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Straight newbie questions.

I’m considering giving the straight razor a go. I’m just starting with DE but have become intrigued with the straight. My first questions are about honing stones.

Would I be better trying to buy a vintage stone in good condition? There is welsh slate hones that the seller says are like 8k or 12k and come with a smaller slurry stone. Which sort of grit would be best to maintain a razor if I bought one ready to shave? Or would I be better with a 2 sided stone?

I would very much appreciate any advice.
 
Welcome to B&B. I think most would advise you not to learn to use a straight and learn to hone at the same time.
If you’re game to try a straight razor it is mandatory that you get a blade that is absolutely shave ready, new or vintage doesn’t matter but shave ready does.
Realize you cannot compare the feel of using a DE with that of a straight. Both remove whiskers but feel very different on your face.
If I were you I wouldn’t worry about acquiring stones until you’re sure you’re ready to commit to learning and using a straight. Then get a 2nd one so when the first one needs honing you’ll have a back up if you send he first one out to be honed.
Remember you’ll need strop too.
The bottom line is you need an absolutely shave ready blade and strop and a cheap strop at that while learning how to use it. Stones come later…….usually. Good luck. Keep us informed along your journey.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
@Wilkinsmooth, I ventured from wet cart shaving directly into traditional SR shaving a little over two years ago. I have since been SR shaving daily.

When I started, I did not have access to a shave-ready SR. I had to teach myself how to hone before my first real SR could be used to shave with. This made my journey into the gentlemanly art of SR shaving difficult but not impossible.

I would strongly recommend that you start first by developing your basic SR shaving technique before you venture into honing a SR. For this you will only need a truly shave-ready SR and a decent clean leather strop, as well as soap and brush of course.

A acceptable shave-ready SR and strop should set you back about USD 50 or up (a lot), depending on your budget and aesthetic desires.

Knowing your location (country) and budget would be a great help in allowing us to guide you.
 
For a shave ready razor, all you need for periodic maintenance is a finisher. And you don't even need a finisher very often, if you learn how to make and use a pasted balsa strop progression.

Myself, I find a 12k Naniwa S2 splash-and-go Superstone to be a fine finish hone. It is very straightforward to use, though you will need the ability to flatten it once in a blue moon.

Honing as a hobby is a different situation. I have a full Naniwa progression, five diamond plates, a Pride abrasives progression, a mystery jnat, a black arkansas, and a Norton translucent ark... but that is all for restoring vintage razors, or for future exploration of alternative finishing.

Back in the day, barbers had a barber hone and both clean and pasted strops made of linen and leather. That was all they needed. If a razor was damaged or worn out, they bought another.
 

rbscebu

Girls call me Makaluod
If you get a truly shave-ready SR, it should not to touch a whetstone ever again if it is maintained on diamond pasted balsa strops. Three (0.5μm, 0.25μm & 0.1μm) pasted balsa strops should cost you well under USD 100 total to put together.

If you don't want to use diamond pasted balsa strops, your shave-ready SR should not need refreshing on a whetstone(s) for at least 50 to 100 shaves or more. Just strop it on clean leather before each shave. Develop your SR shaving and stropping technique before you even think about whetstones.
 
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@Wilkinsmooth, I ventured from wet cart shaving directly into traditional SR shaving a little over two years ago. I have since been SR shaving daily.

When I started, I did not have access to a shave-ready SR. I had to teach myself how to hone before my first real SR could be used to shave with. This made my journey into the gentlemanly art of SR shaving difficult but not impossible.

I would strongly recommend that you start first by developing your basic SR shaving technique before you venture into honing a SR. For this you will only need a truly shave-ready SR and a decent clean leather strop, as well as soap and brush of course.

A acceptable shave-ready SR and strop should set you back about USD 50 or up (a lot), depending on your budget and aesthetic desires.

Knowing your location (country) and budget would be a great help in allowing us to guide you.

Thank you for the replies. I’ll forget about honing for now.

I’m based in the UK, my budget would be around £150 or so to get started. While I was looking for local places to have a straight razor sharpened if required, I found this site.


The razors look good but I’m not sure if they’re overpriced or if it’s a good deal. What I do like is that they would be truly shave ready. I have soap and brush, scuttle etc, so I think I’d be looking at a basic razor and strop kit.

What’s the difference between a strap and paddle? Is one easier to use for beginners?

Is there a difference between a flat blade and a hollow blade or is that just preference? Must admit I do like the look of the curved blades.
 
Thank you for the replies. I’ll forget about honing for now.

I’m based in the UK, my budget would be around £150 or so to get started. While I was looking for local places to have a straight razor sharpened if required, I found this site.


The razors look good but I’m not sure if they’re overpriced or if it’s a good deal. What I do like is that they would be truly shave ready. I have soap and brush, scuttle etc, so I think I’d be looking at a basic razor and strop kit.

What’s the difference between a strap and paddle? Is one easier to use for beginners?

Is there a difference between a flat blade and a hollow blade or is that just preference? Must admit I do like the look of the curved blades.
You might want to look at vintage blades here: Vintage Straight Razors - https://www.griffithshavinggoods.com/collections/vintage-straight-razors
Blades that Matt sells come very shave ready and restored very well. You might find something there that tickles your fancy in your price range. I’m sure he ships to the UK.
The grind of a razor is personal preference such as full hollow, quarter hollow, half hollow, near wedge or wedge. Most common today is full hollow IMHO but having said that a lot of guys like half hollow or the Sheffield blades of near wedge variety. For your maiden voyage I’d stick with a full hollow. Look up straight razor blade grind and you’ll see a profile of each.
 
You might want to look at vintage blades here: Vintage Straight Razors - https://www.griffithshavinggoods.com/collections/vintage-straight-razors
Blades that Matt sells come very shave ready and restored very well. You might find something there that tickles your fancy in your price range. I’m sure he ships to the UK.
The grind of a razor is personal preference such as full hollow, quarter hollow, half hollow, near wedge or wedge. Most common today is full hollow IMHO but having said that a lot of guys like half hollow or the Sheffield blades of near wedge variety. For your maiden voyage I’d stick with a full hollow. Look up straight razor blade grind and you’ll see a profile of each.
Very nice. The site converts to UK prices when I go in. Am I right in thinking a rounded end is easier for a beginner rather than square end?
 
I'd recommend one of these cheap AC shavettes as part of the setup (and a pack of Schick Proline blades). Or one of the original Feather shavettes they copied.

AC shavettes feel very close to a "real" straight razor, IMO. Of course there's no single type of straight razor. They all feel different: silent near-wedge hand-axes, noisy full-hollow raspers, wide 7/8 and narrower 5/8.

An AC shavette can be useful for a range of reasons. You can take it on holiday or use it when your straights are all in need of a honing session. It gives you a reference point of what a sharp blade should feel like if you're not sure if a straight needs to be sharpened.

The small blade exposure also limits the kind of accidents you can have. Careless movements will still cut and can produce plenty blood but you can't make deep cuts like you can with a straight.

I wouldn't say that's something to *worry* about but it is something to pay attention to. You must be very disciplined when you're handling a razor-sharp edge but give it your full attention, be careful and you'll be fine. I never pick up a straight if I feel tired, ill, or distracted.
 
Very nice. The site converts to UK prices when I go in. Am I right in thinking a rounded end is easier for a beginner rather than square end?
You’re correct, you’re less likely to catch your earlobe with a round point. He usually carries some blades which don’t cost the earth. If you get one and decide it’s not your cuppa you’ve not lost that much.
Remember you need an expensive strop too. I say inexpensive because you’ll probably slice it while learning the stropping technique
 
You’re correct, you’re less likely to catch your earlobe with a round point. He usually carries some blades which don’t cost the earth. If you get one and decide it’s not your cuppa you’ve not lost that much.
Remember you need an expensive strop too. I say inexpensive because you’ll probably slice it while learning the stropping technique
I forgot to add when you get a truly shave ready blade don’t strop it for your first shave. It shouldn’t require it. The honer stropped it when it came off the stones. Just use it. Strop for your next shave.
Also a real straight is more forgiving than a shavette especially the heavier grinds.
 
Thanks for all the advice so far. I decided to buy a Parker 31R stainless shavette to see if I have the patience for this type of shaving, without spending too much money while I’m looking into everything.
 
Thanks for all the advice so far. I decided to buy a Parker 31R stainless shavette to see if I have the patience for this type of shaving, without spending too much money while I’m looking into everything.
The only similarity is you hold both tools the same way. That will give you an idea if straights are for you.
But as I said it’s easier to cut yourself with the shavette than a real straight IMHO
 
The only similarity is you hold both tools the same way. That will give you an idea if straights are for you.
But as I said it’s easier to cut yourself with the shavette than a real straight IMHO
That’s the conclusion I had came to after reading here over the past week or so. But I’m a very impulsive buyer, especially when it comes to beautiful vintage objects, which the straight is imo. It’ll buy me a wee bit more time to look into it and make a more informed decision if nothing else.
 
That’s the conclusion I had came to after reading here over the past week or so. But I’m a very impulsive buyer, especially when it comes to beautiful vintage objects, which the straight is imo. It’ll buy me a wee bit more time to look into it and make a more informed decision if nothing else.
That’s what got me into straights. For me they are like eye candy! Plus I get a great shave with no irritation. Think about the history of a vintage blade before it touches your hands and face. Just food for thought.
 
That’s what got me into straights. For me they are like eye candy! Plus I get a great shave with no irritation. Think about the history of a vintage blade before it touches your hands and face. Just food for thought.
Can I have your opinion on this Issard vintage razor please? While looking at eBay I added it to my watchlist and the seller has offered it cheaper at £65.

directions to the closest

Any comments and advice is appreciated.
 
Can I have your opinion on this Issard vintage razor please? While looking at eBay I added it to my watchlist and the seller has offered it cheaper at £65.

directions to the closest

Any comments and advice is appreciated.
I like my 2 TI blades. Look closely at the edge for chips. Is it really shave ready, if not you’ll have to send it out to a respected honer.
If shave ready and you like it go for it! You won’t know what it’s like shaving with a straight until you try it….. just make sure it’s shave ready. If it’s not you won’t enjoy your experience. Very few bay sellers drivers truly shave ready blades so I’ve heard.
 
I like my 2 TI blades. Look closely at the edge for chips. Is it really shave ready, if not you’ll have to send it out to a respected honer.
If shave ready and you like it go for it! You won’t know what it’s like shaving with a straight until you try it….. just make sure it’s shave ready. If it’s not you won’t enjoy your experience. Very few bay sellers drivers truly shave ready blades so I’ve heard.
The seller appears to make and sell Welsh slate stones and the listing says he was first to put an edge on that razor, he says he thinks it’s from the 60s. I’ll look further at his other items and descriptions to see if I think it’ll be properly shave ready.

Presumably it’s worth the money being asked and would be a suitable first straight razor? The way I’m rationalising it is, I can cancel the Parker and get this for just over an extra £50 😁
 
The seller appears to make and sell Welsh slate stones and the listing says he was first to put an edge on that razor, he says he thinks it’s from the 60s. I’ll look further at his other items and descriptions to see if I think it’ll be properly shave ready.

Presumably it’s worth the money being asked and would be a suitable first straight razor? The way I’m rationalising it is, I can cancel the Parker and get this for just over an extra £50 😁
I think it’s a very reasonable first straight razor. If you buy it then you must have a cheap strop. You might find it easier to learn to strop on a 3 inch wide strop so poised to a 2.5 inch one. With 3 inch it’s just back and forth without having to learn to do x strokes. Lots of YouTube videos on how to strop.
 
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