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- #61
Is the knife in the bin yet?
What did you hone today? -Knife and tool edition
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Just trying a new stone, Chosera 3K it did real nice on this Aogami Super. No more than a touch up.
Is that an Okeya brand kiradashi? That is the only folding one I have ever seen, and the one that I saw came from the factory with some pretty messy grind scratches on it.
Yes this one is the Okeya Aogami blue #2 single beveled. They also now have a double beveled in Stainless. Yeah it took a bit to remove those grind marks. It is a really nice knife though and can take an incredible sharp edge.
Haha... yep - apparently it was trying to joint a turkey at Christmas. That knife also had an extraordinarily thin grind bte, even by the standards of Blenheim Forge. It was rather beautiful actually, but just picking it up to look at it made me worried it was going to snap.
I could've fixed it on stones for her, but it would've been annoying, and I know the knifemaker who'll happily do it if I take along to them
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First session with the Cerax 1k/3k @cotedupy
The edge on the Vic was too toothy so I took it to the 3k. The other one saw both sides - it’s definitely better than before but still no effortless cutting through a sheet of paper so I’ll do a second round in the next few days.
The edge on the Vic was too toothy so I took it to the 3k. The other one saw both sides - it’s definitely better than before but still no effortless cutting through a sheet of paper so I’ll do a second round in the next few days.
Found this tiny little baby Leatherman from when I was about 8 years old, and it actually took rather a good edge of this coti slurry stone.
Later I'm going to have a proper crack on a couple of stainless Victorinox I found at my folks' place. They're actually in much worse condition than they look in this picture, and though the steel is quite soft it's also quite wear-resistant, so I'm not expecting this to be particularly easy.
Later I'm going to have a proper crack on a couple of stainless Victorinox I found at my folks' place. They're actually in much worse condition than they look in this picture, and though the steel is quite soft it's also quite wear-resistant, so I'm not expecting this to be particularly easy.
As a side note - those two Victorinox above look fairly normal in terms of shape don't they? But they're not. The profile is actually quite extreme, and imo really not very good...
In the picture below I've now angled one of them so that the cutting edge is what you might expect in a standard chef's knife or gyuto, with a reasonably long flat-ish section out of the heel that does most of your normal cutting on the board (represented by the gap in the decking). And look at the angle at which the handle comes up into where your wrist/forearm would be.
This design pretty much stops you from comfortably using a normal pinch grip and push cutting motion.
In the picture below I've now angled one of them so that the cutting edge is what you might expect in a standard chef's knife or gyuto, with a reasonably long flat-ish section out of the heel that does most of your normal cutting on the board (represented by the gap in the decking). And look at the angle at which the handle comes up into where your wrist/forearm would be.
This design pretty much stops you from comfortably using a normal pinch grip and push cutting motion.
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My daily driver a Watanabe Blue #2 was a bit off this afternoon so I pulled out my recently-acquired coticule/BBW to give the Blue side something to do. After a few back and forths I decided that the burr wasn’t forming fast enough, so I dug out a vintage Pike Washita. One batch of 1/2 strokes later I had a burr on the entire edge. I then transitioned back to the BBW and stopped there. I’ve got a butternut squash to chop up later this afternoon, I will see how it holds up.
Might try a little BBW polish and coti edge touch up on the Shibata later...
Second round with the 9“ and it’s slowly getting better
Touch up on the D2 Bestech
Touch up on the D2 Bestech
and another 3 touch ups
Final 3 for today…
Touchup on the Sunfish, a bit more work on the other two. That slight recurve puzzled me quite a bit.
Touchup on the Sunfish, a bit more work on the other two. That slight recurve puzzled me quite a bit.
Little bit of an edge refresh on these two a bit, both very quick stones though quite different from each other. 7 & 8 x 1.75".
I had one like that last week to hone. The only way I could make contact on the recurve was to turn the stone up on its edge and hone it that way. Even my little shapton glass 7’s were too wide to make contact.
That kind of thing is a bloody nightmare!
The best thing to do is take a softer stone, preferably a synth, and round one of the lengthways edges. Either in a semi-circle, or quarter circle.
So if you look at the stone 'end on' it would be like the pictures below. This is the end or cross-section of the stone rather than the cutting surface (and apologies for the somewhat... err... phallic nature of these drawings!):
No obviously you can't really do that with a Shapton Glass, so perhaps another option David might be the BBW side of a coti. A number of stones I've had were almost cut like that already - it wouldn't take much atoma / sanding time from here to round it to a suitable state:
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- #77
These sorts of blades are why I still haven’t put my Spyderco Sharpmaker set in storage.
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- #78
It was sharpening exactly that kind of folding mushroom / grafting knife that led me to playing around with rounding the edges of stones. This is a piece of YL type slate I made for it.
Double post. For the fun of it I took this one way way up the assembly line. The edge is screaming. It wouldn’t HHT but it whittled the hair a bit. Probably won’t last long but I’m not terribly hard on this knife.
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