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Yep, forgot the alum, I have a block. fortunately I don't remeber the last time I used it. Kitchen knives and razors. Both need sharpening. both have different techiniques. Kitchen knives will never need a > 10K grit stone. You also won't shave with kitchen knives, the edge geometry is so much different. Razors are honed flat on the stones. Some including me, use a layer of tape to mitigate spine wear. Kitchen knives use an entirely different (30 degree?) angle. After sharpening razors, I find it challenging to go back to sharpening knives, but that s just me. If you have a blade that needs a bevel established, I recommend you start at 1K grit. From there, 4K, 8K, Coticule, JNAT, or 12k to finish. Regarding acquisition of the stones, as the grit increases so does the price. I've done this for about 20 plus years and I got the stones as I progressed just to learn and rely on my own skills to keep my blades sharp. I'm no expert, but I can find and hone my own blades. There is some satisfaction in that. Everyone has their own techniques and goals. It is not my intent to overload you with info, but you asked! Cheers..
Please, bring on the info, its everything I’m asking for!

I wholeheartedly share a similar feeling about the intent in learning to hone. It’s definitely a higher upfront cost when it comes to the material, but one that I’ll be prepared to make when I’m ready to cross that bridge. I actually wanted to hone my straight edge myself, but Reddit planted a seed of fear in getting it done the first time at least by a professional so I know what it’s supposed to feel like and I agree.

And with regards to your last post, would you happen to have any insight into replacing scales? The one I bought feels a little too extravagant for my taste to be honest so I’m debating if at some point I may want to replace the scale by a professional if they are out there.
 
F

firebox

Ok. Scales? I have one blade I had someone else replace the scales. I bought the camel bones scales on ebay sent them with the blade to be replaced. The person I sent them to had a better skilset than me. I tried and didn't like my result. The razor " a 'Challenge' blade (1890's) came back perfectly for $25. I had $45 in the entire project. Challenge is not an exqusite blade but this one is a realy good 7/8 blade with a good feel to the blade. I tell you this because I usually will not buy a blade I have to replace scales on because there are many that don't need it. However, it is a personal thing If you want a particular look or feel. I'd say don't spend money on a blade you're not sure you like. I will also say you are right. You must have a blade you know is sharpened properly so that when given good prep you know what a good blade can deliver. There might be a trust factor there to ensure your blade is properly honed. If you don't know what a good blade can do, how can you ever know your own efforts are satisfactory? When dealing in razors' 'shave ready' for one may not be shave ready. I can unequivacably say a sharp straight razor is a joy to to use!
 
Amen. And I guess in all my excitement of finally pulling the trigger, the one I chose was most appealing to me. But after seeing it in person, I'm not head over heels for it. Since it is my first blade though, I have no qualms with doing some slight modifications that'll improve my overall feeling about it.
 
My one and only tip would be to have patience. You'll likely cut yourself up tomorrow. Or the day after tomorrow...

Allow yourself some weeks or even months to learn. Muscle memory is the key. Once your hands (and eyes) are trained well enough, you will find that even straight razor shaving will become a sort of 'semi autopilot' thing. You just do it without thinking about it. Just like driving a car. Once you reach that point, you're there and it will be smooth sailing thereafter.
 
F

firebox

Yes, there is a learning curve. Not steep and not long. I haven't had a nick in quite a while. When I had them in the past it was when I got distracted. Your styptic pencil can be your friend starting out. The alum block I have now, is the same one I got when I started this adventure. Witchhazel works pretty good to tighten the skin. Its cheap and effective.
 
I too am at the beginning of my journey with straights. I have 2 Gold Dollar razors to learn with. One was honed properly, as it was both smooth and sharp. The other although sold as shave ready (eBay find) to me it’s needs work. It does shave but the blade wasn’t smooth or as sharp as o would have liked it. Found it appeared to bounce a bit when shaving and it left me with some irritation. My problem is I am 🇬🇧 based and would need recommendations of decent blade honers in 🇬🇧. Can anyone help me out with this ?
 
Yes, there is a learning curve. Not steep and not long. I haven't had a nick in quite a while. When I had them in the past it was when I got distracted. Your styptic pencil can be your friend starting out. The alum block I have now, is the same one I got when I started this adventure. Witchhazel works pretty good to tighten the skin. Its cheap and effective.
I used the alum block for the first time today and I have to say I quite enjoyed it lol. I'll save the pencils for the larger nicks if I can't avoid them.

I too am at the beginning of my journey with straights. I have 2 Gold Dollar razors to learn with. One was honed properly, as it was both smooth and sharp. The other although sold as shave ready (eBay find) to me it’s needs work. It does shave but the blade wasn’t smooth or as sharp as o would have liked it. Found it appeared to bounce a bit when shaving and it left me with some irritation. My problem is I am 🇬🇧 based and would need recommendations of decent blade honers in 🇬🇧. Can anyone help me out with this ?
Welcome to the club fellow newbie! If you go to the Straight Razor Section of the Forums and select Honing, you can find a sticky where they reference where to find a honemeister in your area.

Here's a link to help save you the trouble. Seems like you have limited options between Edge Dynamics and Neil Miller in London, but also have @gary haywood or even Invisible Edge. In any case, best of luck!
 
Have sent @gary haywood a PM to see if he can help me. I did try edge dynamics but not sure if it’s worth paying GBP45 to hone a Gold Dollar 66. Just seems a bit pricey to me but thanks for pointing me in the right direction
 
F

firebox

Who would have ever thought shaving could be so challenging? Its not, its just how we go about it. The only new blades I have purchased are customs and that adds up to four or five. All the others (20+) are really quite vintage blades. I prefer 6/8 and better. 5/8 is a decent size but the edge really make the shave. I also have a few 8/8 blades. That said, never expect to buy a new production razor and expect it to a give a proper shave. Over the years I bought a few new production blades, and although close none were really 'shave ready'. I eventually moved them along. Even when you buy a new production blade, always plan to have someone hone it to perfection. Btw, while I geared up. I remember being mesmerized by so many tips on maintaining a shaving brush. I did finally have to agree that a Silvertip badger is tough to beat. I have two Shavemac brushes I bought two so when the first failed, I'd have a back up. I still have both and my first brush is still perfect. I've lost more hair than the brush! The second, is new. Brush maintenance is not magic IMHO. A good brush is worth the investment. If you use it twenty years, its probably a good investment. So don't get caught up in any BS. Just rinse it really well and don't set it upright so the moisture goes into the knot. That said I use a pewter Quaich for my soap and when I'm finsihed, I just rinse the brush and rest it on its side on the handle of the quaich until dry. No magic, no elaborate mystery, no silly other things to do. I'm 69 I bought these when I was 48, so I think my brush buying days are over especially since I have a backup. While I'm at it, soaps are just personal preference. So far as honing, I hone all my own blades, but it takes time, practice, and the right tools. Its rewarding to manage your own blades. To acquire, clean, polish, and restore old blades is pretty cool. There is a lot a good information that can get you started if that is your cup of tea.
My longest post..... must be bored!
 
It finally updated and I was able to send a message thankfully. Now it’s a waiting game at this point.


I have absolutely nothing against the 2nd hand market but feel like it was something I just couldn’t get into. When I buy something, I usually tend to hold onto it long term with some intentions of passing it down to my children as they get older. I take a lot of pride in the mistakes I’ve made with learning something new. I invested a decent amount into a 2nd bicycle I anticipated purchasing for years and scratched it up a little bit after my first ride. I was a bit bothered by it, but love the fact that I can say that‘s my bike and I made that scratch as I would if I was to ding up my straight edge just a little bit.

However, you make a valid point that may make me want to look into the vintage market. A lot of these blades aren’t made the same way anymore and may offer a different experience. That’s something I’m open to. You make a Sheffield sound pretty tempting. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for this. I just joined today and I'm trying to respond via private message to a BST thread. I guess I'll have to wait for my account to update.
 
What I try and do is to make the lather as hydrated as I can so it just falls off. Then I wipe with a hand towel or tissue
 
F

firebox

I rinse my Str8s under the tap, dry it with a drag or two on a towel, then leave it open for several hours on the counter and fold it up and put it back in the drawer. I am in coastal N. Carolina and this keeps my blades free or rust or discoloration. I think leaving it to air dry is the key. YMMV.
 
F

firebox

I've never wiped the blades during the shave, just rinse under hot water stream and stay at it until done. then wipe the blade dry and leave it out to dry.
 
Been a busy week for me, but I finally got my razor honed by @Bayamontate and I have to say he did an amazing job. 10/10 would highly recommend.

Have sent @gary haywood a PM to see if he can help me. I did try edge dynamics but not sure if it’s worth paying GBP45 to hone a Gold Dollar 66. Just seems a bit pricey to me but thanks for pointing me in the right direction
I hope everything works out for you and you keep us updated.

Who would have ever thought shaving could be so challenging? Its not, its just how we go about it. The only new blades I have purchased are customs and that adds up to four or five. All the others (20+) are really quite vintage blades. I prefer 6/8 and better. 5/8 is a decent size but the edge really make the shave. I also have a few 8/8 blades. That said, never expect to buy a new production razor and expect it to a give a proper shave. Over the years I bought a few new production blades, and although close none were really 'shave ready'. I eventually moved them along. Even when you buy a new production blade, always plan to have someone hone it to perfection. Btw, while I geared up. I remember being mesmerized by so many tips on maintaining a shaving brush. I did finally have to agree that a Silvertip badger is tough to beat. I have two Shavemac brushes I bought two so when the first failed, I'd have a back up. I still have both and my first brush is still perfect. I've lost more hair than the brush! The second, is new. Brush maintenance is not magic IMHO. A good brush is worth the investment. If you use it twenty years, its probably a good investment. So don't get caught up in any BS. Just rinse it really well and don't set it upright so the moisture goes into the knot. That said I use a pewter Quaich for my soap and when I'm finsihed, I just rinse the brush and rest it on its side on the handle of the quaich until dry. No magic, no elaborate mystery, no silly other things to do. I'm 69 I bought these when I was 48, so I think my brush buying days are over especially since I have a backup. While I'm at it, soaps are just personal preference. So far as honing, I hone all my own blades, but it takes time, practice, and the right tools. Its rewarding to manage your own blades. To acquire, clean, polish, and restore old blades is pretty cool. There is a lot a good information that can get you started if that is your cup of tea.
My longest post..... must be bored!
I did buy a brush Silvertip badger brush from Muhle and I do have to say it’s quite nice. I like it. I just use common sense to maintain it by rinsing it when I’m done, shaking it a few times for any excess moisture and letting it hang to dry with a little stand I bought from them too. That’s probably the only thing I have to change though as it’s quite short and awkward to use with the brush. After Nelson honed my razor, I have every intention of honing it myself moving forward but may have to wait a while til I get the supplies needed to do that.

Just got your message I'd be glad to help free of charge
What a gentleman and truly great community!:a14:

What I try and do is to make the lather as hydrated as I can so it just falls off. Then I wipe with a hand towel or tissue
Pretty much what works for me too.
 
“Is it worth it to use up a towel and “dry wipe” your blade after each pass, vs. just placing it under a running faucet?”

No, watch the faucet. No need to wipe dry. I find that if I rinse under running hot water, soap will not stick to the blade as much.

After you shave, soap, skin, blood, and rust are stuck to the bevel and immediately begin to attack the super thin cutting edge.

Rinsing in running hot water will not remove it all, it will remove most, wiping with a damp towel will not remove it all. Stropping on linen will dry the bevel, remove all the schmutz, re-align the edge and add a bit of polish/keeness to the edge.

I run the blade under running water to remove lather, and wipe on a damp microfiber after shaving, then strop 10-20 laps on linen to clean and dry the bevel and edge.

Cleaning the bevels by stropping will also keep all the oxidation from contaminating your leather strop. Oxidation/rust is very abrasive. If you wipe enough rust on your good leather, you have pasted your strop with an unknown grit abrasive.

I rinse under running water while shaving, wipe with a damp microfiber post shave and with a dry microfiber to dry, then strop on linen to clean and leave open on an antique glass butter tray to dry completely over night.

I only wet the bevel, never the pivot and keep my hand dry when shaving.

Prove it to yourself, look at the edge with magnification, after shaving, wipe with a towel, look at it, Strop with clean linen and look at it again.
 
Typically, you'll strop with leather before the shave, and a cloth (linen, cotton, hemp) after the shave.
I've read quite a bit of advice about stropping, none of which agrees with you. Mostly, it says to strop first on the cloth, to renew the edge an then on the leather, to smooth the edge out and polish the blade. Of course, if you find that works best for you, don't let me stop you.
 
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