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3D RAZOR STAND

I just received a 3D plastic razor stand for 5 razors which I purchased from NortonCustomDesign on Etsy. This stand was made per my specifications and can be modified to fit your needs also. The stand is secured by 2 screws and can hold nearly any razor. This makes my razor den much neater and more manageable.
I thought this would be a good item for this forum to consider. I have no interest financial or otherwise in this company.
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Norton Custom Design has just release a new version of the razor stand.
What makes the stand different from others is that the stand is designed to lean a fraction to the rear. Also, it is designed to allow the razors to remain in place without the possibility of rotating and hitting the razor next to it. Best of all, the height of the stands is designed to allow the heads of the razors to remain open just enough to allow air to dry the heads. This is just a perfect stand. I am sure that upon request, Zach can accommodate customized requests for color, and number of razors.
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I'm going to be honest here, I really like the design but the extrusion caused by the 3d printer makes it look horrible. 8k 3d printers do a much better job.
 
I’m sorry but I have no idea. I’m sure that information is on his Etsy page. I just liked the way it looked and it is very secure and holds the razors perfectly.
Oh no trouble at all! I actually just looked and it is indeed PETG. In case you were curious, PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) is actually a cousin to the plastic they use in soda bottles. I’m into 3D printing, and I’ve designed some singular stands for my razors. It definitely is a very nice stand; it’s really nice how it holds your many different varieties of razors!
 
Oh no trouble at all! I actually just looked and it is indeed PETG. In case you were curious, PETG (Polyethylene terephthalate glycol) is actually a cousin to the plastic they use in soda bottles. I’m into 3D printing, and I’ve designed some singular stands for my razors. It definitely is a very nice stand; it’s really nice how it holds your many different varieties of razors!
Thank you. For the short handle razors, Norton can send some stand adaptors that fit snuggly into the base and allows the razor handle to rest on the adaptor and fit the stand perfectly. You will see them on the Progress and the Blackbird razors in the picture.
 
I have no idea what that means but I would guess it will cost more than this stand. My guess!
3D printing is becoming an old piece of tech, it's great for certain projects but those lines are horrible. Usually they do sand them with sandpaper and use some other tricks to make it shiny so it looks like it was done by an injection mold. New 3d printing techniques, 8k resin printing has better printing abilities.
 
3D printing is becoming an old piece of tech, it's great for certain projects but those lines are horrible. Usually they do sand them with sandpaper and use some other tricks to make it shiny so it looks like it was done by an injection mold. New 3d printing techniques, 8k resin printing has better printing abilities.
Euro, I absolutely believe you, I just don't understand any of it. :)
 
I like the first one better than the second. The top of the second one just looks too busy. I have found test tube racks to work nicely also. Currently using one similar to this for some of mine. Not a bad solution for 13 razors around $14
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Star_Wahl_Clipper_Treker

Likes a fat handle in his hand
Yup, while 3D printing is cool and all, and I do appreciate Walpan's method of storing razors, I'm just not a fan of plastic, and try to avoid it as much as I possibly can. For me, I love things that are hand made out of wood. And to that end, I also went on Etsy, found a seller, that makes these awesome wooden razor and brush stands.

These are old pictures now, but still illustrate what I have perfectly. I now have a 5th brush, and am using every slot, its completely filled, I have a dozen razors, and I still feel like I need another stand for them all lol. This is made out of cherry hard wood, and varnished. Pictures taken with razors and brushes...

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Pictures taken without razors and brushes...

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I wrote to Zach Norton about some of the questions that @euro had regarding the material used in the stand. Below is Zach's reply.

"Hi Folks of B&B!


I Felt that I needed to chime in and explain the purpose and reason for this "version" of stand. I tried to make an account, but for some reason I can't post on the thread, I assume the account is too new. So to state this is my words, and not Walpan.


The short version: This is a cheaper alternative compared to a custom wood/metal stand, sanding/painting will triple the cost due to labor and more materials. Simply not worth it when there's nicer options at the price range.


If you'd like more of an explanation, here's the long version:


I'll state I'm new to both wet shaving (1 year) and being an Esty seller (7-8 months.) So I'm learning all aspects of shaving, design, sales, and eager to grow, learn, and take constructive criticism. I don't do this full time, so I usually do this for fun and to supplement my hobby of 3D printing to keep my wife happy!


Understandably, there's different tastes for everyone, like preferred car makers, or even colors. This was made for Walpan's wants and needs and I made it just for him. He wanted the main aspect to store the razors open, be able to air dry the razors effectively. Thus needing the extra bumpers/guards on the front and sides to prevent tipping out the front of the stand when bumped/moved. as well as the pitch of the brace to force the razors to lean backwards, again to prevent razors tipping forward.


That is the good thing for 3D printing; fast tweaks for updates on designs, unconventional shapes and features that are otherwise more laborious to replicate in other methods, and cheaper than solid wood or metal.


As for the "Layer Lines," in particular the angled portion of the legs, and the top surface of the brace. That is more accurately "stair-stepping." Which is similar to the look of brick laying at an angle or a curve. Since each 3D print layer can only be printed flat and one layer at a time (like bricklaying,) it creates that "Stair-Step" look. Also this was printing on a new machine I only had 2 days and was still tuning the profiles. Here's an example of "stair-stepping":


To remedy this, is to simply print smaller layers, but that costs more time, which equals more cost on the product. Or to orientate the print to make those features a smooth angle/curve, but that causes the other angles/curves to stair-step. So there's no real perfect solution, besides making the design flat, sharp, and sort of boring. I wanted the design to look like I did more than just make holes and slots and called it a day.


As for resin printing, It definitely does have a higher resolution of detail for sure, but at the cost of strength. Generic 3D printing resin is brittle and would not take the impact compared to PETG (which I print with.) Also it does take more effort to make a finished product from a resin print. You will have to remove support material, wash in 99% alcohol, cure in a UV box, sand, and finally paint. Which will make the product too expensive, since it will put you in the market for more advanced stands. Either way, resin printing, or sanding and painting a conventional 3D print, will still cost too much for someone to consider buying.


Also similar designs that I could print like SmokedStanely or Star_Whal_Clipper_Treker (both stands are amazing by the way), but they already exist in wood and 3D printed versions on Etsy, so I don't need to make a version of it unless I would be specifically requested for. Which I would do more than just simple shapes and holes to make it different from others. That's why I made mine with more features, like "Print-in-Place" hinges that are able to fold flat to reduce shipping costs, and the main features that Walpan requested to have for his stand. So I credit him for his unique Ideas.


Sorry for this long message, and potentially repeating myself. Thank you for your time, and hopefully I can get access to the forum and make some posts and replies to the great community! Hope y'all have a happy new year!"

Z. Norton
 

Iridian

Cool and slimy
I usually use acrylic test tube holders, finding a fitting one is tricky. So yeah, 3d printing for stands is something I also thought about.

I can also envision a sponge-like design with many heights and different diameter holes or fixed diameter holes to place my razor forest in. But that's a bit eclectic, but I would like that. :)
 
I usually use acrylic test tube holders, finding a fitting one is tricky. So yeah, 3d printing for stands is something I also thought about.

I can also envision a sponge-like design with many heights and different diameter holes or fixed diameter holes to place my razor forest in. But that's a bit eclectic, but I would like that. :)
If there are some specific designs you have in mind, Zach could probably accommodate you. What i wanted was a stand that would let the razor heads be secure and have the ability to air dry while in the stand. I got exactly what i wanted.
 
Yup, while 3D printing is cool and all, and I do appreciate Walpan's method of storing razors, I'm just not a fan of plastic, and try to avoid it as much as I possibly can. For me, I love things that are hand made out of wood. And to that end, I also went on Etsy, found a seller, that makes these awesome wooden razor and brush stands.
While not as refined as yours, I had an idea in my head for a razor stand so I gave it a go and made this today from some scrap pieces of pine, then stained it grey. Holds 22 razors at a 45 degree angle.
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I wrote to Zach Norton about some of the questions that @euro had regarding the material used in the stand. Below is Zach's reply.

"Hi Folks of B&B!


I Felt that I needed to chime in and explain the purpose and reason for this "version" of stand. I tried to make an account, but for some reason I can't post on the thread, I assume the account is too new. So to state this is my words, and not Walpan.


The short version: This is a cheaper alternative compared to a custom wood/metal stand, sanding/painting will triple the cost due to labor and more materials. Simply not worth it when there's nicer options at the price range.


If you'd like more of an explanation, here's the long version:


I'll state I'm new to both wet shaving (1 year) and being an Esty seller (7-8 months.) So I'm learning all aspects of shaving, design, sales, and eager to grow, learn, and take constructive criticism. I don't do this full time, so I usually do this for fun and to supplement my hobby of 3D printing to keep my wife happy!


Understandably, there's different tastes for everyone, like preferred car makers, or even colors. This was made for Walpan's wants and needs and I made it just for him. He wanted the main aspect to store the razors open, be able to air dry the razors effectively. Thus needing the extra bumpers/guards on the front and sides to prevent tipping out the front of the stand when bumped/moved. as well as the pitch of the brace to force the razors to lean backwards, again to prevent razors tipping forward.


That is the good thing for 3D printing; fast tweaks for updates on designs, unconventional shapes and features that are otherwise more laborious to replicate in other methods, and cheaper than solid wood or metal.


As for the "Layer Lines," in particular the angled portion of the legs, and the top surface of the brace. That is more accurately "stair-stepping." Which is similar to the look of brick laying at an angle or a curve. Since each 3D print layer can only be printed flat and one layer at a time (like bricklaying,) it creates that "Stair-Step" look. Also this was printing on a new machine I only had 2 days and was still tuning the profiles. Here's an example of "stair-stepping":


To remedy this, is to simply print smaller layers, but that costs more time, which equals more cost on the product. Or to orientate the print to make those features a smooth angle/curve, but that causes the other angles/curves to stair-step. So there's no real perfect solution, besides making the design flat, sharp, and sort of boring. I wanted the design to look like I did more than just make holes and slots and called it a day.


As for resin printing, It definitely does have a higher resolution of detail for sure, but at the cost of strength. Generic 3D printing resin is brittle and would not take the impact compared to PETG (which I print with.) Also it does take more effort to make a finished product from a resin print. You will have to remove support material, wash in 99% alcohol, cure in a UV box, sand, and finally paint. Which will make the product too expensive, since it will put you in the market for more advanced stands. Either way, resin printing, or sanding and painting a conventional 3D print, will still cost too much for someone to consider buying.


Also similar designs that I could print like SmokedStanely or Star_Whal_Clipper_Treker (both stands are amazing by the way), but they already exist in wood and 3D printed versions on Etsy, so I don't need to make a version of it unless I would be specifically requested for. Which I would do more than just simple shapes and holes to make it different from others. That's why I made mine with more features, like "Print-in-Place" hinges that are able to fold flat to reduce shipping costs, and the main features that Walpan requested to have for his stand. So I credit him for his unique Ideas.


Sorry for this long message, and potentially repeating myself. Thank you for your time, and hopefully I can get access to the forum and make some posts and replies to the great community! Hope y'all have a happy new year!"

Z. Norton
FWIW, PLA (the prototypical FDM filament used), actually has slightly higher tensile strength than PETG. However, PLA is more brittle than PETG and thus more prone to shattering. Additionally, PETG has some other unique properties such as a higher melting point (which can cause some printing difficulties), UV resistance, … I can go on but won’t for everyone’s sake lol. In any event, due to it being PETG, if you were inclined to “smooth” the filament lines, even though I don’t think it’s necessary, you can look up some post-processing techniques.
 
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