Cheap Project Razor

[camoloc]

have a blade on the way.

I like the anchor on this.

making my own scales.

figured it was better to glue and pin the wedge with pins in to maintain correct alignment. wedge pin will get more work later on.......but it's in there and holding things together as the glue dries.

a lot more work to be done.....but have to hurry up and wait on the glue to dry.

I will have a total of $6.05 invested if nothing blows up or goes wrong by completion. scale making education.

camo

 

[camoloc]

have a blade on the way.

View attachment 1115443

I like the anchor in this.

View attachment 1115444

making my own scales.

View attachment 1115445

figured it was better to glue and pin the wedge with pins in to maintain correct alignment. wedge pin will get more work later on.......but it's in there and holding things together as the glue dries.

View attachment 1115446

a lot more work to be done.....but have to hurry up and wait on the glue to dry.

I will have a total of $6.05 invested if nothing blows up or goes wrong by completion. scale making education.

camo

will try to post more as she moves along. I cant wait to how the stain makes the wood pop. I will use my usual "Early American stain" which I'm very fond of.

camo

 

[global_dev]

Make sure your wedge has some angles that allow the scales to slight flare out away from the pivot rather than be 100% parallel to each other. Should be similar to tang shape/angle.

 

[camoloc]

Make sure your wedge has some angles that allow the scales to slight flare out away from the pivot rather than be 100% parallel to each other. Should be similar to tang shape/angle.

roger that. realized this a bit late.....but im not always sure this is would be what I want in all applications......

worst case scenario is this is spaced big like the Dovo Barbarossa shorty I have.

i dont have the blade yet. it lands monday. this is a learning one or first attempt. if I'm remotely happy with the result then I'll start eyeballing nice planks for future projects. from what I've pre scouted......the prices are very reasonable compared to the possible end result.

camo

 

[global_dev]

One of my biggest errors when learning to pin was having too long an extension for peening or going too tight on certain materials.

 

[camoloc]

as I expected.......looks outstandingly good to me!!!

believe this will work for my purposes. a coat or two more. poly......then wax....then good to go.

camo

 

[rbscebu]

I know that this is only a learning project for you, however be careful in the type of timber that you choose for scales. Certain timbers can more easily warp and swell in a humid environment.

 

[camoloc]

I know that this is only a learning project for you, however be careful in the type of timber that you choose for scales. Certain timbers can more easily warp and swell in a humid environment.

roger that....the wood I used is not high quality at all but will see......the poly coat will help some with that.

I've got a bigger problem......if the blade is longer than 4.25 inches I'll be starting over. most of my razors from around the general time period average 4.25.......but will see.

if I have to do it again im making the wedge out of plastic, delrin, or nylon. wood is too fragile when you get down to that thickness.

camo

 

[Jim99]

as I expected.......looks outstandingly good to me!!!

View attachment 1115519

believe this will work for my purposes. a coat or two more. poly......then wax....then good to go.

View attachment 1115520

camo

That looks great! The polyurethane should do a good job of sealing the wood.

 

[camoloc]

That looks great! The polyurethane should do a good job of sealing the wood.

thanks....

after evaluating this morn I think I can still make it work even if the blade is 4.5 inches. I have a wee bit of wiggle room at the end. if needed I can take about an 1/8 off the top of the wedge at angle (which I should have done anyway) with a nail emery fingernail board.

gonna wait to poly until after tommorow when the blade arrives. in case I need touch up work.

this seems like the best course of action to me.

camo

 

[Seveneighth]

roger that....the wood I used is not high quality at all but will see......the poly coat will help some with that.

I've got a bigger problem......if the blade is longer than 4.25 inches I'll be starting over. most of my razors from around the general time period average 4.25.......but will see.

if I have to do it again im making the wedge out of plastic, delrin, or nylon. wood is too fragile when you get down to that thickness.

camo

That's not a problem, it's an opportunity to buy another blade to fit the scales ...

 

[Suhrim21]

Looking good buddy. I need to learn how to make scales and peen and pin razors. The HESS 99 I have the pin on razor is way too tight. I need to redo it. I also have a few razors I want to make new scales for.

 

[ajkel64]

Looking good. Looking forward to seeing it when it is shave ready.

 

[camoloc]

Looking good. Looking forward to seeing it when it is shave ready.

thanks all. hopefully blade arrives today as scheduled. I was a little conservative with the cost. blade was $2.25.....shipping was more at 3 something.....I know most would say thats gotta be a crap blade......and it might be. experience tells me the older blades have pretty good steel. either way.....in the end.....its just a fun project razor.

camo

 

[global_dev]

Probably not crap, just previously unloved.

 

[rbscebu]

Older blades are generally good because they have been through the "mill", sorting the chaf out.

 

[camoloc]

its a John Forster/Hamburg Germany......no measurements were given but looks like a 5/8.

out for delivery!!!!

camo

 

[camoloc]

the blade arrived and I got it to fit.

problem with the blade though. it skinny's up moving from heel to toe.

by micrometer reading it goes:

heel .55"

mid .52"

toe .47"

I dont know if this was a repaired broken toe or poor honing. I see a lot of blades like these at the antique shops and always avoid them.

knocked some rust off before dremel battery tanked. forgot to charge....and thought it would have enough.

one part of me says abandon this blade.......the stubborn not quit in me says to hades with it and continue to sharpen after cleanup and polishing.

if it's not a chipped toe then a lot of dudes from the 20's thru the 50's honed their crap heavy on the toe.

what do you all think......I've never understood why I see this type of blade so frequently.

any thoughts on this are appreciated.

camo

 

[LJS]

It’s a pretty common thing to see and related to previous owner honing technique.

They generally hone fine if that is what you are asking. You can remove a lot of steel and try to correct it if you want but probably not worth that when you can just hone it as it is.

 

[rbscebu]

It was not uncommon for older blades to be made with a slight taper in blade width from heel to toe. Why, I don't know. Still, it shouldn't affect the shave quality.

If the spine thickness is constant from shoulder to point, the tapering blade width will give a variable bevel angle along the edge. This also should not be a problem provided the angle is within your acceptance.

I would say use this blade in your project. It should hone up well.