SE razor "play"

[Blorvak]

So, I lucked into a steal on a shovelhead 1924 Ever-Ready from one of those auction sites, and am gearing up for a trial run.

I cleaned it out thoroughly, and inserted a blade acquired at Rite Aid.

My question: is the blade supposed to move about when loaded? I added a blade, and if I shake the razor, can hear it move. I thought the blade would be held firmly in place, but it appears to have 1mm of play when tilted up or down.

Is this a really bad sign?

 

[JDTTO]

I do not have experience with this type of razor but I think in any razor, the blade should be seated tightly.

One of the advantages of SE razors is the stiffer blade. If it has free play then that advantage is gone.

 

[chilliman64]

I don't believe the blade should move around in any razor. I don't have a shovelhead but I do have several SE's - all have immovable blades once fitted correctly.

 

[Mick]

The 1924 head should be hinged at the front and have a spring clasp at the rear that holds the blade cap solid against the base plate.

Check that to make sure that the clip is grasping the lower part of the head.

 

[Blorvak]

I don't believe the blade should move around in any razor. I don't have a shovelhead but I do have several SE's - all have immovable blades once fitted correctly.

I'm out the door and have a full plate today, so I can't get pics right away. But here's another description: When the blade is in the razor, I can use my fingernail to nudge the blade about 1mm either up and down, or side to side. If I were to try and shave with it, the blade would certainly slide before cutting.

I checked the clasp on the back, and it's fully engaged. Tried reseating like 10 times. I think this razor is mechanically unsound. Dang!

 

[morseman]

When i use the old shovelhead the blade is tight and does not move at all,maybe try a little bit of tape on the spline of the blade to give it a little bit extra grip and check that the blade stops are ok.

just my 2p

 

[Zagnut]

The first time I bought SE blades, I could do this in my 1912. These, however, were cheapie paint-scraper blades. When I got some GEM stainless or CVS carbons, they were fixed-in to the head pretty securely.

 

[retturn2blades]

Clip spring sounds dicey. First place to look as Turtle suggests.

No, no blade "play" is acceptable.

 

[themba]

If you open the razor to insert the blade, the top of the head that hinges open has a curved spring underneath the top of it. This is what keeps modern SE blades in place against the blade stops. With older blades the little hooks at each side of the base plate of the head also held the blade in addition to the spring. Modern SE blades have notches so these hooks do little.

These razors were originally designed for blades that were much thicker, had a thicker spine, and did not have notches cut into the sides like modern SE blades. If the spine of the blades you are using does not press against this spring then the blade will move around. You might need to adjust the spring a little to provide more tension. Not to much or the blade will not fit under the spring.

 

[Blorvak]

Okay, I've learned that taking pics of a blade edge is difficult with an iPhone.

But, I think I've located the curved spring. Here's a pic:



So, bending out the wings on the spring should grip today's thinner blades better?

 

[razorx]

Yes,you can GENTLY bend each end of the sping forward a bit and that should fix the problem.Very Important:Use a finger tip to keep some pressure on the central part of the spring between the 2 "rivets" while you're adjusting the sides to prevent ripping the entire spring away.

The spring will put forward pressure on the spine of the single edge blade and cause the edge of the blade to seat firmly against the blade stops so it's set securely.

Doesn't take much pressure to tweak the springs forward a little,you could almost get away with using a Q-Tip

 

[Zagnut]

Before you go actually altering your razor, please check which blade you have. Some are different sizes.

The razor on the left is an unknown-brand (possibly Dorco or TopCare) paint-scraper blade. The one on the right is a CVS branded carbon-steel blade.
Please observe that the paint-scraper is about a millimeter shorter in height. When I installed the paint-scraper in my 1912 (I didn't know, I was new to SEs then.) It rocked back and forth in the razor. I thought the razor itself was the problem. It was the blade. The CVS blade and the stainless ones labelled 'GEM' fit and work perfectly.

I don't know what the Rite-Aid blades are, but they might be too small.

 

[Blorvak]

Okay, I took some needle-nose pliers and gave the wings a very gentle tug. The blade seats better, but I can still nudge it from side to side. I think I'll apply some more pressure, and see where it gets me.

 

[Blorvak]

As for blade size, the side of the dispenser for the blades says American Safety Razor Co, which I assume is good?