Anyone who hones with lapping film?

[Brutus]

While honing with lapping film was much more talked about a dozen years ago, I do not recall many recent discussions.
One could think it was just another “flavour of the month”, where people soon went back to the true and tested (honing stones).

Yet, as I share my year mainly between Europe and the Canadian West Coast, the thought came to me whether I should get some glass plates with lapping film for the one end where I spend less time. Carrying a set of stones on a flight in my checked baggage is just not practical for weight reasons, but I could carry one or two glass plates with lapping film that, while they would not cover me for bevel setting, could cover the routine honing where I typically just use 8,000, 12,000 and 20,000 grit stones.

From what I gather, the more common PSA lapping film is not meant to be affixed and removed all the time, but with a single lapping plate with film 3µ film on one side and 1µ film on the other I could cover the 8,000 and 12,000 grit range, and with two glass plates with 0.3µ, 1µ, 3µ and 9µ (or 5µ) I could cover the 60,000 to 1,800 grit range. For some reason, 5µ lapping film does not seem to be particularly popular.

Could those who use(d) lapping film to supplement hones or as an alternative to hones relate their experience please?


Wishing you all a peaceful, healthy and prosperous 2024…


B.

 

[psfred]

Film works fine I think, but it's nowhere near as much fun as a huge pile of stones....

I'd use some acrylic blocks rather than glass, it's safer, plus you won't be without hones if you drop it on a tile floor.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Films work just fine, especially if you're not honing a whole truckload of razors. I would avoid the PSA backed film though. The adhesive varies enough in thickness that you likely will notice the unevenness when honing. Not to mention it's annoying to remove one it's spent.

I kept my film sheets in a sturdy pocket folder which works great for travel. Plus then you only need one plate, and carry as many films as you want.

I think the 5μ film in the early days was a different abrasive which was why folks didn't care for it. The stuff I bought over the last couple years (3M) was all the same abrasive though. I routinely used 12, 9, 5, 3, 1, and 0.3 although the 12 and 0.3 may not be necessary depending on your needs and preferences. You can definitely make bigger jumps, but keep in mind that will require spending more time on each subsequent film, which will wear it quicker. If you're not needing heavy steel removal, 5, 3, 1, and potentially 0.3 would be more than sufficient to maintain razors.

I also use the 600 grit equivalent (can't remember the color/ micron rating) for clipper blades. Works great.

 

[Lightcs1776]

I only use lapping film. However, it is due to cost, not preference. I have my granddad’s stones he used for knives when he was a butcher at A&P markets. I am still learning how to properly sharpen a knife and they are no good for SRs, but I prefer them to the film. It is just that a proper set of stones for SR sharpening is rather pricey.

 

[Derwent]

Acrylic sheet, and adhesive free lapping film.

I don't have the spare budget for a bunch of good stones, although I fully intend to get them over time.

Anyone got a spare coti they want to sell cheap?

 

[kayvee]

I use a Philips one blade trimmer for travel. My travel is usually 2 weeks or less. YMMV

 

[PintoPlain]

I use lapping film exclusively to hone. I would second an acrylic block instead of glass. If you're only touching up razors and not doing a full hone from geometry correction to bevel set to shaving, the finer films will be adequate. The range required is in @Darth Scandalous's post above.

I have used films and w/d sandpaper to restore some fairly dodgy razors, and it is possible. Perhaps doesn't have the same mojo as a pile of rocks, but it does work.

In my experience, film can last surprisingly well, although it does wear down eventually. One sheet cut into thirds should last a long time.

 

[kayvee]

My 2c. Stick to blades without geometry issues if you’re going to use film. Note: I’m an amateur at honing and my (slow) learning record is in my post history

 

[psfred]

Lol, non-wonky razors are easier no matter what you hone with!

 

[Tomo]

The big proponents of film and diamond pasted balsa have been inactive on the forum for some time and the topic has slowly drifted into the background. I started with film and later moved to stones. Films are fiddly but they work very well. I think they’re great for people that are starting out and still deciding if straight razor shaving is for them.

With films you get a full honing progression for very little initial outlay. You don’t need a diamond plate for flattening. The surface is soft and forgiving. Honing progression jumps are small. The whole system takes up very little room. It’s ideal for beginners or people with one or two razors who use their full honing progression infrequently. Sharp is easy with films.

The other nice thing is that once you have a film set up you can slowly add more stones as you go. You don’t need to buy everything all at once. Once you’ve figured out honing and shaving you can add a nice natural finisher and a diamond plate. This will give you a better face feel. It’s a marginal difference that might be lost on a beginner. If you catch the eBay vintage bug you can add a bevel setter. After that, a couple of midrange stones and you can forget about replacing worn out films.

The benifit of stones is that they last longer, the cutting power stays consistent, set up is quick and they often impart a nicer feeling finished edge. For that they cost more, take up more room and require a little maintenance.

Stones would still be my pick for travel. A small finisher does not take up much room. You can do a awful lot of touchups before you have to think about flattening 6x2 Ark. Some people get by with a 5x1” Thuri but they are a bit small for me. Personally I either go with an Ark or a 0.85um Shapton G7 series in my long stay travel kit. The Shaptons are fast and compact with a nice edge feel. They’re replaceable if they get lost and they make excellent travellers.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Yup to all Tomo said above. Film can give you some screaming edges, but a bit too keen for my face.

Glass12x3 tiles are readily available from Lowes or Home Depot for $4-5. Glass is not flat but can easily be flattened with a sheet of 220 and any flat surface.

Once flat it will leave a frosted matt finish that holds film exceptionally well, never had an issue with film slipping.

1um is a nice edge, 1um with a piece of copy paper underneath is better. I hone for a few guys who request film edges only, these are guys with heavy beards that shave twice a day.

I go to film from an 8 or 10k edge. Long term film only honing can get pricy and rival stone purchase, especially buying quality film. I buy from Thor Labs.

But a King 1/6k combo stone is $25, 6k will get you to film easily.

Hard chippy razors love film, years ago when hard Hart razors were chippy and driving folks crazy, film was the answer.

 

[JPO]

Yup to all Tomo said above. Film can give you some screaming edges, but a bit too keen for my face.

Glass12x3 tiles are readily available from Lowes or Home Depot for $4-5. Glass is not flat but can easily be flattened with a sheet of 220 and any flat surface.

Once flat it will leave a frosted matt finish that holds film exceptionally well, never had an issue with film slipping.

1um is a nice edge, 1um with a piece of copy paper underneath is better. I hone for a few guys who request film edges only, these are guys with heavy beards that shave twice a day.

I go to film from an 8 or 10k edge. Long term film only honing can get pricy and rival stone purchase, especially buying quality film. I buy from Thor Labs.

But a King 1/6k combo stone is $25, 6k will get you to film easily.

Hard chippy razors love film, years ago when hard Hart razors were chippy and driving folks crazy, film was the answer.

Is the glass side of a Shapton stone flat and even enough to be used with film?
I am considering trying some film just to see how it works.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Is the glass side of a Shapton stone flat and even enough to be used with film?
I am considering trying some film just to see how it works.

If it's not you can probably flatten it pretty easily.

 

[Wid]

Is the glass side of a Shapton stone flat and even enough to be used with film?
I am considering trying some film just to see how it works.

I’ve used the backside of a DMT, it works. I’d have to imagine the Shapton would work well. I also have a piece of glass I use but had never thought about lapping it, it still works well.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Yup, glass is surprisingly soft and easy to lap. The other pay off in lapping glass is the matt finish for holding film.

If you are trying film as a finisher, all you need is 1um.

 

[albsat]

Film seems to be a great resource to those who can't buy or find nearby a stone. Too bad people are not mentioned as it used to be.

There is an old post (2011) from one of the biggest proponents of film here, Seraphim, who posted also pictures of how good a lapping film was to maintain or set the bevel.

His setup was : DMT 1200 for bevel stropping, 3um, 1um and 1um with paper. Sometimes he used a pasted crox strop as a finisher after 1um.

I want to try his system.