Damn Comfortable Shave

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

For any "day after" work I'd use a Russian Gillette 7 O'Clock Green. The Green is super smooth, so it fits in nicely as a go to blade if yesterday's shave left your neck a bit raw, or last night's excesses left you unable to safely manage a feather.

My shave this morning with the GSB has held up pretty well into the now late evening. It was a close shave as I thought.

I'll try the GSB for its second shave in the morning. I hope it seems fairly unchanged from today, but whatever I find is what I need to know about it. I have plenty of blades to audition.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Capisco Capisce]

I found it quite a bit sharper than GSB, but I did use a much steeper angle when I used it last. I rode the comb of my NEW SC about 80/20 so pretty steep, and it worked well.

My last several shaves were with Feathers, so perhaps I'm a bit sensitized in relation to sharpness! But I'll see when I use a GSB next.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Another pretty decent shave bites the dust.

Today's shave, on close examination, isn't quite as great as I initially thought. The problem is all the weird directions of my neck's whisker growth. Every time I think I've got the map right I find out I don't.

That's not saying the shave was not very good because it's a nice shave. There's just a little spot below my jaw near my chin which could be better.

Still, I'm rather pleased, and I believe I'm improving with practice.

Today's shave was the second and last with this particular GSB. Again, I like the blade. A lot.

Semoque SOC boar (wonderful brush when broken in half way or more).

Straight MWF.

Alum block followed by witch hazel.

Moisturizer will be applied an a minute. No idea what aftershave I'll use.

My shaves are taking forever. My wife comments about the time I'm spending shaving, and her comments are not complementary. Her grandfather could shave with a brush and a straight razor in the time I spend making lather. I'm sure he could, but he'd been doing it since he was a pup by the time she came along. Give me time to practice and get it right! No problem. We're okay with it.

As long as I don't get in her way.

As long as I clean up after myself.

Oh, she washed out my shaving bowl, getting rid of all the nice lather which I was saving for this morning. I'll ask her to save herself from that little chore, and I rinsed off the outside of the shaving bowl, so maybe that will please her sense of aesthetics.

I'll get her back: I just put on my aftershave.

It really does smell like cat urine, but in a (maybe) good way. I'm going to give it a try. See if it grows on me.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

I've been reading about the gold Fatip Grande, and looking forward to hearing more about it. I'm impressed that it's made of brass instead of that inferior zinc alloy stuff.

I watched an interesting video by the RazorEmporium guy. Not promoting the company - about which some folks have little good to say; I know nothing about them from my experience - the video is pretty good. He's talking about his view of what are some of the best razors for beginning DE shavers.

In the video he begins by discussing the metals and methods involved in making inexpensive modern razors vs better quality modern razors and vintage razors. Very interesting stuff.

Interesting, too, how Fatip manages to make a modern razor both fairly inexpensive and also brass. Impressive!

Around the 7:18 point of the video he talks about the Gillette Super Speed, one of his favorites for beginners.

I learned to shave with a Super Speed. I did not like it at all, but I'm going to say it was probably user error and such, rather than the razor. I had similar problems with the Gillette adjustable razors. I know I tried, back in my youth, a new Slim, and, I think, a Fatboy, and did well with neither.

For a decade or more I cut myself all the time with these double edged razors. Styptic pencils and toilet paper were my best friends.

Not being a one trial learner...

I'm going to try again with the same razors which are now vintage Gillettes. Not immediately as I'm sticking with one razor, my lovely Feather AS-D2, for a good while, but eventually I'm planning to try the adjustable and other TTO razors again.

I have a Slim on the way, and a Fatboy, and, as of this morning, a 1940s style Super Speed. My new Super Speed was made in 1952, but it's still the 1940s style as they weren't changed until 1954. Apparently, the late 1940s Super Speeds are more highly regarded than newer models. Of course, I'm just passing on what I've read, as I know nothing about any of these razors except what I experienced decades ago and what I've recently read.

I found old ebay razors which look at least okay, and probably better, particular the Slim and the Super Speed. I think the Fatboy may be fine, too, but it's not, in the pictures, as shiny and nice as the other two. Of course, I was partially shopping around for a Fatboy within my price range, and also decent looking. Easier to find a really nice Super Speed and Slim without breaking the bank. Not saying I found any super inexpensive, great deals, but I can't bid yet on ebay (silly restriction that).

I have coming a, seller described, very nice ball end handled 1951 Tech, and a couple of NEW OC razors, SC and LC. Of course, I'm terrified of using either, but there's no hurry.

Hopefully I'm not getting screwed by dishonest ebay razor salespeople. It's not easy to know who is actually honest, but I did attend to the reviews and ratings. I looked carefully at the photos, too, and did lots of homework on each of the razors I purchased hoping to avoid dumb mistakes if possible.

Why didn't I keep all those old razors I had and my father and grandfather had?

Live and learn.

Then there's razor blades.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

Razor blades. A summary. I reviewed all my notes.

I like the GSB a lot. Also in my top group so far are the Feather (very sharp, not as smooth as I might like) and the PolSilver SI (smooth and sharp, but not Feather sharp).

I'd say the GSB is pretty impressive, but the Feather and PolSilver will also get more trials.

Russian Gillette 7 O'Clock SS Greens are top, too, but for smoothness. Not as sharp as the others.

There are several more to try before I decide on ordering a hundred of anything.

What blade will I try next? My face feels a tad razor burned right now. I could try a Gillette platinum, or a Gillette yellow, or maybe a PolSilver again. There are several others as yet untested in my razor stash.

If I had the Blue Diamond it would be the one tomorrow, but it hasn't arrived from India yet.

It might be a good time to try the Green again.

I'll sleep on it.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

The Fatip is as you say, all brass and as far as I know, the only all brass modern razor at that price point.

Its also, as I understand it, a fairly aggressive razor. See the pics below and decide for yourself compared to the Feather AS-D2.



Its not easy finding side profile pictures of many razors as most dont think to highlight that critical area. You can see however, how much blade exposure there is on the Fatip.

The higher end Joris/Plisson razors also use heads made by Fatip but of a slightly different design with I think, less teeth in the comb and better polishing and plating, but they're around the $150 - $200 mark, not the $20 - $30 range.

Gillette Super Speeds dont seem to have been created equally. My SS is a D2 date, 2nd quarter 1958 and is a very mild, but effective shaver, much like my British Rocket of the same era. The British Rocket however, is a more finely crafted piece, as are I believe all British Gillettes. My Lady Gillette thats a T1 (1973) date I think, is an even milder shaver and I think of it much like a TTO Tech with a long handle, but it doesnt have the same feel in use as the Tech does. The Tech feels more....solid, as if it holds the blade more securely. A feeling thats difficult to quantify.

My 1940 Gillette Regent Tech on the other hand, seems to me to have considerably more blade exposure and shaves more like my NEW SC. Its extremely effective and gives me a very close shave. I've had a BBS finish with it thats lasted nearly 24 hours, which really surprised me.

I'm not sure when the head designs changed on the Gillette TTO's, but many say the NDC TTO's shave the best and especially the 1948-1952 models although most I've read about them they've been mentioned as Aristocrats, but I would think the Aristocrat would have the same head as an SS of the same year.

My quest for the perfect shave seems to be leaning now towards the length of the BBS finish, the closeness of shave. I hope to have the Fatip in hand next week and I'm quite excited to try it. I hope it wont have troublesome blade alignment issues as I've read some do have.

 

[jmudrick]

The Fatip is as you say, all brass and as far as I know, the only all brass modern razor at that price point.

Its also, as I understand it, a fairly aggressive razor. See the pics below and decide for yourself compared to the Feather AS-D2.

View attachment 820682 View attachment 820680 View attachment 820681

Its not easy finding side profile pictures of many razors as most dont think to highlight that critical area. You can see however, how much blade exposure there is on the Fatip.

The higher end Joris/Plisson razors also use heads made by Fatip but of a slightly different design with I think, less teeth in the comb and better polishing and plating, but they're around the $150 - $200 mark, not the $20 - $30 range.

Gillette Super Speeds dont seem to have been created equally. My SS is a D2 date, 2nd quarter 1958 and is a very mild, but effective shaver, much like my British Rocket of the same era. The British Rocket however, is a more finely crafted piece, as are I believe all British Gillettes. My Lady Gillette thats a T1 (1973) date I think, is an even milder shaver and I think of it much like a TTO Tech with a long handle, but it doesnt have the same feel in use as the Tech does. The Tech feels more....solid, as if it holds the blade more securely. A feeling thats difficult to quantify.

My 1940 Gillette Regent Tech on the other hand, seems to me to have considerably more blade exposure and shaves more like my NEW SC. Its extremely effective and gives me a very close shave. I've had a BBS finish with it thats lasted nearly 24 hours, which really surprised me.

I'm not sure when the head designs changed on the Gillette TTO's, but many say the NDC TTO's shave the best and especially the 1948-1952 models although most I've read about them they've been mentioned as Aristocrats, but I would think the Aristocrat would have the same head as an SS of the same year.

My quest for the perfect shave seems to be leaning now towards the length of the BBS finish, the closeness of shave. I hope to have the Fatip in hand next week and I'm quite excited to try it. I hope it wont have troublesome blade alignment issues as I've read some do have.

Interesting to see the photos. Always hard when your dealing with fractions of a millimeter, but the Fatip and R41 appear to have comparable exposure with the R41 having a substantially greater blade gap (and is thus usually experienced as more aggressive). The Ikon Tech, consistent with my experience and its reputation, has way more exposure then either. I doubt the Feather has positive exposure at any angle.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

It's not like I was thinking of getting a Fatip, but, if I had been I wouldn't be now. At least not any time soon. Too much blade for me. I will be interested in hearing all about it. It looks like a quality product.

My understanding is the British Gillette razors were generally better than their American counterparts.

The 1940s Super Speed was made from 1947-1954. The 1947 SS was different from the other years because the others were "notched" in the center bar to allow easier loading of razor blades from the dispensers.

The closeness of the shave seems to me to absolutely measurable only by how long the close shave lasts. I've been fooled into thinking a shave was close when it seemed close and was very smooth. I'm with you on wanting the shave to last.

My priorities are #1 Damn Comfortable Shave, #2 BBS, and #3 Close, Long Lasting Shave.

My shave today was close to #1. Close to #2. Plus, it was Close, #3.

It's fun to learn about razors, but not easy...



I just discovered this evening that one of the razors I purchased was named by model incorrectly by the seller. It's been shipped, but I've not received it. My guess is this was not deliberately deceptive, merely ignorant as the seller is not in the razor business, and I got a good enough price that I might keep the item anyway if I like it enough.

I was not happy, but I've been unhappy once or twice before.

I found another razor of the model I "first bought" and bought it, too. Got a decent price on it, but I'll have to clean it up some which I don't mind at all if it is a sound item...

In the process I learned a great deal about the razor.

I've also seen ebay sellers misrepresent razors in the other direction. That is, the razor is likely more rare and more valuable than they think.

One razor was initially offered as new. It clearly was not new. The seller withdrew it from auction. It was then offered again, as used, with an apology stating the seller had examined it closely and seen it was not new (It was clearly used to my eye in the photographs furnished by the seller).

Anyhow.

Ebay rule #1: Caveat emptor!

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Esox]

Interesting to see the photos. Always hard when your dealing with fractions of a millimeter, but the Fatip and R41 appear to have comparable exposure with the R41 having a substantially greater blade gap (and is thus usually experienced as more aggressive). The Ikon Tech, consistent with my experience and its reputation, has way more exposure then either. I doubt the Feather has positive exposure at any angle.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

The main difference between the R41 and the Fatip that I see, is the angle of the blade, not gap so much. The steeper angle of the blade edge on the R41 would make it a different shave with I think much more blade feel, but that blade edge is also not supported across the entire length, only at the ends, leaving the majority of the blade unsupported by the base plate.



vs Fatip that supports the blade fully for the entire length of the base plate. Much the same as all rigid designs.



Its been pointed out to me that the Ikon in that picture isnt consistent with the actual razor and the angle of view is exaggerated.

 

[jmudrick]

The main difference between the R41 and the Fatip that I see, is the angle of the blade, not gap so much. The steeper angle of the blade edge on the R41 would make it a different shave with I think much more blade feel, but that blade edge is also not supported across the entire length, only at the ends, leaving the majority of the blade unsupported by the base plate.

View attachment 820746

vs Fatip that supports the blade fully for the entire length of the base plate. Much the same as all rigid designs.

View attachment 820747

Its been pointed out to me that the Ikon in that picture isnt consistent with the actual razor and the angle of view is exaggerated.

You are correct about angle (though I think I'm also correct about gap). Whether the photo of the Ikon has issues or not my experience with both razors is that the Tech has the greater exposure.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

 

[Esox]

My D2 SS is notched, and my Brit Rocket was too, but both are slighter different shavers. My 1940 Regent Tech isnt notched and has the T bar ends and is a decidedly different shaver.

I just finished a shave with my Tech and a 4th use Feather blade, 3 full passes WTG, XTG and ATG, with a buffing pass over my neck and jawline. I put it down after that buffing pass and did another buffing pass with my Regent that has a Perma-Sharp Super in it with I dont even know how many shaves now, and it took off quite a lot the Tech didnt ATG.

As I suspected, blade exposure seems to be working for me which reinforces my decision to buy the Fatip.

The Ebay seller I bought that Regent from only had it listed as a "Vintage Gillette Safety Razor". I assumed it an Aristocrat, but I was wrong.

 

[Esox]

Whether the photo of the Ikon has issues or not my experience with both razors is that the Tech has the greater exposure.

I would agree with you.

 

[Raven Koenes]

The higher end Joris/Plisson razors also use heads made by Fatip but of a slightly different design with I think, less teeth in the comb and better polishing and plating, but they're around the $150 - $200 mark, not the $20 - $30 range.

They use the same standard Fatip OC head with eleven teeth. The Joris does have better polishing and plating using Palladium which is a semi precious metal. Mine is relatively new and was purchased last December after the Fatip retool. The top cap Joris is using (at least as of Dec. 2016) is still the Mk1 18mm cap instead of the new Mk2 19mm cap. That and the added weight of the Joris make it a more aggressive razor (silky smooth but noticeably more aggressive). My Joris weighs in at a 110 grams compared to the 66 gram Grande. If you order from the Plisson web site directly from France you can get a Plisson/Joris for 139 dollars US. shipping included (at least as of last Dec.). That is definitely a better price point than Frendrihan which also holds true in Canadian dollars. The Plisson website also offers a larger selection of handle styles than Frendrihan.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

My shave this morning was very good.

The blade was a new Russian Gillette 7 O'Clock Yellow. I could hardly tell the razor had a blade it was so smooth. It also seemed very sharp.

My guess is my technique with the razor is improving which makes the various blades (the good blades anyway) seem better.

The brush was my not fully broken in yet Semoque 830. It is a tad broken in, maybe barely enough to use, and it was at least okay. It is less difficult to break in than the Semoque SOC boar, and better out of the box than the SOC. A nice size for a fairly small brush. Great handle. Beautiful. My initial impression is it's a pretty nice brush, quite satisfactory, but not as good as a lather machine, so far, as the SOC.

It is unfair though to compare a minimally broken in 830 with a mostly broken in SOC. Comparing any brush to an SOC is unfair, come to think of it.

Today's shave wasn't perfect, but it was comfortable, and I'm moving towards the perfect shave like old barbers used to give me long ago. Today's shave might be, overall, the best shave so far.

It is amazing to me to know I might be able to shave myself at home as well as professional barbers of my youth could shave me. I had no idea such a thing was possible with an at home shave. Especially without using a straight razor. Ask me if I love my Feather AS-D2?

Cold shave. Pre-shave lather and cold towel soak with MWF + Proraso. Alum block. Witch hazel. Pinaud Clubman.

Nice shave!

Nice blade!

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Raven Koenes]

Its been pointed out to me that the Ikon in that picture isnt consistent with the actual razor and the angle of view is exaggerated.

I would hope so...it looks ridiculously exaggerated due to the angle of the head in the photo. It looks like it was done intentionally to appeal to the aggressive crowd, or appeal to manly men's natural male territorial imperative as I like to call it. Kind of like Spinal Tap where their amps were better because they went up to 11.

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

It's Christmas!

Today's deliveryman brought me five vintage razors from ebay. All of them are at least as good as they were described to be. Of course, that's just looking at them. I've not used any of them to shave yet, and won't anytime soon.

1. A 1963 Slim, very nice one. Looks as good as the one I owned in college which I'd purchased new.

2. A 1930s NEW SC, very pretty. Hard to believe it is old.

3. A ball end NEW LC, not as pretty as the SC, but no cracks in handle, and plenty good looking.

4. A 1951 ball end Tech. Near mint condition. Really outstanding! Could pass for new maybe.

Also, one non-Gillette.

5. A Star Double Edge. Looks very good. In its box. Not 100% new looking, but pretty close.

Overall: Outstanding. Of course, these were not the cheapest items on ebay. Neither were they even close to the most expensive available.

I'm not good at telling how much brass is showing, but these look perfect in that regard other than maybe the LC.

Unless I find problems later, which I doubt I will, this was a haul worthy of Christmas morning any year.

None have been cleaned up by me. I just opened the packages minutes ago. None look like they need cleaning, but I'll wash them anyway.

I am very pleased. Particularly because everything was as described +/- what you'd expect if you expected the best of folks.

Happy shaves,

Jim

 

[Raven Koenes]

It's Christmas!

Today's deliveryman brought me five vintage razors from ebay. All of them are at least as good as they were described to be. Of course, that's just looking at them. I've not used any of them to shave yet, and won't anytime soon.

1. A 1963 Slim, very nice one. Looks as good as the one I owned in college which I'd purchased new.

2. A 1930s NEW SC, very pretty. Hard to believe it is old.

3. A ball end NEW LC, not as pretty as the SC, but no cracks in handle, and plenty good looking.

4. A 1951 ball end Tech. Near mint condition. Really outstanding! Could pass for new maybe.

Also, one non-Gillette.

5. A Star Double Edge. Looks very good. In its box. Not 100% new looking, but pretty close.

Overall: Outstanding. Of course, these were not the cheapest items on ebay. Neither were they even close to the most expensive available.

I'm not good at telling how much brass is showing, but these look perfect in that regard other than maybe the LC.

Unless I find problems later, which I doubt I will, this was a haul worthy of Christmas morning any year.

None have been cleaned up by me. I just opened the packages minutes ago. None look like they need cleaning, but I'll wash them anyway.

I am very pleased. Particularly because everything was as described +/- what you'd expect if you expected the best of folks.

Happy shaves,

Jim

Thanks...and we love pictures!

 

[Chan Eil Whiskers]

 

[Raven Koenes]

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[Chan Eil Whiskers]