What is a relatively close shave supposed to mean?

[zacharydz]

Hello all:

I'm still quite new to wet shaving, but I've been unclear as to what is to be expected for shaves that aren't quite BBS quality. I've never really thought of myself as having a heavy beard, but then again, I don't really know what criteria are used other than I need to shave daily.

My setup is a Merkur HD with Merkur blades, a shavemac finest badger brush (23mm), and either Taylor's Avocado or Rose cream.

I have managed to get some pretty close shaves on parts of my necks, but I haven't been able to get a very close shave everywhere and on a consistent basis. When I have gotten close shaves it was after 4 or 5 passes with touch-ups. But since my technique isn't up to par, I've had several days that I was too aggressive with the angle and payed for it the rest of the day.

When I tried a 3 pass shave of with, with, and across the grain (as recommended for some newbies) I've gotten pretty sub-par shaves that my electric could have done closer.

Basically, at this point I'm not sure if its just that my technique is poor, or if I really need something like 4 or 5 passes.

This is a picture from today's 3- pass shave of with, with and against. My neck is pretty smooth if I run my hand upwards with the grain and decently smooth if I run my hand across the grain, but it's incredibly rough if I run it down against the grain.

(On a side note, does the grain on most guys go downwards, and thus recommendations for N-S first passes? Mine is the opposite...)

Any guesses/recommendations for how many passes I probably should be doing?

Thanks in advance,
Zach

 

[Kyle]

Zach,

It is not uncommon for the hair on the lower portion of the neck to grow upwards, sideways, or even in swirls. The basic premise of a multiple pass shave for an experienced shaver is to go with the grain, transverse-with, and transverse-against. This saves the most aggressive pass (transverse-against) for last when the whiskers are at their shortest and less likely to "pull", causing one to get those nifty little weepers. Having said this, the neck is often times the most difficult area to master because the skin there is so loose. Seeing as I have only recently mastered my own neck issues, I'll leave further explanation/advice to one of our more seasoned members.

 

[DoubleE]

Zach:

The tools you're using should be able to accomplish the job easily enough. So....tell us a little more about your prep. Are you shaving in the shower, after a shower, or using a hot towel/cloth on your face before shaving?

Are you stretching the skin as you shave. I can't get that BBS shave without a little skin stretching. It also takes me at least 3 and most times 4 passes to achieve the shave I'm satisfied with. I also do one with the grain, one, sometimes two across the grain, and always my last is against the grain. I then do clean-up duty around the chin, jaw line, and neck after checking for any problem areas.

The hair could quite possibly grow in several directions on different areas of your neck. Mine does and it's my greatest problem area as well. Get to know which direction your hair grows and where by rubbing your wet fingers over the skin to determine direction.

A little more information and my guess is someone will diagnose the minor adjustment you need to make.

 

[KUJO]

Zach,

Like anything else in life, the "theories" are only approximations of reality; you need to tailor these methods for your specifics.

I found that, generally, I do need to do a N-S pass to start, then some transverse passes. But my against the grain passes vary by region. On the left side of my neck, I need to go laterally (chin to ear), while on the chin, I need to go S-N and right to left within 1/2" range.

I learned a lot by feeling the grain of my face at the end of the shave while putting on a balm. Over successive shaves I started taking small dabs of lather after the 2d & 3d passess across small regions, feeling the direction of the grain, then swiping across it in short strokes with the finest Japanese Steel (Feather Hi-Stainless)

 

[zacharydz]

Zach:

The tools you're using should be able to accomplish the job easily enough. So....tell us a little more about your prep. Are you shaving in the shower, after a shower, or using a hot towel/cloth on your face before shaving?

Are you stretching the skin as you shave. I can't get that BBS shave without a little skin stretching. It also takes me at least 3 and most times 4 passes to achieve the shave I'm satisfied with. I also do one with the grain, one, sometimes two across the grain, and always my last is against the grain. I then do clean-up duty around the chin, jaw line, and neck after checking for any problem areas.

The hair could quite possibly grow in several directions on different areas of your neck. Mine does and it's my greatest problem area as well. Get to know which direction your hair grows and where by rubbing your wet fingers over the skin to determine direction.

A little more information and my guess is someone will diagnose the minor adjustment you need to make.

I shave after a shower, and then I take a hot towel and wrap it around my neck while I get everything ready. I usually use my hot pot, so I have pretty warm lather if that matters. I wash off my face with hot water after each pass.

 

[DoubleE]

I shave after a shower, and then I take a hot towel and wrap it around my neck while I get everything ready. I usually use my hot pot, so I have pretty warm lather if that matters. I wash off my face with hot water after each pass.

How about the skin stretching? The skin on the neck tends to be pretty loose.

 

[Justso]

Zach,

What the others have said is very true and one of the points I'll re-emphasize is this: necks are a pain to learn. The skin is loose, it rolls as your neck turns hiding some patches of hair, the hair grows in many different directions and it's very easy to get burn, cuts and irritation. Your shaving rig is fine, can't go wrong w/Shavemac and Taylor and a hotpot.

What I would tell you is that it's going to take a little time of you learning your face to get that glass smooth neck you're wanting.

Everyone's patterns are different, but just to give you an idea, I spent more time on my neck area than the rest of my face because it's so tricky to get close. When I was learning, I really got irritation and seemed to always get nicks & blood spots. But now, after having gone through that trial, I can get it about 90% of the time with no irritation. Don't get frustrated, it just takes some time. Also, and I'm sure this goes without saying but I'm going to say it, make sure that blade is sharp!

 

[AACJ]

I shave after a shower, and then I take a hot towel and wrap it around my neck while I get everything ready. I usually use my hot pot, so I have pretty warm lather if that matters. I wash off my face with hot water after each pass.

Have you ever shaved IN THE SHOWER? I do and have noticed when I do, I don't get irritation or bumps. Plus, its easier to clean up and the water helps keep your face wet, ie..wetshaving. Plus if you do get a bleeder, the water will also help clot quicker and you can save your toilet paper.

 

[zacharydz]

Well, I decided to try out my old Schick Eversharp injector today with Taylor's Almond cream. Thus far my injector has proved to be far more consistent with the shaves, and ironically I've managed to get much closer shaves with it. I'm currently just using some Rite-Aid brand injector blades, and it seems to be working fine. I did 4 passes (with, 2 across, and against) with some touch ups around my adam's apple. This shave is about as close as I was able to do with 2 or 3 passes with a Mach3, and I didn't get the irritation with the injector like I would with a Mach3.

I think I'm going to hold off using my Merkur HD for another month until I shave off my beard. The DE probably won't be as frustrating if I can practice other, less difficult areas than just my neck.

edit: I forgot to mention that I have been stretching my skin for both the injector and DE shaves.

I think shaving in the shower would be more of a pain; I don't have any small mirrors and nowhere to put any of my shaving gear. I don't think my difficulties are due to my skin not being prepped enough since I do the same prep and sometimes get a decent shave and sometimes don't. I think my technique is the culprit.