Please help me to make a ranked list of mild to aggressive safety razors that you have used

[Shoegazer]

I am getting bitten by the shaving bug (oh, my!) and would now like to add to my stable.

I recently bought a Gillette Slim (K2--it could have been a HS grad present!) and have started off using it at setting "3". This is perhaps the mildest shave I've ever had, and by this I mean that so far it has been impossible to cut, nick, scrape, or scratch myself anywhere, but a 3-4 day beard requires multiple passe--as much as 4 in some spots.

While I like, somewhat, the safety of it, it's a lot of work unless I shave every day. I'm looking for more "efficiency"--a term I've read here, and it seems somewhat linked to aggressiveness.

Next shave I plan to dial up to 7 and see how this is. I think that after a few times I'll find an optimum. But being retired I'll likely shave anywhere from every other day, to every 4th day, and that's pretty tough with the Gillette so far, just as it was with the old Atra 2 it replaced. I now believe that perhaps I'll need a more aggressive razor for this infrequent shaving, and I'd like your help on this, please.

1) Am I correct in thinking that aggressiveness and efficiency are somewhat related--that if I want to shave my 3 day stubble relatively quickly, I'll need a more aggressive setting on my Gillette, or if I get another razor, one that's widely considered to be more aggressive?

2) If #1 is true, could you create a short list of razors that demonstrate the range between notably mild to notably aggressive?

3) If #1 true, could you name your favorite aggressive razor that you've used, personally?

Any information here is welcomed a great deal!

Thanks!

 

[spacemonkey42]

Check out this list, and the comparisons with other razors below the scale

RazoRock Razor Scale - The Bottom is the Mildest and The Top is the Mo – ItalianBarber

If you are looking for placement on the scale for the new RazoRock Superslant razors, please see below:L1, L1+, L1++, L1++OC - MILD-MEDIUM(L1 being the ...

www.italianbarber.com

 

[TOVT]

Have you tried different blades on the more aggressive settings?
Personna Platinum
Presonna Prep
Permasharp

 

[Shoegazer]

Have you tried different blades on the more aggressive settings?
Personna Platinum
Presonna Prep
Permasharp

I'll eventually do that, but what I'm immediately after is a better understanding of aggression/efficiency/mildness, and some recommendations.

 

[Guido75]

Am I correct in thinking that aggressiveness and efficiency are somewhat related

Yes and no. I usually shave with more aggressive (I like to call that effective) razors, but for most I still need three passes to get to DFS/BBS levels.

I rarely achieve that in two passes. If I do achieve DFS in about two passes I tend to use more aggressive razors yes. I need 4 passes with my mildest razor.

However those same three passes get me DFS or BBS with a Gillette Tech as well - which is seen as a mild razor, but I believe it is very effective nonetheless.

Your Slim is a fantastic shaver, because it can achieve both in one razor - as you increase the number not only the gap increases, but so does the exposure (at least to my understanding, but you can find more information here).

I’ll list some easily available razors. I have more aggressive ones, but these are harder to come by. I think my most aggressive razor is the R41, but it is also very efficient. Second I would guess the Greencult 1.0 (unobtainable right now, but similar to the Greencult 2.0 level IV). But don’t rule out a Gillette Old Type for that matter. I also get really good results with my Fatip open comb. And in terms of adjustable the Gillette Super Adjustable (successor of the Slim) is the most aggressive adjustable by Gillette).

And blades make a huge difference obviously. Which are you using now if I may ask?

Cheers,

Guido

 

[Alum Ladd]

I'll eventually do that, but what I'm immediately after is a better understanding of aggression/efficiency/mildness, and some recommendations.

This is one of the best definitions I have come across
Lets praise mild razors - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/lets-praise-mild-razors.638562/page-2#post-12205760

An excellent thread which will probably answer most of your queries. Reading it in it's entirity will really give you a compass I suggest.

Also this, with contributions by some of the most experienced Brothers on B&B.
I'm curious - how do you personally measure razor efficiency? - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/im-curious-how-do-you-personally-measure-razor-efficiency.625279/

Again, I suggest you read the whole thread. A lot of homework for you there!

Oh and here is the B&B Blade Gap Comparison Chart. Raw data on a host of razors, mostly vintage or classic in terms of blade gaps. Some info seems to be disputed on it, but it gives you an idea of your Slims gaps on various settings.
Double-Edged Safety Razors Ranked by Blade Gap - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Blade_Gap

 

[Shoegazer]

This is one of the best definitions I have come across
Lets praise mild razors - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/lets-praise-mild-razors.638562/page-2#post-12205760

An excellent thread which will probably answer most of your queries. Reading it in it's entirity will really give you a compass I suggest.

Also this, with contributions by some of the most experienced Brothers on B&B.
I'm curious - how do you personally measure razor efficiency? - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/im-curious-how-do-you-personally-measure-razor-efficiency.625279/

Again, I suggest you read the whole thread. A lot of homework for you there!

Oh and here is the B&B Blade Gap Comparison Chart. Raw data on a host of razors, mostly vintage or classic in terms of blade gaps. Some info seems to be disputed on it, but it gives you an idea of your Slims gaps on various settings.
Double-Edged Safety Razors Ranked by Blade Gap - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Blade_Gap

Thanks very much!

 

[silverlifter]

Open your Slim up to 9 and put a Kai blade in it. Once you've tried that, you'll know whether you do actually need a more aggressive razor.

 

[Shoegazer]

Yes and no. I usually shave with more aggressive (I like to call that effective) razors, but for most I still need three passes to get to DFS/BBS levels.

I rarely achieve that in two passes. If I do achieve DFS in about two passes I tend to use more aggressive razors yes. I need 4 passes with my mildest razor.

However those same three passes get me DFS or BBS with a Gillette Tech as well - which is seen as a mild razor, but I believe it is very effective nonetheless.

Your Slim is a fantastic shaver, because it can achieve both in one razor - as you increase the number not only the gap increases, but so does the exposure (at least to my understanding, but you can find more information here).

I’ll list some easily available razors. I have more aggressive ones, but these are harder to come by. I think my most aggressive razor is the R41, but it is also very efficient. Second I would guess the Greencult 1.0 (unobtainable right now, but similar to the Greencult 2.0 level IV). But don’t rule out a Gillette Old Type for that matter. I also get really good results with my Fatip open comb. And in terms of adjustable the Gillette Super Adjustable (successor of the Slim) is the most aggressive adjustable by Gillette).

And blades make a huge difference obviously. Which are you using now if I may ask?

Cheers,

Guido

The Van der Hagen blades that came with the starter that I bought about 1 month ago.

I want to characterize my razors with the same type of blade. Once I settle on the *relative* characteristics at various settings, I'll start going thru my assort pack, which contains:

• Astra Superior Platinum
• Bic Chrome Platinum
• Dėrby Extra
• Dorco St301 Stainless
• Feather New HiStainless
• GiIIette Platinum
• GiIIette Silver Blue
• Merkur Super Platinum
• Personna Platinum
• Bolzano Super Inox
• Shark Super Stainless
• SuperMax Super Stainless
• Treet Platinum
• Voskhod Teflon Coated
• WiIkinson Sword (Germany).

 

[Shoegazer]

Open your Slim up to 9 and put a Kai blade in it. Once you've tried that, you'll know whether you do actually need a more aggressive razor.

Oh, sure. Eventually...

But I WANT another razor too, you see...

I thought that this site was dedicated to conspicuous consumption... :^)

 

[wonderfulpantsuit]

The Fatip Grande changed my whole understanding of razor aggression.

Very little blade gap, almost no blade feel, yet it's considerably more efficient than any other razor I own. A single pass with some touch ups, with good technique, can get me a legitimately great shave. Two passes for consistent DFS+/BBS.

I was conflating aggression with efficiency before I got my Fatip. They are quite distinct traits IMO.

 

[Shoegazer]

The Fatip Grande changed my whole understanding of razor aggression.

Very little blade gap, almost no blade feel, yet it's considerably more efficient than any other razor I own. A single pass with some touch ups, with good technique, can get me a legitimately great shave. Two passes for consistent DFS+/BBS.

I was conflating aggression with efficiency before I got my Fatip. They are quite distinct traits IMO.

How about this...

aggression = maximum potential to cut: beard or skin without differentiation
efficiency = maximum potential to cut beard without also cutting skin

Whaddaya think?

 

[silverlifter]

Aggression is a function of the razor. Efficiency is at the mercy of the shaver.

 

[Shoegazer]

much cutting...

Oh and here is the B&B Blade Gap Comparison Chart. Raw data on a host of razors, mostly vintage or classic in terms of blade gaps. Some info seems to be disputed on it, but it gives you an idea of your Slims gaps on various settings.
Double-Edged Safety Razors Ranked by Blade Gap - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/wiki/Double-Edged_Safety_Razors_Ranked_by_Blade_Gap

This is all good stuff.

I have a question WRT the table I left intact, above. Specifically regarding Gillette adjustables.

I have also looked at this (which I found here):

Adjustable Razor Blade Gaps - Gillette Adjustable Razors

Gillette Adjustable Razor Blade Gap by Razor Type Feeler Gauges Simple Feeler gauges were used to measure "Blade Gap" on various types of "new" Gillette Adjustable razors. Important differences between types of razors were found.How will your shave differ depending on the Adjustable Razor Type...

gilletteadjustable.com

You'll note that the Gillette page implies use of a feeler gauge, but does not tell us if it is a metric or US inch gauge. My gut feeling is that it is US inch.

Because if it is not in thousandths of an inch, but millimeters, the two charts show wildly different gaps.

Do you have any feeling for this Alum?

Thanks for all your help on this forum. I am coming up to speed so quickly that you should charge for your services...

Oh course, I'll never pay, tightwad that I am, but... :^)

 

[wonderfulpantsuit]

When I think of razors ranging from mild to aggressive, I consider how they feel on my skin, how harsh they feel, how likely I am to cut myself, or to be punished for even slight errors in technique with nicks and weepers.

Efficiency is purely about how much of the beard they remove in each pass.

So ultimately I want a mild yet very efficient razor (Fatip).

A mild, somewhat less efficient razor paired with a sharp blade is also quite enjoyable to use for me (34c, Rockwell 6c).

What I really don't want is an aggressive, inefficient razor.

I don't even particularly want an aggressive and efficient razor, because the Fatip in my experience has made that combination a bit redundant.

It's all kind of just personal preference though, YMMV

 

[Alum Ladd]

You'll note that the Gillette page implies use of a feeler gauge, but does not tell us if it is a metric or US inch gauge. My gut feeling is that it is US inch.

Yes I believe it is US gauge, at the thousanth of an inch.

From my own experience, having had a lovely N-4 Slim (last quarter ever) and the 195, at setting 3 they feel about the same as a mid efficiency Tech (Techs vary wildy in gap, based on era, country of origin etc)

That is about .026" which the B&B table correlates somewhat. A setting 4 feels more like an English Flat Bottom Tech, (an interesting English version of the 1940's) which is up there with the US Pre War and Canadian Pre war. But slightly more. If there was a setting 3.4 that would match the most efficient Techs very nicely.

That's just my memory of shaves talking.

This discusses Tech gaps to help you figure THAT out. From thread Just bought my first vintage - 1940s no date super speed - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/just-bought-my-first-vintage-1940s-no-date-super-speed.630082/page-2#post-11935563https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/just-bought-my-first-vintage-1940s-no-date-super-speed.630082/page-2#post-11935563

Rosseforp said:
As @Alum Ladd says below, the English Flat Bottom Tech is completely different from all other techs. Get one.

Here is a list of my Tech's with gaps, weights, and what I paid for them.

47 English Flat Bottom Tech
Cap-12.2g Baseplate-13.2g C&P-25.6 Handle-24.9g Total-50.5g
Gap= .028" $ Gift from Cal $

67 English Tech
Cap-10.2g Baseplate-10.2g C&P-20.4 Handle-11.5g Total-32g
Gap= .026" $ PIF from Mawashi $

67 Tech M4 Mar 3, 2019
Cap-10.2g Baseplate-10.4g C&P-20.6 Handle-12.2g Total-33g
Gap= .025" $5.00

PreWar Tech Apr 13, 2019
Cap-14.5g Baseplate-10.0g C&P-24.5 Handle-23g Total-47.5g
Gap= .019" $10.49

53 Tech Y2 Mar 5, 2019
Cap-11.4g Steel Baseplate-8.4g C&P-19.8 Handle-36.3g Total-56.2g
Gap= .021" $19.50

No Date (46-50) Tech
Cap-11.2g Baseplate-10.8g C&P-22.0 Handle-34.6g Total-56.5g
Gap= .024" $ PIF from Mawashi $

English Tech (Early)
Cap-14.5g Baseplate-10.8g C&P-25.3 Handle-37.0g Total-62.3g
Gap= .028" $ PIF from Mawashi $

~doug~

To sum up, I would go with the B&B chart, with all its possible minor flaws.

 

[Shoegazer]

Yes I believe it is US gauge, at the thousanth of an inch.

From my own experience, having had a lovely N-4 Slim (last quarter ever) and the 195, at setting 3 they feel about the same as a mid efficiency Tech (Techs vary wildy in gap, based on era, country of origin etc)

That is about .026" which the B&B table correlates somewhat. A setting 4 feels more like an English Flat Bottom Tech, (an interesting English version of the 1940's) which is up there with the US Pre War and Canadian Pre war. But slightly more. If there was a setting 3.4 that would match the most efficient Techs very nicely.

That's just my memory of shaves talking.

This discusses Tech gaps to help you figure THAT out. From thread Just bought my first vintage - 1940s no date super speed - https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/just-bought-my-first-vintage-1940s-no-date-super-speed.630082/page-2#post-11935563https://www.badgerandblade.com/forum/threads/just-bought-my-first-vintage-1940s-no-date-super-speed.630082/page-2#post-11935563

Rosseforp said:
As @Alum Ladd says below, the English Flat Bottom Tech is completely different from all other techs. Get one.

Here is a list of my Tech's with gaps, weights, and what I paid for them.

47 English Flat Bottom Tech
Cap-12.2g Baseplate-13.2g C&P-25.6 Handle-24.9g Total-50.5g
Gap= .028" $ Gift from Cal $

67 English Tech
Cap-10.2g Baseplate-10.2g C&P-20.4 Handle-11.5g Total-32g
Gap= .026" $ PIF from Mawashi $

67 Tech M4 Mar 3, 2019
Cap-10.2g Baseplate-10.4g C&P-20.6 Handle-12.2g Total-33g
Gap= .025" $5.00

PreWar Tech Apr 13, 2019
Cap-14.5g Baseplate-10.0g C&P-24.5 Handle-23g Total-47.5g
Gap= .019" $10.49

53 Tech Y2 Mar 5, 2019
Cap-11.4g Steel Baseplate-8.4g C&P-19.8 Handle-36.3g Total-56.2g
Gap= .021" $19.50

No Date (46-50) Tech
Cap-11.2g Baseplate-10.8g C&P-22.0 Handle-34.6g Total-56.5g
Gap= .024" $ PIF from Mawashi $

English Tech (Early)
Cap-14.5g Baseplate-10.8g C&P-25.3 Handle-37.0g Total-62.3g
Gap= .028" $ PIF from Mawashi $

~doug~

To sum up, I would go with the B&B chart, with all its possible minor flaws.

Thanks a million, Alum!!

 

[Shoegazer]

When I think of razors ranging from mild to aggressive, I consider how they feel on my skin, how harsh they feel, how likely I am to cut myself, or to be punished for even slight errors in technique with nicks and weepers.

Efficiency is purely about how much of the beard they remove in each pass.

So ultimately I want a mild yet very efficient razor (Fatip).

A mild, somewhat less efficient razor paired with a sharp blade is also quite enjoyable to use for me (34c, Rockwell 6c).

What I really don't want is an aggressive, inefficient razor.

I don't even particularly want an aggressive and efficient razor, because the Fatip in my experience has made that combination a bit redundant.

It's all kind of just personal preference though, YMMV

Thanks!

 

[romsitsa]

On the top of the “food chain” are devettes (no comb/bar) close second is the LeCoq with a safety bar. These require streching the skin like with a straight.

 

[JimL911]

I like blade feel. A straight being a 10
9++++ Gamechanger with guard cut off
9+++ Stirling HA
9++ Ikon tech/tek, Charcoal goods lvl3 OC 1st gen, R41
8 Mk1 Fatip, Slim on 9
7-8 Blackbird, Dart, Rocca
6+ GC 84 Jaws, Old Type
6 ATT H2, Timeless 95 OC, Karve F OC, New
5 ATT aluminum, GC 84, Lupo 95 OC,
4 89, Parker 24C, Super Speed
3 Tech