Soap Sample Passaround Box

[dfoulk]

Lather still looks a bit airy to me. Something like this is what I shoot for.

Not my pic and I'm not sure who's it is but it looks like the perfect lather to me. If you put your hands together and pull them apart there will be a stringiness to it.
I understand that we all like different things and this might not be right for everyone but if you his this mark you'll likely get better results from all of your soaps.

Another thing is to keep some good notes about the soap that you really liked when you have the boxes. Do be very selective as it's really easy to go overboard and buy several years worth of soap. I know I did.

 

[FloorPizza]

A recommendation. Start with a very dry brush and lather the soap sample in the bowl for a bit that way. Once you pick up a good amount of the soap start adding water four to six drops at a time and watch the lather change. This way you can stop when the lather is perfect instead of adding too much water and overshooting the mark. Any soap can give you a thin wet lather if you're not used to it.

For what's it worth, I second this. Start out with a very dry brush, and s l o w l y add water, working the added water in thoroughly before deciding if it needs more or not.

For guys that are used to face lathering, it can be tough trying to get the perfect lather in a bowl. David's recommendation gives you the best shot at it.

 

[A. Feitar]

For what's it worth, I second this. Start out with a very dry brush, and s l o w l y add water, working the added water in thoroughly before deciding if it needs more or not.

For guys that are used to face lathering, it can be tough trying to get the perfect lather in a bowl. David's recommendation gives you the best shot at it.

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. I will work on it. I need to be a little more patient and add water s l o w l y.

I am accustomed to face lathering with mostly Grooming Dept soaps. They are a thirsty soap that easily produce a slick, creamy lather for me.

 

[Iloverootbeer]

He could be lathe

Thanks for the advice. I appreciate it. I will work on it.

I am accustomed to face lathering with mostly Grooming Dept soaps. They are a thirsty soap that easily produce a slick, creamy lather.

You might be doing everything correctly. Lather created from vegan soap often lacks the "body" of tallow based products.

 

[A. Feitar]

Ok. I am learning to add the water slowly and take my time. I am gonna try again with some Viking Tree of Life Tallow soap.

I started with a squeezed and shaken out badger that was relatively dry. The soap loaded into the brush nicely. Then I started to add water slowly and just in droplets off my hand.

I continued to add water in droplets for 3-4 minutes and it developed very stiff peaks.

It was a shame to wash it all down the drain but this was a learning test and I had already shaved.

How does this look?

 

[Iloverootbeer]

Nice! The difference between tallow and vegan is obvious. Well done!

 

[dfoulk]

Ok, try this. Shake the excess water from the knot with a couple good flicks of your wrist pointing the brush at the sink when you do this. If you're unsure err on the side of a dryer brush. Use the brush to pick up the soap. Forget all about the finished lather at this time. Just get the overly dry mess of a soap onto the brush. We're talking just enough water added to pick up the soap. The brush will stick to the soap a bit while you're doing this. Add very little water as you want a dry mess at this point. After you get most of the soap onto the brush then add 4 to 6 drops or water. Seriously, count them and work that water into the soap that's obviously way too dry. After a minute or so, four to six more drops. I want you to see the soap go from completely way, way too dry and progress very slowly to the point where you could barely shave with it to the gel state. Repeat the 4 to 6 drops thing several times slowly as the lathers I'm seeing have all still overshot the mark for me.

Once you get past the gel state then the lather soaps up and seems to take on a bunch of air. The goal is to get a slick wet gel like lather while avoiding all of the air that I'm seeing in that lather. I fear that you're either starting with too much water or adding water too fast. Once I get to gel I add about six more drops so that the soap takes on a nice wet shine. The difference is the amount of air in the lather as my lathers have way less air than yours do. A less airy more dense gel like lather will give you better performance. Or at least it does for me.

Don't be afraid to undershoot the mark because if you find the razor not gliding smoothly you can always add a few drops of water directly to the brush and touch up the lather on your face. You can't take away water once it's there.

 

[A. Feitar]

Ok, try this. Shake the excess water from the knot with a couple good flicks of your wrist pointing the brush at the sink when you do this. If you're unsure err on the side of a dryer brush. Use the brush to pick up the soap. Forget all about the finished lather at this time. Just get the overly dry mess of a soap onto the brush. We're talking just enough water added to pick up the soap. The brush will stick to the soap a bit while you're doing this. Add very little water as you want a dry mess at this point. After you get most of the soap onto the brush then add 4 to 6 drops or water. Seriously, count them and work that water into the soap that's obviously way too dry. After a minute or so, four to six more drops. I want you to see the soap go from completely way, way too dry and progress very slowly to the point where you could barely shave with it to the gel state. Repeat the 4 to 6 drops thing several times slowly as the lathers I'm seeing have all still overshot the mark for me.

Once you get past the gel state then the lather soaps up and seems to take on a bunch of air. The goal is to get a slick wet gel like lather while avoiding all of the air that I'm seeing in that lather. I fear that you're either starting with too much water or adding water too fast. Once I get to gel I add about six more drops so that the soap takes on a nice wet shine. The difference is the amount of air in the lather as my lathers have way less air than yours do. A less airy more dense gel like lather will give you better performance. Or at least it does for me.

Don't be afraid to undershoot the mark because if you find the razor not gliding smoothly you can always add a few drops of water directly to the brush and touch up the lather on your face. You can't take away water once it's there.

I agree, the lather test I made with the Viking tallow soap was still too "airy". I will try your suggestions tomorrow morning. Thanks, Mike

 

[Iloverootbeer]

Ok, try this. Shake the excess water from the knot with a couple good flicks of your wrist pointing the brush at the sink when you do this. If you're unsure err on the side of a dryer brush. Use the brush to pick up the soap. Forget all about the finished lather at this time. Just get the overly dry mess of a soap onto the brush. We're talking just enough water added to pick up the soap. The brush will stick to the soap a bit while you're doing this. Add very little water as you want a dry mess at this point. After you get most of the soap onto the brush then add 4 to 6 drops or water. Seriously, count them and work that water into the soap that's obviously way too dry. After a minute or so, four to six more drops. I want you to see the soap go from completely way, way too dry and progress very slowly to the point where you could barely shave with it to the gel state. Repeat the 4 to 6 drops thing several times slowly as the lathers I'm seeing have all still overshot the mark for me.

Once you get past the gel state then the lather soaps up and seems to take on a bunch of air. The goal is to get a slick wet gel like lather while avoiding all of the air that I'm seeing in that lather. I fear that you're either starting with too much water or adding water too fast. Once I get to gel I add about six more drops so that the soap takes on a nice wet shine. The difference is the amount of air in the lather as my lathers have way less air than yours do. A less airy more dense gel like lather will give you better performance. Or at least it does for me.

Don't be afraid to undershoot the mark because if you find the razor not gliding smoothly you can always add a few drops of water directly to the brush and touch up the lather on your face. You can't take away water once it's there.

Very good explanation! Practice definitely makes perfect, and the second attempt was much better than the first.

 

[A. Feitar]

3rd attempt. I switched to a boar brush because I think the badger was holding too much water. I loaded a well shaked out boar

brush with the soap. I added the water in amounts of 3-5 drops. I did it so slowly that I could qualify for a job at the DMV.

 

[Iloverootbeer]

Bravo!

 

[Grundi]

3rd attempt. I switched to a boar brush because I think the badger was holding too much water. I loaded a well shaked out boarView attachment 984381 brush with the soap. I added the water in amounts of 3-5 drops. I did it so slowly that I could qualify for a job at the DMV.
View attachment 984382 View attachment 984383 View attachment 984384

Great pics and reviews!! And nice looking lather!!

 

[Iloverootbeer]

Ok, try this. Shake the excess water from the knot with a couple good flicks of your wrist pointing the brush at the sink when you do this. If you're unsure err on the side of a dryer brush. Use the brush to pick up the soap. Forget all about the finished lather at this time. Just get the overly dry mess of a soap onto the brush. We're talking just enough water added to pick up the soap. The brush will stick to the soap a bit while you're doing this. Add very little water as you want a dry mess at this point. After you get most of the soap onto the brush then add 4 to 6 drops or water. Seriously, count them and work that water into the soap that's obviously way too dry. After a minute or so, four to six more drops. I want you to see the soap go from completely way, way too dry and progress very slowly to the point where you could barely shave with it to the gel state. Repeat the 4 to 6 drops thing several times slowly as the lathers I'm seeing have all still overshot the mark for me.

Once you get past the gel state then the lather soaps up and seems to take on a bunch of air. The goal is to get a slick wet gel like lather while avoiding all of the air that I'm seeing in that lather. I fear that you're either starting with too much water or adding water too fast. Once I get to gel I add about six more drops so that the soap takes on a nice wet shine. The difference is the amount of air in the lather as my lathers have way less air than yours do. A less airy more dense gel like lather will give you better performance. Or at least it does for me.

Don't be afraid to undershoot the mark because if you find the razor not gliding smoothly you can always add a few drops of water directly to the brush and touch up the lather on your face. You can't take away water once it's there.

I just shaved, and built my lather using your technique. It worked very well, so thank you. It’s amazing how even one drop of water too many can really affect the lather.

 

[A. Feitar]

I just shaved, and built my lather using your technique. It worked very well, so thank you. It’s amazing how even one drop of water too many can really affect the lather.

It is the complete opposite of the Marco method which employs a sopping wet brush loaded on a puck.

 

[Iloverootbeer]

It is the complete opposite of the Marco method which employs a sopping wet brush loaded on a puck.

Yeah, I just realized how wet my brush really has been when I go for the soap...much too wet. You enjoying the pass around box so far?

 

[Wtd1911]

I just shaved, and built my lather using your technique. It worked very well, so thank you. It’s amazing how even one drop of water too many can really affect the lather.

I agree with his method. Just remember that you are applying this soap to a wet face for up to 3 passes and a pickup. Take that extra water into consideration while bowl lathering. I like mine in the bowl to be almost on the verge of shaving but not quite. Water already on the face finishes the job.

 

[Iloverootbeer]

I agree with his method. Just remember that you are applying this soap to a wet face for up to 3 passes and a pickup. Take that extra water into consideration while bowl lathering. I like mine in the bowl to be almost on the verge of shaving but not quite. Water already on the face finishes the job.View attachment 984416

True. It’s easy to mix up a lather, completely forgetting that your face is already wet. How important do you think it is to use a shave bowl with ridges in the bottom? Very big difference in lather production or not much?

 

[Wtd1911]

True. It’s easy to mix up a lather, completely forgetting that your face is already wet. How important do you think it is to use a shave bowl with ridges in the bottom? Very big difference in lather production or not much?

I use Captain's Choice ceramic and copper bowls along with Georgetown Pottery travel bowl and scuttle. I can build a great lather with all 3 but the Captain's Choice ceramic has I guess I'll say more Aggressive Ridges vs the Copper which are smoother. The GP bowl is larger with dots on the bottom. I also have a smooth soup bowl. What I have learned is this. The more aggressive the ridges the faster you can build lather but at the same time you are introducing more air. With soaps I know I use the Captain's Choice ceramic. (Saves a couple minutes) New soaps and soaps and creams that are less stout I use the copper or almost 80% of the time I use the Georgetown Pottery equipment. If I was required to use 2 products I would choose the Georgetown Pottery Bowl and the GP Scuttle.

 

[Iloverootbeer]

I use Captain's Choice ceramic and copper bowls along with Georgetown Pottery travel bowl and scuttle. I can build a great lather with all 3 but the Captain's Choice ceramic has I guess I'll say more Aggressive Ridges vs the Copper which are smoother. The GP bowl is larger with dots on the bottom. I also have a smooth soup bowl. What I have learned is this. The more aggressive the ridges the faster you can build lather but at the same time you are introducing more air. With soaps I know I use the Captain's Choice ceramic. (Saves a couple minutes) New soaps and soaps and creams that are less stout I use the copper or almost 80% of the time I use the Georgetown Pottery equipment. If I was required to use 2 products I would choose the Georgetown Pottery Bowl and the GP Scuttle.

Thank you for the thorough answer. I’ve been using a smooth ceramic bowl and I get decent lathers but I think it’s time to get a proper shave bowl and take it up a notch.

 

[Wtd1911]

Thank you for the thorough answer. I’ve been using a smooth ceramic bowl and I get decent lathers but I think it’s time to get a proper shave bowl and take it up a notch.

I do recommend the Georgetown Pottery travel bowl. Trust me, it ain't for travel. It's a big bowl! The Captain's Choice Ceramic bowls are more aggressive but I like them for a few soaps. YMMV. When I bowl lather I have the extra few minutes. Thus the GP 20 Scuttle in cold weather and the GP bowl 90% of bowl lathering. GP products are the first two pictures and Captain's Choice the 3rd. The GP bowl has ceramic dots only and the scuttle has dots and ridges. Dots for me = less air. The scuttle can be used with cold or hot water. Its great.