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Should I try blades in any particular order?

Which blade should I start using first?


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Considering I am a new to wet shaving, is there any particular order I should try to use my blades?

Yes there is.

What you need to figure out first is if mild blades, or sharp blades, or something in between, works best with your own razor / hair / skin sensitivity.

Ideally you want blades with consistent sharpness across several shaves. Many blades are not very consistent. That will make it hard to judge what works best.

I chose three blades - mild, average and sharp - based on this blade sharpness study and taking the best options from your list. You'll need to buy some Derby Extra if you want to try a mild blade.

Derby Extra - mild
Astra SP - average
Voskhod* - sharp

*Voskhod are just as sharp as feathers but more consistent.

That's plenty to start out with.
 
Now that razor I was even looking at buying just to give it a try. Can't go wrong at the price.

For blades you could try a drugstore, our local drugstore sells Wilkinson Sword Classic blades and they are worth trying.
 
Just did my first shave last night and will resume my experience.

First of all, the preping of my boar brush for first use went fine and it didn't have too much funk to it.

Loading the blade and using the mechanical part of the razor was fine. The razor felt wobbly when the butterfly mechanism was open but when closed, it felt really solid. I have nothing to relate to since it's the first safety razor I hold in my hand, but I can say its feels good and like a quality razor compared to every cartridge razors I've used.

I used hot water to make the soap bloom while I took a shower.

After my shower, I splashed the bloom water to my face and using the brush and Omega soap, I started to make a face lather and can say it felt really good and I had no problem making a rich and thick lather. It's the first time I use this type of soap but can say it felt a lot better than the canned cream. However, even if it was way thicker, it was nowhere as slick as the Aveno body wash gel I am usually shaving with it in the shower.

Now comes the interesting part, the shaving. I had a 3 days growth and set the razor to 1 to make sure it's not too aggressive. Getting the proper angle felt quite intuitive, but while it was cutting, it was not tugging even if it didn't feel very close to my skin. I told myself that the second or third pass would solve that. The only thing that felt weird, was the fact that I always had to think of making short stokes instead of long one. After doing the 1st pass WTG, I started a second pass ATG. I cranked the setting to 2½ when I realized how much it was leaving. It gave a closer shave, but felt a bit more irritating. When I got to the neck region, it didn't feel like it was cutting my skin, but the reality was otherwise. The third pass XTG felt the worst and quite irritating leaving my neck very red and a bit bloody.

I passed an alum block and really felt it, but it made the bleeding stop almost instantly. I used the styptic stick on one spot that was still bleeding. Waited about 5 minutes and rinsed my face with cold water.

Globally, it was one of the worst shave I ever had. The final result was not as good as what I get with cartridge razor and took 25 minutes more.

Very far from love at first sight, but I will still keep using this safety razor so I get my technique better. I am not sure how fast I will become doing a full shave and how close of a shave I will be achieve, because this shave was very far from BBS and took 6 times longer than what I am used to.
 
Maybe in the beginning keep it to two passes for a few shaves until you get your technique down. Use the least pressure possible but still being able to cut whiskers. After 35+ years of using cartridges and disposables I had a hard time with using light pressure. After 4 years of this I still have to keep telling myself "no pressure on the razor".

As time goes on you will pick up speed and will take less time. It takes me about 5 minutes than it took when I used canned and cartridges. half of that time is making lather and the other half is the extra passes I do.
 

Eben Stone

Staff member
Yes there is.

What you need to figure out first is if mild blades, or sharp blades, or something in between, works best with your own razor / hair / skin sensitivity.

Ideally you want blades with consistent sharpness across several shaves. Many blades are not very consistent. That will make it hard to judge what works best.

I chose three blades - mild, average and sharp - based on this blade sharpness study and taking the best options from your list. You'll need to buy some Derby Extra if you want to try a mild blade.

Derby Extra - mild
Astra SP - average
Voskhod* - sharp

*Voskhod are just as sharp as feathers but more consistent.

That's plenty to start out with.

^^ this
 
Just did my first shave last night and will resume my experience.

First of all, the preping of my boar brush for first use went fine and it didn't have too much funk to it.

Loading the blade and using the mechanical part of the razor was fine. The razor felt wobbly when the butterfly mechanism was open but when closed, it felt really solid. I have nothing to relate to since it's the first safety razor I hold in my hand, but I can say its feels good and like a quality razor compared to every cartridge razors I've used.

I used hot water to make the soap bloom while I took a shower.

After my shower, I splashed the bloom water to my face and using the brush and Omega soap, I started to make a face lather and can say it felt really good and I had no problem making a rich and thick lather. It's the first time I use this type of soap but can say it felt a lot better than the canned cream. However, even if it was way thicker, it was nowhere as slick as the Aveno body wash gel I am usually shaving with it in the shower.

Now comes the interesting part, the shaving. I had a 3 days growth and set the razor to 1 to make sure it's not too aggressive. Getting the proper angle felt quite intuitive, but while it was cutting, it was not tugging even if it didn't feel very close to my skin. I told myself that the second or third pass would solve that. The only thing that felt weird, was the fact that I always had to think of making short stokes instead of long one. After doing the 1st pass WTG, I started a second pass ATG. I cranked the setting to 2½ when I realized how much it was leaving. It gave a closer shave, but felt a bit more irritating. When I got to the neck region, it didn't feel like it was cutting my skin, but the reality was otherwise. The third pass XTG felt the worst and quite irritating leaving my neck very red and a bit bloody.

I passed an alum block and really felt it, but it made the bleeding stop almost instantly. I used the styptic stick on one spot that was still bleeding. Waited about 5 minutes and rinsed my face with cold water.

Globally, it was one of the worst shave I ever had. The final result was not as good as what I get with cartridge razor and took 25 minutes more.

Very far from love at first sight, but I will still keep using this safety razor so I get my technique better. I am not sure how fast I will become doing a full shave and how close of a shave I will be achieve, because this shave was very far from BBS and took 6 times longer than what I am used to.
Well... firstly, stay on that setting 1 for ALL your passes, keep it mild.

Also, the proper order (given you have mapped your beard correctly) is WTG, XTG, then ATG and not vice-versa. So, stick to it.

And when folks here say no pressure, it literally means NO pressure. It's not like "less pressure" or "just a tiny bit of pressure" or "third the pressure you used with cartridges". It means do NOT apply ANY pressure. Period. End of story. Let the razor weight do the job.

That said, there's nothing wrong with long GENTLE strokes. The short buffing strokes actually do more damage combined with excessive pressure, than smooth gliding long ones. Try holding the razor with only two fingers. It can do "wonders".

If I were you, I'd skip going XTG and ATG on your lower neck for the time being. You've roughed it up pretty bad obviously, so give it a week or so to heal. Don't use cartridges on it, the skin needs time to properly heal. Actually, skip sheaving your lower neck for at least couple of days altogether, then only go gently WTG.

No wonder it wasn't love at first sight, huh 😂.
It amazes me how people neglect to follow what has been proven to work by millions of wet-shavers only to end up all cut and bruised wondering "whatta hell happened". I'm not picking on you, just sayin' as we see this time and again.

Follow the rules, do not experiment until you get the basics right. It's really that simple. You'll get there eventually!! Keep it up 😀

And watch this one by all means

 
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Also, the proper order (given you have mapped your beard correctly) is WTG, XTG, then ATG and not vice-versa. So, stick to it.

It amazes me how people neglect to follow what has been proven to work by millions of wet-shavers only to end up all cut and bruised wondering "whatta hell happened".
I think I have seen a bit too many video reviews and tutorials(including the one you just shared). Each one of them do something a little bit different including the order in which the pass are done as some of them goes WTG, ATG and then XTG.

I will do what you recommend going WTG, XTG and ATG, but like you said I will wait until next monday to do my neck region.

And when folks here say no pressure, it literally means NO pressure. It's not like "less pressure" or "just a tiny bit of pressure" or "third the pressure you used with cartridges". It means do NOT apply ANY pressure. Period. End of story. Let the razor weight do the job.
I really tried my best to put no pressure and think I did a pretty good job when going WTG. How do you put no pressure when doing an ATG or XTG pass? Do you tilt your head? I have not seen any youtubers do that, but they all say to put no pressure. I always wondered how you can do it moving your razor from down to up using only the razor's weight as pressure. If you have any additional advice, I would gladly take it?

I plan on doing another shave tonight and will make only a 2 passes shave with only one on my neck region. It will be my second shave with the Astra SS blade and plan to flip it before the shave and trash it after. On monday, should I try the Dorco Prime blade or should I stick with the Astra SS until I get better at shaving?
 
A milder blade will help if you're having a problem with cuts. Astra SP are a little bit milder than the Astra SS.

Better still, Derby Extra are milder than both. This is (probably) the best blade for your first few shaves (unless you've got very thick facial hair).

For the moment, don't even think about XTG or ATG. First task is to get a comfortable WTG shave with no cuts.

Try "riding the cap" to find a good shaving angle. Put the smooth cap on your skin with the handle perpendicular to your face then gradually lower the handle until you can *just* feel the blade starting to shave your hair. Too large an angle can increase the chance of cutting your skin.

Stick at it. After a couple of weeks you should be getting a comfortable shave.
 
A milder blade will help if you're having a problem with cuts. Astra SP are a little bit milder than the Astra SS.

Better still, Derby Extra are milder than both. This is (probably) the best blade for your first few shaves (unless you've got very thick facial hair).

For the moment, don't even think about XTG or ATG. First task is to get a comfortable WTG shave with no cuts.

Try "riding the cap" to find a good shaving angle. Put the smooth cap on your skin with the handle perpendicular to your face then gradually lower the handle until you can *just* feel the blade starting to shave your hair. Too large an angle can increase the chance of cutting your skin.

Stick at it. After a couple of weeks you should be getting a comfortable shave.
Thanks, I will try only doing a pass WTG for now.

I looked at my Amazon order and even if it was Prime, the delivery date got pushed to OCT 22, so I only have the Astra SS, the Dorco Prime platinum and the Ming Shi blades on hand.

I was thinking of trying the Dorco prime next as I read some good comments on it.
 
I really tried my best to put no pressure and think I did a pretty good job when going WTG. How do you put no pressure when doing an ATG or XTG pass? Do you tilt your head? I have not seen any youtubers do that, but they all say to put no pressure. I always wondered how you can do it moving your razor from down to up using only the razor's weight as pressure. If you have any additional advice, I would gladly take it?

I plan on doing another shave tonight and will make only a 2 passes shave with only one on my neck region. It will be my second shave with the Astra SS blade and plan to flip it before the shave and trash it after. On monday, should I try the Dorco Prime blade or should I stick with the Astra SS until I get better at shaving?
I'd simply give it a few days b4 doing any shave. Weekend is coming, you really don't NEED to shave. Trust me, your face will thank you for allowing it time to heal for a 2-3 days w/o shaving, following the "accident" you suffered.

Now, as for YT videos, pls always bear in mind that these people are mostly experienced wet-shavers. I like Brian's video, as he really makes it a no-nonsense, easy to understand.

To answer your Q - I do tilt my head and I do stretch my skin even when I shave with a DE (I mostly shave with SRs). It helps, as it flattens the area you're shaving.

That being said and I don't mean to discourage you or anything - as Brian says - a single pass WTG is probably more than enough for everyday shave. You can add an XTG pass, but ask yourself do you really need an ATG. Is it a "must". ATG pass is the surefire way for irritation if you do ANYTHING short of perfect. I'm not saying don't do it. I do it on every single shave, but you really, REALLY need to be careful and pay attention, until you get a feel for it.

Your other Q - using the razors weight when going up, that is ATG - obviously is different than letting it slide down on its own when going WTG. What I find to be extremely helpful is tilting the head sideways and holding the razor with your thumb and index finger only, to gently lift it up over your cheek. That amount of pressure is smth. you should never exceed, ever.

Hope it helps! 😀
 
Astra Green's were my first blade, not a bad blade to start, but sharp and if used incorrectly will leave you wondering.

Gillette makes a very forgiving blade that works great, sharp, smooth and easy to learn, I use Gillette's alot, I really like the 7'oclock the Nacet and then then Platinums.

Another great blade is the Wilkinson Sword, I have a few packs of them, and I really enjoy those as well, the best thing to remember about blades is that everyone likes something different, and what works great for one person, is another person's worst nightmare. Some guys here swear by Sharks...........I think they are trash. Just my opinion from trying to figure them out.

Glad to hear you are asking questions though.
 
Simply start with mild and increase to more agressive. So from a 7 o clock green to a feather.

alternative start with a gillette silver blue and go either down or up from that point
 
You are right, I don't really need to shave today, I just wanted to get the hang of it faster and get better. 😌
As for the single pass, it's really hard for me that is used to always do 3 passes with my cartridge razor to get a super close shave. As I wrote earlier, I usually shave only twice a week, more often than not Sunday night and Wednesday morning.
After I did only one pass WTG, my beard looked like a one day growth, meaning that if I don't want to look neglected at my job, I should shave every single day.
Still, for the time being, I will try keep shaving at 3 days intervals until I get better and can perform XTG and ATG passes.
Thanks for all your advice, I will try to use all of them... except the one to buy a $274 razor 😜
 
About your question on pressure. Apply the least amount of pressure possible and still cut the whiskers. Everyone says no pressure, even I said that, but it is a reminder for me to only use light pressure what would amount to the weight of the razor. Do not apply the amount of pressure you did with your cartridge razor. I remember having to push or apply a lot of pressure to the razor to get it to cut. That is because the blades are not as exposed as these single blade razors are.

When I used cartridges/disposables I never did more the one pass and that was WTG. When I started using DE razors I did a WTG and then a XTG and settled for that but only for a few shaves and then went ATG and I paid for it for a few days. I don't remember now if I drew blood but I remember I had irritation that lasted a day or two. I went back to two passes and if I did a third I did a XTG pass in the other direction. After a few months of shaving(I shaved then every 2-3 days) that way I then started working into an ATG pass by angling into it from an XTG pass each shave until I was full ATG pass, that took a number of shaves.

The blade thing. If the blade doesn't feel smooth or you are not getting a smooth shave try a different blade. Just pick one, there is no order of sharpness to me. A real sharp blade to one is dull to another. When it comes to blades YMMV. Examples for me are Voskhod, a lot of shavers hear love them, I though they were dull. Personna Red are another loved blade to many here, I thought the blade had cat claws imbedded in it, it literally felt like it was scratching my skin like it had teeth or claws. I tried about two dozen different blades before finding the 3 I have. I even tried a few more after finding these 3 and I come to the conclusion I found the ones I liked and no need to try any more.

The soap you are using is it providing you with the glide, slickness or performance(whatever you wish to call it) you like? If not find another soap, it does make a difference when it comes to the combination of everything being used. In the beginning I had a few soaps and made the mistake of changing soaps and changing blades. Another soap tip is load extra, I load up like I stole it. I had started thinking why waste it an would end up with mediocre lathers, including some that would start to vanish before finishing the shave. I adopted the "load it like I stole it" method(something I come up with) and have had great, thicker lathers since.

Hopefully this helps.
 
I am back to give you an update on my wet shaving journey.

I had to shave Sunday night which was 4 days after my first experience.

I did a second shave using the same Astra SS blade, the Omega soap and brush and shaved under the same condition as the first time. While it was far from a close shave, I got almost no redness. I did only a second pass around my mouth, under my nose and on my chin.

The Osma alum bloc still gave me some stings, but nothing like on the first shave.


Yesterday I made my third shave, but I think I did a mistake by changing more than one variable in my shave routine.:(
I used the Dorco Prime blade, I used Nivea Shaving Cream in tube and Nivea After shave balm.

Overall the shave experience was way better as I was able to make a second pass with no irritation on my cheek, around my mouth, on my chin and my jaw line.

When I finished, I noticed the razor was set between 2 and 3 instead of 1.:oops:

The end result is far from BBS, but passable and way better the two first shaves.

Now, I don’t know if this experience is better because my technic got better, because of the blade, because of the razor setting or the shave cream.:confused:

The only thing I can say for sure is that the Nivea cream smells fantastic. 👌 I have seen great comments on that cream, but can safely say that $3 CAD for 100ml of this stuff is a steal as with an almond size I was easily able to make lather for 3 passes and touch ups as my brush was still full after I finished my second pass.
 
The razor you have can be the big variable. I purchased one at a great price but like in life, you get what you pay for. Lots of great recommendations her for you on the blades but as was stated before. The way you re attach the top of the razor must only go the same direction. It will snap in backwards but the alignment will be incorrect as one side of the blade will be more aggressive than the other. The other thing to watch is the shaving near the nose. This razor has a giant head on it so it is more difficult to get into those tiny places and it is a blind pass because the blade is not at the top of the head. This will require some time to become an expert at your new razor but try to avoid too many touch up passes on the upper lip and under your ears. This will cause some irritation if you chop at it to much trying to get in their tight.


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The razor you have can be the big variable. I purchased one at a great price but like in life, you get what you pay for.
This I can't disagree, but I actually payed nothing for the razor as they didn't ship the right one. But some people seamed to enjoy the shave they got using this exact model, since I have it, I said to myself, why not try it.
The way you re attach the top of the razor must only go the same direction. It will snap in backwards but the alignment will be incorrect as one side of the blade will be more aggressive than the other.
I am not quite sure I understand what you mean.
You know this razor is a TTO butterfly type?
The other thing to watch is the shaving near the nose. This razor has a giant head on it so it is more difficult to get into those tiny places and it is a blind pass because the blade is not at the top of the head.
Curriously, it doesn't seems to be a problem, but I felt a little bit too comfortable the second time I used the Dorco Prime blade and nicked myself just above the lip, but it was totally my fault as I didn't stretch my lips enough and passed too quickly.
This will require some time to become an expert at your new razor
It's very hard not be be able to shave and get better at it. It's one of the few thing that you need to wait to practice.

I feel like I need to leard how to ride a bike and after you I did 1 turn around the house, I can't ride it before 3 days.
3 days later, when I try again, I do 2 turns the house and I am told that I shouldn't ride the bike before 4 days and I should only ride it in the backyard.
 
This I can't disagree, but I actually payed nothing for the razor as they didn't ship the right one. But some people seamed to enjoy the shave they got using this exact model, since I have it, I said to myself, why not try it.

I am not quite sure I understand what you mean.
You know this razor is a TTO butterfly type?

Curriously, it doesn't seems to be a problem, but I felt a little bit too comfortable the second time I used the Dorco Prime blade and nicked myself just above the lip, but it was totally my fault as I didn't stretch my lips enough and passed too quickly.

It's very hard not be be able to shave and get better at it. It's one of the few thing that you need to wait to practice.

I feel like I need to leard how to ride a bike and after you I did 1 turn around the house, I can't ride it before 3 days.
3 days later, when I try again, I do 2 turns the house and I am told that I shouldn't ride the bike before 4 days and I should only ride it in the backyard.

Patience young one patience [emoji23]


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