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The Summer of Semogue

Recently acquired a trio of Semogue Misturas: The Semogue/RazoRock Amici, SOC 2012 SE, and 2013 Barbear Clássico. I have never really given the Mistura knot a try so it will be interesting to compare how all three perform. This Summer is definitely one for Semogues!
 
Keep in mind that I am still breaking in the boars:
  • The 1250 is a tough customer capable of chewing up any soap. Very firm. Feels like a smaller, firmer SOC. I like the plain ash handle a lot.
  • The 1305 seems to fit the sweet spot. The knot is a little softer than the 1250. Great 22 mm brush. The dyed hair and painted handle are growing on me.
  • The 2015 HD is a terrific 22 mm 2-band finest badger brush. It's a little lather machine with soft tips and ample backbone, and a great cherry handle. The fact that you can get this brush delivered for under $65, makes it a terrific choice for someone wanting to try a badger. Think of this brush as a younger brother/sister to the SOC 2-band finest.
  • I was a little skeptical about a boar/badger mix, but the SOC Mistura has exceeded my expectations. Wonderful brush that nicely blends the positives of both boar and badger.
I know that Semogue is best known for their boars, but their SOC and 2015 HD are terrific 2-band finest badgers, and Semogue is clearly selective about the badger hair they use and their overall build quality.



This is what I see on the web:
  • Portuguese Factory and Vintage Scent carry the 2000 in ash.
  • Italian Barber and Maggard carry the 2000 in beech.
  • Gifts and Care in oak.
  • West Coast Shaving doesn't specify.
My rationale for buying the 2000 in ash was I read that beech is known to absorb water and Babe Ruth used ash bats.

Great reviews. Thank you.

Your comments on the 1305 make me want to lather up the 830 for the first time tomorrow. I considered it today, but it looks a little lofty to me, so I passed it over. I don't know what the mental hangup is. It may be used for the shave tomorrow; it will certainly be lathered.

I have to say that I've strongly considered the SOC 2-band Finest, even though I am in a boar frame of mind at present. Your comments on that and the 2015 HD nudge me further in that direction.

I have the SOC Mistura, too, which I bought on a whim, and it is really terrific. Honestly, if I wanted to be a true minimalist, I'd just use the Mistura and be done with it.

I will have to look at other handle options for the 2000. I concur with your positive view of the 1250. So far, that and the 1470 are the leaders of the pack for me.

Right now I have 3 Semogue brushes and two more on the way from the Portuguese Factory. All of them are boar. Definitely make sure to pick up an SOC, it’s my favorite even over some more expensive badger brushes I own.

!!!
I want to hear more about those you have and those that are set to arrive!
Recently acquired a trio of Semogue Misturas: The Semogue/RazoRock Amici, SOC 2012 SE, and 2013 Barbear Clássico. I have never really given the Mistura knot a try so it will be interesting to compare how all three perform. This Summer is definitely one for Semogues!

The Mistura knot is really good IMO. I have the 2013 and the current SOC versions, and they are simply outstanding. I'll be interested to hear your thoughts on those.
 
It was your comments on the 1800 that convinced me to try it. Digging through old threads, your description made it sound totally unique. So far, it just eats lather, but it's only got 5 lathers on it.

Yeah it'll do that for the first several uses.

Once broken in, it's the most perfect boar brush.
 
I would get the 2000 instead of the SOC. The 2000 does what you would expect the SOC to do with a pleasant firm backbone.

The 2000 is a BIG brush with a tall loft, so keep that in mind. The SOC is more balanced in terms of "proportion".
But if you've big hands and a big face :redface-new:, go for the 2000, it's like taking the Lincoln Continental out of the garage for a Sunday drive.:adoration:
 
I just used my 2015 HD to whip up a luxurious batch of Truefitt & Hill 1805 cream and then proceeded to mow down four days of growth with no resistance. It seems as if the 2015 HD is underappreciated. This is one brush that is not leaving my den!
 
The 1800 turned a corner today, yielding 3 passes' worth of lather. To help it, I used a batch of homemade soap that lathers easily. Even still, I was really happy with the lather and feel today. I know there's another corner to turn when the lather will come even easier and be more plentiful and durable yet, but at least now the bursh is usable for a full shave without

In terms of breaking in these brushes, I do enjoy using them during break-in and observing the changes they make. However, I don't insist on actual shaves being the only time I lather them. Given the sheer number of brushes I've gotten in the last few weeks, that's a fool's errand. I use them in a very loose rotation, pretty much deciding what brush sounds best for tomorrow when today's shave is over. The remaining brushes that won't be used for 48 hours or more get lathered (except for yesterday's brush, which I want to be bone dry before its next soak-lather-rinse-dry cycle). So today I used the 1800, left the Torga that I used yesterday alone, and will lather up the 1250 and 830 before the day is over. Tomorrow I'll use the 1470. Meantime, my 610 and 620 came in today, so they'll get an inaugural soak-lather-rinse today, too. All of these will get lathered again Saturday if they're not used for the shave that day or on deck for Sunday. Yes, it's all neurotic and weird. But I'm a bit bored and this is healthier and less expensive than whiskey or cigars.

I'm planning to use the 1470 tomorrow and the 1250 on Saturday. That allows two lathers on the 610 and 620 before they get their first use on Monday and Tuesday, respectively (Sunday's brush is TBD, but the 1800 was so nice today...).
 
The 830 created mountains of lather on its first go-round. I half wanted to shave at that point to avoid wasting it. I will put it into the Sunday slot this week. Looking forward to it.

I like the face-washing idea. I have an old homemade soap that had too much coconut oil. It makes fluffy lather and cleanses well. So I use that for brush break-in lathers that aren't for shaving. I used to use Arko for the same purpose, but Arko plus boar funk is horrible. This soap has a mild scent.
 
My 1438 arrived yesterday. I soaked it in cold water for a few hours and washed it out. Then I did a few soak and dry with a hair dryer cycles, and the ends are splitting very nicely. After 3 wash & dry cycles I whipped up a handful of Haslinger. Took me about 30 seconds. What a little beast this brush is. I had enough lather for a week of shaves.

I also ordered a 1460 which should be here anytime now. Maybe I'm odd but I find these little painted handles really attractive. These brushes are cheap to buy but they are not cheap tat.
 
The plan for the next 7 days

Saturday - Use 1800, lather 610 and 620

Sunday - Use 830, lather Torga and 1250

Monday - Use 1470, lather 1800 and 610

Tuesday - Use 620, lather 830 and 1250

Wednesday - Use Torga, lather 1800 and 1470

Thursday - Use 610, lather 1250 and 620

Friday - Use 1800, lather 1470 and Torga

Something along these lines puts at least 5 lathers on every brush by the end of the week, with each used for at least one shave. After that, it will probably be more random. I'm not going to write about this daily (mercifully, for all of us), but will probably try to make some comments each week. I'd love pictures and accounts of other guys breaking in or just using old favorite Semogues, particularly pointers on various models and their strong suits.

I don't do long soaks but am willing to mix it up a bit with soaking as little as a minute or as long as 5 before a shave, and I'm open to loading with very wet brushes or loading relatively dry and adding water slowly. I'm a face latherer and not looking to use a bowl.

Looking forward to learning the ins and outs of these unique boars.
 
The 1470 continues to chew up soaps and spit out lather with ease, but it also continues dropping 2-3 hairs/shave. 10 lathers in now and it hasn't abated, which is bothersome. Hopefully it quits soon. Meanwhile, the 1800 is sneaking up to join the 1250 for strong contender status.
 
My 1460 arrived, which is the painted handle version of the 1470. I have given it a wash and soak and can tell it's going to be a stonker. Very soft and plush already. It's different to the 1438 for sure and the differences justify having both.
 
My 620 has five lathers on it now, and today was its first use for a full shave. Very impressive. I've been using the 1470 regularly, which is the same knot as the 610, and I knew there would be differences, but I didn't realize how distinct the 620 knot would be. It lathers bigger than its spec, and it feels great on the face. Scrubby but no scratch. I'll see how things progress, but as of now, I am thinking that if this knot were available in the wooden SOC-style handle, it would be a perfect brush.

610 tomorrow. First shave with it, although it has been lathered a few times and is theoretically the same as the 1470 I've been using.
 
Here's my Smoggies...

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The boars are still breaking in and the 2015HD arrived today so I haven't used it. I washed it though and it feels pure luxury. The boars are all stonkin good brushes and Semogue are very clever at using different grades of hair with different lofts and handles. They know how to enable. Every brush is different. The 1800 already has surprisingly soft tips. It could be the winner...but...but...the 1250 is fantastic as well. And those two little face mashers are great. The 1438 might be the winner there but who knows?

I found two thick scratchy hairs in the 1460 and pulled them out. I couldn't believe it. It looked just like nylon. I swear it was transparent. Then I burned it and , fear not it was boar hair. Smells quite vulgar.

Looking forward to using the 2015HD. They are advertised all over as Silvertip but The Portuguese Factory describes them as Super, or maybe there's two different types, dunno. Whatever, but they are very soft.

For some reason the 1250 looks huge in that pic but it's not. It's the same size as the 1800 next to it.
 
I'm joining the party late, but here's my take based on the Semogues I own. All are very well broken in, with over 100 shaves on each, and over 620 shaves on my 620.

620 - bought in 2014 and used exclusively for over a year. Lots of scrubby backbone when new, but now is super soft with tons of bloom. It's no longer the backbone monster it used to be

Italian Barber 2012 LE - basically an undyed 1305. Was too floppy, so I reset it 5mm deeper in a new handle. Now it's like lathering with a pencil. Soft tips and great backbone with very little splay.

OG Barbear Classico Cerda and Mistura - the legends. Possibly the best brushes ever made

1800 - the biggest surprise, and my newest Semogue. It felt like a whisk broom while breaking in, which took about 50 shaves, them seemingly changed overnight into an amazing brush. Perfect natural splay, backbone, soft tips, and a great handle. A buddy with the same tastes as me got his the same week I did and his has less backbone than mine and broke in in about 10 shaves. Every time he describes it, it sounds like we're talking about different brushes.

Up until last year, I'd recommend the 620 as the best Semogue that's not discontinued, but now, the 1800 is the King of Semogues.

The only other Semogues that I don't have that interest me are the SOC and the Torga C5, but I don't see myself getting them anytime soon. I buy a new brush every year or two, but bought two in a week last week (Omega 10005 and 10104), but in my defense, my 24/57mm Zenith died and I'm in the process of transplanting my Omega 40033 knot into it.
 
My 1800 is coming along, but yeah, it's got some straw-like character at times here in the early going. I'm optimistic, though.

The Torga C5 is taking its time breaking in. Maybe 1/3 of the tips have split, and it holds lots of water and lather because it's so dense and has a chunky knot, but it's not feeling as spot-on as some of the others thus far.
 
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