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Chinese Diamond Plates vs. Atoma or DMT

Was set to pull the trigger on an Atoma (or DMT) 600 plate to use primarily for lapping honing stones. Looking around I found the usual assortment of plates on Amazon (all of Chinese origin) for a fraction of the cost. I don't mind incurring the cost for quality tools, but if one plate is going to work as well as the higher priced entry, I have no problem going that route either. Advice?
 
Was set to pull the trigger on an Atoma (or DMT) 600 plate to use primarily for lapping honing stones. Looking around I found the usual assortment of plates on Amazon (all of Chinese origin) for a fraction of the cost. I don't mind incurring the cost for quality tools, but if one plate is going to work as well as the higher priced entry, I have no problem going that route either. Advice?
I've wondered about that myself, but I stick to quality, because I am afraid of diamonds coming off of the cheap stone and winding up in my slurry.
 
For lapping soft water stones, it really does not matter. I have most all plates by all the big guns, Chef Knives to Go and no name eBay Chinese plates, some 10-15 years old that have lapped hundreds of synthetic and natural stones, repaired razors and tools and hone much tool steel.

They all work. None really better than others, some may finish a bit finer than the grit rated, but if lapping a stone, you will abrade the finish in a few laps anyway.

I have the vaulted, new Chinese, Sharpal Diamond Sharpening Stone on order. Be careful if you order, lots of sites are selling the 6-inch stone, buy the 8X3 stone.

Bottom line, most plates are made the same way and they all work, the Chef Knives to Go are good plates, but Atoma’s have come down in price and are available on Amazon, free shipping if you are a Prime member.

If you are lapping a lot of stones a 140-grit stone is invaluable, especially for harder magnesium bonded stones. I prefer to lap sones with 300-400 grit. CNTG sells a 1000/400 grit stone for $35 and a 140 for $30. If you add shipping it may be a sideways move with Atoma.
 
I currently own an Atoma 400 (8") plate. Any real advantage to picking up another in 600? Hardest stones it will see with any frequency are my Naniwa SS, Scottish hones, and coticule. Maybe an Arkansas or two on rare occasion.
 
No, not really none of those stones are stone face dependent. And it you wanted a finer finish you can finish a synthetic stone with a slurry stone, small ark or nagura.

I find the finish on the Suehiro 10k can be improved a bit for final finish using a nagura. But if you are not shaving off that stone, it does not matter.

I use my Diamond plates a lot for sharpening tools and knives, especially hard tool and knife steels.

I doubt you would see any performance increase with the stones you mentioned, with a 600 over a 400.

BTW Barkeepers will revive a diamond plate, pretty dramatically, a Melamine eraser will also clean them up easily and impressively, a tip from Steve56 & Scott life2short1971, though diamond plates eat the erasers.

The Melamine erasers also clean Shapton glass and the Suehiro 10k a treat, probably would work well on Naniwia Super Stones, makes the swarf almost rinse off.
 

Legion

Staff member
I've had both cheap and expensive plates. The cheap ones have sometimes had imperfections like clumping of the diamonds that have left scratches on the stone I was lapping. Also, the way the diamond is attached is less solid, so some might break loose if you are useing them to raise slurry, and that would be bad.

Now I'll use the cheap ones in a coarser grit (240ish) to remove material more quickly, then go to an Atoma 400 or a DMT 600 to improve the finish.
 
My concern would be around flatness. I suspect the cheap plates would struggle match the tolerance of a DMT diaflat or a certified granite surface plate. My Atomas have been sketchy too but they work well enough in practice.

The good plates last a long time. I’ve lapped dozens of stones on my Atoma 400 including Novaculites and it’s still going strong. It may have mellowed a bit but there’s lots of diamond left and it still cuts any rock that I put to it.
 
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I have some China plates, I check flatness with a straight edge. I have had some china plates dead flat and other meh, but 9 out of 10 are flat. I like to make my own plates, 2 dead flat plate skins glued to foam or PVC material. They are light and easy to work with and do a fine job. If they become not so dead flat, they will go to the garbage. I have not had to do that. I also have Atoma and DMT, but I like to have 2-3 plates at each place I hone (bathroom, shop, workbench). That can get pricey with Atomas. In short, If you want the best, buy Atoma.
 
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Most chinese cheap plates I have owned have had high spots. Great for heavy flattening, but I use a fine atoma for final finish or slurry.
 
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