And pinned. Sorry about the crappy shed lighting. It's either very soft or the harsh darts LEDs!
Thank you very much! Those suckers are genuinely dainty. Just about 1/10 of an inch thick and 3/8 wide at the pivot pin.Nice looking scales Jon. How thick are your scales and how do they strop?
I find a narrower scale at the pivot are easier to strop, also thinner is better, but you can only get wood so thin.
Nice work as are all your scales.
For reference, here's a shot with a penny:Thank you very much! Those suckers are genuinely dainty. Just about 1/10 of an inch thick and 3/8 wide at the pivot pin.
Haven't stropped her yet, but it just took a beautiful, narrow bevel in about 5 minutes (Shapton 1000).
Frank Lacerates!While finishing up a pair of scales for a Joseph Rodgers 13/16 near wedge (closest), I decided to rough out replacement scales for my John Heiffor 5/8 near wedge in black horn (middle) and Joseph Elliot 7/8 near wedge in blond horn (far).
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While doing so, I caught myself with the coping saw a couple of times. Good news that my tetanus shot is up to date.
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I am definitely getting faster/more efficient at making scales. For the Joseph Rodgers, I used a 4-in-1 rasp and cabinet scraper before the sandpaper to round/dome the tops - saved a lot of time.
Very nice!I cleaned up this Veritable Dumas & Cie that arrived two days ago.
I just brigthen some of the darker spots without erasing the nice patina completely.
The model seems to be rare as the typical #32 stamp for Dumas is missing and I was not able to find another one that looked like this (wedge grind with barbers notch, #32 missing).
Possibly dates around 1890.
After the cleanup it took a wonderful edge and provided a nice shave.
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