, on the outside, many have lost all or most of the plating. To me, this seems cosmetic, but in your opinion, does the loss of chrome plating on the doors affect the razor in any substantive way? E.g., I am not seeing corrosion on the unplated surfaces, so I'm guessing the doors are a zinc alloy.

There is nothing wrong with eBay, but I highly recommend keeping an eye on the Buy Sell Trade (BST) section here. Most members try to be very fair on pricing and accurate in their appraisal of the condition of the razors they selling. I have gotten some good deals on eBay, but I have never been taken for a ride on the BST.

Buy- Sell- Trade

This forum is to Buy, Sell and trade gear in a non commercial way to fellow enthusiasts.

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[Shoegazer]

There is nothing wrong with eBay, but I highly recommend keeping an eye on the Buy Sell Trade (BST) section here. Most members try to be very fair on pricing and accurate in their appraisal of the condition of the razors they selling. I have gotten some good deals on eBay, but I have never been taken for a ride on the BST.

Buy- Sell- Trade

This forum is to Buy, Sell and trade gear in a non commercial way to fellow enthusiasts.

www.badgerandblade.com

Great advice.

Thanks!