What determines when a razor is aggressive or gentle

[shm]

As the title say, I would like to know if there is anything specific in the design of a razor that can let you determine how aggressive it is.

I've acquired a couple rolleyes of razors and measured the blade gap, but that definitely does not determine the aggressiveness alone.

I've made a spreadsheet with the above information: www.shm.dk/shave/gear.xls

Other factors I've thought about is:
¤ Razors with teeth (are they called open comb?) contra the ones with a bar. My guess is the latter is gentler.
¤ The distance from the safety device (teeth or bar) to the blade. My guess is the shorter distance the more aggressive.
¤ The angle of which the blade cuts the hair. Although this is something you have some control of yourself.

...and maybe more things I haven't thought about.


I know curiosity killed the cat, but I'm human so I'm not worried

 

[Hughies_online]

The degree of blade exposure and the angle of the blade are main factors. But other considerations are the user (how much pressure is used), the type of blade and the type and density of the lather.

It is possible to use a so-called aggressive razor in a mild way for instance, by using a less than light-saber sharp blade (eg derby instead of a feather), a gentle touch and a thick glycerine-based soap. YMMV.

 

[Bertilak]

As the title say, I would like to know if there is anything specific in the design of a razor that can let you determine how aggressive it is.

The trick is to define what it means to be aggressive. For me, aggressiveness means the degree to which the safety features of a safety razors come into play -- the less in play, the more aggressive. And this boils down to how far the blade "sticks out" past those safety features. This has been called "blade exposure" for many decades. I think "aggressiveness" is a newer, less well-established, term but I would equate that to exposure almost 100%. Given the lack of a formal definition, the term "aggressiveness" could also include other aspects that effect the nature of the shaving experience, perhaps blade angle would be an example. As a counter example. "sharpness" is a feature of the blade, not the razor.

Please see http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/inde...by_Aggressiveness#Aggressiveness_and_Exposure

¤ Razors with teeth (are they called open comb?) contra the ones with a bar. My guess is the latter is gentler.

Comb vs. bar guard has nothing to do with aggressiveness. Either can have more or less exposure.

¤ The distance from the safety device (teeth or bar) to the blade. My guess is the shorter distance the more aggressive.

Just the opposite would tend to be true. The further the edge of the blade is from the safety features (guard and cap) the more aggressive the razor is. This is the "gap" discussed in the above link. The gap can be a rough analogue to exposure and is easier to measure.

¤ The angle of which the blade cuts the hair. Although this is something you have some control of yourself.

This can partly be a function of the razor -- it does have an inherent angle at which it presents the blade. Some people might reasonable consider that to be encompassed by the amorphous term "aggressiveness".

 

[rainman]

Most has been covered. Blade gap, exposure, angle, weight.

Also how you can alter the shave from your pressure, blade and lather used, and technique I'd say.

Although not thought of as a factor, open comb for me does make it more aggressive.

There is also an unseen factor that sometimes cannot be explained. For instance, everyone talks of the Old Type Muehle R89 to be very aggressive. There is hardly any blade gap here. According to some blade gap is everything. Their theory seems severely flawed in this case and others.

 

[rainman]

Also to add, you will also have a wide array of reactions to different razors. What some call aggressive, others will call mild. In a way, you could go with what the majority agree to if even possible and try those razors.

 

[Manos]

I've been trying to understand the concept of razor aggressiveness. One of the primary characteristics I use to assess razors and blades is tactile feedback, or how much resistance I feel when I drag the razor across my face. The Gillette Tech razor poses a problem in my assessments. Many here comment on how mild or un-aggressive this razor is. But I feel a moderate amount of resistance, or feedback, when I use it. I receive less tactile feedback from a Super Speed razor. I realize the blade gap has been measured and is supposed to be larger on the Super Speed, and smaller on the Tech. I am attributing the difference in feedback to other factors influencing blade exposure.

 

[r0ckrat]

Items that I've considered as factors personally, but have not put out there before:

• How far the blade extends from under the cap.
• The size/thickness of the cap.
• The radius to which the blade is bent.
• The gap between the blade and guard.
• The distance from blade edge to guard edge.
• The shape of the guard.

To me, all of the above play a role in how "aggressive" a razor might be. I personally believe that the cap design and blade curvature play a great roll in how aggressive most razors are, as this determines blade angle to the skin. Once the blade is exposed to the skin, the guard (and "blade gap") can either limit or allow greater blade angle. But that's about all it can do. The least angle possible is controlled by the cap, and by how much curvature there is in the blade.

That's my .02 cents, anyway.

 

[shm]

Please see http://wiki.badgerandblade.com/inde...by_Aggressiveness#Aggressiveness_and_Exposure

I still don't think the blade gap is enough to describe a razor as aggressive. My own measurements and the ones in the wiki link clearly shows that a Merkur Futur has a large blade gap even at setting 1.
I have a Futur, and I don't think it is aggressive at that setting, I find it quite mild. The aggressiveness however does rise quite quickly in that razor, for me a setting at 4 is absolute maximum.

I know YMMV even for this and there are other points here I didn't think of, and I must say I find this interesting (being a geek and all )

 

[Bertilak]

I still don't think the blade gap is enough to describe a razor as aggressive.

exactly.