Corking blades

[paul.c]

I would try corking, but I am a straights guy, and I use leather. I do see the potential benefit, and would be on the supporter side of this idea, since it doesnt seem very simple to strop a DE blade in the same manner that you would a Straight.

 

[MikeLip]

I have been using a Cobra Classic with, of course, Feather blades. While the combo gets me closer than anything else I have tried - including a slant - that first shave or two can be a little rough. I have found that correctly done, corking the blade does not take away from longevity, but makes shave #1 feel like shave #3 - nice and comfortable.

 

[Haiku]

The return of the corking thread!

And on the same day that I posted my 2000th post too!

 

[ateace]

The weather's starting to get nice. Maybe it's time for a softball game between the corkers and the hand-stroppers.

 

[El Comanche]

All,
I was reading the "other forum" and picked up on this. I can't remember it being talked about here, though. Essentially, I run my Feather blade through a cork 5 times lengthwise on each side. The resulting shaves are so smooth, you get a "day 3" smooth and comfortable shave on the first day of a Feather. The roughness is honed out. And I may add I really don't see any longevity decrease, either. It has saved my face, because the first day of a Feather would sometimes set the rest of the week off on a bad note. Give it a try, it may work for you.
John

How many shaves do you normally get after corking?

 

[Gafer]

How many shaves do you normally get after corking?

Wow, I thought this thread had finally died.

I was an early corker and got over it. I found that while it did help a little it just wasn't that spectacular. As far as blade life, I never noticed a different.

 

[Futur]

I was Having very good shaves with the Merkur blades that came with my Futur razor when I read how the Derbys was supposed to be kind of the perfect middelground between the MUCH too sharp and harsh Feathers (for me) and the Merkurs. This led me to order a 100 pack of Derbys.
When the Derbys arrived, I got the new vertical packs that many people are complaining about. I certainly understood that, because the Derbys was VERY uncomfortable, they felt very scratchy on my skin and gave me a lot of cuts. I was considering throwing them in the trash, because I couldn't in good faith sell them to anybody and there was no noticable manufacturing defects either.
Then I read this thread the other day, and today i tried corking a Derby on a styrofoam peanut that I got from Charles with my DE89. I did 5 light strokes on each side.
I was just amazed, the blade went from beeing totally useless and even dangerous to giving me one of the best and most comfortable shaves I have ever had. Now, 15 hours later I only have light 5 o'clock stubble, that means I got a really superb shave by my standards. I normally have to shave twice a day, maybe I'll get off with once a day, if this keeps up

I'm definatly a Corker from now on I have to be, or I'll have to trash 97 brand new Derbys

Btw. With the speed and ease that the blade can be removed from the Futur, I'll definatly be corking the blade every day

 

[El Comanche]

Hey Guys, I'm interested in corking my feathers and bluebirds, but wondering if you have a safe method to do so as I play guitar for a living. Holding on the sides still seems a bit risky to me. -

 

[mblakele]

I believe palm-stropping will give you about the same results, with roughly the same level of danger (very little). There's a video covering SE blades, DE blades, and cartridges: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ogq4wfpT7hc

 

[Futur]

Hey Guys, I'm interested in corking my feathers and bluebirds, but wondering if you have a safe method to do so as I play guitar for a living. Holding on the sides still seems a bit risky to me. -

This is what I do: I grab the blade in the center between my thumb and indexfinger, that feels like a safe way to hold the blade while corking. I then use the thumb and indexfinger on my other hand to grab the side of the blade, where there is no edge, when I turn it around. I do this without releasing the grip in the center.
You have to handle the blade while changing them anyway. I believe that if you do this slowly and deliberatly, there should be very little extra chance of cutting yourself because of the corking, it only takes a few extra seconds and very few extra "manipulations" of the blade. Since you're at all interested in this, I can allmost guarantee you that the benefits will far outweigh any added risk.

I have looked at the video of handstropping. I like corking better, because it is a continous very light, streight and smooth slice of the blade lenghtwise. I feel that this has a better chance of straightening the micro burrs on the blade compared to stropping it sideways across a surface that is not flat. I'm sure handstropping works well also and would definatly use it if I didn't have any suitable corking material available. Anything is better than "honing" off the burrs with my face

 

[jrowen]

1. No, I have not tried this, but I have tried hand stropping with no real discernable difference
2. Yes, I have read the whole thread... took most of a saturday afternoon

I am curious... it seems to me that something is going on here with the corking and hand stropping. It obvoiusly does something to the blade. Does anyone have the capability to take a microscopic photo of the edge of a blade (a Feather, I suppose) to compare pre- and post- corking/hand stropping?

Surely, if so many members subscribe to these methods, there ought to be something physical we can measure/capture for how these methods actually alter the blade edge.

What do "smoothness" or "sharpness" look like on a blade edge? Are there any objective physical criteria we can come up with and correlate to determine what makes a blade edge feel "smooth"? Can we see these "burrs" prior to corking, and can we see them removed or muted afterwards? Can we then rank blades on average smoothness? Could we predict which blades will feel smooth by a photograph of the edge? Can we provide physical proof that Feathers are inherently not smooth compared to a brand generally agreed upon as smooth (gillete swedes?)?

What about sharpness? Can we see the wedge of the blade edge prior to and after corking / hand stropping? Is the edge bent over? has the wedge been blunted?

What about coatings? Has the platinum coating been removed/scratched/thinned?

Just curious. Like I said, it seems like something is happening to the blade during these procedures. Exactly what, and to what extent they are really desirable is another question. It would seem to me that some member here would have the technology to provide the desired insight to the quesions above (or maybe they have better questions themselves).

 

[Futur]

I searched for microscopic pictures of razorblades, these are what I found:

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=105752

I sure don't mind smoothing out that mess a little
I understand what I feel on my skin after corking much better now that I can see what it looks like before.

I would think that when the microburrs catch on to the skin, they will bend over a larger portion of the edge before they break off. This would certainly cause the discomfort I have felt. I would also guess that removing as many microburrs as possible in a lenghtwise slicing motion would break them off cleanly without bending more of the edge to the sides. The rest of the edge should be well supported in the cork or styrofoam while removing the burrs. I would also think that this would strenghten the edge considerably before its used to cut whiskers across the blade.
If this makes sense, it would also make sense that corking should be better than handstropping.

 

[mullard]

Hmmmm. I am going to try this with those Feathers. I need some cork though. I am not a wine drinker. Anyone have a suggestion on a good place to buy good cork? I can get cork fishing bobbers. Mullard

 

[Follicle Genocide]

Hmmmm. I am going to try this with those Feathers. I need some cork though. I am not a wine drinker. Anyone have a suggestion on a good place to buy good cork? I can get cork fishing bobbers. Mullard

Go to a bar or resturant towards the end of the night and ask if they have any they were planning on tossing. Most resturants will keep their empty wine and liquor bottles in a separate box so people won't get cut with broken glass.

 

[mrscottishman]

Hey Guys, I'm interested in corking my feathers and bluebirds, but wondering if you have a safe method to do so as I play guitar for a living. Holding on the sides still seems a bit risky to me. -

I have seen some people with a three piece razor leave the bottom plate off and use the handle and top plate as a handle and guide to cork. I am sure it depends on your razor whether this will work or not. I can't remember if it was a bar or pin blade clamping razor. I will experiment a little and report. I am one of the guys with a stack of new derbys. I wouldn't consider buying more, but would like to use the ones I have got.

Lowe's sells bottle corks in the specialty drawers of the hardware section. There are also adhesive cork boards and strips for sell at hardware stores and office supplies. I glued a strip on a tongue depressor back in the day and thought I was high tech. Also remember some people "cork" with Styrofoam- cups, packing blocks or p-nuts. I thought I would try that too. The key to corking is also the secret of DE shaving, light pressure. Years ago I corked used blades and felt like it would extend the life maybe one or two more shaves. I never corked a new blade back then. My water glass experience made me think the glass did little if any sharpening, but cleaned and maybe straighten the edge. I didn't find a "magic" water glass. If you press the center of the blade until it touches the glass the edges don't touch the glass anyway. Light pressure again and you do it all at your own risk.

Some people should wear gloves when they change blades and have a doctor standing by. . .

mrscottishman

 

[Stubblefield]

I searched for microscopic pictures of razorblades, these are what I found:

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=105752

I sure don't mind smoothing out that mess a little

Assuming that corking and hand stropping will actually have an effect, that is.

Without before an after pictures of stropped/corked vs non-stropped/corked blades, all this talk of the benefit of corking/stropping is pure conjecture. (I'm referring to this thread in general, and not your post specifically). What is needed here is evidence, and not a thought experiment.

Take care.

 

[coolbluewater]

It's taken me awhile to get through this thread. Referring to Jatte's post (4/26/2009) it appears as he put some time into getting the technique down with cork. The palm-strop vid also looks interesting. That said, for those who buy Derbys, Feathers and other "rough and not quite ready" blades, it looks to be a viable workaround. I'll have to give it a shot when I get around to using those blades. It makes sense though; I strop most of my knives after honing and it does make a noticeable difference.

 

[Futur]

Assuming that corking and hand stropping will actually have an effect, that is.
Without before an after pictures of stropped/corked vs non-stropped/corked blades, all this talk of the benefit of corking/stropping is pure conjecture. (I'm referring to this thread in general, and not your post specifically). What is needed here is evidence, and not a thought experiment.

Take care.

You are absolutely right, my comments was as you say only a thought experiment of pure conjecture I was just sharing my thoughts But I thought it was well based on pure logic, what I see in the microscope picture and what I feel on my skin.

Really, the only evidence that matters is what is felt on the skin when you shave. My skin proves to me that corking my Derbys makes an excellent shaver out of an otherwise useless and even close to dangerous blade. But as is so often said here, YMMV. If you're having supersmooth and totally irritationfree shaves, you're all set and don't need to cork.
But if you feel there is room for improvement, that your first shave with a new blade could be smoother, please try it. After all, what do you have to loose? A blade that can't hold its edge after a few very light slices in styrofoam, is definatly not a blade I would want to shave with

Still, if anybody has the equipment to do before and after pictures, I'd be very interested to see them

 

[jrowen]

Without before an after pictures of stropped/corked vs non-stropped/corked blades, all this talk of the benefit of corking/stropping is pure conjecture. (I'm referring to this thread in general, and not your post specifically). What is needed here is evidence, and not a thought experiment.

+1

I would add, the discussion has been "anecdotal" at best. In no way am I trying to squash members who subscribe to these methods. If it works for you, great! I'm certainly open to trying it myself, as we don't necessarily have to understand the mechanisms to appreciate the results. This is not say that there is no value in attempting to understand the mechanism because we can appreciate the results regardless of it. One picture of a blade edge of unknown brand or origin isn't gonna do it for me with regards to evidence. For all we know, that's a picture of one of Wolverine's fingernails. I followed the B&B thread link provided, and did not find that picture in the thread, maybe I don't "read good". We need a controlled experiment with before and after pictures. My previous post was an attempt to motivate any such member who has the capability... PLEASE!! DO IT FOR THE CHILDREN!!!.

Really, the only evidence that matters is what is felt on the skin when you shave.

I do very much agree that the ultimate goal is a smooth, irritation free shave, and no one can tell you which blades will give that to you. However, I see much value in objectively knowing what I'm doing to the blade edge. Maybe Feather's actually do need to be "de-burred" out of the box... but instead of sitting in a circle, holding hands, and talking about whether the blade "still feels sharp to me", we'll have concrete proof that they either do or do not come out of the box in a shave-ready condition and what the effect of the corking on the edge actually was.

For those members that use this method, regardless of what the evidence suggests about how the blade was altered (if at all) during the process, the knowledge can only add to your understanding of yourself and what will work for you. If the blade is actually blunted in some way, I don't think that means you should stop corking if it works for you, but you will gain understanding as to why it works for you.

 

[mrscottishman]

Here is my challenge and it will take time for me to work out the results for me. We have double edged blades in the DEs (obvious, but worth mentioning) Many have lines, one line on one side and two on the other. KAI's don't but I shave with an adjustable most of the time and with the indicator I can tell one side from another. Cork one side and not the other and see if on new and used blades it makes a difference comparing the two edges in the same DE razor against the same beard prep.
Here is the test:
Cork one edge new blade and test
Cork one edge old blade and test
Recork one edge
Cork different blades (like the vertical derby)
Try styrofoam too
Report back.

The winner gets a cork tree planted in their back yard.

best,
mrscottishman