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Wade & Butcher rescue

Hello everyone,

I recently saved a Wade and Butcher American Razor from life as a utility knife. I hope that I might get advice on whether this blade is suitable for restoration. The photo's show the dark spotting on the blade (the darker part at the tip is just shadow), but there are only two small pittings on the opposite side, far above the cutting edge, and there is a goodly sized pitting on the shank, also on the opposite side. They would not interfere with the business side of things at all.

My concern is in regards to the cutting edge. Whoever sharpened this in the past did so as a knife.

1) Do you think that this blade can be honed without doing damage to the eagle? The eagle etching is deep and I love the way it looks, so I don't want to loose the bird. I will not do the honing myself, as I have ever honed a straight razor.
2) If I may ask, can anyone recommend someone for the honing? I'd like to find someone that can hone, clean and polish the blade.

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I just restored two of those exact blades. Honing won't affect the Eagle. For all the years it's been around and how many times it's been honed it's still there. If in doubt tape it. But even the top of the wing of the bird isn't that close to the hone line and a lot of steel has to be removed before it hits it. But the subtle curve in the blade will not allow the hone to touch it.
 

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I have to ask, what's your secret to do such a perfect job on the pins? The devil is in the details, as they say, and it seems all the razors you do have perfect finish. It doesn't seem like you're actually using washers on the outside of the razor, are they some kind of locking collar?

To the OP: Its a real great find you have there! I guess I will have to search a lot more outside of ebay to find nice razors!

I just restored two of those exact blades. Honing won't affect the Eagle. For all the years it's been around and how many times it's been honed it's still there. If in doubt tape it. But even the top of the wing of the bird isn't that close to the hone line and a lot of steel has to be removed before it hits it. But the subtle curve in the blade will not allow the hone to touch it.
 
Just to clarify when I said "tape it" I didn't mean the image, I meant the spine. A bit of tape will lift it a tad more if you're afraid of touching the image.
@pmaster. Nope, regular washers and pins. # 0 washers, which I just had to order another 200 of em for most regular repinning jobs. Then there are the Bullseye and stacked pieces but that's another story.
I know everyone says you need a peening hammer, what weight to get, how to use it , ball end,,,etc. etc. Tried it, bought a beautiful small peeing hammer and it ended up as a pretty wall hanger which gathers dust. I understand the concept of what guys are trying to do but it just doesn't make sense to me.

I generally don't do what everyone else says to do. I guess it's in my nature. If you want different results don't do what everyone else does. Of course this tact always got me in trouble with my Mom and Dad as a kid.

Then it gets into how much pin you leave exposed, how much of a peen you do prior to inserting the pin in the scales, when the scales are held by the initial peening just to keep them together what you do to the remaining exposed pin to achieve a certain effect. It's a matter of trial and error to see just what can happen and what finish you want to end up with. You can go from an almost ball effect to a full mushroom making it appear as if there is just a sliver of washer ( like the old original ones which were almost not there). All this just to keep scales together. Go figure!
Here is another example of the same pin and washer arrangement which came out slightly different looking. Looks like the pin is large and the washer is barely there.
Funny. I thought these were details nobody saw. I do it to make it fun or look more original.
 
Funny. I thought these were details nobody saw. I do it to make it fun or look more original.

The razors you posted look beautiful, but the pins and washers in your photographs are what I found myself staring at and admiring. You may discount them as just a small detail, but those little details are fantastic.
 
Very interesting. I guess I will have a go at it and try to have fun and figure out what's best on! Everytime you post some of you work I keep thinking wow, how in hell can he do such a nice finishing job! I'm sure most people notice the pinning but on a subconscious level. When you look at the razor you look it as a whole. If the pins are so-so, I believe it will make a difference in finding it "perfect" or just "very nice".
 
Wow, I'm glad to hear I haven't been doing this for my own amusement or doing it in vain. The ones I particularly enjoy doing which I'm sure you've all seen before are these shown here.The originals with the scales and my piece with new scales.
Now I noticed the ones that only seem to appear that are unusual and I haven't figured out yet are the ones I've only seen on the American Eagle razor. I tried saving them from the resto's I did but haven't had time to work on that design.Unfortunately the originals are so thin I guess after all this time they basically collapsed even with backers. They are almost little bell shaped affairs that are quite unique. I'll figure something out sometime.

Note, the first shot it appears as if the pin is bent, it's not, it's a reflection from the black stand. Similar thing in the above photo where in the pin, it's a reflection of my hands holding the camera believe it or not. Or reflecting something else in the booth. I saw that and had to inspect the pins again. They're round, not dimpled. Phew!
 

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Mark, then the question is, how do you swedge the pin tops then to make them so perfect or do you get the look from sanding and polishing?
 
Peening takes care of most of it, then I work them a bit before polishing.
We got a bit off track. My apologies to the OP! Didn't mean to go astray as we did. Sorry.
 
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