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GEM Razors?

REALLY wanting to explore GEM razors, esp. the Blackbird Sabre. How do GEM razors shave relative to Artist Club and injectors? Is there something unique and special about them?
 

garyg

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The GEM style SE is different than the others. It is stiff like a Schick, but sharper I feel, but less so than a DE. I never used one growing up and when I first tried one at an advanced age it didn't work. But I picked it up after a while & it worked with an adjustment to the blade angle. You might want to try a vintage one before investing in the expensive modern versions - you could probably get 10 excellent examples for the cost of that Sabre ..

I prefer the narrower blades - the Injector, the GEM and the DEs all get regular workouts here. Not so much the ultra wide hair shaper format of the Artist Club ilk, though I do pick one up occasionally.

I haven't tried every razor, but have gone through the formats. I'd still suggest trying an inexpensive vintage GEM first.

Good luck -
 
GEM razors are very rigid and you can get a very close shave with them. The angle required is a bit different from what you may be used to. The size of the head is somewhat large, making it a tight fit in the mustache area. You can work around that, though.

My favorites are the vintage GEM Micromatic Clog-Pruf and the Junior with Bakelite handle. I also like the Push-Button pretty well. Vintage GEMs can be found in good shape for little money.
 
GEMs require learning a very different shaving angle. I tried one years ago and didn't quite get the hang of it, but I might try again this year.

I really like the AC SE blade razors - I had a Vector for a long time - but those ultimately proved too aggressive for me. It would be great if I only shaved every other day or so, but as a daily shaver it just provided too many weepers on a certain spot on my chin.
 
I've used two modern GEM razors (for head shaves): Blackland Sabre and Ti Shield Predator.

Got the Predator first, on sale from Bullgoose. The shaves are fantastic, so good that I'm thinking of selling my Vector, but the machining is just average (my Shielld Stomper has a much nicer finish)...

...which was my motivation for buying a Sabre. In comparison, the Sabre is impeccably finished.

Using the the Sabre, I found the L1 plate far too inefficient compared to the Predator and the L2 far more agressive, and quickly sold the Sabre.

Short answer:

My favorite modern GEM razor is the Ti Shield Stomper.
 
Compared to AC, here are the Pros and Cons of GEM blades/razors. Note that a couple of attributes are in both categories because it depends on your style and preferences.

GEM Pros:
  • Narrower than AC
    • About the same cutting edge length as a DE blade
  • Very long-lasting
    • Easily 10+ shaves and some users get 20+ out a GEM blade
  • Few choices for GEM blades
    • No analysis paralysis or need to try every blade in the world. GEM blade choice is pretty much one and done.
GEM Cons:
  • Overall larger than AC
    • Sabre head profile helps reduce bulk, but it's still bigger on the whole than AC
  • Few choices for GEM blades
    • If you don't along with a GEM blade, you're kind of out of luck
  • Initially harsh
    • GEMs are notorious for the first shave being the worst. They get a lot smoother after a couple of shaves so some people strop the blade against their palm to simulate that first shave
 
Gem razors have the propensity to be very aggressive, if you don't ride the cap, as you're supposed to. They are very good, efficient shavers as others have stated. I like the 1912s a bit more than the MMOCs, but that an entirely personal bias.

I held out on the Sabre for a long time, but picked one up recently. I have Gems, Wilkinson Sword, CV Heljestrand, the Superman and a few other vintage models. I picked up a Shield awhile back, and have had a PAA Starling for a few years.

Hands down, the Sabre is smoother and as efficient as any of the others. If you want a premium modern Gem razor, the Sabre is pretty much "It".

Injectors: highly efficient, so user-friendly they are an utterly mindless shave. If I just wanted a daily driver which required virtually no thought to technique, I would get a classic Schick. I mech prefer my Asylum injector to as it provides more blade feel and is fairly exfoliating.

AC: pretty much any of the offerings will give a respectable shave. Asylum RX V1 is easily the most aggressive. V2 (currently out) is a step down, but still toothy. A personal favorite, that not everyone likes, is Occam's Oren. The free floating blade takes some getting used to in loading, but provides an incredibly mild, yet brilliantly efficient, shave (for me).
 
I have only one AC razor I enjoy: The General Colonial. I have many GEM razors that give me great shaves. The Micromatic Clog Pruf is probably my favorite, but I love my lather catchers, the Sabre L2 is awseome the ATT GEM is even good if hard to assemble.
 
What are some other options for modern GEM razors? I have a micromatic open comb on the way now, and if I like it I may eventually try the Sabre (curious about version 2 coming next year). But aside from the Sabre, what other "modern" options are even available? Someone mentioned a Shield Predator, which seems to be unavailable.
 
I love gems.


If I could only keep ONE razor, it would be my sabre L2. It just has a different vibe. Shaves efficiently. Good blade feel. Never feels dangerous though.

The vintage gems aren’t too shabby either.
 
What are some other options for modern GEM razors? I have a micromatic open comb on the way now, and if I like it I may eventually try the Sabre (curious about version 2 coming next year). But aside from the Sabre, what other "modern" options are even available? Someone mentioned a Shield Predator, which seems to be unavailable.
They're still available but not called Predator. You have to go to AliExpress and lookup the Shield Store. I see there's a sandblasted version and cerakoted black models. You have to watch out though because there's razor parts which you can piece together or complete models with stands, GEM1S - GEM5S. The only difference being the handle that's included.

Doing some extra digging I also came up with aluminum Shield GEM razors. So they're around if you're interested.
 
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GEMs are my format of choice. I simply prefer the feel of the blade over AC and the narrow width of the blades. The rigidity of the blades is probably the biggest reason. And GEMs razors especially vintage look so darn interesting and cool.

Wolfman, Atelier Durdan and Blackland make great modern GEM razors -- though you don't need to spend that much but I do find the modern CNC milled razors more comfortable than some of my vintage GEMs. I still love using Micromatics, Natural Angles, Featherweights and Streamlines, etc.

The Micromatic is not aggressive when used correctly.

I don't find the blades harsh on the first use. Certainly no more than an AC blade. I do palm strop a brand new blade.
 
REALLY wanting to explore GEM razors, esp. the Blackbird Sabre. How do GEM razors shave relative to Artist Club and injectors? Is there something unique and special about them?
They are their own thing, like DE razors, artist clubs, and injectors. Unique? Yes. Special? In this context, I don't know what that could mean. You cannot describe the difference between a GEM razor and the others, you have to experience it yourself because it *is* its own thing. Very much worth the try, IMO. I shave regularly with DE, AC, and GEM. I probably always will. I do, however, stick with one razor for each format.

A vintage micromatic will tell you whether you are a GEM person or not. I would suggest an OC or Clogpruf. After you get through two or three blades, you will know. If you do go straight to Blackland, I would strongly suggest just getting the L2. Just my opinion.
 
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