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ASP - ATG SINGLE PASS

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Getting closer to an ATG single pass shave with a RazoRock Mamba 0.53 razor. A lot of buffing is involved, but I’m getting better at using the cap to lift the stubble to the blade which is gentle when I get it righ.
 
Getting closer to an ATG single pass shave with a RazoRock Mamba 0.53 razor. A lot of buffing is involved, but I’m getting better at using the cap to lift the stubble to the blade which is gentle when I get it righ.
I had a Mamba .070 and recall the sweet spot was narrower than other razors. It was efficient and minimal buffing was required. Having used milder razors like the Mellon I automatically would go to less buffing and accept the DFS.

To me extra buffing required is a sure sign of going in the wrong direction. Finding and addressing the extra buffing issue is the way forward. Yesterday’s shave I knew before starting that my skin would not stand up to an ATG single pass. Two ultra light passes were used instead. Also pre shave oil used on the second pass. Very little buffing, I mean not much more than a dozen strokes. My BBS face shave is as close or maybe even a little tighter than usual. Trying to do a single pass would have doubled or tripled buffing strokes. My face skin wasn’t up to it.

I know you to be an explorer Thom. Shallow strokes on ANY razor are Less Efficient than steep. I don’t know about other ASP shavers but my shallow strokes used might be somewhere between 3- 5% of my strokes. Shallow strokes are incorrect for ASP shaves.

Mild razors are wrong for ASP shaves. Using a two pound hammer for a five pound hammer job. It will get the job done but all that extra hammering and noise. Not nice.

Of course in the end regardless of stroke it comes down to touch. If you prefer shallow you should be a DFS shaver. If you prefer steep BBS. The more you water down either side or type, the further you move from comfort.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
I get what you’re saying and it influenced last night’s shave, but the buffing at the low angle is different than the same at a shallow or steeper angle.

Low-angle buffing is less efficient than strokes at steeper angles, but it’s a method of pushing on the skin to raise the stubble to the blade instead of lowering the blade to the skin to get the hair. It’s an “as long as the mechanic is done right, friction from the razor’s cap is the skin’s biggest insult” type of thing. The first sentence fragment being a hyooj caveat. Razors with more blade exposure; such as the Fatip Grande; likely do the same job better like they do in more common shallow-through-steep blade presentations.
 
I get what you’re saying and it influenced last night’s shave, but the buffing at the low angle is different than the same at a shallow or steeper angle.

Low-angle buffing is less efficient than strokes at steeper angles, but it’s a method of pushing on the skin to raise the stubble to the blade instead of lowering the blade to the skin to get the hair. It’s an “as long as the mechanic is done right, friction from the razor’s cap is the skin’s biggest insult” type of thing. The first sentence fragment being a hyooj caveat. Razors with more blade exposure; such as the Fatip Grande; likely do the same job better like they do in more common shallow-through-steep blade presentations.
The more buffing you do the less more your shave is. The point I was trying to make is use the right stroke for the shave you are accomplishing. If you are a BBS shaver you should have very few buffing strokes. If you are a DFS shaver (if I were a daily shaver it would be a 100% DFS. For me.) the buffing should be about the same. What helped me in the last year I think in terms of skin comfort. Dudes with normal skin do not have skin issues. Only technical issues. If you do not have a finished shave that you can rate as very comfortable, above average, sublime. Try thinking your shave in terms of skin comfort Not Closeness.

If you think about it terms of comfort you may make changes to your routine. Shaving ten different ways is a lot of fun, for some. It will never get you consistent above average comfort. (Where I live) Using FF is a major advantage. I only have to improve on four items not ten or fifteen. I only have to refine a single short stroke. (The only stroke I use) I only shave BBS. Not a combo hybrid. The fewer things you have to improve upon the easier your shave is.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
The low-angle shaving with buffing was pretty comfortable and getting moreso as I improved. More content using the razor that way than using a shallow or neutral angle where the neutral exposure always had me wanting more.
 

January 28​


Twelfth fixed-four weekly shave. Three days to scratch off January. Sabbatical success continues. Ground Hog soon to meet Boar Hog.


Grande & Feather
Zenith B-35 Boar
Saponificio Varesino Tundra Artica

Fixed four Fridays. A seven day growth seems to have lost a bit of length. Beard training? Big boar is gaining softnesses. Beautiful soap and lathering pleasures. I am refining skin stretch/flattening and expanding it to the head shave. The concentrated effort slowed the shave down considerably. Strokes became more deliberate. Allowing me to lighten pressure, closeness and comfort improved. In my shave experience. Highest efficiencies achieve highest comfort. The Grande & Feather felt like they found an overdrive gear. Not faster, a comfort glide kind of smoothness. Excellent face and head shave.

I will continue to work on refining skin stretch/flattening. A larger than expected improvement. I enjoyed my one pass shave slowing down. I played with lather more than I needed to.
Exploring shaves continues to be fun and enjoyable.

Happy Shaves Gents

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Minimalism Back to the Future


2022 is my third year in B&B, DE shaving, and my return to minimalism. Entering DE shaving from carts I was a minimalist. I had a badger brush, a Harry’s razor and two or three soaps.

A Kaleidoscopic expansion of many wet shaving products and equipment was needed to get to a Fixed Four. That took two and a half years. No one can try everything. Finding best suited products and equipment for my shave was rewarding and fun. Early DE shaving brought excitement and adventure always moving toward shaving efficiency. The three pass face and head shave was reduced to an ATG Single Pass Shave.

Sensitive Skin. My non existent pre and post shaves were introduced. Refined they are the biggest part of my shave in time and prep. They allow and support consistent very close, very comfortable shaves.

Minimalism to me is about Efficiency, more than anything else. My shaving experience has been. Highest Efficiency always delivers Highest Comfort. My goal. On going refinement. Stroke Count.

A good efficient vehicle is the cornerstone. Comfort morphing into luxurious shaves is the trip plan.

My Fixed Four Kit
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My fixed four shaves are weekly. Four shaves for January. 48 shaves to go for 2022. I continue to explore and refine my shaves. Reducing Shave Strokes. Minimalism.
 
February 4

Thirteenth fixed-four weekly shave. Fifth 2022 shave. Sabbatical success continues.

Ground Hog was benevolent with a swing and a miss. Another winter storm roars past with intermittent sun and a few light flurries.

Grande & Feather
Zenith B-35 Boar
Saponificio Varesino Felce Aromatics

Skin Stretching/Flattening my main focus. Big Boar enchantment continues. Slowing the shave down. Contemplative smooth, gliding, strokes. Withdrawing blade to skin pressure. Strokes screaming towards weightlessness. Slowing a one pass shave down has improved closeness and comfort in my stroke. As they say everything worked as well as last week only better. I have given up the one pass on my neck. Two lighter passes provide better closeness and comfort. Face & head continue to remain single pass. I guess it’s a hybrid one pass or something shave. Most important it was an enjoyable, comfortable close shave.

I will be finishing the Felce Aromatica this year. First item to be replaced next year. The sabbatical will still hold strong with two SV tins left and 47 shaves to go for the year.

Happy Shaves

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February 11

Fourteenth fixed-four weekly shave. Sixth 2022 shave. Purchase Sabbatical, success continues.

Grande & Feather
Zenith B-35 Boar
Saponificio Varesino Cosmo

Shaves improving in a steady fashion of comfort and enjoyment. A Seventh Day Shaver is starting to suit me. I have always tried to maintain a dogma within my shaves. Minimalism and a Fixed Four absolutely dogmatic. My path to happiness.
My effort to lighten a Feather continues. Shaves are closer with a higher level of post skin comfort. I did use alum on my neck and face. Slightest warmth on my largest sensitive neck area. The head shave remains a single pass. Skin flattening improved closeness with above average skin comfort. Alum not required on the head shave. The fixed four kit is returning dividends, my touch has lightened. Skin comfort is the best I’ve had. I have had six great shaves this year and look forward to the remaining 46.

Happy Shaves

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February 18

Fifteenth fixed-four weekly shave. Seventh 2022 shave. Purchase Sabbatical, success continues.

Grande & Feather
Zenith B-35 Boar
Saponificio Varesino Tundra Artica

Todays shave I have gone too a Two Pass ATG face shave. Adding the second pass eliminates all but a few buffing strokes. Luxurious lathering extends an excellent trade off with improved closenesses. Head shaves remain ATG Single Pass. Skin flattening has improved head shave closeness. My strokes vary markedly in pressure and speed. Three completely different skin zones requiring technique adjustments in speed and pressure. Fixed Four presenting challenges in refinement. Chasing excellence.

Sub zero temperatures this week had me slathering on moisturizer over my sensitive neck skin areas. Prioritizing skin health elevated my shaves in closeness and comfort. Staying the course. “Diventare completamento.” Predictability, repeatability ”Lusso

I love my shaves and wish they were more often. They feel so good. Friday afternoons my favourite part of the week. Relaxation and comfort start with a pre shower. Post shave incorporates skin nourishment and increases skin comfort. A disinfected oiled Feather blade, locked and loaded into a gleaming, polished Grande. Waiting…….


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See you next Friday, Happy Shaves
 
February 25

Sixteenth fixed-four weekly shave. Eighth 2022 shave. Purchase 2022 Sabbatical, success continues.

Grande & Feather
Zenith B-35 Boar
Saponificio Varesino Cosmo

A fond farewell to February’s ground hog. Last shave of the month. The kit a pleasure to use. The Fixed Four has established a rhythm, heightening relaxation. Shaving fun, stroking towards excellence. Fewer shaves with comfort and enjoyment. Less more can be good, if it ain’t your wages.

My shave always exploring comfort. I went back to an ATG single pass face shave. Two passes for neck. The second neck pass I used pre shave oil. Lube and glide is where it’s at for me. Head shaves are closer. Binky assisted skin flattening improves with each shave. A fabulous face and head shave.

Last weeks shave I thought the big boar crossed over that nice comfort line. Confirmation with todays lathering, superb. Luxurious softness between a badger two band and a silvertip. I love this brush. I will soon post a glowing review. My hardest decision in the four. I got lucky and the brush has exceeded expectations.


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All tuned up. Looking forward to; FFFMM (Fixed Four For March Madness) 2022 Edition.
Fixed-Four. For four March shaves.
See you in March. Shaving hare. 🐰
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
For a wee spot of time, Colonel Ichabod Conk included an unscented, glycerin soap in their “Natural” line of shaving products. It didn’t sell well - a common fate of unscented soaps and creams - and left the scene before I set aside cartridge razors and bar soap for my current addiction.

Thankfully, the last d00d named Mike who worked Col Conk’s socials said he could hook me up with some unsold pucks if I’d use their web store to treat myself to one of their V2 soaps. Their V2 glycerin soaps are slicker than their Unscented Shave Soap and the Bay Rum version doesn’t light up my skin like PAA’s Atomic Age Bay Rum did.

@GBerry analyzed my journal and saw less references to nicks, burns, or what has one than when I used my favorite soap (ARKO!) or the posh stuff from Stirling, so I thought it would be nice to use this soap again when I put some other soaps on hiatus. He also mentioned it’s better to stick with a soap instead of jumping from whim to whim. Yes, he wasn’t the only one.

So I‘ve been using the Col Conk Unscented and have noticed using a fair amount of swirls and a generous amount of water with a mixture of scrubbing and painting brushwork has been letting me consistently get comfortable, close-enough shaves in one and one quarter passes or less.

Progress doesn’t happen with soap alone.

@JoWolf mentioned the efficiency of steep angled shaving to me recently as I was trying to perfect the low-angle shaving technique. It’s more efficient than low-angle shaving (as done by me, not people with better technique), but I wasn’t getting the hang of it and would remove more stubble per stroke, but left sharper stubble behind.

So I went from low-angle shaving to shallow-angle shaving and it was still less efficient than it could be, but it was more comfortable. All things considered, increased comfort is worth the drudgery of reapplying some more lather. Incompletely cut stubble was regrowing as what I call curlbacks which also happens when shaving at steep and low angles as well, so there was increased comfort, but I wanted more of everything.

So I read and I asked and cognified over and over. And my angle started getting a wee bit steeper, but still feeling a bit of the cap on my skin. Practically neutral.

The most blade feel I could get with the edge on the correct side of my skin.

A lightbulb moment.

With the maximum blade feel and the fairly hydrated glycerin soap lather, I can feel the blade slipping under the whiskers. Not everywhere and not all the time, but more than I was before. And my shaves were more comfortable and quicker — usually closer — and less curlbacks than when I’d shave steeper or shallower.

Hoping the angle is more important than the glycerin soap as I’d like to use some more posh soaps and get back to the ARKO! when the rest of the stash is consumed, but melt-and-pour glycerin soap base is easily obtained.
 
@thombrogan
Sounds like you are exploring the different shave angles available, Inevitably you’ll go steep if you shave towards BBS. Shallow angle is best suited to DFS shaves. I used and am familiar with all angles. I shave as steep as possible as much as possible. I would say it took me about a year and half on my journey with the Grande. Needing to go to a sharp single use Feather was obvious. Everything else slowed the razor down. Noticeably so. When used blades are slowing your strokes down you are on the threshold of the exciting performance.

My shaves have become closer again, while maintaining good or better comfort. The last improvement on closenesses and comfort are 90% skin prep and skin maintenance. My pre and post shave routines are the majority of my shave time. Everybody has to figure out their own by trial and error. People who do not have skin issues or aren’t BBS shavers can happily shave DFS with very little extra effort.

Thom following your shaves I get the impression that you are a BBS shaver. What doesn’t make sense to me is a BBS daily shaver. A good BBS shave can not be shaved the following day. That’s one of the reasons for my 7-day. And in my own mind all the reason to shave even closer. Which I do. You presently are not shaving BBS because you shave daily. What would you call your shave?

My personal opinion BBS is way over the top. Try getting that through to me when I have a shave instrument in my hand. Resisting a BBS is harder than slashing through one for me. OCD

Your lathering is a drudgery with your fine new brushes. Brought a tear to my eye. Lathering is the opportunity to enjoy Pure Luxury in your shave. No other part of the shave can be more luxurious than lathering. ALL my shaves including years of cart shaving had luxurious lathering. 100%+ pure luxurious lathering now. No reason not to.

I did not find it difficult to use Vito’s exclusively for a year. Entry level soaps, Vito’s, Williams, Arko are excellent soaps to Refine and develop your lathering skills. Yes you have to stay put and not jump around. These are great soaps but they do not make it into the luxury class.

The one and only shocker to me arriving at B&B. Soap and lathering. Albeit I had been lathering for thirty plus years before I got here. It is not difficult. Brush, soap, water, agitation. Too many think there is some hocus pocus or magical way. Its simple and basic. Don’t over think it.
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Hi, @JoWolf !

Two things for me to clarify:

1. I’m not a BBS shaver. Close, but not that close. Every shave of late is getting more comfortable with maintained or improved closeness while still falling short or BBS.

2. Face-lathering is quick, easy, and enjoyable for me with synthetic and boar brushes. Probably will be with the horse brush when whatever made it irritating to me is washed out. Bowl lathering is another tale and only a curiosity. My Silvertip badger brush is magic and it scares me.

Right now, a fairly neutral angle is treating my skin better than a steep, shallow, or very shallow. When that changes, I’ll find a new a angle.
 
Hi, @JoWolf !

Two things for me to clarify:

1. I’m not a BBS shaver. Close, but not that close. Every shave of late is getting more comfortable with maintained or improved closeness while still falling short or BBS.

2. Face-lathering is quick, easy, and enjoyable for me with synthetic and boar brushes. Probably will be with the horse brush when whatever made it irritating to me is washed out. Bowl lathering is another tale and only a curiosity. My Silvertip badger brush is magic and it scares me.

Right now, a fairly neutral angle is treating my skin better than a steep, shallow, or very shallow. When that changes, I’ll find a new a angle.
It sounds and feels good when everything comes together. Shaves are more relaxed at that time.
 
March 4

Thank You @Cal A fun thread and a great place to fine tune our shaves. FFFMM 2022


Seventeenth fixed-four weekly shave. Ninth 2022 shave. Purchase 2022 Sabbatical, success continues.
Two years of searching. My Fixed Four was selected for a return to minimalism. Counting my weekly shaves until I reach 52. A Fixed Four Minimalistic with creds.

Grande & Feather
Zenith B-35 Boar
Saponificio Varesino Felce Aromatica

Weekly face & head shaves, I continue to search for refinements in all aspects of my shaves. Latest target, skin flattening, a bigger than expected success with closeness. Slowing the shaves down has added relaxation increasing shave enjoyment.

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Happy Shaves
 
March 11 FFFMM 2022

Grande & Feather
Zenith B-35 Boar
Saponificio Varesino Felce Aromatica

Eighteenth fixed-four shave. Smooth, close, comfortable shaves. A weekly pleasure.

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Purchase Sabbatical 2022. Success continues.

Happy Shaves
 
March 18

Grande & Feather
Zenith B-35 Boar
Saponificio Varesino Felce Aromatica

Nineteenth fixed-four shave. Smooth, close, comfortable shaves. A weekly pleasure.

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Purchase Sabbatical 2022. Success continues.

Happy Shaves
 

thombrogan

Lounging On The Isle Of Tugsley.
Had great success last night with a lather using more soap and holding even more water than usual. Steep angle on a GEM Micromatic Open Comb and barely any stubble remained. What little did was on my upper lip and was still well trimmed albeit not BBS.
 
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