Puma Rescale Questions

[Honedright]

I’m finally prepared (I think) to rescale this Puma. I think this was my first straight razor that I purchased new from a cutlery shop in San Francisco in the 1980’s. It had faux tortoise scales, and, if I remember correctly, it had three pins. One pin was directly under the shank when the razor was closed. The scales eventually cracked at the pivot. Unfortunately, not knowing better at the time, I discarded the broken scales.

So my questions:

1) Is it necessary to replace the scales with three pins? Or will two pins be sufficient? If three, how should I assemble the middle pin?

2) Because of the plastic “grip” over the shank of the razor, should I need a custom wedge to insure a good fit for the blade?

Anything I’m missing?

Any help is appreciated!

 

[Honedright]

Just remembered, I believe the third middle pin had a clear plastic spacer around the pin and in between the scales.

 

[FarmerTan]

I am of NO help my friend, but that razor is in really nice condition.

 

[Honedright]

I am of NO help my friend, but that razor is in really nice condition.

It’s been wrapped up and in storage for years. After taking the photo I noticed a little damage on the heel. This razor suffered through all of my frustrating initial learning. It’s amazing that it survived at all.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

Yea don’t sweat the heel, it is in need of heel correction and that will remove all that damage anyway. Honing on the stabilizer and using pressure to force the heel on the stone, will cause that kind of damage and excessive spine wear, that the razor may have. Nothing, a layer or two would not fix.

No, you don’t need to have a third pin if the wedge opens the scales enough to clear the rubber grip. The wedge angle should be the same wedge angle as the taper of the tang. Same angle, not necessarily the same width as the tang.

Make an interior spacer a bit wider than the rubber grip, I have used rubber hose, plastic tube, brass tube, and plastic pen ink tubes. The middle pin should not contact the bottom of the tang but should be centered top to bottom as the wedge and pivot pins. And should be well clear 2-4 mm from the end of the heel.

A middle-pined razors was a sign of a better-quality razors, and some say maintained the scales from warping.

This is a prime example of doing all your design work on paper first, mistakes are easy to correct. Find a scale design you like then adjust/fit on paper to the blade. Then glue your final design template to the scales, glued together and drill your holes with a drill press, then shape.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

BTW, I have cut off the rubber grip and rescaled. For me the rubber grip is a rust breading ground.

 

[Honedright]

So far I have watched several videos on making and shaping scales, as well as pinning and peening.

I have purchased:

1 set each of synthetic material red scales and Buffalo bone white scales.

1/16” od brass rods

#0 brass flat washers

1x 4 oz peening hammer

Once everything arrives I’m thinking I should get some wooden popsicle sticks and practice pinning before attempting the real thing.

 

[Honedright]

Yea don’t sweat the heel, it is in need of heel correction and that will remove all that damage anyway.

I read your tutorial on heel correction. 43 years shaving with a straight razor and I never knew of this.
Well, I learned something new…

And maybe I should change my screen name… yikes!

Thank you Marty. I’ll give it a try.

 

[Wombat ESQ]

I will just say :- I like 3 pins

 

[Legion]

So far I have watched several videos on making and shaping scales, as well as pinning and peening.

I have purchased:

1 set each of synthetic material red scales and Buffalo bone white scales.

1/16” od brass rods

#0 brass flat washers

1x 4 oz peening hammer

Once everything arrives I’m thinking I should get some wooden popsicle sticks and practice pinning before attempting the real thing.

Practice makes perfect. That's a nice blade. I'd probably have a go at a couple of junkers first.

But it sounds like you have read a bit. go slow. Measure twice... etc.

If possible, mock it all up with bolts before you start peening anything.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

For an excellent photo tutorial on making scales, Google (How to make a traditional set of horn scales ... the way I do it.)

It is a step by step tutorial with excellent photos of the process. Karlej does impressive restorations. And horn is very easy to work, and finish.

This can all be applied to other scale material.

 

[Gamma]

The wedge does not need to have the exact same angle as the tang.
I would suggest you copy the dimensions of the original tang, or just re-use it though. Needs to be wide enough to keep the scales open enough for the toe to sit correctly. Obviously, too much or too little angle will cause issues so if the two ends of a new wedge are similar to the original you're ok but being 'off' a little isn't a crime.

The 3rd pin is a nice embellishment. Typically, with Solingen razors, it was a 'fancy' extra for 'better razors.
in theory it should help stabilize the scales. You can re-use the spacer from the originals. But placement is critical, if you are too close to the pivot the tang won't clear. Copy placement from the originals. It will probably keep the scales apart enough to clear the rubber pad.

The rubber pad is another nice added touch. If you can take it off and clean under it that's a good idea. Use hard wax underneath before replacing. Yeah, rust can develop there if it gets wet underneath so keep it dry. If you get rust it's not the end of the world, just pull the blade and clean it up.

 

[Honedright]

Including bone? I purchased a set of Buffalo bone scales that I thought would really be nice for the Puma. They are pre-cut, not drilled, but will require a custom fit to the blade. Includes a micarta wedge.

I’m a little scarce on power tools, but have a drill press and a set of drum sanders that chuck into the press. No band saw either. Just a coping saw.

I watched a video of someone making a small knife with scales produced from found deer bone. Seemed pretty straightforward. How much flexibility in bone scales? They are 5/32” thick. Do they need to be soaked, boiled and molded? Or do they have some give? Just don’t want them to crack.

 

[Honedright]

I have another Puma with original scales with a middle pin. I could use that as a template. But, would a middle pin work with bone scales? Since I’m considering using bone. Or maybe another material would be better for this project. Maybe horn as Marty suggested. I can save the bone scales for another project. I have a Wade and Butcher that could use new scales.

 

[Njguy1977]

I would go with horn since they will look great for years to come....bone has a tendency to get dirty in the pours of the material as time goes by.

Larry

 

[Gamma]

Most pre-cut bone scales I've seen were waaaay too thick and the wedge was a spacer not a wedge. You want a wedge and its best to have some flex in the scales.
You can add a 3rd pin to bone scales, there is no practical reason preventing that.
Horn might be easier to work with tho....

 

[Honedright]

Most pre-cut bone scales I've seen were waaaay too thick

Is 5/32” too thick? If so I could probably sand them down.

 

[Gamma]

I go by feel, not dimension. So, if they will pin relatively easily at the pivot that's one thing. If you need clamps to get them to close, then rethink things.

I'd guess you'd be best off thinning them though...take a look at razors with bone scales, they are usually elegant and trim. Not usually thick and clunky. You may want clunky, which is fine, but then you are looking at probably using more of a spacer than a wedge.

 

[Honedright]

Read the tutorial on making horn scales at SRP. I don’t have a belt sander and don’t plan to get one. No room for it. I’m concerned that my drum sanders might cause concavities if not really careful. I do have several cabinet scrapers which might come in handy. I’ve never worked with horn or bone. Do they work similarly?

Thanks to all for the help and advice BTW.

 

[Gamma]

You don't need machinery. Sandpaper and elbow grease works. Make a block out of a piece of wood if you like. Might want to use a rasp file to shape the curves.