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How do you suspend the scales so that they don‘t get stuck to anything while the CA is curing?
I start with a coat or two on the inside for protection, then I hold the wedge end and do what I can on the outside while avoiding my thumb. Then I lay them over a pencil-sized metal rod to cure. Grab the pivot end and repeat. They rarely stick and can be easily separated if they do. I must admit that the acetone instant cure stuff has been deployed quite often recently!
 
I've been hunting for a few month and I now I have it.I tried to clean a little bit,but she wasnt a bad condition.I have a few Japanese razor,and now I feel kinda happyness.
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My first attempt rescaling using wood finished with CA. Did 3 coats followed by sending up to about 3k then 3 more coats and sanding to 12k (using micromesh). I’m thinking that was a mistake - I should have sanded to 12k on the first run as well. The other thing I did different (compared to turned projects using CA) is that I applied mineral oil to the wood before the CA. Usually I put CA on untreated wood. Comments welcome on both points! :)

The wood is Osage Orange. Originally native to a small area of the US centered on east Texas, it now grows pretty much everywhere in the US. Native Americans prized it for bows, settlers prized it as a thorny hedge. I highly recommend it!

As for the razor - its a Torrey 6/8+, I think it is a true Rattler. The tang is ground a bit asymmetrical and in fact it doesn’t want to drop cleanly between the scales, so may have to redo. The fact that the 2 scales are different thicknesses may be a contributing factor. But the starting point was 2 scales of completely different material, so this is a step up!

As purchased (this is one of my cheapest purchases, I think the scales really crippled the price) pinning material was a nail at one end, wire at the other end.
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With the new scales
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I don’t know if it is quarter-sawn. I did get it from the same guy that I got the Butternut from. Wood is interesting, some like Butternut and Sycamore show very differently when quarter-sawn, others do not.
 
Jon, looks like the wedge compound angle is not flat.

Mock up with bolts helps to alleviate problems, and pin the wedge side first. You do not need a compound taped wedge,, the razor should stop by hitting the top of the scales at the wedge.

You can plan this by measuring the thickness of the spine where you want blade to stop, then make the wedge that thickness on the wide side.

You are adding twist to the scales with the compound wedge. Scales should be allowed to flex through the movement as the razor is opened and closed.
 
I’m preparing g10 scales for 7/8 razor. The original had the additional 3rd pin in the middle as a rest. Does it make to repeat? What is the role of the 3rd pin?
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Not a razor I'm afraid, but I just finished doing some polishing work on an old yanagiba restoration project. Here when I got it:

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The geometry of this kind of knife is quite complex, and the tipping on that is pretty severe. It takes far, far longer to sort out than the same thing would on a normal double-bevel knife, and a little bit of understanding about how these knives are designed, in order to do well. Most of the heavy work was on a Norton SiC Coarse and Fine.

I made a handle up from Red Mallee Burl, with a Syrah vine wood spacer sandwiched by steel, and an Ebony ferrule:

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And here's the final kasumi polish, which I did on a trio of BBW. Slightly experimental, but worked well I think:

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Full process if anyone's interested: here.
 
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