A newbie’s journey into DE shaving

[LRod]

so if necessary I tend to take the hit after careful evaluation of course.

My careful evaluation is typically futile and I usually end up taking the hit
Seriously, it all depends as you say. If something is exclusive in another country (i.e., the Reggie's Jupiter razor that I just ordered), I have to pay whatever it costs if I really want it.
But sometimes certain items are cheaper coming this way:
The Merkur Progress and Futur I ordered, cheaper from Portugal!
The Executive shaving outlaw, way cheaper from the UK than buying it here under the Alpha brand name!
The Hone 15a, Only available through Hone in the Netherlands. On this side you can get the 15s from the Razor company but it's crazy expensive. Even that one would be cheaper ordered direct!
And another classic example is buying blades & other items from Connaught in the UK.
The Personna Gem's are made here and get shipped to the UK. Then we buy them and they get shipped back here to the USA and they're cheaper than when purchased locally. It's absolutely nuts!

 

[Guido75]

My careful evaluation is typically futile and I usually end up taking the hit

My thoughts went in that direction when I typed that line! When it comes to shaving my evaluation mechanism seems to misfire for some reason…whatchamacallit…ah!…emotions!

 

[BigAlVista]

The Canadian health care is excellent if you are a Canadian Mark. With all due respect. Canadians travelling and vacationing in your beautiful country would never consider crossing the border without a health care policy for the USA. Your hospital charges are indicative of your Canadian hospital experience. On top of that our dollar is usually less than eighty cents US.

On a different note it is difficult for Canadians to buy US products. Especially smaller items. Notwithstanding the exchange with shipping and border duties not unusual to exceed the price of the purchase. Free trade is a very loose expression.

Excellent points. An extra insurance policy never even occurred to me. I had thought my out of pocket benefits would have sufficed. Live and learn.

I did not realize that there was so much duty on US goods. Nafta didn't address that?

 

[Guido75]

I did not realize that there was so much duty on US goods. Nafta didn't address that?

I am not very familiar with NAFTA stipulations myself but I know that the agreements with EU do not prevent taxes from being invoiced - including taxes and duties on gifts. Sometimes more sometimes less or even nothing at all with absolutely zero bearing on why how and what.

Guido

 

[Guido75]

Date	10.04.2024
366 daily shaves	101/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Flat Bottom Tech	Lord Cool (3)	Abe’s Brush Works Big Oak G5C
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	Mike’s Natural Soaps Barbershop (83)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality (details here)	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)	5/10 (Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
7.5/10 (DFS)	6.5/10 (Harshishly comfortable)

Notes:

Summary. Marginally better than yesterday in end result, but I had a wonderful time using this Tech.

Razor and blade. The blade is still performing and I believe it’s also still sharp. What I have noticed is that stubble is never completely gone. So while sharp I cannot get really close - and this is true across several razors with this blade. So I decreased sharpness to a 5. The razor is bliss. It doesn’t get better than this. One of those razors that I would love to have started out with has I done better research. Superb quality build and delivering excellent results including today. Wonderful.

Brush and lather. I think the G5C is my favourite Abe brush at the moment. Great knot, super easy to load and produces a very nice slick and consistent lather. Superb handle.

Technique. Steady as she goes. This pattern just works for me and I want to see if I can increase its results. XTG-Slanted is turning into somewhat of a money shot and technically I could stop at CCS+/DFS there if it wasn’t for the fact that I like it as smooth as possible.

 

[BigAlVista]

I am not very familiar with NAFTA stipulations myself but I know that the agreements with EU do not prevent taxes from being invoiced - including taxes and duties on gifts. Sometimes more sometimes less or even nothing at all with absolutely zero bearing on why how and what.

Guido

So much for free trade, indeed!

 

[BigAlVista]

Date	10.04.2024
366 daily shaves	101/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Flat Bottom Tech	Lord Cool (3)	Abe’s Brush Works Big Oak G5C
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	Mike’s Natural Soaps Barbershop (83)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality (details here)	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)	5/10 (Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
7.5/10 (DFS)	6.5/10 (Harshishly comfortable)

Notes:

Summary. Marginally better than yesterday in end result, but I had a wonderful time using this Tech.

Razor and blade. The blade is still performing and I believe it’s also still sharp. What I have noticed is that stubble is never completely gone. So while sharp I cannot get really close - and this is true across several razors with this blade. So I decreased sharpness to a 5. The razor is bliss. It doesn’t get better than this. One of those razors that I would love to have started out with has I done better research. Superb quality build and delivering excellent results including today. Wonderful.

Brush and lather. I think the G5C is my favourite Abe brush at the moment. Great knot, super easy to load and produces a very nice slick and consistent lather. Superb handle.

Technique. Steady as she goes. This pattern just works for me and I want to see if I can increase its results. XTG-Slanted is turning into somewhat of a money shot and technically I could stop at CCS+/DFS there if it wasn’t for the fact that I like it as smooth as possible.

Great review, as always.

 

[Guido75]

Great review, as always.

Thanks Mark!

 

[JoWolf]

Excellent points. An extra insurance policy never even occurred to me. I had thought my out of pocket benefits would have sufficed. Live and learn.

I did not realize that there was so much duty on US goods. Nafta didn't address that?

I’m holding my breath this morning Mark. Waiting on my delivery today. About ten years ago I purchased a pair of sweatpants from Lands End. The cotton on many US clothes items is far superior to anything I can get around here. I continue to enjoy wearing those sweats which are more comfortable and outlasted about three or four others not even close to the same quality as Lands End. Waiting for a delivery this morning from Florida. I tried FortheFit on a pair of their sweats. They were on sale $68.00 US. I guess I misread the offer on free shipping that is an added $20.00 US. In the past some of my US orders under $100.00 had come through without any brokerage duty at the border. Not this time. UPS sent a bill for $41.00 Cnd. Border brokerage duty. I don’t know what the $88.00 US will be on my card after exchange is added. I have over $120.00 Cnd spent so far. If the quality is there I’ll be satisfied with the purchase. My US Chiseled Face Titanium shave handle was cheaper than the shipping, duty and exchange added on. No complaints I love the handle. I couldn’t get anything elsewhere close to the specs I required. Exchange, shipping, and duty are the combination that kills many purchases. Shipping and duty increased after COVID. So if NAFTA is in there it is not helping the bottom line. It is difficult to buy USA with the increased added costs. Oh the weight on the sweats is recorded as .9 lbs.

 

[Guido75]

I remember a time when I saw a great deal on two books from the US that were both virtually unobtainium for bargain prices. And they were bargain prices indeed so I was a happy bunny. Until the postman delivered my books and handed me an invoice for duties and taxes (on second hand items mind you) at which point the books just had to be “really good” to justify their purchase. I keep reminding myself they are…

Hence my excitement when a Blackbird presented itself in the Netherlands rather than an international location. That certainly saved on delivery, import and taxes!

 

[BigAlVista]

I’m holding my breath this morning Mark. Waiting on my delivery today. About ten years ago I purchased a pair of sweatpants from Lands End. The cotton on many US clothes items is far superior to anything I can get around here. I continue to enjoy wearing those sweats which are more comfortable and outlasted about three or four others not even close to the same quality as Lands End. Waiting for a delivery this morning from Florida. I tried FortheFit on a pair of their sweats. They were on sale $68.00 US. I guess I misread the offer on free shipping that is an added $20.00 US. In the past some of my US orders under $100.00 had come through without any brokerage duty at the border. Not this time. UPS sent a bill for $41.00 Cnd. Border brokerage duty. I don’t know what the $88.00 US will be on my card after exchange is added. I have over $120.00 Cnd spent so far. If the quality is there I’ll be satisfied with the purchase. My US Chiseled Face Titanium shave handle was cheaper than the shipping, duty and exchange added on. No complaints I love the handle. I couldn’t get anything elsewhere close to the specs I required. Exchange, shipping, and duty are the combination that kills many purchases. Shipping and duty increased after COVID. So if NAFTA is in there it is not helping the bottom line. It is difficult to buy USA with the increased added costs. Oh the weight on the sweats is recorded as .9 lbs.

That's crazy. We don't seem to have (much) duty on Canadian goods, at least as far as I can tell. Is Canada trying to protect its labor force from lower cost foreign manufacturing? I did not realize how significant the tariffs were

 

[BigAlVista]

I remember a time when I saw a great deal on two books from the US that were both virtually unobtainium for bargain prices. And they were bargain prices indeed so I was a happy bunny. Until the postman delivered my books and handed me an invoice for duties and taxes (on second hand items mind you) at which point the books just had to be “really good” to justify their purchase. I keep reminding myself they are…

Hence my excitement when a Blackbird presented itself in the Netherlands rather than an international location. That certainly saved on delivery, import and taxes!

What is the basis for determining the tarrifs? Original list price? Price paid, plus some schedule?

 

[Balin]

That's crazy. We don't seem to have (much) duty on Canadian goods, at least as far as I can tell. Is Canada trying to protect its labor force from lower cost foreign manufacturing? I did not realize how significant the tariffs were

This from Canadian Border Services

Under CUSMA , Canada has agreed to maintain a de minimis threshold of at least CAD$150.00 for customs duties, and CAD$40.00 for taxes, at the time or point of importation of goods shipped by courier from the United States or Mexico.

In Ontario we pay Harmonized Sales Tax of 13%.

The US de minus is $800 USD before you have pay duties.

 

[BigAlVista]

This from Canadian Border Services

Under CUSMA , Canada has agreed to maintain a de minimis threshold of at least CAD$150.00 for customs duties, and CAD$40.00 for taxes, at the time or point of importation of goods shipped by courier from the United States or Mexico.

In Ontario we pay Harmonized Sales Tax of 13%.

The US de minus is $800 USD before you have pay duties.

Ouch. Crazy

 

[Guido75]

What is the basis for determining the tarrifs? Original list price? Price paid, plus some schedule?

A little of all Mark. They use the paid invoice (can be the original price if new or your price if second hand) + shipping = taxable amount for VAT. Below €150 no import fees above it import fees. VAT is also taxed over these fees. And then there are handling fees by the postal services for receiving your international package and doing the customs declaration for you.

Cheers,

Guido

 

[Guido75]

Date	10.04.2024
366 daily shaves	102/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Canadian Tech	Lord Cool (4)	Abe’s Brush Works Saturn Synbad
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	Mike’s Natural Soaps Barbershop (84)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality (details here)	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)	5/10 (Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
8/10 (DFS+)	6.5/10 (Harshishly comfortable)

Notes:

Summary. Excellent shave with the Canadian Tech - it is probably just my imagination, but I think this Tech combines the best of the best in terms of comfort and effectiveness. Wonderful shave!

Razor and blade. The blade continues to perform, but still there is a harshness or burning sensation to my skin post shave - even though my post shave routine is exactly the same. So it's both a good and bad blade in one weirdly enough. The razor is a dream - thanks Kim @Phoenixkh for your question, because otherwise I would have used a New SC today. It is effective yet smooth and comfortable. With a different blade this would have been a stellar shave I imagine. It is also the best shave I have had with this blade so far. Funny thing though is that Kim got his C-Tech from the Netherlands. I got my C-Tech from Canada. So two Techs went travelling around the world.

Brush and lather. The Synbad is a soft and floppy brush, but a wonder to use. Face lathering might require slightly more attention because of it and painting lather on is excellent. Mike's is going strong. I weighted the puck again yesterday and my average usage seems to have decreased somewhat - so with some conservatism I would say another 150-180 shaves is possible. This is possibly going to last until September.

Technique. Consistent and almost carbon copy. Combination of razor and blade could be better and I am accounting that to the blade.

 

[Guido75]

Date	11.04.2024
366 daily shaves	103/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Tech postwar	Lord Cool (5)	Abe’s Brush Works Smokey Bandit
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	Mike’s Natural Soaps Barbershop (85)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality (details here)	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)	5/10 (Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
8/10 (DFS+)	7.5/10 (Comfortably smooth)

Notes:

Summary. On a Tech streak this week and this brings out the post war for a splendid Friday shave.

Razor and blade. Five shaves in this blade has potential I must say, but there is this lingering for something more. Surprisingly enough it felt less harsh today. And the razor is basically the same with minor variations, so interesting experience. The razor is the all brass heavy ball end UK Tech although I have used one of my @lasta handles. Using this razor earlier I actually think this is the most effective/aggressive of the Techs I have - but with this blade it is more on par with the other Techs and feels similar to the C-Tech I used yesterday.

Brush and lather. Great face lathering with the SilkSmoke knot. This one comes closest to my Plissoft blissful brushes (used my Big Brush for my head shave yesterday - fabulous!). I have been concentrating on my face lathering with more focus and I belief this additional focus gives my beard even more prep than usual. And it’s just wonderful to face lather!

Technique. No deviations from the best pattern today. Well…on the left side that it. Right side was XATG twice and no WTG to see if it made a difference and next to the fact that I feel very little difference in end result I do think WTG on the first pass is just more convenient to my skin.

 

[Guido75]

Date	12.04.2024
366 daily shaves	104/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Old Type	Lord Cool (6)	Razorock Beehive
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	Mike’s Natural Soaps Barbershop (86)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality (details here)	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)	5/10 (Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
8.25/10 (DFS++)	7.5/10 (Comfortably smooth)

Notes:

Summary. Again slightly better performance from the blade. The Old Type is the mother of all open combs. Wow!

Razor and blade. Another fine shave with the Cool blade. It is starting to go in upper directions of the charts, but I am still taken back by the harsher feeling post shave. Aftershave sting was less today I noticed as it was yesterday, but other days were more intense. I don’t mind a burn at all, but I have my preference for the level of burn! Easily double digits of I wanted to. Better than ASCO? I remember those to be smoother or more comfortable. Not sure. Need to check my notes. The Old Type thumbup: Mitch @mgweatherly) is a mammoth in terms of effectiveness and pretty blade agnostic. What a razor! Blade feel feels larger than my Blackbird and stubble just melts away. I paired the razor with my @lasta red marble handle today - wonderfully balanced and nimble. Love it!

Brush and lather. Although I am almost exclusively using my dad’s brushes in April I took the Beehive out in support of @Balin - sending you loads of positive energy bro! The brush was of course amazing as was his gifter. Superb lather. I wanted to go on and in face lathering.

Technique. Nothing to report other than that I have been having amazing shaves lately after returning to my beard growth pattern.

 

[mgweatherly]

Date	12.04.2024
366 daily shaves	104/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Old Type	Lord Cool (6)	Razorock Beehive
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	Mike’s Natural Soaps Barbershop (86)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality (details here)	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)	5/10 (Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
8.25/10 (DFS++)	7.5/10 (Comfortably smooth)

Notes:

Summary. Again slightly better performance from the blade. The Old Type is the mother of all open combs. Wow!

Razor and blade. Another fine shave with the Cool blade. It is starting to go in upper directions of the charts, but I am still taken back by the harsher feeling post shave. Aftershave sting was less today I noticed as it was yesterday, but other days were more intense. I don’t mind a burn at all, but I have my preference for the level of burn! Easily double digits of I wanted to. Better than ASCO? I remember those to be smoother or more comfortable. Not sure. Need to check my notes. The Old Type thumbup: Mitch @mgweatherly) is a mammoth in terms of effectiveness and pretty blade agnostic. What a razor! Blade feel feels larger than my Blackbird and stubble just melts away. I paired the razor with my @lasta red marble handle today - wonderfully balanced and nimble. Love it!

Brush and lather. Although I am almost exclusively using my dad’s brushes in April I took the Beehive out in support of @Balin - sending you loads of positive energy bro! The brush was of course amazing as was his gifter. Superb lather. I wanted to go on and in face lathering.

Technique. Nothing to report other than that I have been having amazing shaves lately after returning to my beard growth pattern.

Everyone needs to have at least one Old Type

 

[Guido75]

Date	14.04.2024
366 daily shaves	105/366

Razor	Blade	Brush
Gillette Super Adjustable 109	Lord Cool (7)	Abe's Brush Works Blutt STF
Preshave	Soap	Postshave
Cold splash KCG Face Wash	Mike’s Natural Soaps Barbershop (87)	Cold splash Proraso Green Balm

Passes	WTG XTG ATG and touch up
Process Quality (details here)	Blade Sharpness
10/10 (Clean)	5/10 (Sharp)
Effectiveness	Shave Comfort
8/10 (DFS+)	7.5/10 (Comfortably smooth)

Notes:

Summary. Remembering my father-in-law today. Can´t believe it's 8 years already.

Razor and blade. This is a departure from Vintage April, but when I want something to remember I bring out my SA109 - it is the most special razor I have as it is my birth quarter razor very kindly gifted by @Curly Straight. It is in mint condition (which I cannot say about the equally aged owner!) and I always have great shaves with it. This is the final shave with the Cool blade and I must admit that the last few shaves were very nice. I think I will revisit the blade in due time to explore it some more. This Sunday shave was a smooth performance.

Brush and lather. Splendid lather today using my dad’s purplewood. Fabulous brush with just the right grip.

Technique. Carbon copies this week and therefore(?) carbon copy results as well.