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Long range shooting

Eben Stone

Staff member
25 years ago, when I was in basic training, I had no problems hitting the silhouettes at 327 yards with iron sights. More recently I've been enjoying going out to the desert with my nephew and plinking at junk with his .308. My eyesight isn't what it used to be, and I have no idea what range were shooting at, but it has a scope so that obviously helps. The problem I have with the .308 is the recoil, it makes it impossible for me to see where the bullets are landing.

So, that brings me to my point...

I want a rifle and optics that will wont hold me back when attempting to hit man sized targets at 1000 yards. And, I want to see where I'm hitting at through the scope, if that's even possible, so low recoil is preferred. Whether or not I can actually hit anything at that distance is my problem, I just don't want the rifle to get in my way. This is for entertainment, not competition. My budget is around $2000. The price of the ammo is definitely a concern. .338 lapua is, in my opinion, too expensive per round to plink at junk.

Here's what I've mulling over at the moment:

barrel: 24" or longer, floating and/or heavy, and stainless, nitride, or chome.
caliber: .224 valk or 6.5 creed

I need suggestions on what to get. Brand, trigger, barrel type/length, caliber, optics, etc.

I've heard nothing but great things about .224 valk, but my local Turner's doesn't carry anything in that caliber, so I would have to custom order it. That's not a deal breaker, but I would really like to hold the rifle in my hands before purchasing it to get a feel of its ergonomics and weight.

I looked at a Howa a few months ago, but didn't buy it, because the bolt handle is way too close to the scope. I would end up smashing my fingers/knuckles into the scope when loading. Maybe 1/2" clearance. Raising the scope to get clearance for the bolt handle seems like going in the wrong direction. Maybe they were paired together as a marketing gimmick. I definitely could use some advice on how to pair the optics with the rifle.

Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
300WM suppressed w/a NF ATACR 5-25x56 scope. You can see impacts at 1K because the recoil is tamed enough shooting suppressed; otherwise no dice even with a LB brake. You can actually take the 300WM out a little further if needed before it really starts dropping off fast. Both .308 and 30-06 will get it done under the right wind, altitude, and temperature conditions.
 
If it's 'just' to 1k a 308 is still good, or 6.5 creedmore or 260 is a bit better for paper. Imo Howa then Tikka then Sako in price and value. Bergara(sp) has been well received so look at them as well. Optics , swfa had deals and good stuff, then athlon vortex etc. My old go to was Snipershide. Still sign on there but don't hang out anymore like I do here for info. Make it interesting and get surplus Swiss k31 and scope if you reload. It's another rabbit hole. I have an unfired Accuracy International ae mk 3 in 308 w can put up with a pretty good scope waiting for when I can enjoy the range again.
 

nortac

"Can't Raise an Eyebrow"
Do you reload? Ammo availability may be an issue, much less cost. In most places, 6.5 mm Creedmoor is probably the most available, since it is a popular hunting round. The 6 mm Creedmoor is gaining popularity. Is terminal performance an issue? I don't know enough about the .224 Valkerye performance at 1K to compare it to the CMs.
 
Got nothing to add but I gave up the powered rifles when I gave up shotgun. Shoulder won't take the recoil anymore. Have to be careful even with 5.56. Too much shooting will leave the shoulder stiff and painful for days. Truth be told I get as much enjoyment from the bolt 22 these days. No recoil so that is a plus.
 

nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
So I'm going to go with some observations regarding "long range" shooting and take from it what you will. My long range gun is a 6.5CM AR-10 patern gun with a Vortex Viper PST Gen 2 5-25x50. My "ELR" gun is a Savage 110 Elite Precision in .338LM with an Athon Eres Gen2 4.5-30x56. I have connected at 1700 yards with the big boomer and 1000 with the little gun. Recoil sucks and I won't argue that but there are 2 things that will help with mitigating the bite. As easy as it is to type it learning to load into the rifle is HUGE and tricker than it sounds to learn. The other important thing is natural point of aim. You should be able to set your rifle down, drop into position eyes closed, and when you open them be exactly where you should be to open your shooting eye and be on target. Sounds over exagerated but squirming around on the rifle trying to get behind it causes weird body postions that cause the rifle to beat on the shoulder. Odd things like butt plate cant, being able to move the cheek rest left and right as well as cant it all help with reducing felt recoil. It's why I went with the 110EP. The MDT ACC chassis has obscene amounts of adjustment. To relate an ah ha moment... I had the rifle fitting pretty well but something wasn't quite right. An experienced ELR shooter mentioned that I had the butt plate set way to low. So I moved it way up! As in the top of recoil pad was about 1" higher that the cheek rest. Huge improvement! His next tip had me a bit leery but I tried it. He said to get the rifle out of the "pocket" and more towards the centerline of my body. I was sure, SURE I tell you, that is was going to be the darkest, blackest pain I had ever expereinced when I squeezed the trigger but I was wrong. Getting on a solid part of the body and out the "squishy" parts (where the shoulder bolts to the rest of my frame :lol: ) was a game changer as well. Now I'm not saying go out and get a .375 Cheytac because you can make the hurt go away (my .338 weighs 28 pounds and that helps too!)but there are lots of things that you can adjust that will help! Back to the caliber thing you asked about... If I was going to build a smaller long range rifle I would seriously look at the 224 Valkyrie! It's a "dead" cartridge (Federal and Horandy still have factory offering) but with 88gr ELD-Ms you have 2675 FPS (That is VERY close to the 6.5CMs spped)) and is suprisingly wind resistant. It has a G7 of .274 versus the 6.5CM 140gr at .326. Shoots almost as flat as well. At 500 yards the 140gr has 43.2" of drop and the little Valk has 47.4". 1400 yards hits are not unheard of with the little zipper!
 
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nikonNUT

The "Peter Hathaway Capstick" of small game
@Eben Stone To expound on some of the other questions you asked... "My" envisioned .224 Valk would rock a 26" medium Palma contour barrel (Most likely a 1:6.5 twist but this will vary based on bullet type and weight) on a Zermatt Origin action ($1700.00 for both) since they use a remage style barrel. As such they head space with a barrel nut like a savage. Prefits are da bomb for spinning a new barrel on with minimun fuss. A Trigger Tech Diamond 2-stage trigger (About $300.00), something like a Kinetic Research Group Bravo chassis (lots of adjustabilty and add ons!) for $359.00. As for glass, you don't need a bazillon power scope to shoot 1000 yards but clarity and a useable reticle are crucial! FFP too if you can! Makes weaponized math much easier! Money not an issue? A ZCO 4-20x56 with an MPCT 2 reticle or a Nightforce ATAC-R 4-20x56 with the Mil-XT reticle. Too much? Love my Ares Gen BTR Gen II APRS5 MiL (I like mRad) for about 900.00. I would clamp the glass down with some American Rifle Company M-ARC rings ($200.00) End of the day it would be a great target gun and could do the deed on a hog or 'yote with the quickness! All in minus glass would be about 2259.00 + shippings and with the Ares a tad north of 3100.00-ish if you don't enlist the services of a gunsmith (Barrel would already be attached annd headspaced) . Pricey? Sorta. But you are one very small step below a top tier full custom and it should be a tack driver! Consider a Savage 110EP MSRPs at $1999.00 (I do love mine) and I know which way I would go!
 
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I am going to offer my opinion, so please take that for what it's worth.

If I was looking for a 1000 yard junk shooter I'd honestly just go with a .223.

Why? .223 is light kicking, easy to find right now because it can be used in AR's, cheap, has cheap plinking loads to match loads to hunting loads, and from the sound of it you aren't going out with a caliper to measure your groups.

1000 yards is long poke for that small and light of a bullet, but your shooting junk, not a competition.

As for rifles? There's the Ruger American predator, the savage axis, and plenty others, and that leaves you with a healthy budget for a good, quality scope. Vortex makes some pretty decent scopes too, and you can add a bipod to a the sling swivel of the predator to help stabilize things. That should make a for a sub $2000 rig, so you have some left over to add a different stock or put in a better trigger, etc.

The Ruger American or the savage axis should be available at most sporting goods stores too, so you can see one in person.

Sure the 6.5 creedmoor or the .224 Valkyrie will be more accurate and better ballistics at that distance, but it's hard to beat the economics of .223 for shooting junk.
 
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Eben Stone

Staff member
So I just got back from a gun show. There were 3 ammo vendors there selling in bulk. Only one had .224 valk and they only had about 10 boxes (that was visible). They had full pallets of other rifle ammo, such as .223 and .308. I complained that 224 must not be very popular, and the guy behind the counter corrected me saying its extremely popular, but the demand outweighs the supply right now. Another vendor said I should be able to find 224 at any outdoorsman store that sells ammo. So I need to make a decision: 224 and deal with potential supply issues and lack of variety, or something more popular.

Just a few ideas I'm considering:

Remington 700 6.5 creed 24" barrel ($600)
Browning X-Bolt 6.5 creed 26" barrel ($1200)
Savage 110 6.5 creed (or .224 valk if I can find it) 24" barrel ($650)
AR-15 upper receiver (complete unit) .224 valk 24" barrel ($550)

I'm actually leaning towards the custom AR. Not idea for long range shooting, but I want an AR anyways, and I would be able to experiment and gain some familiarity with the round, and determine if its worth investing in something better. I wouldn't have any regrets owning an AR in 224.

Decisions... Decisions...
 
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I'm actually leaning towards the custom AR. Not idea for long range shooting, but I want an AR anyways, and I would be able to experiment and gain some familiarity with the round, and determine if its worth investing in something better. I wouldn't have any regrets owning an AR in 224.

Decisions... Decisions...
Your words, not mine :cool:
 

nortac

"Can't Raise an Eyebrow"
Depending on what other uses you anticipate for your AR, you may want to upgrade the stock as well. Some of the popular light weight collapsible stocks are not optimal for getting a good repeatable cheek weld needed for use with scopes. Some do just fine. YMMV.
 

Esox

I didnt know
Staff member
Personally, I'd look at something in .25 caliber. The 25-06 is a great round with mild recoil, barely noticeable in some rifles. I shot a laminated Ruger Target rifle in 25-06 quite a bit and it barely bounced on the sandbags. The Savage M12 I think is the more accurate rifle though.

When shooting at extended ranges, fast, flat shooting calibers make it a lot easier. .224 bullets, while fine for plinking, dont carry much energy when you start to reach out. I was loading 52 grain Nosler Match bullets for my Savage 110 .22-250 single shot at 3850fps avg. Shooting at 500+ I couldnt see any impacts and the bullets, while being hollow points, didnt even exit on woodchucks. Steeping up to .25 and 6.5 calibers, impacts were easy to see, even in a hay field.

I also shot my Sako AIII Deluxe .270 at 700+ often with 130 grain Nosler Ballistic tips at 3517fps avg. Recoil was more noticeable but it is a field rifle not a target rifle. In a rifle with more weight it would be very similar to the 25-06 while giving higher velocities with a heavier bullet. I loaded Sierra 90 grain hollow point varmint bullets for it too but that barrel doesnt like them. Velocities however were over 3800fps.

None of that is of much use in an AR type platform though.
 
I toyed with a 7mm-08AI for a while before actually going back to the regular 7mm-08. It's my "everything caliber" now -- gongs and deer. I still shoot 5.56 at range as well (800, but not to 1k). Where I love now, finding a range that long is difficult, so I am perfectly happy with these two.
 
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