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Oiling adjustables and TTOs

Nxspam

Nxspam

Just wondering if I should be oiling my Gillettes every couple of months or just let them be.

Do you oil? If yes, what with?

someone told me that sewing machine oil is a good choice and is acid free. Thoughts?
 
Stampede

Stampede

$DSC_0232.jpg
Here is what I use. It is a needle point oiler with a light weight machine oil. I got it from a hobby store. Easy to use, very clean and precise.
 
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Nxspam

Nxspam

Stampede said:
Here is what I use. It is a needle point oiler with a light weight machine oil. I got it from a hobby store. Easy to use, very clean and precise.
Click to expand...

Very nice. And you're the guy with the other cool stand! I like that stand, and I've just searched it on target.com, they have a lot to choose from! But, getting back to the oil discussion, is it just called machine oil? I wouldn't know what to look for, but there is a sewing machine store close by...
 
Bill R

Bill R

Just call in and ask for "sewing machine oil" they're bound to stock it. It's just a light (sometimes colourless) machine oil.
On the same subject, I wonder if WD40 would be any good? It displaces water but I don't know if it would be any good for razors or not.
 
dpm802

dpm802

Bill R said:
Just call in and ask for "sewing machine oil" they're bound to stock it. It's just a light (sometimes colourless) machine oil.
On the same subject, I wonder if WD40 would be any good? It displaces water but I don't know if it would be any good for razors or not.
Click to expand...
WD40 won't harm the razor, but I wouldn't want to shave with that particular tool. WD40's unique stench is going to overpower everything else in your shave-den. Even the sewing machine oil might leave a slight smell behind.

I've never oiled any of my razors, nor do I see the need to do so.
 
Bill R

Bill R

dpm802 said:
WD40 won't harm the razor, but I wouldn't want to shave with that particular tool. WD40's unique stench is going to overpower everything else in your shave-den. Even the sewing machine oil might leave a slight smell behind.

I've never oiled any of my razors, nor do I see the need to do so.
Click to expand...

Yes you're right! Hardly an option for a cologne is it? :blink:
 
Buzz_Kill

Buzz_Kill

I need some of this stuff too. Thanks for the info. My black handled Super Speed is a squeaker, and I would like to make sure my Black beauty doesn't become one too.
 
BBrad

BBrad

I would not recommend WD40 as a general lubricant for anything. It is designed to displace moisture and penetrate. It is basically a very lightweight mineral oil with an alcohol solvent. It is corrosive, and should not be left in contact with plated or finished surfaces. I would use it only to help break gunk out of an adjustable if the dial is frozen . . . and even then you are bound to lose the paint in the numbers as a result.

Gillette TTO razors were not lubricated at the factory, nor do they need lubrication in normal use. The clearances between parts do not require a lubricant to prevent wear or facilitate use. In fact, the clearances allow rinse water to flush the assemblies and keep them clean. If you do lubricate your razor, the first rinse in hot water will flush most of the mineral oil out of the "innards" anyway . . .

Probably the best use of mineral oil on razors is for a long soak to break down "gunk" that can cause razors (mainly adjustables) to bind. This use is not as a lubricant, but rather as a solvent that has a good capillary action to get to the deep "insides" of the assembly and help loosen the crud.

It can also be argued that introducing oil into an assembly that does not require it can lead to dirt accumulation and accelerated wear. Given the wet environs of a razor, this is not likely to be a problem. So, bottom line, lubing your razor with mineral oil causes no harm, but accomplishes practically nothing.
 
celestino

celestino

BBrad said:
I would not recommend WD40 as a general lubricant for anything. It is designed to displace moisture and penetrate. It is basically a very lightweight mineral oil with an alcohol solvent. It is corrosive, and should not be left in contact with plated or finished surfaces. I would use it only to help break gunk out of an adjustable if the dial is frozen . . . and even then you are bound to lose the paint in the numbers as a result.
Gillette TTO razors were not lubricated at the factory, nor do they need lubrication in normal use. The clearances between parts do not require a lubricant to prevent wear or facilitate use. In fact, the clearances allow rinse water to flush the assemblies and keep them clean. If you do lubricate your razor, the first rinse in hot water will flush most of the mineral oil out of the "innards" anyway . . .
Probably the best use of mineral oil on razors is for a long soak to break down "gunk" that can cause razors (mainly adjustables) to bind. This use is not as a lubricant, but rather as a solvent that has a good capillary action to get to the deep "insides" of the assembly and help loosen the crud.
It can also be argued that introducing oil into an assembly that does not require it can lead to dirt accumulation and accelerated wear. Given the wet environs of a razor, this is not likely to be a problem. So, bottom line, lubing your razor with mineral oil causes no harm, but accomplishes practically nothing.
Click to expand...

+1 You soaps residue should provide enough lubrication throughtout your shaves. This is what Gillette had originally stated from what i remember.
 
Haiku

Haiku

BBrad said:
I would not recommend WD40 as a general lubricant for anything. It is designed to displace moisture and penetrate. It is basically a very lightweight mineral oil with an alcohol solvent. It is corrosive, and should not be left in contact with plated or finished surfaces. I would use it only to help break gunk out of an adjustable if the dial is frozen . . . and even then you are bound to lose the paint in the numbers as a result.

Gillette TTO razors were not lubricated at the factory, nor do they need lubrication in normal use. The clearances between parts do not require a lubricant to prevent wear or facilitate use. In fact, the clearances allow rinse water to flush the assemblies and keep them clean. If you do lubricate your razor, the first rinse in hot water will flush most of the mineral oil out of the "innards" anyway . . .

Probably the best use of mineral oil on razors is for a long soak to break down "gunk" that can cause razors (mainly adjustables) to bind. This use is not as a lubricant, but rather as a solvent that has a good capillary action to get to the deep "insides" of the assembly and help loosen the crud.

It can also be argued that introducing oil into an assembly that does not require it can lead to dirt accumulation and accelerated wear. Given the wet environs of a razor, this is not likely to be a problem. So, bottom line, lubing your razor with mineral oil causes no harm, but accomplishes practically nothing.
Click to expand...

I could not agree more. This post should be sent out to every member on this board.

Never oil a razor unless you want to guarantee that it will fill up with gunk. Oils do not dry they get thicker and thicker and are a perfect magnet for gunk.

There is absolutely no good reason to oil a razor.

You could try WD40 to free up a frozen stuck razor. Frozen razors are generally razors that have been oiled by previous owners. Personally, I see no other reason to use WD40 on a razor. There's just no reason to.

"WD" stands for water displacement. It displaces water and then leave a thin, low viscous coating of oil. What possible use that could be inside a razor is beyond me. WD 40 also uses chemical propellants which are no doubt precisely what your doctor would want you to inhale to make sure your lungs get their proper dose of chemistry.

I don't know whether it would prove to be corrosve to razors. Razors are made of differnt types of metal including brass, zamac, nickle plating and so on. So it might depend on the razor, but I don't know. I do know that WD40 is just great to clean dirty bicycle chains. Apparently, WD40 was first used to coat stainless steel tanks used on intercontenental missiles to prevent rust and corrosion. I don't know whether the idea was to have long term protection or not. In any event, it's a truly wonderful product, but I see no reason to be spraying it into or onto my razors.

It seems that WD40 may contain Stoddard solvent. Here's what Wikipedia says about Stoddard solvent:

White spirit is mainly classed as an irritant. It has a fairly low acute toxicity by inhalation of the vapour, dermal (touching the skin) and oral routes (ingestion). However, acute exposure can lead to central nervous system depression resulting in lack of coordination and slowed reactions. Exposure to very high concentrations in enclosed spaces can lead to general narcotic effects (drowsiness, dizziness, nausea etc...) and can eventually lead to unconsciousness. Oral ingestion presents a high aspiration hazard. Prolonged or repeated skin exposure over a long period of time can result in severe irritant dermatitis, also called contact dermatitis. Exposure to large amounts of white spirit in direct contact with the skin (e.g. being soaked with 2 litres) for several hours can cause severe chemical burns.[SUP][11][/SUP] It is recommended that skin exposure be kept to a minimum by use of gloves, and that hands be washed after contact. Occasional exposure to skin is highly unlikely to cause any problems.
 
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S

santamariasteve

I agree that oiling a razor is unnecessary. It is "over the top" maintenance. If you buy a 75 year old razor I suggest there is a 98% probability it has never been oiled, and is still going strong after 75 years! The best maintence is occasional cleaning with warm soapy water and a soft old tooth brush, and never to never drop the razor.

I do see a slight benefit to occasionally put a tiny dab of waterproof grease on the threads of the handle of a 2 or 3 piece razor. One does want to preserve the threads, as when the threads are stripped or gone the razor pretty much is trash. I know of no way to fix that.
 
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Nxspam

Nxspam

Wow, Stoddard solvent sounds like nasty stuff. I do have a stuck razor, a slim. The adjuster dial is stuck on 1. Maybe wd40 would help in this case. I had considered attempting a strip down to see what's going on, but that too is not without it's problems. I have seen the guides, diagrams and YouTube clips. I guess I'll have to reconsider oiling my adjustable then. Never thought I'd come across a mechanical device that would suffer from being lubricated, but then again, what else gets covered in soap on a daily basis...
 
srm_92000

srm_92000

Here's a super I took apart today:-
This is after a two long soaks in soapy water - no help (Stiff TTO on last bit of turn).
Oiling - worked for a bit but then nearly locked again.
short run with warm water and dish soap in ultrasonic (weary of black coming off) - no help. longer run in ultrasonic - no help
near boiling water and bicarbonate of soda TWICE - no help - but cleaned the head up great:thumbup1:.
decided to go for it and dismantle, note the pile of crud that came out the handle tube.
Now back together oiled and working fine.
+1 on not using WD but a drop of light mineral oil in the tube from time to time might have stopped this one getting so corroded internally in the first place.
just my 2p's worth.:biggrin1: of course YMMV.
$super1.jpg
 
Nxspam

Nxspam

Was it difficult getting it back together? I read somewhere that getting the adjuster dial calibrated could be a problem.
 
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