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Coticule love... show off your rock

My second Coticule - an E. Morris Genuine Old Rock 2 x 4 Extra Extra Belgium Hone I acquired from a generous member.

I have only used the hone once, getting a comfortable and plenty sharp edge that easily handled the toughest portion of my chin. Very happy!

Loving the small size. I was a little apprehensive about the size but there is plenty of surface area - you just need to concentrate.

The last pic is a family shot of Old Rock hanging out with his 5 x 2.5 big brother. Both stones have similar texture with the Old Rock having a slightly darker color. I need to be careful about getting ahead of myself, but I am now finding myself thinking about manganese lines :).

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I need to be careful about getting ahead of myself, but I am now finding myself thinking about manganese lines :).
Same here. Way back when, I had a large coticule that resembled a dalmation but since I was inexperienced and had no time to learn the stone I let it go. I see them pop up from time to time but you gotta pounce right away.
 
Deep Rock vs Old Rock characteristics? Anyone have a bunch of both and notice consistent characteristics in ones with interesting patterns. I seem to remember after seeing a bunch online over the years that the deep rock seem to have more stones with browns and odd patterns on the surface sometimes while Old Rock seem to have more manganese lines and pink dots covering the surface. Not all of them obviously just the ones that seem to have cool patterns. Am I imagining this or has anyone else noticed this?
 
Very happy yesterday to find this at the back of a second hand tool shop, hidden under it's paddle case thing.

Quite a pretty, light-coloured stone, with some 'leafy' patterns and pink blush. Surprisingly hard to lap, so may be better for razors than knives, but looking forward to trying on both later. A little over 7x2.

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Legion

Staff member
Nice score on that beauty Oli.


Ta! Just tried it out, and it really is a bit of a gem...

I'm not a coti+razor expert, but this was a superb shave. Best coticule edge I've got to date.

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With slurry raised the stone is also fast enough for knife use, which is the really important factor for coticule knife sharpening. The stone swarfs up quite a lot with just a couple of strokes.

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In any other type of stone the 'grit level' of a coti would be too fine for really good, general-purpose kitchen knife edges. These cuts are on toilet paper, which is next to impossible to do on a kitchen knife whatever stone you have. But to get it with some degree of toothy character still remaining on the finish can only really be done on very good, fast, and fine coticules ime.

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This one's a keeper I think! :)
 
(And I just strop knives on newspaper btw... I'm not yoinking out a load of pasted strops to knock the edge up massively. It's extremely sharp just as it is.)
 
I’m signing up for your knife honing class.


Haha, cheers... just a good knife, good stone, and a lot of practice!

(I don't tend to say I'm particularly good at anything, cos usually I'm not, but yes - freehanding knives on stones I am pretty decent I think, and could probably hold my own with most very good sharpeners. Though it's part of what I do for a living so you'd hope so.)
 

David

B&B’s Champion Corn Shucker
Haha, cheers... just a good knife, good stone, and a lot of practice!

(I don't tend to say I'm particularly good at anything, cos usually I'm not, but yes - freehanding knives on stones I am pretty decent I think, and could probably hold my own with most very good sharpeners. Though it's part of what I do for a living so you'd hope so.)
I think my biggest issue is not getting the burr completely removed. I tried cutting a paper towel last night off the GS500 and couldn’t do it. I think the edge might be there, but it’s hiding behind the burr.
 

Legion

Staff member
I think my biggest issue is not getting the burr completely removed. I tried cutting a paper towel last night off the GS500 and couldn’t do it. I think the edge might be there, but it’s hiding behind the burr.
I’ve found running the edge lightly over a cork, then going back for some light x strokes on the finishing stone has helped me with that.
 
I think my biggest issue is not getting the burr completely removed. I tried cutting a paper towel last night off the GS500 and couldn’t do it. I think the edge might be there, but it’s hiding behind the burr.


Yep, that's very probably what's happening; burr minimisation/removal is easily the most important part of knife sharpening, and on very aggressive stones it's just not that easy. On the SG500 you just have to gradually reduce pressure, while maintain the angle, till your final strokes are at no weight at all (bit like a razor progression).

Though also - you have a million lovely stones that that will put a far better final working edge on a kitchen knife, so there may not be a whole helluva lot of point in trying. I pretty much never finish knives that low tbh.

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There is another method if you're having trouble deburring well on an aggressive stone, which people call the 'Kippington Method', though Jules didn't invent it. It's effectively the same as, or at least similar to 'jointing'.

Here are a couple of vids he's done; the first is highly exaggerated on a piece of non ht-ed steel to explain the theory, the second shows it more properly. This guy is one of the most highly regarded custom knife makers out there (he made my knife in the pic above), and a seriously hot sharpener. Which he does all on two, worn, no-name Chinese diamond plates off ebay and an SG4k. Often one-handed. It's quite something to see in person!






(I would also recommend @Legion's suggestion above - pulling through a cork is a very good way to tidy up the last bits of any burr or wire edge).
 
Yep, that's very probably what's happening; burr minimisation/removal is easily the most important part of knife sharpening, and on very aggressive stones it's just not that easy. On the SG500 you just have to gradually reduce pressure, while maintain the angle, till your final strokes are at no weight at all (bit like a razor progression).

Though also - you have a million lovely stones that that will put a far better final working edge on a kitchen knife, so there may not be a whole helluva lot of point in trying. I pretty much never finish knives that low tbh.

---

There is another method if you're having trouble deburring well on an aggressive stone, which people call the 'Kippington Method', though Jules didn't invent it. It's effectively the same as, or at least similar to 'jointing'.

Here are a couple of vids he's done; the first is highly exaggerated on a piece of non ht-ed steel to explain the theory, the second shows it more properly. This guy is one of the most highly regarded custom knife makers out there (he made my knife in the pic above), and a seriously hot sharpener. Which he does all on two, worn, no-name Chinese diamond plates off ebay and an SG4k. Often one-handed. It's quite something to see in person!






(I would also recommend @Legion's suggestion above - pulling through a cork is a very good way to tidy up the last bits of any burr or wire edge).
All i have at the moment in the kitchen is a atoma 1200 and a shapton HR 3k. I do not own any high end knifes. I just need it to go fast. My wife is a knife abuser, so this was the easiest way i could maintain my soft stainless knifes.
I am not close to that guy in terms of results. The deburring part have always been a bit challenging.
I need to see if i can incorporate something from this.
I do have a SG500 that have not been used yet that should fit somewhere.
 
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