Car Washing Advice - Chemical Guys? Power Buffer?

[Toothpick]

Greetings!

I just purchased a new car. It’s black. I hate cleaning black cars.....

I was talking with a guy at work about waxing it before the winter and he stated that it probably has a protectant on it from the factory since it’s new. So do y’all think that’s true? And worth waxing before the winter?

I’m also curious what you all think of The Chemical Guys car products. I’ve always used Mothers but The Chemical guys stuff looks like it might be better. Maybe they just have a better marketing department.

Also, those of you that wax your cars....is the power buffer attachment for the drill worth it? What kind do you use if so.

Thanks!

 

[Toothpick]

I’ve got an orbital sander - would y’all suggesting using that for removing the wax and buffing? If so what pads?

 

[BrushJockey]

I’ve got an orbital sander - would y’all suggesting using that for removing the wax and buffing? If so what pads?

NO!!!
Too aggressive. Moves too fast. It will chew your paint. Dawn dish soap will take off wax.

 

[CincyDawg]

Black cars are really prone to swirls, etc. If there is a good detail shop nearby, it’d recommend getting it detailed and a good coating like cquartz applied. They are somewhat expensive but will last several years.

 

[Mr. Bonney]

I have used Maguiars products for years with great results. And they originally were an estate sale find for me. Saw a full bottle of car wash for like $2, and that's my price. lol

Search Results | Meguiar's

www.meguiars.com

Their waxes work well too.

About the only thing I'd like to change is go to de-ionized water. But I don't think the Mrs. will let me get one of the DIY units.

 

[shavefan]

Don't buff it, not needed unless there's swirl marks already. I can't answer if there is any kind of protectant on your new car, usually that's a dealer "up-sell", but a good wash with Dawn soap will strip most waxes off. Wash and dry carefully as to not introduce new swirl marks. The 2 bucket wash method works well.

Wax is best applied by hand IMO. Machine methods are more trouble than they're worth and can introduce even more swirls if youre not careful. Black paint shows every single paint flaw, so the more careful the better. I give our daily drivers a twice a year treatment, spring and fall. I use Collinite 845 wax, applied with a soft foam applicator. Wonderful stuff. Long lasting and super easy to apply/remove.

As to CG, they have some decent stuff but a lot of it is gimmicky and overpriced IMO. They certainly have marketing nailed down. That said, I do use their foam cannon car wash (Honeydew, I think its called).

 

[Toothpick]

That collinite is the stuff I was considering using. Never used a liquid wax though. Same application tho? Apply lightly, wait to get hazy and then wipe off I assume.

 

[ColtRevolver]

Collinite 845 is fantastic. Easy to apply. Easy to buff off....It is all you need on paint that is in good shape.

 

[shavefan]

That collinite is the stuff I was considering using. Never used a liquid wax though. Same application tho? Apply lightly, wait to get hazy and then wipe off I assume.

Yes, pretty much. The trick is to apply it very thin, too much and you'll waste time removing the excess. Liquids are a bit different in use though, the applicator pad, at first, will absorb most of the wax so to get a good even application the pad needs to be somewhat saturated. It's not difficult and the learning curve is short.

With 845 I apply a layer of wax to the whole vehicle before removing it, not one panel at a time. Then usually I wait a day and apply another coat just to make sure I didn't miss any spots.

Edit: A clay bar treatment on new car paint is generally a good idea, better than machine buffing/polishing.

 

[Toothpick]

A clay bar treatment on new car paint is generally a good idea, better than machine buffing/polishing

I suppose it doesn't hurt anything to leave the wax on once dry. but I always assumed it's harder to take off the longer it sits?

I also guess I'm confused by the steps. I thought removing the wax was the buffing/polishing part. But that's AFTER you remove the wax? So you go back over the car with a buffing pad? And polishing compound of sorts?

• Wax
• Remove wax
• yay!!

but it's more like

• Wax
• Remove Wax
• Buff/polish (use different product)
• yay!!

??

 

[shavefan]

I suppose it doesn't hurt anything to leave the wax on once dry. but I always assumed it's harder to take off the longer it sits?

I also guess I'm confused by the steps. I thought removing the wax was the buffing/polishing part. But that's AFTER you remove the wax? So you go back over the car with a buffing pad? And polishing compound of sorts?

• Wax
• Remove wax
• yay!!

but it's more like

• Wax
• Remove Wax
• Buff/polish (use different product)
• yay!!

??

Sorry if I was unclear. Steps would be...

1) Wash
2) clay bar*
3) wax
4) remove wax (final hand buff)

*Clay bar cleaning does not polish the paint but will remove imbedded contaminates in the paint. It will not scratch, deep cleans the paint and prepares it for wax. You would do the clay bar step after washing, before waxing. Clay bar is totally optional but a very good idea for new vehicles.

Removing wax (final buffing) should not be confused with polishing. Polishing is a whole other process.

Some wax formulas are extremely difficult to remove once completely dry, usually those with a high carnuba content. When I prep show cars with carnuba I do one panel at a time. With synthetic waxes or hybrids the removal process is much easier with no worry about them drying and being difficult to remove. Some wait hours for synthetic wax to 'dry' before buffing it off. I don't though.

 

[Toothpick]

I’ve heard of the clay bar and will do that. Now it makes sense! That’s a simple process that I’m trying to do. Wash, clay, wax. I know it can get a lot more intensive than that but for my needs I think the simple well maintained look is fine. Not an expensive car, not a show car, no garage to keep it sparkly clean and out of the weather. I just want it to look maintained.

Thanks!

 

[shavefan]

No problem Jason. One thing I left out, you may want to do another quick wash after claying to remove any leftover clay residue. This is optional but a good idea and doesn't add much time to the process.

Have fun with it and wait for a nice overcast day in the 70°'s to do this. Better for the car and easier on you.

So just to recap the supplies you'll need....

Dishwashing detergent for initial washing/stripping of old wax
Car wash liquid for maintenance washes
Microfiber car wash mitt(s)
Drying towel
Clay bar and lube/detail spray
Microfiber detailing cloths
Wax
Wax applicator(s)
Microfiber wax removal cloths

 

[njpaddy]

When I was 20, unmarried, with a brand new 66 LeMans, I washed it several times a week and waxed it 1-2x a month. Those days are a faded memory. Although I have a load of Maguiars and Mothers products in my basement, I don't have a garage and my driveway gets full sun, so it's a car wash for me.

The one thing I prefer to do myself are the windows, especially my wife's newer car. For windows, I like Invisible Glass. If the windshield is especially dirty, I'll first use glass cleaner, then a clay bar, then more glass cleaner. My 04 Accord, which isn't used much, is parked under a tree and the windshield is usually coated in aphid crap. A piece of clay bar does a great job of removing grit, grime and aphid crap on windows. For inside the front and rear windows of both cars, I use the Invisible Glass reach & clean tool. My 70+ yo body just won't bend like it used to and those tools make cleaning inside windows quick and easy.

For cleaning bird droppings on my wife's car, I spray on Mother's Showtime before wiping them off. I tried keeping some Drop Wipes in my wife's car, but they dried out too quick. With a black car you don't want to let those sit.

 

[Toothpick]

Bugs is another big issue for me. I drive home from work during prime time bug activity. Won’t be as bad in the winter but right now it’s horrible. Some night it sounds like it’s raining from all the bugs splattering. No idea what is the best for removing bugs.

For the windows I have been using dish soap and water. With the Magic Eraser. Wash the windows, scrub with Magic Eraser, wash again, and dry. The magic eraser does an excellent job on the windows. Can’t use it on the paint though!

 

[esswun]

I've been a hobbyist detailer a lot in my past but haven't had as much time as before. I like Adam's Polishes products (their detail spray is awesome!) and I use a Porter Cable 7424XP random orbit polisher with different pads for different stages. I wash, clay bar, wash again, use the polisher for swirl and haze removal, then polish, then polymer sealant.

A random orbital polisher like the one I mentioned won't harm the paint, but a rotary buffer will. Leave rotary to the pros who use them for serious paint correction (it spins so fast and the compunds they use "cut" more to where they are basically melting paint to remove swirls) because you will not do it well without training and experience.

This guy has some good detailing videos and this one i particular discusses the Porter Cable polisher.

 

[Scarry Knight]

My 13’s paint was very soft in the first year, but it was only a few weeks off the train when
purchased. I’d wait for any serious polishing or claying work, but certainly work gently to remove any rail dust or defects if you can now, rather than leaving them. Keep in mind though, that your paint may be somewhat soft yet, based on build date of course.

 

[Scarry Knight]

The newer spray on polymers like Croftgate USA Aqua-Nil and quick n slik are very good about ease of application and keeping bug residue able to be cleaned off easily. So much so that a gentle rain usually cleans the bug splatter off by itself.

 

[Senate515]

This is a whole can of worms. It likely has no protection new. Dealerships up sell things like sealant to customers. The next question is how thorough you want to be. Natural wax doesn’t last long but looks good, if you’re looking for protection through the winter look at a sealant (chemical guys makes jet seal) but there’s a lot of different brands. Someone mentioned a coating that’s an involved process of decontamination and polishing before applying it. Most people are just happy washing and then applying a wax or sealant. But it’s all comes down to what you’re willing to invest in time and/or money and how much or little you want to put into maintaining it after. My 60+ year old show car gets polishing with a buffer and wax, my everyday drivers get chemical iron remover, a clay bar and a sealant, and are infrequently polished. Your car being black will be more maintenance then say a white or silver car and never drive your black car through a car wash with brushes or you’ll need to polish it.


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[Toothpick]

I stopped taking my cars through the car wash years ago. I always had to finish drying or wash a spot that was missed. Figured I might as well just do it myself. I’ve only waxed twice though. A Carnauba wax. Just thought there has to be a better product or easier way to do it.