- Thread starter
- #181
Also just wanted to say ty to everyone i know this is a hassle ...i appreciate it
Thats it!
- Thread starter hcoop112
- Start date
Definitely not a hassle, we love this stuff!!! We all learn from each other
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rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
OK, your bevel is not set.
Back to your 1k rock. Using VERY light pressure (no fingers on the blade), 50 laps each side with spine leading followed by 6 pull strokes each side to remove any microscopic bur. Then 40 laps each side doing the same, including pull strokes. Then 20 lapse each side, including pull strokes. Then 10 laps each side, including pull strokes.
From there move up to your next finest rock and give the blade 20 to 30 even lighter pressure laps edge leading. Again finish with 6 pull strokes. You should now have no reflection from any of the edge. If you do, give it more of the same laps on both rocks.
From there give the blade about 60 laps on a clean leather strop, holding the strop reasonably tight and light pressure with the blade so that there is almost no deflection in the leather while stropping. Now your edge should easily shave arm/leg hair along its full length. If not, go back and start again using even less pressure. The secret is less pressure (but more laps may be required to compensate).
Continue doing all this until everything passes. You have plenty of time. Don't try to rush it or make things faster.
Once you have a properly set bevel, then and only then start working your way up through your honing progression.
If you are finishing on 0.5um, 0.25um and 0.1um diamond pasted balsa strops and then maintaining the edge on 0.1um hanging balsa strop, this should be the only and last time that this blade will ever need to touch a whetstone/film.
As you get better at it, you will be able to reduce you laps on the 1k. After 5 to 10 successful blades you might be a honemeister
. Then you can charge others who just don't get it or don't want to $20 to $30 per blade for a job that should only take you 30 minutes.
Back to your 1k rock. Using VERY light pressure (no fingers on the blade), 50 laps each side with spine leading followed by 6 pull strokes each side to remove any microscopic bur. Then 40 laps each side doing the same, including pull strokes. Then 20 lapse each side, including pull strokes. Then 10 laps each side, including pull strokes.
From there move up to your next finest rock and give the blade 20 to 30 even lighter pressure laps edge leading. Again finish with 6 pull strokes. You should now have no reflection from any of the edge. If you do, give it more of the same laps on both rocks.
From there give the blade about 60 laps on a clean leather strop, holding the strop reasonably tight and light pressure with the blade so that there is almost no deflection in the leather while stropping. Now your edge should easily shave arm/leg hair along its full length. If not, go back and start again using even less pressure. The secret is less pressure (but more laps may be required to compensate).
Continue doing all this until everything passes. You have plenty of time. Don't try to rush it or make things faster.
Once you have a properly set bevel, then and only then start working your way up through your honing progression.
If you are finishing on 0.5um, 0.25um and 0.1um diamond pasted balsa strops and then maintaining the edge on 0.1um hanging balsa strop, this should be the only and last time that this blade will ever need to touch a whetstone/film.
As you get better at it, you will be able to reduce you laps on the 1k. After 5 to 10 successful blades you might be a honemeister
. Then you can charge others who just don't get it or don't want to $20 to $30 per blade for a job that should only take you 30 minutes.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #184
still no ding...its just not sharpening..it gets to a certain point then wont get any sharper..been on it for 2hrs straight
Actually, watch all @drmatt357 YT videos. This guy is awesome!
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
Do you mean that you cannot get to easily shave arm/leg hairs off you 1k and and next whetstone up?
BTW what is your next whetstone up?
- Thread starter
- #187
Im off to sleep been at this all day lol ...yea not easily like no pressure easy and it kinda scrapes the skin on my leg...if im making sense?
to make sure we all understand, I am going to say on a scale of 1 through 5 your result is not a good score, is that right?
although I have had some very sharp edges that had hair and skin "dust" for lack of a better term, when testing on dry skin. I like to test on slightly wet skin so I dab some water on my arm hair. so just want to make sure.
scraping could also suggest a larger angle of attack.., you should have a very low angle when testing, maybe even flat..
I would stick to 1000-5000 progression and test shave off that stropped.
I spent most of today lapping and honing on my Naniwa 12k for the first time, and I am pretty happy with the results - but I am only refreshing shave ready razors.
I went full OCD. I lapped the 12k with P600 (which took about 5-ish minutes) and then P800 (which was quick). My hardware store did not have any P1000/P1200. I used a ridiculous amount of electrical tape to attach the sheet of P600 to the marble slab. For the P800, I only used two short strips. If I was going to hone all day, I would definitely think about buying a couple of Atoma diamond plates.
Then I honed the practice Beau Brummel with tape on the spine. Before I put the razor to the stone, I inspected the edge with the loupe and tested the edge on an unwaxed apple (I forgot to buy cherry tomatoes). I could definitely see some small scratching. I started with full laps using light pressure, gently holding the razor with both hands. I tried using one hand, but I didn't feel like I had the needed control. Then I went to small circles, again using two hands, and I finished up with really light full strokes. I repeated the whole process and second time, and then did the same two rounds on the new Dovo Carre (Bismarck) following TSS's suit of not taping the spine.
To my eye, both edges look more polished with less scratching under the loupe and without the loupe under a lamp, and both razors seemed to slice the apple more easily after being honed. So I stropped both on canvas and leather, and tested each on my cheek. Both razors seemed slightly sharper and smoother. I will know more when I shave tomorrow.
Bottom line is I have now completed my first two refreshes/tune-ups, and the process was not as difficult or as scary as I expected.
I am now seriously thinking about picking up a not shave ready Gold Dollar, and some 1k, 4k and 8k stones so I can try my hand at setting a bevel
.
I went full OCD. I lapped the 12k with P600 (which took about 5-ish minutes) and then P800 (which was quick). My hardware store did not have any P1000/P1200. I used a ridiculous amount of electrical tape to attach the sheet of P600 to the marble slab. For the P800, I only used two short strips. If I was going to hone all day, I would definitely think about buying a couple of Atoma diamond plates.
Then I honed the practice Beau Brummel with tape on the spine. Before I put the razor to the stone, I inspected the edge with the loupe and tested the edge on an unwaxed apple (I forgot to buy cherry tomatoes). I could definitely see some small scratching. I started with full laps using light pressure, gently holding the razor with both hands. I tried using one hand, but I didn't feel like I had the needed control. Then I went to small circles, again using two hands, and I finished up with really light full strokes. I repeated the whole process and second time, and then did the same two rounds on the new Dovo Carre (Bismarck) following TSS's suit of not taping the spine.
To my eye, both edges look more polished with less scratching under the loupe and without the loupe under a lamp, and both razors seemed to slice the apple more easily after being honed. So I stropped both on canvas and leather, and tested each on my cheek. Both razors seemed slightly sharper and smoother. I will know more when I shave tomorrow.
Bottom line is I have now completed my first two refreshes/tune-ups, and the process was not as difficult or as scary as I expected.
I am now seriously thinking about picking up a not shave ready Gold Dollar, and some 1k, 4k and 8k stones so I can try my hand at setting a bevel
.Hey @hcoop111, I am sure that you have been watching videos. Here are two that I found really helpful:
- and. Eric Engle goes through a full progression minus setting the bevel (I think).
- . @Doc226 goes through a full progression, from setting the bevel on a 1k to a Shapton 4k to a Shapton 8k to finishing on a Nakayama Suita.
- Thread starter
- #192
Part of me wants to take a loss give up put the razor in a display or give it to grandad and stick to de and shavette...its just not getting sharp enough no matter what i do ..idk if i got a crappy razor or whats going on ...and i dont want to buy another razor to find out ...ill try a couple more sessions and if i cant bear fruit ill call it quits
That's just how I felt when I started, got a Kropp from the bay and learned to sharpen at the same time as learning to shave. Not a good idea but was frightened of spending a lot on a razor I may not be able to use. I have kept at it for 6 years now and very glad that I did, now I can put an edge on a razor that I like and modify it if I need to. The new Wacker that I received last week is sublime now that I have my own edge on it. Keep at it you will find a lot of satisfaction when you get to be able to put an edge on your own razor that you are proud of.
I suspect all of your problems are from not setting a good bevel. This is the hardest part of honing and once it is right the rest is refining and polishing.
The King 1k is a soaker stone, so be sure to give it 20 minutes or so under water before you start. That stone also tends to get muddy if you're not flushing it with water constantly. Excess slurry may be causing your bevel to be convex and could be why you are not getting a burr, and why you see light reflecting off of the edge. If the bevel is convex, the higher grit stones can't reach the edge. The stone is also known to dish easily, though I never had much problem with mine, so watch out for that.
The King 1k is a soaker stone, so be sure to give it 20 minutes or so under water before you start. That stone also tends to get muddy if you're not flushing it with water constantly. Excess slurry may be causing your bevel to be convex and could be why you are not getting a burr, and why you see light reflecting off of the edge. If the bevel is convex, the higher grit stones can't reach the edge. The stone is also known to dish easily, though I never had much problem with mine, so watch out for that.
- Thread starter
- #195
So maybe run a tap on it constantly on a light water pressure?
You don't need to go that far. Just keep a good layer of water on the stone with your spray bottle. You want to keep the slurry dilute. The pre soak makes it easier to keep the surface flooded.
I spent most of today lapping and honing on my Naniwa 12k for the first time, and I am pretty happy with the results - but I am only refreshing shave ready razors.
I went full OCD. I lapped the 12k with P600 (which took about 5-ish minutes) and then P800 (which was quick). My hardware store did not have any P1000/P1200. I used a ridiculous amount of electrical tape to attach the sheet of P600 to the marble slab. For the P800, I only used two short strips. If I was going to hone all day, I would definitely think about buying a couple of Atoma diamond plates.
Then I honed the practice Beau Brummel with tape on the spine. Before I put the razor to the stone, I inspected the edge with the loupe and tested the edge on an unwaxed apple (I forgot to buy cherry tomatoes). I could definitely see some small scratching. I started with full laps using light pressure, gently holding the razor with both hands. I tried using one hand, but I didn't feel like I had the needed control. Then I went to small circles, again using two hands, and I finished up with really light full strokes. I repeated the whole process and second time, and then did the same two rounds on the new Dovo Carre (Bismarck) following TSS's suit of not taping the spine.
To my eye, both edges look more polished with less scratching under the loupe and without the loupe under a lamp, and both razors seemed to slice the apple more easily after being honed. So I stropped both on canvas and leather, and tested each on my cheek. Both razors seemed slightly sharper and smoother. I will know more when I shave tomorrow.
Bottom line is I have now completed my first two refreshes/tune-ups, and the process was not as difficult or as scary as I expected.
I am now seriously thinking about picking up a not shave ready Gold Dollar, and some 1k, 4k and 8k stones so I can try my hand at setting a bevel
and...................
down the rabbit hole you go!!!!
welcome down here. we have cookies.
camo
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
And my girlfriends say I bake the best peanut butter cookies with crunchy peanuts.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
@Frank Shaves, keep on trying to hone one-handed, particularly after setting the bevel. It greatly helps in reducing honing pressure (and allows you to hone in-hand). Honing in-hand is highly recommend for those who are new to honing, and even preferred by some more experienced honers. I bevel set on bench with my 400, 1k and 6k synthetics ($30 total). The 400 is only used when heavy work needs to be done. I then go to in-hand lapping films and diamond pasted balsa strops.
I tried using one hand and using two hands with two hands winning for my first ride around the block. I am guessing that with more experience I will develop a better feel for the razor on the stone and gain comfort using one hand. I have also noticed that the more proficient honers move the blade in ways that seldom need a 3" wide stone, which is causing me to think about buying a 6" x 2" x 1/2" Arkansas to learn how to hone in-hand on a smaller surface, and to preserve my capital for more stones
.
