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she will get pinned tonight and hopefully finish bevel set.....its close but I'm lacking on the toe for about a 1/4" more work.

I love the porter cable dark green polishing compound stick.........works wonders.

camo
 
pinned and bevel pretty close to set. getting better at rolling on the toe.

20200623_194110.jpg


she may not be much but I like how she looks and damn I'm having fun. now I need to start looking at wood types that are harder. maple, walnut, wenge, etc.

camo
 
Nice, but if the spine and edge are in alignment for angle, probably dont need to roll.

have you checked that the edge is in contact across the hone without a roll?
 
Nice, but if the spine and edge are in alignment for angle, probably dont need to roll.

have you checked that the edge is in contact across the hone without a roll?

it feels nice and flat honing.......but its leaving 1/4" of the toe dull. so I used a light roll at the very end of the stroke and it helped a lot. no pressure, just ever so slightly lowering the inside long edge of the stone in hand.

camo
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
A very fine first project. Congratulations.

A question, when opened 180deg, where does the razor balance (distance from pivot pin, towards or away from the blade)?
 
A very fine first project. Congratulations.

A question, when opened 180deg, where does the razor balance (distance from pivot pin, towards or away from the blade)?

it's a very light razor......

it balances on my finger on the shank, my finger barely clears the front point of the scales.

between being a 5/8 and the wood its a light and airy soul.

i the anchor on the flipside shank.

20200623_214805.jpg


camo
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
The reason I asked about the balance point is that most SR's are manufacturer with their balance point being very close to the pivot pin. This is irrespective of the overall mass of the complete razor. I have even found this with shavette style SR's as well.

I don't know why this balance point is popular with manufacturers. It must have proved itself popular with users over the decades. All my SR's balance within about 5mm of the pivot pin, some towards and some away from the blade.

It will be interesting to see how you like shaving with this project razor once the edge is fully developed.
 
It was not uncommon for older blades to be made with a slight taper in blade width from heel to toe. Why, I don't know. Still, it shouldn't affect the shave quality.

If the spine thickness is constant from shoulder to point, the tapering blade width will give a variable bevel angle along the edge. This also should not be a problem provided the angle is within your acceptance.

I would say use this blade in your project. It should hone up well.

will report when ready to sail.

I must say on a side note.......I'm really liking the inner washers (brass) that came with the pinning kit I got. they help distribute pressure and tension very well on the blade. consistent pressure regardless of where you move the blade.

camo
 
I must say on a side note.......I'm really liking the inner washers (brass) that came with the pinning kit I got. they help distribute pressure and tension very well on the blade. consistent pressure regardless of where you move the blade.

I find the inner washers to be too thick. I usually hammer them with a flat hammer head to thin them out to about half their original thickness. They don't look as nice after I've done this but they're not visible once installed anyway so it doesn't really matter. The inner hole shrinks after doing this so I usually need to resize it again with a drill bit which can be awkward. Hammering gives me less visible inner washers, which is why I do it, but also increases the surface area of the washer and gives smooth opening/closing of the razor.
 
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