Over Under Sideways Down - an eternal newbie's journal

[Habemik]

Tabactober (5) - back to the Merkur 45C

Growth: one day's worth
Passes: 2 (both WTG) + touchups

Preshave: Barbacco, preceded and followed by a hot water wash
Razor: Merkur 45C (5)
Blade: Feather (2)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Merkur 45C has seniority over all the other razors in my current rotation. Oddly enough, shaving with it means overcoming habits burned into muscle memory, some of which I didn't know I even had. Here are some observations from today's shave.

• Angle. It's quite different from my other razors, so there's extra attention needed when going XTG. This will become a non-issue when reacquainted with it.
• Light touch. With short and fast strokes, there's no good reason to add pressure. It works fine with a very light touch.
• Less work. I wasn't quite satisfied with my jaw area after the second pass, so I added in a decent amount of buffing. I'll try to keep the amount of work down until I get the hang of it.

Post-shave irritation was concentrated at the spots that got the most attention. The two-pass areas, on the other hand, revealed almost none when applying alum.

Finishing touch: Old Spice in edt concentration.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (6) - Presto - Astra SP combo

Growth: three days' worth
Passes: 2 (both WTG) + touchups

Preshave: Barbacco, preceded and followed by a hot water wash
Razor: Presto Tallinn (4)
Blade: Astra SP (1)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Presto Tallinn + Astra SP combo has given me an outstanding shave before. This time went even better, but here are some bullet points for future reference.

• Stretching. Left whisker needs a close and firm pull before giving it a whack. There's something about that part that just invites trouble when holding the razor in the right hand. Meanwhile, the right side has no such issue.
• Stroke speed. While a Feather + heavy razor combo tolerates slow work, Astra SP + light razor tolerates it up to a point, but then pulls gently. Nothing like Gillette Rubie Platinum Plus, which tugs when even slightly slowing down, though - it's still comfortable to use at slower speeds.
• Comfort. This razor is not too far off from a point where it becomes an extension of my hand. Giving it a good angle is easy, handling it feels natural in both WTG and XTG passes, and even on that pesky neck area. Positioning fingers requires no extra attention, just grab and go.

Post-shave irritation was concentrated in the spots where I goofed up, with some questionable spots (with pre-existing issues). All other areas were irritation-free, no matter how much I dragged the alum stick back and forth.

Finishing touch: Quorum. Applied with a firm conviction that it's impossible to overdo.

Presto Tallinn and Merkur 45C have yet to be properly compared. The heads, especially the blade angle, look close to my untrained eye, but the former currently outperforms the latter. Here are some ideas why.

• Blade selection. I've got a suspicion that Astra SP works better with both of my light razors, possibly due to skill and technique used, but I've yet to make the switch in 45C and compare it.
• Technique. I tend to use excessive amount of pressure in 45C, even when actively trying to avoid it. Thus, there's more irritation and weepers left behind, some of which only show themselves after some time has passed after the shave. In Presto, however, this kind of slide towards rough work doesn't happen. One possible solution would be to approach it like a new, completely unknown razor, and go real slow with it.
• Handle. Both Qshave and Presto share a rounder, slightly thicker shape than the 45C. The latter, with its fluted shape, doesn't feel as stable when picking it up and fiddling with finger placement. This issue might not show up when going for a shave, but I'll still mention it as a possible source of troubles.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (7) - Presto - Astra SP combo (2)

Growth: two days' worth
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + a decent amount of touchups

Preshave: Barbacco, preceded and followed by a hot water wash
Razor: Presto Tallinn (5)
Blade: Astra SP (2)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

This razor and blade combo continues to shine. The experience improves with every shave, so I might stick with it for a while. Here are today's observations.

• Both hands. I can use my right hand for the right side, and vice versa - no issues whatsoever. There's also a clear improvement in how I stretch my skin (direction + firmness) thanks to the arm going behind my head.
• Optics can be deceiving. If it's smooth, stop. I tend to go overboard with touchups, and this time was no exception. It makes more sense just to stop after getting the two passes and a small amount of extra work - no point in going over the point of diminishing returns. The irritation is just not worth it.
• Slow and steady. My strokes were slower than usual, but I was also able to dial down the pressure. I feel there's a hint here to why I tend to get much more irritation with my 45C: when I go slow, it feels like silk. When I go fast, it doesn't warn me during the shave, but the amount of redness post-shave is astonishing.

Post-shave irritation was fleeting but firmly based on areas with a good amount of touchups tacked on.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (8) - Presto - Astra SP combo (3) - again with the coffee jitters

Growth: three days' worth
Passes: 2 (WTG + some XTG) + minor touchups

Preshave: Barbacco, preceded and followed by a hot water wash
Razor: Presto Tallinn (6)
Blade: Astra SP (3)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Here are some observations from today's shave.

• No coffee before shaving. I'm making it an ironclad rule.
• Astra SP's performance. Some blades start leaving behind more irritation, some just feel dull and make you put in more work. And some, like Astra, are in the 3rd camp, where you get weepers in unexpected places. I did get multiple small superficial spots of bleeding from a single stroke, but I can't generalize off it due to the shave being substandard.
• Slow and steady again. It feels like I'm trading the longevity of the blade for slow strokes, which come with less unintentional pressure added.

Post-shave irritation was just a bit higher than with an ordinary 2-pass shave, but nothing terrible.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (9) - Presto - Astra SP combo

Growth: one day's worth
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + extra XTG pass on goatee area.

Preshave: Arko, preceded and followed by a hot water wash
Razor: Presto Tallinn (7)
Blade: Astra SP (1)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

This was a decent shave.

• Arko. I loaded it up with Marco method, but it ended up feeling both good and somehow quite different from both Tabac and Rasozero. I got it to a point where it felt airy on skin, but looked and felt dense between fingertips. It couldn't form sharp peaks in the powl, having been watered to almost runny consistency, and yet it stayed stable on my face.
• Too much work. Areas with densest growth - goatee region - got pummeled by 2 XTG passes and a decent amount of touchups. This is a bit too much, and I need to adhere to that less is more adage when going forward. On the bright side - the shave itself is one of the closest I've logged.
• Against the grain. The amount of work that goes into some of those perfection-seeking shaves is to a point where I might as well add in an ATG pass, limited to easiest areas. The time seems right to me, since I've grown accustomed to the current setup.
• Left side, below jaw: the growth feels surprisingly tough, and there's resistance. It might be a hair growth pattern, or a need to put more effort into angling and the motion itself.
• Left side, moustache: the toughness and density is about the same as with the right side, but I tend to go for an angle that doesn't work. I'll try to fight this habit by taking a couple of seconds to adjust the angle before starting.

Post-shave irritation was a notch higher than usual, but so was the amount of work put in.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (10) - R89 (6) - like a phoenix from the stashes

Growth: one day's worth - two days in a row
Passes: 2 + minimal touchups

Preshave: shower + Arko
Razor: Mühle R89 (6)
Blade: Feather (2)
Soap: Tabac
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Using Arko as a preshave was an extra step, since just showering tends to give mixed results. The delicate citrus smell, coupled with that scrubbed clean feeling is something I've only experienced with Arko. As a cheapskate, it makes me hesitate over whether to continue burning through Barbacco, or give in and follow my heart to the Turkish delight.

Mühle R89, with its aftermarket rubber bands, shows promise. It's nonslip now. Unlike with yesterday's shave, I managed to keep the amount of work to a reasonable amount, and got a smooth shave with minimal irritation.

Applying the alum much the same way one extinguishes a cheap, stinky cigar - with slight impatience, a small amount of force and vigorous movements - showed mostly the carryover from yesterday's shave. The usual trouble spots - left jaw and upper lip - did show a need to improve both the angle and the movement, but the stinging subsided quickly.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (11) - R89 (7)

Growth: one day's worth - three days in a row
Passes: 2 + minimal touchups

Preshave: hot water and Arko
Razor: Mühle R89 (7)
Blade: Feather (3)
Soap: Tabac
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

I'm getting used to this razor - as shown by improved handling on the left upper lip. Very little fuss over movement and position. The only area left to conquer is left jaw - lower side. There's either issue with how the hair grows or technique, possibly angle.

Optimal shaving frequency: I've rarely done multiple days in a row, and I'm beginning to suspect that my current upper limit is drawing near. If I hit it, I'll log it and try to balance it out with 2 pass - 1 pass - 2 pass scheme.

Higher frequency = more experience = improvement.

Post-shave irritation felt stronger than yesterday's, but nothing unexpected. I applied too much pressure at some points.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (12) - R89 (8)

Growth: one day's worth - four days in a row
Passes: 2 + minimal touchups

Preshave: hot water and Arko
Razor: Mühle R89 (8)
Blade: Feather (4)
Soap: Tabac
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

There seems to be a slight but noticeable improvement between yesterday's and today's shave: my technique is improving.

Left jaw - growth pattern. The amount of resistance encountered when going XTG feels quite close to going ATG under the chin. I have to double-check the angle and movement, to see if the issue lies there.

Post-shave irritation was one of the lowest with this razor for the amount of work put in.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (13) - R89 (9)

Growth: one day's worth - five days in a row
Passes: 2 + minimal touchups

Preshave: shower, followed by hot water and Arko
Razor: Mühle R89 (9)
Blade: Feather (3) - snagged it from 45C
Soap: Tabac
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Left upper lip is best stretched out and slightly upwards, as it aligns into a straight, leveled strip. I've found that reaching behind the head with my fingertips is the best choice so far.

Post-shave irritation reflected my shortcomings at some spots, but didn't jump too high in other areas.

 

[Habemik]

• Tabactober (14) - R89 (10)
  
  Growth: one day's worth - six days in a row
  Passes: 2 + minimal touchups
  
  Preshave: hot water and Arko treatment
  Razor: Mühle R89 (10)
  Blade: Feather (4) - binned
  Soap: Tabac
  Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
  Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Left upper lip was easier this time, but needs both careful positioning and a steady movement. It works best with the head slightly tilted - like a side of the letter A. Left jaw area continues to give sligh resistance, but there's no razor burn or other issues left behind.

Under chin/right jaw towards it isn't as easygoing. There's some razor burn left behind, and it seems that both really dislike the XTG pass. One possible reason might be insufficient stretching (too weak, wrong direction), another is hair growth direction. In retrospect, it almost always feels a bit loose, no matter how hard I stretch. Here are two possible solutions for this problem.

• Stop the XTG work a step or two before going as far as possible. This will protect the trouble spot.
• Alternatively, watch the angle and firmness of stretching, and try to push skin around with a fingertip, mimicking how a razor would move.
  
  
  Post-shave irritation was slightly higher than usual, but tolerable.

 

[Habemik]

• Tabactober (15) - R89 (11)
  
  Growth: two day's worth
  Passes: 2 + minimal touchups
  
  Preshave: hot water and Arko treatment
  Razor: Mühle R89 (11)
  Blade: Feather (1)
  Soap: Tabac
  Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
  Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Left jaw revealed a nice strip of hair aligned towards the ear, but it poses no issue if XTG goes at a slightly downwards angle.

Under the nose-both sides. Those mobile spots that I usually tame with firm grasp gave me trouble this time around. I may have to misuse the mirror for a performance close to that of an alien disguised as a human imitating emotions to figure this one out.

Other than those observations, the shave was tad rougher than usual, but I'll figure it out as I go forward.

Post-shave irritation struck exclusively on the spots I struggled with.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (16) - Merkur 45C - Astra SP combo (1)

Growth: one day's worth - second day in a row
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + touchups

Preshave: shower + face wash with Arko
Razor: Merkur 45C (6)
Blade: Astra SP (1)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Merkur 45C makes the blade somehow feel inferior performance-wise, than it was in Presto. This might be because I'm used to using it with a Feather, and thus it gets an unfair comparison, but I digress.

• Handle. The phantom of grip feeling clumsy didn't visit this time around.
• Pressure. Slowing down considerably kept most of the usual trouble spots without problems. XTG - upper lip was an exception, where I fiddled with the angle, felt too much resistance, and yet kept the speed low, out of habit.
• Under the chin doesn't agree with my 'WTG = straight down' evaluation, and gives a good amount of resistance, coupled with issues, especially when shaving multiple days in a row. Angling the razor to the left eased it, but some mapping is needed.

Post-shave irritation was of the "is this here to stay?" category at some spots, but mild in others.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (17) - YUMA + Sputnik

Growth: one day's worth - third day in a row
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + touchups

Preshave: hot water wash + Arko face-lathered
Razor: YUMA
Blade: Sputnik Teflon(1)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

YUMA has modernized and switched the cap to plastic. The screw is still metal, just like the handle, and the bottom plate is made out of stamped steel. As a proud owner of a Merkur 45C, I have no comment towards the choice of materials, but I do find the glitter-releasing feature on the handle a bit distasteful.

As for other qualities, this one aligns better and with less fiddling. The weight doesn't botter me, as I'm used to light razors, but as with any razor new to me, finding a good angle feels harder than usual. The odd feature that is first for me, is getting nicked just when you're putting the razor to the skin. The reasons are yet unknown, but I'll try and fix it.

Sputnik Teflon is a known trickster. It gives out rough first shaves, and improves considerably after that. When compared side by side with a Rubie, the 'not quite' blade, it wins in smoothness, sharpness (no tugging as a reminder to speed up), but loses in bloodshed: it bites when you least expect it. This might be more about technique and the new razor, though.

As for the shave itself, it feels pretty clean for the amount of work put in. I can give this one a real try.

Post-shave irritation was low to medium, and if counting for circumstances, quite acceptable.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (18) - YUMA + Sputnik combo (2)

Growth: one day's worth - fourth day in a row
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + an extra pass on jaw and goatee area, with some slight touchups

Preshave: shower + Arko face-lathered
Razor: YUMA (2)
Blade: Sputnik Teflon(2)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Yuma is not only a razor that gives off shiny glitter, it also has an unique feature I've yet to see on any other DE. The sharp corner on the bottom plate will poke you, in case you slack off or fall asleep while shaving. They don't call 'em 'safety razors' for nothing, I guess.

As for shaving, it's right up my alley. Equipped with a Sputnik blade, it's both smooth as butter and efficient - the second XTG pass revealed mostly nothing, with only the toughest, most resistant spots showing any cutting action. It made me brave enough to try new angles (under the chin, left jaw) and polish a tough, unrelenting spot under the left side of my lips. I mostly got away scot-free, receiving irritation only in places where I knew I should've done better.

A decade ago when I was just starting out, Sputnik used to be a bargain-bin blade, with tucks commanding half the price of Gillette Rubie, or even less. I remember trying it out, being disappointed by the first shave, and even corking it on a piece of styrofoam. In the end, other options won out and I didn't use one for years.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (19) - YUMA + Sputnik combo (3)

Growth: one day's worth - fifth day in a row
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + slight touchups

Preshave: hot water + Arko face-lathered
Razor: YUMA (3)
Blade: Sputnik Teflon(3)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Yuma continues to perform in the same manner as before, excluding the getting poked part: it maneuvers well, feels forgiving and gets the job done as well or even better than my other razors do.

I'll try to get 10 shaves in a row with it: it's a nice even number that I believe will suffice to get a grip on the razor and its features.

Sputnik has become sharper and smoother than before. I'm a little bit excited about how many shaves I could squeeze out this one, and a little bit nostalgic, because they've become unavailable in brick and mortar stores.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (20) - YUMA + Sputnik combo (4)

Growth: one day's worth - fifth day in a row
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + slight touchups

Preshave: shower + Arko face-lathered
Razor: YUMA (4)
Blade: Sputnik Teflon(4)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Yuma has started shedding its coating from the point where the cap pushes down on the blade. It doesn't bother me, because it'll allow me to see how it's put together without dismantling it, but calling it a feature would be going too far.

Sputnik seems to have declined slightly, but I'm not ready to throw in the towel just yet.

Under the chin has been a problem-prone spot fof me. This time, it took a WTG pass without issue, and XTG (right to left, angled slightly down), with weak resistance.

Jaw - left side: at the mid-part, the hair growing at an angle can be cut with angling the razor towards back. The mid-to-chin part seems to have both a slightly more mobile skin (needs a good stretch towards up and back) and an unknown growth pattern. I'll have to fix both the angle and the direction.

 

[Habemik]

Tabactober (21) - YUMA + Sputnik combo (5)

Growth: one day's worth - seventh day in a row (messed up the count)
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + slight touchups

Preshave: hot water + Arko face-lathered
Razor: YUMA (5)
Blade: Sputnik Teflon(5)
Soap: Tabac (puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red) + bowl
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Yuma and Sputnik seem to get on well. The slight decline was limited to last shave, and this one shone as brightly as the third one - it's still both sharp and smooth. A vigorous rub with alum revealed even less irritation than with prior four shaves, highlighting only the right upper lip, which was on me: the strokes were too slow and long to get full benefit from the blade.

Frequency-wise, I've proven to myself that shaving multiple days in a row is good for me, improving both the skills involved and bringing down the burden placed on skin per session.

 

[Habemik]

Arko - face-lathering - YUMA + Sputnik combo (6)

Growth: one day's worth - eighth day in a row
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + slight touchups

Preshave: shower + face wash
Razor: YUMA (6)
Blade: Sputnik Teflon(6)
Soap: Arko (pressed into a puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red); face-lathering
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Arko is really easy to face-lather. Sprinkle some water on the top while brush is still soaking, and Bob's your uncle. My first stick ran out years ago and I dilly-dallied instead of promptly replacing it: there was a powerful nuisance called "international shipping" stopping me from taking action.

Face-lathering has been a mixed bag for me in the past, leaning towards negative. This time went better: although my lather ended up a tad dry for my taste (in retrospect), it didn't cause any issues. Performance-wise, it didn't lag too far behind from Tabac and alum revealed even less irritation than usual.

Therefore, I'm taking face-lathering off my list of shaving taboos. It, in itself, doesn't cause irritation.

Areas to look out for: neck, both sides. There was slight irritation at the first pass, which grew when going XTG, stopping at what I'd categorize as medium (irritation) and slight redness. Since all the other areas were as good or better than usual, I'd say the fault lies with angle and/or stretching (direction/firmness).

 

[Habemik]

Arko + face-lathering (2); YUMA + Sputnik combo (7)

Growth: one day's worth - ninth day in a row
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + slight touchups

Preshave: shower + face wash
Razor: YUMA (7)
Blade: Sputnik Teflon(7)
Soap: Arko (pressed into a puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red); face-lathering
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Face-lathering: this time the brush got slightly more water sprinkled on it, and the resulting lather was pretty good.

Blade life. I've seen some of our guys pull an absurd number of shaves out a single blade, and I've always taken it with a grain of salt: "They're skilled and have skin of steel, what else can it be?" Anyways, I wouldn't be surprised if there's a month's worth of shaves hidden in it.

Neck, both sides: I've got to figure out what is generating irritation, especially since other areas are faring better.

 

[Habemik]

Arko + face-lathering (3); YUMA + Sputnik combo (8)

Growth: one day's worth - tenth day in a row
Passes: 2 (WTG + XTG) + slight touchups

Preshave: face wash + Arko applied
Razor: YUMA (8)
Blade: Sputnik Teflon(8)
Soap: Arko (pressed into a puck)
Brush: Omega 80265 (red); face-lathering
Post-shave: alum block + water-based moisturizer

Face-lathering: I'm going to keep going with it, but when I get to 10 or so turns, I'll pull out the bowl and do a comparison. Here are my current observations:

• Less product used. Squeezing the brush reveals that there's just enough for my shave and a little bit of extra. This ties into the next one.
• Slightly thinner layer of lather. I think it doesn't affect the shave, but it still seems unusual. It's probably a water to soap ratio thing, because I'm still getting the hang of it.
• Possible divide between soaps that are great for face-lathering, and those that are better whipped in a bowl. Arko is extremely easy to lather, while Barbacco (Italian croap) requires slightly more effort.

Neck, both sides figured out: it's probably angle taken at XTG, coupled with ineffective stretching. I was more careful this time around, and the usual spots didn't flare up.