Yep This ^^^If it's shot, then it's shot.
But sometimes some people think it's shot when it isn't.
Maybe try cleaning it with a very stiff tooth brush and scouring powder.
I lap a lot quite often, I have to clean my plates off regularly or they slow down. I use Barkeepers Friend powder, you prob don't have that available but I am sure there is an equivalent.
I also have a very old 400x that is very tired. I don't use it for making slurry, last thing I want is a diamond nub popping off into my finishing slurry. Yes, it happens. If I want slurry, I'll use a slurry stone.
But - for final finish lapping of just about any stone - the beat up 400 Atoma works great.
Cheap diamond plates for lapping
- Thread starter Legion
- Start date
Yep This ^^^
- Thread starter
- #22
I went with this option, so the wait begins.
I was able to get a 30cm diameter disk in 240 grit for about $60AU, posted.
Still cheaper than the cheapest $45 US replacement Atoma 400 i found on Amazon.
After the conversion, that would be 41 EUR. Problem is an Atoma replacement sheet sells for 65 EUR over here.
- Thread starter
- #25
And about $85AU here. If the lapping disk matches up in performance and longevity, then I am well in front based on the size. Worth a try, anyway.
DMD diamond stones got some friends here around. Not much feedback, but cutting reliable with little wear.
Now DMD offers diamond plates. There is a first look at german Messerforum:
Just checked the low grit with a straight edge (Haarlineal). Its concave from end to end, definitely more than my Diaflat. Hhmmmm, .
I didn't ecpect that. And so far I can not tell how deep the concave is.
Now DMD offers diamond plates. There is a first look at german Messerforum:
Vorstellung DMD Kombi-Diamantplatte 400/1200 mit Schliffbildern
Of course no one knows how long this plates last. But I took a 150/400 and 400/1000....Just checked the low grit with a straight edge (Haarlineal). Its concave from end to end, definitely more than my Diaflat. Hhmmmm, .
I didn't ecpect that. And so far I can not tell how deep the concave is.
My experience with this still dmd had the same problem. Gets worse with pressure.
Attachments
I have the same plates in 400/1200. They are also sold as FOSS, and typically used for ice skate sharpening, due to their extra length.
I have used mine by only using the loose plates (they are attached with magnets to the plastic) to shape convex stones.
I do not use them for stone flattening due to their flexibility, even when they are attached to the plastic holder they are not stiff enough.
Some good news, my 400/1000 is flat.
There are different builds. Mine are glued to aluminium profile.
On sluminium profile, glued? How much pressure do you use?
I have used most all of the big-name diamond plates, own Atoma in 140, 400, 600 and 1200, and several of the no name Chinese eBay knock offs.
They all work, I have a Chinese trend knock off from Chef Knives to Go in 140 grit that has lapped hundreds of stones, chisel, and plane backs, must be 10+ years old and still going strong. The CNTG $30, 400/1k is also a work horse.
They all work, how long they last, is more about how they are used, I lap under running water to flush the swarf from between the diamonds. If you let the swarf build up it can rip out the diamonds. For lapping steel, I use a 50% Windex and water in a lab rinse squirt bottle.
I also clean my plates regularly, if one needs cleaning, I clean them all, about 8 that are in rotation, with a paste of Barkeepers, Oxalic Acid, let sit 10-15 minutes and scrub with a stiff fingernail brush, also keeps rust to minimum.
Dead flat? No, none of them, not a problem.
They all work, I have a Chinese trend knock off from Chef Knives to Go in 140 grit that has lapped hundreds of stones, chisel, and plane backs, must be 10+ years old and still going strong. The CNTG $30, 400/1k is also a work horse.
They all work, how long they last, is more about how they are used, I lap under running water to flush the swarf from between the diamonds. If you let the swarf build up it can rip out the diamonds. For lapping steel, I use a 50% Windex and water in a lab rinse squirt bottle.
I also clean my plates regularly, if one needs cleaning, I clean them all, about 8 that are in rotation, with a paste of Barkeepers, Oxalic Acid, let sit 10-15 minutes and scrub with a stiff fingernail brush, also keeps rust to minimum.
Dead flat? No, none of them, not a problem.
Depends on what i am doing. Not a ton. That aluminum flexes quit easily. Most objects are not as rigid as people think. There is a reason that a 9x12 surface plate is 2 inches thick.
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- #32
Ok, NOW we have some lapping real estate to work on.
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