Gun Safes: what to buy?

[OkieStubble]

If I am coming for your guns, I'll stop by Harbor Freight and pickup a angle grinder and a stack of cutting wheels. That's like a master key for nearly every safe mentioned in this thread.



At my house, there's no less than 5 angle grinders and 3 reciprocating saws. Maybe I need a safe to keep them in...lol

If you look at the pic of my safe, notice the two, very large and thick hinges on the safe. How long realistically, do you think it would take for an angled grinder to grind thru those hinges?

I’m no angled grinder expert, but I would say it would take a professional thief, who wouldn’t be there in the first place, 20 minutes on the low side and the typical Meth addict, 45 minutes to an hour on the high side? So at least a 30 minute average for stud or stupid thief?

This is why one needs to depend on several different options that will layer and work together to keep our stuff safe.

Beginners who go camping, may take only one single type of means to start a fire. While experienced campers take magnesium sticks or flint, waterproof matches and a Bic lighter? Expert preparer’s might even bring along a bunch of lighter fluid.

If it gets cold, wet, ugly and scary enough when I’m camping, I’ll set the whole damn woods on fire in order to stay warm and survive.

 

[ColtRevolver]

Hinges on a good safe aren't there for security. They are only there to swing the door. The locking bolts provide security.

 

[HDSledge]

Hinges on a good safe aren't there for security. They are only there to swing the door. The locking bolts provide security.

That is an important point since some cheaper safes may not have bolts that extend on both sides. With bolts all around even if they grind off the hinges the door will not budge. I also put a Black Powder warning on the outside of mine. Is there black powder in there? Cut into the door with a torch and find out.
ps. They would never dare break into my house. I have an attack dog, highly trained, dangerous.

 

[OkieStubble]

Hinges on a good safe aren't there for security. They are only there to swing the door. The locking bolts provide security.

So where does a good thief grind at, who doesn’t have a lot of time before the cops get there, and the sides and back of a cheap safe are bolted into a closet with walls that are close on either side?

 

[OkieStubble]

That is an important point since some cheaper safes may not have bolts that extend on both sides. With bolts all around even if they grind off the hinges the door will not budge. I also put a Black Powder warning on the outside of mine. Is there black powder in there? Cut into the door with a torch and find out.
ps. They would never dare break into my house. I have an attack dog, highly trained, dangerous.
View attachment 1644299

That dog looks pretty vicious, but my attack cat will eat your dog.

 

[ColtRevolver]

With the sides blocked and the safe bolted down, I'd probably pull out my reciprocating saw and cut the top open.

YouTube is loaded with videos of people breaching safes with common power tools.

 

[OkieStubble]

With the sides blocked and the safe bolted down, I'd probably pull out my reciprocating saw and cut the top open.

YouTube is loaded with videos of people breaching safes with common power tools.

Sounds like a mission impossible episode. Carry a huge saws all with ya while breaking into a house, not knowing if there is a safe or not. Then setting of the alarm and while it’s blaring in your ears and notifying the police simultaneously, you have to figure out something to stand on in order to get on top of the safe, hoping you don’t need an extension cord to reach a wall outlet for the saws all or the NiCad battery doesn’t run out, all while trying to get out guns before the police arrive. And your good looking mug is recorded while entering and exiting?

Sounds like a job for a skilled professional with a pre-determined plan or map? Smile for the camera!

 

[ColtRevolver]

I believe the original thread was about safes. It got derailed with all the other layers of security. My point is a big box store safe, which really isnt a safe, can be opened with a few cheap power tools, if someone wants your stuff.

 

[OkieStubble]

I believe the original thread was about safes. It got derailed with all the other layers of security. My point is a big box store safe, which really isnt a safe, can be opened with a few cheap power tools, if someone wants your stuff.

I agree with you about the OP being about safes. But until someone, anyone, which includes you my good friend, lists the brands, models and actual prices, of a; as you say, “a real safe” I will respectfully disagree with you about layering security as a derailment. I’ve had a very expensive Liberty brand safe and the safe I have now. They both are fireproof safes with securely built locks and solid doors. But neither of them have 1/4 thick sides, tops and backs; and neither of them are thin metal cabinets either.

So unless you are willing to do what no one in this thread has done yet, of informing us of the names and models of these real safes with 1/4 steel sides, tops and backs? And how much would these go for?

Cuz talking about them and not listing them is as much of a thread derailment imo, as you saying having a layered security plan is?

Please tell me of this safe that you have in mind that is impenetrable?

I want one….

 

[ColtRevolver]

I don't have a list of impenetrable safes. The OP asked about safes, but described a RSC. My advice to him is to study up on the differences.

 

[simon1]

That dog looks pretty vicious, but my attack cat will eat your dog.

View attachment 1644311

I'll see your "attack cat" and raise you a REAL attack cat...not a plastic knock off.

May I present....Grandma!!!

 

[OkieStubble]

I'll see your "attack cat" and raise you a REAL attack cat...not a plastic knock off.

May I present....Grandma!!!

View attachment 1644369

She looks pretty scary!

 

[OkieStubble]

Anything in particular I should look for/avoid?

Thanks.

I don't have a list of impenetrable safes. The OP asked about safes,

I agree. And the layered security plan to help protect the 99.99 % of the safes that are reasonably priced and meant for residential homes that he is going to come across?

The details I mentioned is going to be helpful. Why? Because as he said in his quote, he needs to avoid all of them if he isn’t going to have a layered security plan.

However, if he plans on having a layered security plan which will slow down a thief, then any of the 99.9% of brands are all viable options.

Hypothetically speaking, if someone did list here a safe with 1/4 steel and costs thousands of dollars? I would still dare to say, without a layered security plan, they will have all the time in the world to even get into that one.

No sir, not a thread derailment, but instead, very pertinent information. Thanks for your helpful advice though? Very much appreciated.

 

[OkieStubble]

Here is a link that shows the different gauges of steel. It shows that for the average residential homeowner, 10-12 gauge steel is adequate. It also states,

“Most burglars will move-on just at the site of a steel gun safe, but a more sophisticated burglar may have the tools & time to break into a safe. For most people and situations, a 10 - 12 gauge steel safe may be enough security”

If they don’t have the time? Because of a layered security plan? 10-12 gauge steel may be enough. Is it a coincidence, that brands like Liberty all the way down to Winchester, have 10-12 gauge steel listed in their specs?

I dunno…

What gauge of steel should my gun safe have?

guardiansafeandvault.com

 

[ctr]

6. But aren’t they all vulnerable? If a burglar, has the right tools? And plenty of time?



B. Not allowing them 30 minutes to use tools that they probably won’t bring in the first place? What burglar brings heavy duty cuttings tools, when they don’t even know you have a safe?

C. Just don’t allow them access to use your own tools against you? And even if they had your tools, they still wouldn’t have time to cut into it if the police are coming?

These points are important. Getting tired of the same old tribe about metals, time to break in, etc. not to mention the ridiculous videos.

Worth Noting

1. Professional thieves are unlikely to come to my home.
2. Professional thieves are unlikely to come to your home.
3. Our prized possessions are crap.
4. That 10k special firearm? Crap.

Sorry if that hurts anyone's feelings. Well no, not really. Truth hurts.

 

[Hopalong]

I agree with you about the OP being about safes. But until someone, anyone, which includes you my good friend, lists the brands, models and actual prices, of a; as you say, “a real safe” I will respectfully disagree with you about layering security as a derailment. I’ve had a very expensive Liberty brand safe and the safe I have now. They both are fireproof safes with securely built locks and solid doors. But neither of them have 1/4 thick sides, tops and backs; and neither of them are thin metal cabinets either.

So unless you are willing to do what no one in this thread has done yet, of informing us of the names and models of these real safes with 1/4 steel sides, tops and backs? And how much would these go for?

Cuz talking about them and not listing them is as much of a thread derailment imo, as you saying having a layered security plan is?

Please tell me of this safe that you have in mind that is impenetrable?

I want one….

Sturdysafe.com Basic safe has. 3/8” steel plate door and 4 gauge walls. You can go up from there. 4 gauge is essentially 1/4”.
I don’t see anyone getting in with hand tools except maybe @ColtRevolver on meth.

 

[OkieStubble]

These points are important. Getting tired of the same old tribe about metals, time to break in, etc. not to mention the ridiculous videos.

Worth Noting

1. Professional thieves are unlikely to come to my home.
2. Professional thieves are unlikely to come to your home.
3. Our prized possessions are crap.
4. That 10k special firearm? Crap.

Sorry if that hurts anyone's feelings. Well no, not really. Truth hurts.

Numbers #3 and #4 *cough* really hurt *cough*.

 

[OkieStubble]

Sturdysafe.com Basic safe has. 3/8” steel plate door and 4 gauge walls. You can go up from there. 4 gauge is essentially 1/4”.
I don’t see anyone getting in with hand tools except maybe @ColtRevolver on meth.

Thanks Hoppy! About time someone finally posted one of those monsters!

$4,000! *cough* sniffle and #*%@$&!!!.

Excuse my language.

For that kinda money, I can hire armed guards!

I wouldn’t need that expensive safe if I just paid less for a layered security system. Just sayin.

 

[Hopalong]

Thanks Hoppy! About time someone finally posted one of those monsters!

$4,000! *cough* sniffle and #*%@$&!!!.

Excuse my language.

For that kinda money, I can hire armed guards!

I wouldn’t need that expensive safe if I just paid less for a layered security system. Just sayin.

Agreed, it’s all about the layering

 

[Lightcs1776]

No way to be perfectly secure these days. A safe is better than nothing. A safe slows down a burglar but then they know you have one. I would be on high alert probably forever after a break in that the perp would come back and try to force me or my wife to open it.

My thought is that if the thief were to see a gun safe and make it back out of the house, he or she would be reluctant to come back unless they were certain the house was empty. Otherwise they would likely correctly assume the house is not a soft target.