Honing Newbie, basics!

[mmrmm]

Read a lot of the information here at the forum, great!

Ordered a full set of film, plus a “cheaper” straight razor to start the learning process. The kit includes a 100u film sheet, what could I eventually use this for?


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[Ssandstorms]

That's 120-ish grit?
I don't think you'd see it used too much on your razor, but it would make a wonderful starting grit for lapping (if you decided to go the pastes balsa or natural finisher route). The lowest grit I have seen people recommend on bevel setting was 32u and that's on REALLY messed up razors that need a lot of metal off. Granted, I don't know about microfilm, that was with a whetstone.

 

[mmrmm]

Well, the razor I purchased to start is a Gold Dollar N71.

From all I read about it, most likely does not come shave ready, perhaps even not even with a decent bevel. Another user also said that it comes with a ”smile“ effect.

Not sure if the 30u would deal with all this, or if a few laps on 100u helps. Bad is that I am just starting, so am not really that sensitive to what I should look for...

 

[mmrmm]

BTW: does it help to have some kind of magnifying device to check the progress? If so, anything out there that does not cost an arm and a leg?

I guess a microscope would be an overkill...


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[rbscebu]

@mmrmm, this thread and its associated links should answer most of your questions:

Newbie Honing Compendium

I find myself often linking just a few threads rather than give a long winded explanation that takes me 15 minutes to type on my phone. So, here are my favorite threads to suggest that newbies read if they are interested in making their razors sharp. Lapping film, try it. Setting the Bevel...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[Levue]

You should start with a shave ready razor, something honed by people who know their craft and not just "eBay shave ready".

 

[global_dev]

BTW: does it help to have some kind of magnifying device to check the progress? If so, anything out there that does not cost an arm and a leg?

I guess a microscope would be an overkill...


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imho, it does help, but only if you understand what you see and how what you see feels tangibly as far as edge testing.

A reason looking through a loupe or scope isn’t 100% is that you are not looking at how scratched or polished the bevel is as a 100% indicator of apex edge doneness. The loupe would show you the scratch pattern & the profile of the edge. Often new honers get hyped about the mirror polish when in fact they might not even have a converging apex. Light sources and direction also play a role in visualization issues. Scopes will show an upside down and reverse image, loupes will not. Scopes can be hard to get close enough to see well without a stand.

i like to check my bevels & apexs often with a scope. It reassures me and takes little to no time for me to look down the entire edge. The loupe i have is nice for a general spot check. You really dont need either if you check the bevel set and learn to feel the transition changes. You cant really feel it if you are constantly looking through the scope or loupe.

 

[mmrmm]

Thanks!

How should I search for those equipments, what kind of stores? Something normally used for jewelry or something?


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[mmrmm]

So.... to start this honing learning experience I decided to start with something cheap. While the Gold Dollar is on its way with all the geometry challenges to be expected, I just bought something that... well it is a razor...

Italian made, branded with a very ancient and known drug store in Lisbon, was sitting so long in the shelf that the dirt was significant. Perhaps due to that I only paid 20 bucks. Last one available. God knows for how long it was sitting there...

Put it on the washer to try to get some of the dirt, will clean and take some pictures to post here, and hopefully get some advice on where to start....

Edge? Don’t think so.... So perhaps to much of a challenge but I’ll take it.
You’ll see in the pictures in a couple of hours or so stay tuned.


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[mmrmm]

BTW this is what I will get delivered today, so you know what tools I have.

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[camoloc]

only advice I can give would be.......

pay particular care to the bevel set. spend extra time during this initial stage making sure you get that right.

if you dont have a good foundation to work off of.........the rest of the progressions will be a waste of time. there are no magic stones in later progressions that will make up for a deficiency with this. this is what I have learned through listening, working, and hard knock learning.

camo

 

[camoloc]

only advice I can give would be.......

pay particular care to the bevel set. spend extra time during this initial stage making sure you get that right.

if you dont have a good foundation to work off of.........the rest of the progressions will be a waste of time. there are no magic stones in later progressions that will make up for a deficiency with this. this is what I have learned through listening, working, and hard knock learning.

camo

.......or magic films in this case!!!!

camo

 

[mmrmm]

Indeed, my personal challenge for now is just to get an edge!

Here are the pics, looking forward for some comments. I fear that that “thing” I picked up is so messed up that it would not even do for learning to hone and getting an edge...

 

[bluesman 7]

The razor looks to me like a good candidate to learn on. It would have been better to get lapping film without the PSA backing.

Doing a bit more work on the non show side during bevel set should help even out the bevel reveals.

 

[rbscebu]

That looks like a good find. I think that once honed up, you will enjoy shaving with it.

You will probably have little use for the 100um and 40um film, unless you have some really heavy work to do.

As for the CrO2, don't let it near your clean leather strop. Get a linen strop (cheap) for any paste work.

 

[mmrmm]

Great to know, perhaps it is not a lost cause.

To me it seems the spine is not straight or fully symmetric...

I was about to ask if I should get my Dremel and heavy sanding paper from the garage..... but perhaps I can simply start with the 30u / 15u, burr method until I can get an edge out of it?


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[rbscebu]

Great to know perhaps it is not a list cause.

To me it seems the spine is not straight or fully symmetric...

I was about to ask if I should get my Dremel and heavy sanding paper from the garage..... but perhaps I can simply start with the 30u / 15u, burr method until I can get an edge out of it?


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First use a marker pen (Sharpie) to check the bevel setting and spine hone contact before you take any other action on this razor.

 

[rbscebu]

Just checked your list again. You will also need a piece of acrylic about 300mm x 75mm x 20mm thick. This will be used as your "whetstone" with the lapping film.

What does (PSA) mean? I hope you are not getting film with a sticky back.

 

[mmrmm]

First thing on that list is a piece of glass for that purpose.... at least that was my plan!


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[mmrmm]

Workshop Heaven 3M Film Top Up Pack (Magnum)

Contains:
2 sheets each of 40 micron, 30 micron, 15 micron and 9 micron, pressure sensitive adhesive backed, aluminium oxide microfinishing film. A heavier duty version of standard lapping film with a thicker backing and a stronger resin coating.

2 sheets each of 3 micron and 1 micron lapping film. The 3 micron grade has a 'P' resin coating making it slightly more durable than the other superfine grades. The 1 micron film is roughly equivalent to an 11,000 grit Japanese waterstone.

1 sheet of 100 micron microfinishing film for heavier material removal, regrinding primary bevels for example. This can either be stuck to the back of the glass or any other convenient flat surface: absolute flatness is less critical for grinding than honing.

Sheet Size 8-1/2" x 11" (216mm x 279mm).

Each sheet can be cut into four 2-1/2" (69mm) wide strips.

Mineral: Aluminium Oxide

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Afraid so, don’t tell me I cannot use it.


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