When do leather soled dress shoes need to be resoled?

[Blue-EyedSon]

I picked up a nice pair of Allen Edmonds brown suede wingtips the day before yesterday at a local thrift shop. They actually fit and it looked like they still have a fair bit of life left in them. But I'm new to leather soled dress shoes and I don't know at what point they should be sent to be resoled. I'm assuming these ones are still fine, right? The heel looks okay, but I wonder about the toes. Any thoughts? Are there any general guidelines regarding when leather soled shoes should be sent away for resoling? Is it basically when it looks like the sole is wearing through to the seam with the welt (I think that's the term)?

 

[Jim]

Looks like some water damage to that leather, I would say its time to do them.

 

[johnniegold]

I would do it now. Since they were previously owned, I would get them refurbished with new foot beds inside the shoe. Also, the leather sole looks like it is dried out.

If you got a good deal on these shoes and don't mind spending a little extra coin, a full refurbishment will give you a new pair of shoes for a fraction of the cost of new ones and you will be amazed at how they look.

Read this. http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...ration-v-B-Nelson-Shoe-Restoration?highlight=

 

[little Big feather]

I'd go with the refurbish....

 

[blantyre]

I would probably go with a glue on rubber sole and new heel and give them a good dust out with Desenex inside. Other than the highest end shoes, I like the glue on topi soles, they have good grip and they last. I know the purists frown on them though!

 

[knlgskr]

If you are going to have them refurbished send them to Allen Edmonds; my experiences have been excellent; after all they built them.

 

[Prince]

If you are going to have them refurbished send them to Allen Edmonds; my experiences have been excellent; after all they built them.

Careful. My brother had a pair resoled and then years later, wanted AE to resole them and was told if some one else resole the shoes, then they will not.

 

[Rudy Vey]

Careful. My brother had a pair resoled and then years later, wanted AE to resole them and was told if some one else resole the shoes, then they will not.

True!!

 

[Seadooer]

I usually take mine to the cobblers before the first layer gets too thin and gets a hole.

 

[Doc4]

View attachment 284493

View attachment 284494

Beyond what everyone else has said, and as "general advice', you want to make sure that you get them re-soled before the wear gets too much. In the toe photo above, you can see two layers of leather in the sole (see the line, and greater scuffing on the front of the lower layer making it look tan instead of black?) Make sure the wear never gets to the second layer of leather.

On the heel photo, you can see the various layers of the heel ... and how the bottom layer is wearing thin toward the back of the heel. Well, again, you want to make sure that you do not let the wear get up to the next layer.

(Not to say that you shouldn't get the full refurbishment from AE now anyhow, but for future reference ...)

 

[Tim_McD]

The simple answer to when to get leather soled shoes re-soled is when the leather in the center of the shoe starts getting thin. You will notice it when you walk, but a couple of pushes on the sole will tell you the same thing.

But assuming that the soles are still firm and the heels aren't too worn - wear them and enjoy them for a bit and then send them into Allen Edmonds for a recrafting. The std recrafting will return to you an amazingly restored pair of shoes. Having the cork footbed replaced on a pair of "new-to-you" shoes will make them feel brand new.

You can drop them at a retail AE store or print off a shipping label and send them in via UPS.

 

[macjager]

before this stage...

 

[jhe888]

You should wait no longer than before the outsole wears through to the midsole. It doesn't look like you are there yet. But the outsole on those does look a little shabby, so it wouldn't be too soon to have those redone now, if you want them to look damn near new. I usually wear out the heels on mine before the sole, but if I put heel taps on them, then the sole under the ball of my foot is where the wear gets to be enough to require resoling.

 

[Trouthunter]

Seriously - go to Allen Edmonds and do a recrafting. Unless you need cedar trees and felt bags, don't to the premium service as it will save you a little dough.

recommendation: here is the cool part - when you use their service you can pick any sole style for the shoe (want a golf shoe out of it? No problem, no extra charge!). if you intend to wear these for various purposes, including in moisture without toe rubbers, have them either use the tap sole (rubber skinned) OR use the oil impregnated sole found on the McTavish or Dalton. These soles wear well and are awesome!

 

[mhdena]

I have Topys put on all my leather soled shoes when I first buy em.

That way you only replace the Topy and heel and have the same original fit.

I had some Bally's about 17 years ago that I resoled and they didn't feel the same, so Topy when new ever since.

I have shoes that are 15-16 years old that have had the Topy or Vibram replaced and still wear well.

 

[johnniegold]

To Topy or Not to Topy? You decide.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/23523/eg-advise-against-topy-rubber-soles

 

[Blue-EyedSon]

Many thanks to all for the helpful advice. I suspected that they might need resoling soon and was okay with that figuring that the total cost, even with a full refurbishment, would be less than a new pair and I've wanted a pair of suede wing tips like these. I just have to decide now whether to send them back to Allen Edmonds or B. Nelson. The wording on AEs website is a bit more ambiguous than what others have experienced as it only indicates that work from some cobblers might prevent them from being able to do their restoration work. I'll have to check into that and thanks for bringing it to my attention!

 

[Jussi]

Take photos of your shoes and send them to AE. If they accept your shoes to be refurbished, they'll be able to do the whole shabang - you'll get a pair of shoes that is practically new after that.

I'd also ask if they can put on the steel toe taps (flush with the sole). That expands the life of soles very much (and, contrary to common misconception, they aren't loud at all).