Wedge

[gpjoe]

I've never replaced scales before, and have a vintage 5/8 razor which has a crack in the pivot area on one scale. I'll continue to use it but it seems inevitable that it is eventually going to break.

The razor is a nice user-grade shaver that I like enough to consider replacing the scales if/when it breaks, but don't want to invest a lot in my first rescale:

Some of the affordable scales I've seen (up to 20 bucks) are already pinned at the wedge. Some appear to have no taper to the wedge, and the gap in the scales is parallel without the pivot pinned.

Shouldn't the scales fan out a bit towards the pivot end?

So, it appears that the "wedge" on some of the replacement scales I've seen is not a true wedge but more of a flat spacer.

Can a flat spacer be used in lieu of a true wedge?...or will the razor be too loose without the tension provided by a tapered wedge?

 

[gpjoe]

Here is an example of what I see:

Shouldn't the unpinned pivot end splay out a bit?...does it matter?

 

[rbscebu]

Many renowned SR manufacturers make their SRs with a parallel spacer, even the likes of Ralf Aust, Revisor, etc.. Some of my SRs are parallel spaced and others wedged. I cannot tell the difference between them in use.

Personal, I prefer the aesthetics of a wedge so all my re-scales with new scales are fitted as such.

 

[gpjoe]

Many renowned SR manufacturers make their SRs with a parallel spacer, even the likes of Ralf Aust, Revisor, etc.. Some of my SRs are parallel spaced and others wedged. I cannot tell the difference between them in use.

Personal, I prefer the aesthetics of a wedge so all my re-scales with new scales are fitted as such.

Thanks.

I tend to get wordy, but my main concern is the functional difference between a true wedge vs a flat spacer, and you answered that...

 

[Darth Scandalous]

Here is an example of what I see:

View attachment 1685360

Shouldn't the unpinned pivot end splay out a bit?...does it matter?

I believe the idea behind a wedge is that it allows the scales to flex throughout the full range of motion while maintaining decent tension at the pivot, and, at the same time, not putting extra stress on the pivot. Take a razor and rotate the blade around and watch what the scales are doing, you'll see what I mean. You do see spacers on high end razors nowadays, especially on inflexible exotic wood scales.

Besides having a spacer, a couple other things stand out from the photo you posted. One, the spacer is pretty narrow. Depending on the grind of the razor it may not sit very deep into the scales as a result. Second, the scales are pretty thick. I like them thinner.

 

[gpjoe]

I believe the idea behind a wedge is that it allows the scales to flex throughout the full range of motion while maintaining decent tension at the pivot, and, at the same time, not putting extra stress on the pivot. Take a razor and rotate the blade around and watch what the scales are doing, you'll see what I mean. You do see spacers on high end razors nowadays, especially on inflexible exotic wood scales.

Besides having a spacer, a couple other things stand out from the photo you posted. One, the spacer is pretty narrow. Depending on the grind of the razor it may not sit very deep into the scales as a result. Second, the scales are pretty thick. I like them thinner.

Thanks for the input. I need all the help I can get, so everything is a consideration, including the spacing.

My razor is a 5/8 full hollow, so I'm thinking something like the scales pictured would work.

 

[Legion]

Yes, ideally wedges should be tapered.

One of the best explanations I recall is from pro knife, razor maker Bill Ellis in this old thread. The pics are gone, but hopefully you get the idea.

Tapered Wedges

There is a very informative and helpful thread that "legion" started in regards to making your own scales. It is here. In it there was some general talk about the wedge. There were a few comments about tapering the wedge and I wholeheartedly agree. However, I started this thread as a separate...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[Gamma]

I was looking for that thread actually - Bill nailed it.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

As said, there is/was a lot of thought that went into the making of straight razors back in the day.

A pair of razor scales should bow equally on both ends, to 1. Keep the scales in tension, and straight, (it was not uncommon for vintage scales to be very thin). 2. Prevent the tang from rubbing the scales. 3. Keep the pivot pin in tension. 4. Allow the scales to flex through the entire opening and closing without breaking or warping.

The wedge angle should be the same as the angle of the tang at the pivot, not necessarily the same thickness, but at the same angel. (Note that the tang at the pivot on quality vintage razors is not flat but tapered). This can easily be measured with a pair of calipers and figure out a ratio. The angle does not need to be exact, but close. (Note that ¼ thick Sheffield tangs do not have ¼ inch wedges).

When the wedge end is pinned, there should be about a ½ inch gap at the pivot end so that when pinned fully and look at from above the scales form a graceful bow, like a canoe.

For making your first set of scales, try horn. It is inexpensive, easy to work with hand tools and very strong. It can be made very thin and retain strength. It also finishes easily, sand to 1k and polish with any good metal polish for a high gloss.

Thick scales are awkward and difficult to strop properly. The width of the scales at the pivot is also crucial to comfort for stropping as is the addition of large collars for decoration. Copy a vintage set of scales for your first set, then experiment once you have made a few sets.

That some modern makers use flat spacers for convenience is not a good reason to discontinue an established practice that has many functions/benefits, and really, only takes a few minutes to accomplish.

I make lead wedges for most of my rescales from old wheel weights. A few hits with a hammer and some sanding on wet & dry and you have a wedge. Cut the wedge to rough shape, but do not grind to final shape until the wedge is fully pinned tight. This ensures a gap free fitting. Do not glue the wedge in place to allow for some adjustment when final fitting and centering of the blade.

I don’t think you would be happy stropping the scales posted, perhaps if you shaped and thinned them, but then you are really making a new set.

There are many good scale making tutorials.