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First honing attempt

Spent a couple hours tonight on my first attempt of honing a straight, an 5/8 ERN 2200.

I used Naniwa superstones, started with 1K. It took me a while, but finally I had a bevel that seemed to be right, popping the hair on my arm easy.
Then 30 laps on each of the 3K/8K/12K before finishing with 10 laps on the balsa CrOx and 20/40 on canvas/Latigo.

I've been going thru all the sharpness tests probably hundred times with all of my straights, both the shave ready ones, and the ones that's not to get a feel of how it should be. In addition to the usual TNT, TPT and HHT I also was told about another test that seems to give a pretty good impression of the sharpness: If you put the blade to ypur hair, and give it a light pressure, it should stick to the hair if it is sharp, if not it will just slide over it.

This one passes all of the tests, now I just have to wait for tomorrow to give it the final real test, the shave.
 
It took me 9 months to muster up the guts to try, so I know that this is a big deal to get through your first honing effort. Congrats, and let us know how the shave goes.

I felt pretty good last night because I got a great shave from a straight that I honed 3-4 times before getting results.

The ultimate is being able to both shave with a straight and maintain the blade.
 
Final test completed!

Lathered up with MWF and went to work, a little nerveous, how will this end?
To my big surprise it went far better than I had expected, after all it was my first attempt of honing, and I had stropped my Tuckmar so I could finish the shave with it.
But it actually shaved pretty well, not the best shave I have had, there was a little tugging, and I got some mild burn, and when I went ATG on my neck I cot two small nicks, but it SHAVED :w00t:

I'm quite satistied with the result of my first honing, but my question now is, should I go back to the 8K first, or should I just do more laps on the 12K to get the edge smoother?
 
I use a Norton 8K and a Naniwa 12K and if I get under par results I go back to at least 8K. It could be the difference in hones but I spend more time on the 4/8K than 30 laps.
 

Legion

Staff member
I use a Norton 8K and a Naniwa 12K and if I get under par results I go back to at least 8K. It could be the difference in hones but I spend more time on the 4/8K than 30 laps.

Yeah, me too.

I also found a little 60x loupe or microscope to be a very handy thing when I was first honing. You would be amazed at what you can actually see when you get in that close.
 
Final test completed!

Lathered up with MWF and went to work, a little nerveous, how will this end?
To my big surprise it went far better than I had expected, after all it was my first attempt of honing, and I had stropped my Tuckmar so I could finish the shave with it.
But it actually shaved pretty well, not the best shave I have had, there was a little tugging, and I got some mild burn, and when I went ATG on my neck I cot two small nicks, but it SHAVED :w00t:

I'm quite satistied with the result of my first honing, but my question now is, should I go back to the 8K first, or should I just do more laps on the 12K to get the edge smoother?

:thumbup:

If it tugs you need some time on lower hones.
Suggestion:
Try the 8K until you really feel the blade "sticking" to the hone.
Then do 20 very light laps on 12K
follow up with 5 laps on CrOx.

Good luck!
 

rockviper

I got moves like Jagger
Well done! :thumbup1: I'm just starting to try to hone as well. It felt good to be able to improve a factory TI edge to the point where I could use it. A looooong way to go to get nice and smooth, but like you, I'm just starting out and any success is good at this point.
 
Great start to honing. It's a very satisfying feeling to shave with a razor you honed yourself.
I would do approx 50 laps on the 3k, 60-70 on the 8k and 20-30 on the 12k. There is a big gap between the 3k and 8k so you need to do more laps on the 8k to make up for it.
 
Thanks for the tips guys, I see now where my problem occured, I only did 30 laps on each of the hones after setting the bevel, didn't dare to do more in fear of over honing, but when I think about it that would probably be more likely to do on the 1K I guess.

Back to the stones tomorrow.
 
If you don't already have a loupe or something it is a very good, small, investment. I use a 30x loupe I got off eBay. It really helps to see what the edge is looking like.
 
This is all very helpful to me. I have a 5k, 8k, and 12k. I just bought them here on B&B and I tried for the first time last weekend. It still shaved but it was a tuff go for sure. I see that I too was timid and only went 25 laps on each stone. I see where the time goes now. Thanks for the help. Ill see if I can get better results this weekend.
 
If you don't already have a loupe or something it is a very good, small, investment. I use a 30x loupe I got off eBay. It really helps to see what the edge is looking like.

Went out and got myself what they called a portable microscope with 60-100X magnifying.
Taking a look at the edges on some og my razors I was surprised to see that one of my best razors had quite a few small chips that was visible at 100X.
Is there anything else than checking the edges for chips an pitting I can use it for? If so what should I look for?

Here's a pic of the microscope:

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When I set a bevel I use the loupe to check and make sure there is no more signs of the black marker that was on the bevel. Sometimes it will look like it's gone with the naked eye but when magnified there are still traces of it left.

Then I look for the scratch pattern of each step in the progression to make sure I stayed on that hone long enough.
 
When I set a bevel I use the loupe to check and make sure there is no more signs of the black marker that was on the bevel. Sometimes it will look like it's gone with the naked eye but when magnified there are still traces of it left.

Then I look for the scratch pattern of each step in the progression to make sure I stayed on that hone long enough.

Hmmm, here I think I have missed a part, black marker you say?
 
Hmmm, here I think I have missed a part, black marker you say?

Yeah, you mark the bevel with sharpie to test the eveness of your honing stroke. Kind of like your pencil marks when lapping a hone. The sharpie goes away evenly, you have a nice even stroke.
 
It doesn't always go away at an even pace but it will show if there are spots that need a little extra care.
 
So you basically use a marker and draw a line along the edge on both sides to make sure the bevel is set even?
 
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